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Post Info TOPIC: Top end rebuild


Guru

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Top end rebuild
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Hey guys,i'm new here as you might notice so i hope i aint asking already asked questions. I have a open enduro-white ttr250. My problem is that no matter how hard i try i cannot find any info on rebuilding the top end. Have found a vague description on some of the work but nothing solid. It has been 5 long hours of searching for infofurious but still a blank where info should be cry If someone can point me in the right direction to a link or help me through the process it would be great. Pictures would be a bonus also. I have already removed the barrel (call me dumb)but can't seem for the life of me to get the gudgeon pin out to remove the piston. Is there a method to this as all the ones i have seen just slide out easy once the circlips are removed. I removed the circlips but still no easy way out????noDon't want to break anything so yeah kinda stuck. Any help would be greatly appreciated...



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Thanks for the reply and thought i was doing it right but was'nt sure. It must be seized,welded in there or something as it was hard. Yes it did seize from low oil or bad oil rings???so your on the right track i think.Atleast i know i'm doing it the correct way. Any ideas on how to free it?It slides about 4mm but does'nt come out either side???? Thanks mate!!!



-- Edited by barra8 on Thursday 23rd of August 2012 12:14:55 AM

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YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!

TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!

Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!

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Senior Member

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I haven't done a TTR motor myself, but looking in the manual it does indeed have clips. I'm sure you'll hear from those who know soon.

 

In the meantime, go here:  LINK   to get a copy of a service manual. Matt G has generously helped many of us out.



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NEK (Almost in Canada)

VERMONT USA



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Welcome to the TTR forum, Barra8. Just in time by the sound of things biggrin

This LINKY THINGY will take you to a cylinder head article which is to be found in this site's FAQ pages (Top l/h of this page).

The piston is located on the little end bush and held in place with circlips.

/download.spark?ID=961970&aBID=139305

Once a circlip is removed the gudgeon pin should just push out without undue force. confuse

Has yours been welded in by a seizure or lack of oil thereby getting too hot?

Martyn



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East Budleigh. Devon



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Thanks brian and all that helped yaz ROCK!!! I'm going to give it an other go and yeah should be fine with the rest. Can't thank yaz enough as it was stressing me out big time searching all day ;

 

Edited: Update: Tried using a g-clamp but as you can see from below it broke lol no OH well just a cheapie smile What i ended up doing was finding the right size socket,putting a thick rag under conrod (over block) rag over piston and supported it by pushing down with my knee (kinda hurt my knee a little lol ). I then proceeded to use a hammer to bash it out while supporting it (of course) and to my suprize it slowly pushed through smile Thanks for the help once again and hopefully someone can benifit from this also.  Cheers guys... Moral to the story: When a big hammer does'nt work use a BIGGER hammer biggrin and a BIGGER support biggrin

Photo_00043.jpg



__________________

YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!

TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!

Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!

My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)



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barra8 wrote:

Thanks for the reply and thought i was doing it right but was'nt sure. It must be seized,welded in there or something as it was hard. Yes it did seize from low oil or bad oil rings???so your on the right track i think.Atleast i know i'm doing it the correct way. Any ideas on how to free it?It slides about 4ml but does'nt come out either side???? Thanks mate!!!


Hmmm - this may be a two-handed job so that no further damage is done. You need to have the piston firmly supported and it should then be possible to tap the gudgeon pin through using a drift and minimal force. Ideally you would use some sort of press but I can't think what sort!

There is no separate little end bearing on the TTR conrod so, if the conrod bearing surface is mullered, I am afraid it'll be needing a new conrod fitting cry

Hopefully you found the rest of the information you needed at Martyn's link. Lots of other helpful guides included here http://ttr250.activeboard.com/t43766844/simple-step-by-step-pictorial-guides/

Brian



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