I think the problem has to do with the sprag clutch. I have the same problem with a 93 Open Enduro and I'll be replacing the sprag clutch soon and will let you know if it solves it.
this might be a stupid question but is the sprag clutch the same as the starter clutch (part 4GY-15590-00-00)
Yep - they are one and the same!
In general, there are 5 starter bits that tend to get damaged:
The starter motor – particularly the pinion can wear which will then damage the large idler gear.
The large idler gear – No. 1 in the pic below
The small idler gear – No. 4
The very large starter gear – No. 7 - unusual for the teeth to be damaged but the central boss that the sprag clutch runs on can lose its case hardening if a sprag breaks up or a worn sprag has been left too long.
And the usual cause of any problems – the sprag clutch or one-way starter gear – No. 10
If a “banging” sprag clutch isn’t attended to then not only can the gears be damaged but the generator casing will crack.
No point in replacing anything else that is damaged if the sprag clutch isn't replaced at the same time or else it will all happen again
This is an important bit of the TTR engine so please ask any further questions as I bet you aren't the only one interested!
well i have one on order from the US. so il just have to add it to my long list of things to do in the overhaul of the bike. the teeth on the starter motor seem to be slightly worn but i wouldnt say that they were worn enough to worry about.
one question i did have. a fly wheel puller? what is it, how does it work and where can i get one for a cheap price.
iv heard that you can use the rear axle of the ttr?
thanks
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Ok so just an update.... I need help. Iv maniged to get the main bolt out te center of the fly wheel. I didn't have a a fly wheel holder so I made do with a car jack and an old seat belt. Damn it was in there.
Now my main problem is getting the fly wheel off.... I have to say its impossible or I'm doing something very wrong. I tried like the link abouve to use my rear axle... Nothing other then getting it jammed in there.. Rock solid an now I can't get it out... Even with a lot of leverage... I have no idea what to do now... Is the fly wheel really in that hard?? Or am I doing something wrong? In the end I just gave up. So any help would be greatly appreciated.
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When the flywheel seems to be nearly welded on to its shaft it can be very difficult to shift.
If using the Yamaha tool then i give the nut a bang or two with a hammer. The whole thing shoukd be under as much tension as you can provide and the shock of the bang is usually enough to release it. My guess is giving the axle a clonk would have the same effect. At your own risk of course!
I guess I am luck as I have a small compressor which is enough to run a rattle gun which makes the whole thing a doddle.
I might invest in the proper tools. But is the axle is the correct size to use??
Also how exacty does it work. From my understanding there is a wider hole through the fly wheel which a smaller hole is behind it?? Which pushes againsed the incoming bolt/ axle? And pushes the fly wheel towards the outside of the bike??
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Hey guys i got a 2000 aussie ttr250 and sometimes when i go to kickstart it it pushes the electric starter aswell it doesnt happen all the time but sometimes it does any ideas as to what this could be? thanks adam
-- Edited by yamahaTT250R on Sunday 4th of December 2011 04:35:03 AM
I am thinking out loud here so am happy to be corrected!
When you switch the engine off, it usually kicks back slightly. If the sprag clutch is worn this will allow its teeth to jam slightly on the large starter gear's boss. This means that occasionally when kick starting it might start to turn the starter gears and starter before disengaging.
I had the same with my bike ( aussie 2000 ttr250) It got worse and worse over a month then the bang on cut off started. Sprag clutch was fried! If ur gonna get a new one ( sprag) may I sugest getting one from the USA as mr Yamaha in aus wants to charge almost tripple the price.
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Actually i do get some sort of bang when killing the motor and i have been for a while but i didnt realise that could be the bang you are talking about so today i opened up the LH side cover and saw the starter motors gear and it had some small damage to two teeth.
i ordered everything i need including the sprag clutch, 6 crankcase bolts, flywheel puller, gasket from powersports in the US because its as aidan suggested that in australia they charge triple the cost!
hope this works.
Thanks for the help
-- Edited by yamahaTT250R on Monday 5th of December 2011 02:01:50 PM
-- Edited by yamahaTT250R on Monday 5th of December 2011 02:04:07 PM
Thanks for the reply mate,muchly appreciated.Got all the gear as its only my shaft spline that is buggered (welded on). I just need to know whether i can use the shaft or whole assembly???
Here is a complete assembly that also looks the same..
I have found something for you : http://www.megazip.ru/ru/bike/yamaha/view/1262/2808/53555#g53566 Xt250 1983 year Sky Blue (00G8) ; model 30X ; Region : Japan Check the first part number. It looks like 30X-15661-00-00 and 30X-15660-01-00 are the same thing....
Thanks matey,i'm pretty sure it's the same part by looking at it and how close the numbers are. So if the -01- isn't the year model then i'm not sure as there is no info that i have found on this. By looking at the parts they look the same. Thanks for your help,i may just buy either tt250,it250,wr250,yzf250 as they are all the same part number just to see if they are the same
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hey, wait a minute, those part numbers actually have a meaning:
4GY means "first made to fit a TTR250" (not sure which year, Brian may know) 30X means "first made to fit an XT250" (1984 base model?)
many of the official yamaha TTR250 parts in this format don't start with 4GY, and this is because they were adopted from some previous model bike.
15660 is a particular part code (but NOT a screw or washer etc, which have different patterns, hyphens in different places). the number is hierarchical - the first couple of digits are a group code (eg , engine, frame, carb etc).
15660 means "kickstart shaft" - nothing more. and there must be scores of different ones made by yamaha all bearing the 15660 sub code.
01 means "not a variant" (0) and "design modification number 1" (1)
the final 00 doesn't mean much (usually reserved for color etc)
I can tell you (from looking at the external end near the kickstarter lever of my TTR250 and WR250F) that THEY, at least, are physically different, although that's not much help.
but who knows? maybe even they can still, in practice be interchangeable, but the actual lever fit may have to be fiddled. I wouldn't be surprised if the XT250 part worked in the TTR250l.
try googling "structure of yamaha part numbers".
By the way, am I the only one who finds the standard TTR250 kick start lever to be annoyingly positioned relative to the inside of your right leg? has anyone found an easy way to bend/file or modify it to get it more out of the way - eg bending in at top (or maybe the swivel stop cut back?).
I didn't say that the kickstarters of Wr, Xt, TTR ... are the same. I just said that -01- doesn't means the year . I know taht they are different. The standart kickstart of TTR250 is comfortable to me :)
By the way, am I the only one who finds the standard TTR250 kick start lever to be annoyingly positioned relative to the inside of your right leg? has anyone found an easy way to bend/file or modify it to get it more out of the way - eg bending in at top (or maybe the swivel stop cut back?).
I have found that the kickstart lever can catch in boots or leggings when you least need it! My solution has been to use a rubber band made from an old inner tube (worth keeping a few in your toolkit as these have a lot of uses!) which I attach to the top shock reservoir clip and then wind it around the top of the lever. Stops it waggling around at least!
Okay i took off my kickstart from the bolt (the 1 bolt which removes the kickstarter leg) because it keeps flicking out itself is there supposed to be some spring inside? mine doesnt have anything, can anyone do me a favour and undo theres and put some pictures up so i can see if its the same
If anyone knows where to buy either the kickstart mechanism or kickstart shaft (any model from 1992-2006) please let me know
My only other option is to drive two and a half hours to nearest decent bike wreckers and buy one off them,but would rather brand new,any ideas anyone????
The ball bearing out of a back mountain bike rim axle is 5.6mm measured with a micrometer
The original bearing is 5.5mm
Maybe you need a bigger ball bearing so it does'nt fall out again?
You should only have to drill 6mm or so in the spring hole to allow spring travel for the bearing
If your worried about making the hole too big inside the lever itself you could just drill through from the outside and round it a bit in the lever hole (shown in uploaded pic) with a 5.5mm drill bit....
Maybe you don't have to do this and it will fit straight in?? Obviously doing this while the kickstart is apart.
You could try it if you have an old maintain bike lying around (not the neighbours) you could try it but up to you.
-- Edited by TTRfan on Monday 27th of August 2012 10:09:37 PM
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Thanks Martyn that helped a little but this search box aint the only search box i have tried for this one believe me lol.
Sourcing a second hand one is hard let alone a BRAND NEW shaft to fit to my assembly
They must be like rocking horse sh*t lol
Miight have to settle for a second hand one on ebay but f***ed if i could find one lol
I understand about my questions being hard and did'nt mean it to sound like that as i am very gratefull for any help i recieve so thanks all.
Still pondering on what to do but i'll work it out i guess
Hopefully a good second hand one will show up at the right time??
Oh i know about the US ttr's not coming standard with kickstart and have purchased a bottom end (see profile pic)from the US and hence the reason why i need one.
Cheers.
Jarrah
-- Edited by barra8 on Friday 10th of August 2012 09:28:28 AM
__________________
YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!
TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!
Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!
My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)
Your difficulty in sourcing NEW kickstarter assemblies is probably due to the fact that they are not supplied to all countries, e.g. USA specific TTRs do not come with them as standard.
If you are keen enough to want a BRAND NEW kickstart then you would be best ordering one directly with a Yamaha dealer/supplier.
Second hand examples are obtainable from the likes of Ebay (occasionally) and I do believe TotallyTTRs have sold a few as and if they were available.
You ask, "Is it just me or do i ask impossible questions??? Nobody seems to reply??? lol " But you forgot the all important question mark "?" at the end.
Your queries are seen and if they can be answered then they are (or at least I try answering). Some of your queries, however, are not as easy to settle and pose a bit of difficulty in their solution. Quite a few questions can be resolved by judicial use of the "search" facility at the page top. Your query may have been asked before. There's no need to re-invent the wheel.
I tried fitting my 1992-1999 kickstart mechanism to my recently acquired 2003 (1999-2006)
The kickstart shaft is too big for the hole in casing not sure about the intermediate gear yet as i have'nt taken the clutch boss off but looks different also??
I'm pretty sure i seen somewhere on here that any kickstart mechanism will fit but not this one
Not sure what to do now as the one in the FAQ is 1992-1999 and mine is 2003 (not the same)
I don't even have a clue what part number to buy know as i thought it was the same as 1992-1999
Guess i'll be using that (cheating) magic button alot
Weeks of searching has payed off finally. I found a link to buy it but it costs AU$467.73 but atleast i know what years it fits eg. 1998 - 2012 and the part number 4GY-W0795-01 not sure why it's different eg. 1992-1998?? = 4GY-W0795-01-00 guess the -00 on the end makes it different
Progress is good but there is no way i'm paying that much unless i have to lol.
I came across an interesting fact when doing that,not sure if it's already been mentioned though??
The 1992-1999 clutch plates are the same as 1999-2006
The boss and basket are different but if you changed the clutch basket,clutch boss and fitted the 1999=2006 clutch cover you would be able to upgrade from 6 to 7 clutch plates and get the higher oil volume at the same time. Casing fits no problem along with the rest.
Also if people with 6 plates could just go to www.boats.net and order 6 of the 1999-2006 clutch friction plates, 6 pressure plates and it would be no problems provided you have'nt used anymore than about three sets of clutch plates and file the groves on the basket flat. Also the clutch springs are the same so would make it cheap to buy.
-- Edited by barra8 on Friday 10th of August 2012 10:04:40 PM
__________________
YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!
TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!
Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!
My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)