A forum for owners of Yamaha TTR250 trail and enduro bikes!

I know it's quite expensive, but Baja do a kit http://www.bajadesigns.com/ProductDetail/121014_Dual-Sport-Kit-Ttr250

-- Edited by truslack on Friday 10th of February 2012 03:03:26 PM

Hi, Matt.

I put a speedometer cluster from an xt225 on my NA TT-R250 with very little hassle--no cutting or other modifications to the speedometer cluster required. I also agree with truslack that the Baja kit might be worth the price, in the end--especially considering the great deal that you got on the bike.

Is that an xt 225 bash plate that you are considering putting on the TT-R? Is it a plausible fit? I don't really like any of the after market plates that I have seen being sold for the TT-R250 here in North America, and I have been considering having a very simple one fabricated that could fit between the stock protection bars and the frame.

Larry

Pete if you need help you can e-mail me mfairy@optonline.net or skype and I can walk you through it. Do you by any chance have access to a set of welding nozzle cleaners? I bought mine for about a tenner - the needle sized cleaners are for cleaning the tips of accetylene torches, they are THE BEST tool you can ever have for cleaning out holes in the jets. Also when you strip it soak EVERYTHING overnight in acetone. It will clean all the crud off. If you are scared, take pics as you dissamble it - then you have a reference.
Let me know if you need any help mate!

Matt

Making a 2006 road legal part II - $2.00 per cc………..

So I’ve always been the bloke that the lost or stray dog followed home……  I believe the technical term is sucker!!! (My faithful mutt Winston is sitting with me as I write this)

As soon as I figure out how to get this in one post, with people’s comments in sequence - I’ll put it all in one post!  As you know from the first piece, I’ve been collecting up bits here and there. ( Thanks Larry for the beautiful headlamp and fender)!!! My search is narrowing down, I’ve almost got all the parts.  I had gotten a good deal on a set of almost new DOT legal tires, and I wanted to find a pair of rims to put them on. I was seeing rear wheels for $250 even 275! And front wheels between $ 175-225 – YIKES! This is not cheap!

So I kept searching the web, looking for TTR250 and found an 02 with a blown motor for $500.

He had misspelled Yamaha (spelling isn’t my strong point either) So after I looked through the add it had been posted 4 times (120 days) I’m not sure why but I called the guy, thought I would ask him if he wanted to sell the wheels. As we spoke He assured me it wasn’t stolen and I just blurted out “I’ll give you $250.00” to my surprise he said yes!

 

This is what it looked like, and I got my wheels…..

I got it home, and began to pull it down. Bit of frame damage, OK TTR's how should I fix that? suggestions please..... I  also want to tear that motor down and see what the score is. ( one day)

 scruffy but nearly all there........

 

Later that day…..

I get an e-mail from my autosearch - I think this is a message to me……..

For Sale TTR 250 engine. Less than 10 hours, Got it for a go kart project which never happened.

I called the guy,  turns out the bike was brand new, He went riding with his brother in law CR 250 and TTR 250 , VERY first ride, he got it sideways and hit a tree, bent the frame and swing arm, broke his leg and that was that. His brother in law parted the bike out and gave up riding…….

It was advertised for $350 and for the second time that day I offered $250 and he said yes….oh well

Now we are at the magic $2.00 per cc!

So the plan is, get my bike road legal, then put together a second bike for friends ( maybe one of my son's) to ride.... we'll see

Matt

close up of the frame damage:

so the mounting bracket lug at the rear on the "hoop" end is about 1" off center, and one side is lower by about an 1 1/8th"

To answer your question clubber, the bits missing are battery box, r/h side panel, rear mudguard & light.... its basically all there.

 

So please guys give me your thoughts on fixing the bumper,

 

Matt

Brian :

Hi Brian, I tried a line up with a rear mudguard - its off as described....... The tab IS in the right place the hoop of the frame is not!

Pete, switching an engine is MUCH easier than rebuilding one!  After rebuilding an E-type engine, nothing is that difficult anymore.......

but thanks for the salute!  Pete what tires are you using mate? are they road legal?

 

Matt

I am betting that it will bend to the correct shape with a decent length of 4"x2" used as a lever.

matteo wrote:

---

Brian, should I heat with a torch before bending?

---

Try without but if it isn't bending as you want then apply some heat where you want it to bend - but I would advise two of you on that job. 

How you tried contacting the DMV in Utah? I think that is your best bet, as each state is very different and the regulations do change over the years. What you want to do can't even be done in CA, anymore.

Its Exhausting.........  Poor mans Powercore

So noise was an issue, my old pipe came with no baffle,

 I was offered one for $50, thats not happening and it wont pass inspection as is.(too noisy) SOooooo  I finshed up with this....

A 2 hour WR250 pipe - very cheap. I finally finished work early enough to get something done..... off with the old one, and on with the new one.

 

I started trying it for size, it was much longer and stuck out way too far, so out with the hacksaw......

and a little cut and trim .......

so I can weld the end piece back on like this..... and then trial fit again.

all good so far and trim off a wee bit more ........ cut a pair of slits for the clamp.....

and lets try it again.....

except the brackets dont line up, I dont want to mess about welding onto the frame, so option B (Tidier) is move the bracket.... out comes Mr. Dremmel......

later that Dremmel........

 

a bit of clean up so it sits nice and flat.......

bracket needs to move a bit further back, and slightly sideways.........

 

new position vs old position.........

Drill some holes ( I used AN6 aircraft rivets - very strong+ I had them)

 

then in the body of the muffler

and now........

 

time for a final try and fit.......

zip it all back up........

then we are ready for a little testing....... Ok so it looks pretty, its MUCH lighter, nice bark when it starts up....

SO a quick ride tells me it works too! more powerful, definatley more bottom end, and quicker throttle response. best of all its quieter than the stock pipe with the missing baffle. I already went to the WR forum ,and looked up baffle mods and/or removal for even more grunt. I'm VERY happy best of all I spent $65.00 all together.

Oh and yes the eagle eyed will notice no exhaust clamp - old one is welded on, and local autoparts shop is closed for the day.

 

I'll keep you posted, have a nice weekend guys!

Friday 6pm glass of wine time..... job completed!

I got another WR exhaust if anyone is interested.....

 

 

 

-- Edited by matteo on Friday 20th of April 2012 11:01:16 PM

-- Edited by matteo on Friday 20th of April 2012 11:06:46 PM

Nice bit of engineering Matt - good job 

Carbs do need a bit of sttention if the bike has been stood for a while, makes the world of differnence, I find the float vlave has a tendancy to stick if it has sat for a while.

Out of interest does the xt225 bash plate go straight on? I have both a ttr and an xt and the bashplates look very different at a glance.

So it just occured to me last night I may be boring some of you to tears, but to my English brothers, if its boring I apologise - WE DONT HAVE road legal TTR's here, there are a few that people have done and a couple of companies that did it when they were still available. So all you TTR fans overseas that ride everyday on the road - feel good about it - freedom!

I really have fallen for this bike, I love riding it, its one of - if not the best bike I have ever had! I've had some that were too fast, some that did'nt handle well, some that didnt stop well - I feel very good overall about this one!, and its mine!! I cant wait to get the work finished , get it inspected and get it registered.

So I have almost have all the parts now, I'll do a total up $$ when I have it and post here, but I know I spent WAY under the cost of a in-the-box enduro kit, and like most of you - I like to add bits that I think make it a bit more personalised.

My last and very good score is below $30+ shipping from a brand new WR250 on "fleabay"

I'll need a hydraulic brake light switch (anyone know what size thread it is?)

and I think thats it.

In Connecticut state law to register a bike states the motorcycle must have a DOT approved muffler (90-93db) so no FMF pipes!! speedo, front and rear turn signals, horn, mirror on each side, license plate holder facing rear, brake light front and rear activated, reflector facing rear, DOT approved tires, chain guard, hi and low beam headlamp.

I have to get it in a van or truck, drive it 80 miles to the test center, have it inspected and tested, ($80 fee) get a title ($20 fee) then register it (about 6% of purchase price) is it worth it? YOU BETCHA!!

Someone let me ride a WR250 for an afternoon, I'm not old by any means, but I was BEAT afterwards - the seat is a plank! Dont get me wrong if you own one - enjoy but the TTR250 is for me!

I'm really looking forward to this........

Its my friend Larry's bike, XT250 and we have some stunning country lanes and green lanes around here, with some added approved forest trails.... I'm really pumped!

well ok Ive already done a few miles with him!

 

more soon,

 

Matt

PS stuck this in too......

The difference is very impressive, and my old filter was clean!! + it was $20!! NOS.

Oh I found this today, a picture of my very first bike.....

anyone remember these? I used to proudly ride it around Walthamstow and the streets of the East end of London. life was simple then.... and it was a MOPED!!! you could pedal it by reversing the kickshaft, putting it in 6th gear and inducing an asthma attack trying to pedal.....

 

Matt

PPS suspension set up - what do you guys recoemnd for front and rear fork/ shock settings?

 

-- Edited by matteo on Friday 4th of May 2012 11:34:50 PM

im looking to street legal my TT-R have looked at kits from oem to aftermarket. im wondering has any on the forum done a conversion and if so what kit would be the recommended, my TT-R is set up with a mile gauge so all i have to do is buy a speedometer so im ok there, just wondering about the lighting kits

See:

http://ttr250.activeboard.com/t47763949/making-a-2006-ttr-road-legal/

http://ttr250.activeboard.com/t48535220/making-my-2005-ttr-street-legal-in-utah/

I used a Tusk kit for my lights blinkers and horn it all worked fine

Just got my inspection this AM, TTR is now totally legal; registered, insured & inspected!

Here in the US these things are completely up to the individual states & after reading all the stuff on-line it wasn't looking so hopeful, as many states have pretty resrtictive rules. But thankfully Vermont is one of the more reasonable places to deal with, so the process is complete.

I had to add: mirror, horn, brake light, low-beam, license plate bracket w/light & a speedo. Turn signals are not required here.

The brake light & hi/lo beam are already on the bike just not hooked up so switches were added & wired in. For the speedo, I got a Trail Tech Vapor, seems to work really well.

Now to start working on seat-time!

-- Edited by TDVT on Friday 20th of July 2012 11:16:18 PM

I recently got my TTR on the road here in Vermont & on Martyn's suggestion, thought I'd share what I ended up doing. Many other states have more requirements so your mileage may vary, as they say.

As I posted in another thread, I had to add: mirror, horn, brake light, low-beam, license plate bracket w/light & a speedo. Turn signals are not required here.

The first thing I sourced out was a light/turn/horn switch as most of my wiring would involve that part. Mateo had found a nice one on eBay & I bought the same unit, it cost me around $10 shipped.

It was MUCH cheaper than most you'll find & my only gripes are the small gauge 10” pigtail wires & that the bullet connectors are smaller than the standard Yamaha connectors. It would be really nice if it had heavier duty wiring but it works fine. It also has the turn-signal switch which I didn't need to use, but I have the option.

 

I wanted to use the typical motorcycle bullet connectors for all the wiring mods to make maintenance/connections easier but had a hard time finding bullet connectors here in the US. Then I came across this site, EASTERN BEAVER. It is run by a Canadian motorcyclist now living in Japan & has a great selection of high quality motorcycle connectors, relays, etc. My order arrived here in less than a week, no issues with customs & shipping was about the same as if I had ordered from within the US. I crimped the connectors but also soldered all of them as well, since my crimpers are marginal at best. There is lots of good info there about relays, etc.

 

For the mirror, I bought a BIKEMASTER folding mirror after reading a number of reviews. It folds out of the way nicely, doesn't vibrate too badly (it's actually usable) & the the regular right-hand thread version screws right into the hole on the clutch lever perch (mine had a plug in it). I did the left side only as that is all that was required. I think the TTR's right side has reverse threads, but they make a mirror for that side as well.

 

The horn (in a lower pic) was a $10 generic 12V horn available from many suppliers. One place I found (but didn't order from, as I already had parts coming) was fourstrokesonly.com in California. He has horns, the brake switch I needed, license plate brackets & also a threaded block-off cap for the speedo drive. There is no online ordering, I guess you have to call. Lots of info there too.

 

The easiest way to wire in the brake light is to use a hydraulic actuated switch(s) (about $15). They take the place of the hollow bolt that goes through the banjo fitting on the master cylinders & close the circuit when pressure is applied to the hydraulic system. I wasn't required to have it on both front & back, so I have a switch on the back brakes only, as the wiring is more protected & tidy. From what I've read, a lot of states require front AND rear. The TTR uses the 10 X 1.25mm thread.

 

The only lights the US TTR's have is the tail light & the high beam (only) wired to an on/off switch. I left the stock on/off light switch in place & fed my hi/lo switch (headlight section only) from that.

The light sockets are already wired for both low beam & brake light respectively, but there is no connection to the wiring harness for either. The proper dual-filament bulbs were already there on mine. I simply added a 1/4” female spade connector to the empty slot in the multi-connector (harness side) when I added the extra wires for the brake light & high beam. Due to the small gauge wire in the hi/lo switch, I decided to use a relay to provide power directly from the battery when I'm on the high beam. Eastern Beaver has a good info section on relay wiring.

I also had to add a license bracket w/plate light & found some REALLY small LED illuminated license plate bolts on eBay. I decided to mount one above the plate instead of through the plate itself. Pretty bright, LOW current draw & it is tapped into the tail light for power. The aluminum bracket itself is fastened to the frame with countersunk bolts (w/rubber washers) into tapped holes.

In the time since I did mine, I have noticed many local hard-core enduro bikes have the plate bolted right to the fender, facing skyward. I think fourstrokesonly.com has a tail light lens that will fit a TTR & has a small strip of clear plastic at the base that would illuminate the plate in that configuration.

The horn & brake light are fed from a source that is switched on/off by the key (NOT the light switch) so they both always work when ever the key is on, even if the head/tail lights are off. If I were to have added turn signals, I would have used this same feed.

 

Last I added a speedometer, as the US bikes only have a trip-odo. I decided to use the Trail Tech Vapor after checking one out a local shop. Unfortunately the kit they had was for inverted-fork bikes (different sensor) like a WR. The kit that fits a TTR250 is #85-704, which I ordered directly from Trail Tech as no one had any.

I thought I could use the factory odo bracket to mount the Trail Tech (the included bracket didn't work either) but it was too low & I had to fabricate a new one to get a good line of sight, otherwise the installation was very easy.

The speedo sensor adheres to the lower fork tube with some industrial double-faced tape & is activated by a magnet that takes the place of one of the brake disc bolts. They suggest wiring it directly to the battery (always powered) but it goes into sleep mode after 20 minutes of inactivity. As soon as the magnet passes the sensor it wakes up again, even pushing the bike around the garage.

It was also easy to calibrate. I used the rolling method where you mark the tire & floor, then roll the bike one front wheel revolution & measure the distance. That measurement (in mm) is the factor that you enter into the unit. The Trail Tech has many other functions; trip odo, accumulated mileage & time, time of day, air temp, etc. There is also an engine temp sensor but the wire wasn't long enough so I haven't hooked it up yet as I need to order an extension.

Bright display when hard-wired, no problem reading it in bright daylight.

In the end nothing really hard to do but luckily I had to make minimal additions,other states have more requirements; turn signals, chain guards, reflectors, etc.

I hope this helps with the basics, at least one way of doing it.

 

 

-- Edited by TDVT on Monday 23rd of July 2012 02:57:13 PM

Cubber wrote:

---

That is brilliant Ted, nice and detailed with good pictures.

I like how you've not destroyed or removed the stock TTR stuff and modified just enough to satisfy the rules.

I bet you're dead chuffed with it and well pleased.

Martyn

---

 +1

Excellent job 

Hello KamJam and welcome to the forum

The US TTR250 wiring harnesses do not have provisions for brake lights (according to the wiring diagram). You will need to splice a wire into the brown wire that leads from the ignition/main switch. This wire will then be a power feed wire for the switch. You now need another wire (preferably yellow) to run from the other side of the switch (the receiving side) to the brake light. The same must be done for the front (if required) but you should splice the two (preferably yellow) wires that lead from the switch to the brake light together, rather than have two wires to connect to the brake light.

Hope that helps, any questions- ask!

Jarrah

-- Edited by TT-R250M on Tuesday 7th of January 2014 11:02:20 PM

Does anyone know what year the WR250F pipe was from?