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The TTR250 FAQ web pages -> TTR250 -> Repairs and maintenance -> Kick starter information
Post Info TOPIC: Kick starter information
ttr steve


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RE: Kickstart
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Good work Sherlockbiggrinbiggrin

Crazy moneyno

Mind you if someone was that desperate, I would be willing to order it in for them.



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TTRfan


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Kick starter information
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Lots of information and photos about the kickstart mechanism here. It has been updated with extra information from this thread in an addendum at the bottom of the page wink

As usual, please let me know of errors or omissions!

Brian

 



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One1


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Kickstart
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any chance my spare 125 engine kickstart is transferrable to my 250? I have a 125 ttr thats used for parts and it has a complete engine with a bad top end. I was thinking of drilling the side plate and adding the kick start if the parts were the same as in the 250. I havent seen a 250 kick start so idk if they are the same parts. 



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petenz


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Do yer really feel that lucky....
i would say not a chance in hell.




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TTRfan


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Kick starter information
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Many have tried to find an alternative kickstart that will fit the TTR - and many have failed!

If you succeed please please let us know.

Good luck!

Brian



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ttr steve


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I have looked at many Yamaha kickers and none are the same as our bikescry

The holy grail for sure! ( no blasphemy intended )wink I will keep looking!



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One1


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Retrofit kickstart
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i have a spare ttr-125 block with a kick start and it looks very similar to the one in the faq. No idea if itll fit, even if i have to mod it a little i would. Anyone ever compared the two?



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TTRfan


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No-one was able to answer when you asked earlier so my guess is that you might be our guinea pig wink

Brian



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ttr steve


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Hi I have found this fische of a TT-R125

TT-R125 kick start.png

Nothing like the TTR250 kicker

ttr250 kicker.png

Hope that helps

Steve



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TTRfan


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I had a very worn swivel bolt on my spare kickstart lever so ordered a new one from Fowlers - it's described as "SCREW CROSS RECESS" and has part number 9015106005.

I am very disappointed in the screw they sent and don't think it is fit for purpose.

Aesthetically, the new screw is bright finished whereas the original part would have been "drab olive green". Also, the head is flat rather than domed.

But, I think the real problem is that it is threaded along its whole length whereas the original had a plain shaft that sat in the retaining groove as you can see in the photo. I am sure that the threaded portion of the new screw that sits in the groove will wear very quickly.

Swivel bolt.jpg  Kickstart ball bearing and spring 4.JPG



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mossproof


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Agreed Brian - the thread will wear much faster. Only solution I would try is to get a much longer countersunk head bolt (ideally "raised countersunk pozi screw") which will have some unthreaded shank section which you could then run a die down to the desired thread length.
I think finding an olive drab green one might be a fruitless task, but with your home plating kit nothing should stop you



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TTRfan


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Many thanks for giving me the technical terminioogy to use Simon!

My Googling for a "6mm raised countersunk pozi machine screw" has failed cry

Not sure how to proceed. Do I need someone with a lathe to turn down a bigger diameter screw perhaps? confuse

This is what I am looking for but, as Simon suggests, I could work with a longer screw as long as it has at least 14mm of plain shank.

Kickstart screw 2.jpg



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TTRfan


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I asked for help on the Classic  Motorcycle Workshop Group on Facebook and despite a huge response, I have drawn a blank. One thing that did come out of it that the head is almost certainly JIS not Pozi - I read an interesting article on the difference here. The fact that it's a Japanese bike also points to JIS. 

Ah well......

Brian

PS There are quite a few of the correct shaped bolts available in the US but the postage costs are silly high. See here. I guess with Covid travel restrictions there won't be anyone travelling back to the UK could carry one over for me cry 



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mossproof


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Agreed probably JIS, but I imagine you'll have even fewer hits searching for that!

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TTRfan


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Agreed Simon. The closest found so far is Pozidriv - see here.



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tripodtiger


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G'day blokes,

I've been reading a bit, as my kick starter remains engaged with the start mechanism on the left side of the engine.

Sprag Clutch here I come. When I can get back into the garage that is. I'll do it simultaneous with the rear suspension.

Point is, thanks for having this resource here.

It's been 4 years since anyone posted on this thread. I don't imagine it's been 4 years since anyone has read through it.



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mossproof


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I think the kicker should disengage on the right hand side too Ray - as the lever goes down it engages with the sharkstooth cog (number 13) which slides left/right on the shaft. A bit of broken circlip or washer could jam it. Hope so - it's cheaper than a sprag clutch!

 

This is the best bike-specific forum there is, and is even useful for working out what's wrong on other bikes.

Thank you Brian!!



-- Edited by mossproof on Monday 15th of July 2024 06:02:17 PM

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tripodtiger


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I'm into it.

20240723_133858.jpg

(I'll have to find the directions to rotate a photo, again)

 

At the point to remove the rotor.  Sort of thinking I should loosen the starter clutch from the flywheel before I take the flywheel off....

That would save me having to hold the flywheel in a vice to remove it.

I've been trying to find an alternative to a $200, one time use, Shealth Holder tool.  Looks like an oil filter strap may do the job.  I know I had a nylon tool but stuffed if I know where it went.  A nylon strap would be good, 'cause it would be soft on the surface of the flywheel.

Another alternative I've thought about is splitting a polythene drain tube into 2 pieces (90 -100mm should be a suitable diameter.  I reckon I'd have some collecting dust down stairs) and using a large g clamp.  With some suitable softening material.

I'd still have to have an 18 x 1.25 bolt turned up to drive the flywheel off.  Why do they call it a puller, when its a driver?

 

I'm a little loath to stick the rear axle in and bang the end of the crank.  Yes, I done it before but I reckon the rotor is undisturbed, if the gasket is anything to go by.

 

Thanks for this suggestion, Mossproof.

kicker should disengage on the right hand side too Ray - as the lever goes down it engages with the sharkstooth cog (number 13) which slides left/right on the shaft. A bit of broken circlip or washer could jam it. Hope so - it's cheaper than a sprag clutch!

 

I fully suspect the starter clutch is rooted.  It's been banging away pretty regularly.  More often than not. I'll have a look at the disassembled engine, maybe the starter clutch on that is ok.

While I've got it this far down, I may as well pull the right side crank cover off as well.  Damn - have to buy that gasket probably.  oh well.

 

Who knows, get this done and the skeletons rooting in the steel box might quieten down!

 

 

 

 



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