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Post Info TOPIC: Is there any replacement for the screws from the front brake?


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Is there any replacement for the screws from the front brake?
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Hi, I have a Yamaha TTR250 from 2005, a Australian model. I would like replace the screws from the front brake (Nissin brake) by others without Allen head. Is it possible? the number of the piece is the 3GD-25933-00



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Nomada_Firefox wrote:

Hi, I have a Yamaha TTR250 from 2005, a Australian model. I would like replace the screws from the front brake (Nissin brake) by others without Allen head. Is it possible? the number of the piece is the 3GD-25933-00


 Hi there. 

I have never seen a caliper bolt with anything other than an Allen head. Maybe someone else has?

I have only ever had problems with the Allen bolts when a previous owner has over tightened them or they haven't had an application of copper grease and been left to rust in.

I only ever do them up hand tight and never had a problem.

Brian



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DRC sell the pads without allen but I do not know what model I needed.

http://www.drcproducts.com/body/d58-33/index.html



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Thanks for the link - well found biggrin I didn't know these hex-headed pins existed!

I have just measured a Yamaha pin. The threaded portion is 11.8mm and the plain section 46mm so it doesn't look like you will get an exact match cry

Please let us know how you get on.

Brian



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If you cut the end of an allen key and fit to drill or ratchet/breaker bar there should be no problems using an allen key head.

I seem to find that i strip hexagon bolt heads before an alley key head if this method is used....

I might add that using a drill to crack allen key bolts if there rusty-tight has never failed for me. Have stripped alot of hex-head bolts though blankstare no

Just about every bolt on my bike is an allen key bolt as it's easy and quick and i can have my bike stripped to pieces in no time at all.

It is easy to get the right amount of torque needed without over-doing it.

Another good point is not many tool are needed to fix anything so another bonus. 

Good when it comes to tools needed for going bush as all i need is an allen key set  a small flathead,small phillips,spark plug socket,small ratchet,small adjustable spanner,double sided open ender (8mm and 10mm) and i can tackle just about any job on the side of the road.

 

Also as mentioned i have never had an allen key let me down when it comes to loosening.

 

Each to there own though.

Jarrah.


 

 



-- Edited by barra8 on Wednesday 22nd of August 2012 12:14:21 PM

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Unfortunately only the back pins can be replaced because you can not use a box spanner on the front brake pins. The back pin from DRC would be the pin from the left on this image.

pv07.jpg



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Nomada_Firefox wrote:

Well probably I live on other world, all the times by default a allen screw is deteriorates before other type. I´m not speaking from the first time, my screws have 7 years.

Other point, never I have payed by one repair of my motorcicles, I have made all at my home, even paint, electric repairs and more. I want say that I did not born yesterday.;)


 Not sure why they would deteriate quicker over there confuse

Twelve-monthly rainfall totals for Queensland

 

Daily solar exposure for QueenslandDaily maximum temperature extremes graph for Queensland

 Daily maximum temperature extremes graph for Queensland

 Explorer > North East Queensland > Landscapes and Climate

 

Climate

 

Tropical and sub-tropical climate

The North East Queensland region of the tropical savannas has high rainfall summers and drier winters and lies in a tropical climatic zone with its southern extent adjacent to the sub-tropics (Bureau of Meteorology 1989). It extends inland from the coast but does not include the higher rainfall sectors of the coastline where savanna gives way to rainforest.

Floods are an occupational hazard of northern summers

Floods are an occupational hazard of northern summers
Photo: Greg Calvert

Average temperature

Hot, summer days in January reach an average temperature of 33oC to 36oC. Pockets of cooler conditions are experienced in elevated inland areas as well as along the coast. Relative humidity decreases away from the coast ranging from 30-70 per cent, which varies little from winter values. The combination of on-shore winds, humidity and lower temperatures along the coast create an average of only 50 climatic discomfort days each year but inland this increases to around 150 (Colls & Whitaker 1990).

Intertropical Convergence Zone

The Intertropical Convergence Zone (ITCZ) stretches across north-east Queensland in summer so this region's warm and moist conditions originate from both the north-west monsoons and the easterly quasi-monsoons (Tapper & Hurry 1993). Unstable conditions, with heavy cloud and intense rainfall, are associated with the ITCZ but the average cloud cover for this region in January is considerably less (Colls & Whitaker 1990) than for each of the other tropical savanna regions. Thunderstorms are more prevalent inland with an average of 60 thunder days a year with coastal areas only experiencing as few as 10 (Bureau of Meteorology 1989).

Rainfall

Rainfall is more intense in summer than winter and extensive falls can occur in association with the passage of tropical cyclones across the coast (Gentilli 1972). Annual average totals diminish from north to south and with distance from the coast and range from 1200 mm to as low as 400 mm in the south-west. Drought conditions occur more frequently inland but the whole area has a moderate to high variability in rainfall (Bureau of Meteorology 1989). During La Nina events rainfall increases across the region in an east-west direction (Partridge 1991).

Winter

The long, drier winters are dominated by warm, moist south-east trade winds, which maintain the region's relative humidity. The days are clear and sunny with temperatures decreasing from north to south and towards the coast. In July the average overnight minimum temperatures are between 9oC and 18oC (Bureau of Meteorology 1989) and in elevated areas frosts can occur (Colls& Whitaker 1990). Winter rains are sporadic in the sub-tropical region and are most likely to occur in the east (Gentilli 1972).

 

Humid subtropical climatezones of the world
Cfa
Cwa

 

 

I am my mechanic aswell whether it's cars or bikes so i have never needed one either.

They do come in handy for machine presses and that kinda thing though.

Still i can't see what is wrong with allen key bolts.

I did'nt like them in the past until i learnt a few tricks of removing tight ones so as not to strip the thread as mentioned in my last post.

If you do as i have done and bought stainless steel marine grade there will be no trouble for years to come and should outlast the bike.

But as i said before...

Each to their own.

Jarrah.

 

 



-- Edited by barra8 on Thursday 23rd of August 2012 02:26:16 PM

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Well probably I live on other world, all the times by default a allen screw is deteriorates before other type. I´m not speaking from the first time, my screws have 7 years.

Other point, never I have payed by one repair of my motorcicles, I have made all at my home, even paint, electric repairs and more. I want say that I did not born yesterday.;)



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TTRfan wrote:
Nomada_Firefox wrote:

Hi, I have a Yamaha TTR250 from 2005, a Australian model. I would like replace the screws from the front brake (Nissin brake) by others without Allen head. Is it possible? the number of the piece is the 3GD-25933-00


 Hi there. 

I have never seen a caliper bolt with anything other than an Allen head. Maybe someone else has?

I have only ever had problems with the Allen bolts when a previous owner has over tightened them or they haven't had an application of copper grease and been left to rust in.

I only ever do them up hand tight and never had a problem.

Brian


  The pins in my old Raid's front caliper were stuck fast the first time I went to change the pads. Had to weld a bolt in to what was left of the internal hex. The Allen key just rounded the hex off as it was so tight. After that, as Brian says, copper slip and finger tight that is the key to getting them out next time you need to.

They won't fall out! Mine have never moved in 9 years of daily use.

 

Peter



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Maybe you did'nt read my post  as a drill is the best way i have found of removing old bolts. Never had to weld an allen key bolt but might see the day yet.

 

Anti-seize works good as does not overtightening but regually loosening all bolts and cleaning or replacing helps aswell

If using marine grade stainless steel you will never have any troubles again as mentioned already.



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YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!

TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!

Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!

My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)



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What i meant by drill is using an electric drill with a cut off allen key fitted to loosen bolts that are rusty or tight to save stripping the thread in the first place.

Using this method has'nt failed me yet...

Accidents happen so all good.

As you said each to their own.

Jarrah.



__________________

YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!

TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!

Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!

My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)



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I did read your post.

Welding a bolt on works for me as I can do it with out removing the caliper. To drill it accurately I would want to remove the caliper and set it up in the bench drill or, better still, the mill. But it depends what equipment you have and what your skill levels are on the way you choose to do it.

Many roads may lead to your destination and the one you choose to take is up to you.

As you said, each to their own.

 

Peter



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