A forum for owners of Yamaha TTR250 trail and enduro bikes!

A quick update... Justin at Gibbs Performance is sending the shaft off to a company who will strip it back and repair and re plate it . There was some concern that the turn around would be 12 weeks. Good news is that it should be only 3. Adrian (noeyedeer) has very kindly offered me a shock to use until mine comes back..one million thanks! 

Still none the wiser as to whether there are any new oe shocks or after market shocks out there, would be useful to know as I doubt I'll be the last in this predicament. 

the more coils a spring has for the same free length/ dia / wire dia the softer it is..

Run the spring specs though this suspension spring calc..
www.pontiacracing.net/js_coil_spring_rate.htm

Rather than try an alien set up have you considered having yours renovated?

This guy in Saltash reservices shocks at a very reasonable price - cheaper than new - and he customises to your requirements too.

There will be someone near you, like THIS ONE here, possibly.

Martyn

I think I have probably tried all the possible short cuts over the years and must have thought of that one and tried it 

I am pretty sure that you wouldn't get the shock down through the swing arm.

This sequence includes the long way of doing it - http://www.joatmoa.co.uk/ttr250/stepbystepguide.htm 

Brian

chrisstdt wrote:

I got the shock down through the swingarm but the rear wheel was off so maybe i had the swingarm lifted right up ? it was only last night but cant remember

 You have to remove the swingarm linkage from the swingarm and lift the swingarm to remove it from the bottom.

However, the easiest way would be to do as I did in my rebuild thread (although I am not sure if having the exhaust removed helped?)-

The shock & linkage is now installed. To do this (because I already had the airbox installed) I slipped it through the right side of the frame. I then maneuvered the shock reservoir into place (took some careful tactics) then installed the lower bolt to the linkage. I then maneuvered the shock into place & installed the top shock bolt from the left side (took some skilful tactics & a lot of dropping the washer :). Then once it was installed from the left side with the washer (you have to place the washer against frame mount then install bolt- ''tricky'') I fitted the top washer & nut from the right side.

Failing that, use Brian's method.

Jarrah

I didn't like answering prior to confirmation, but I thought it would be possible.

Looking at my link bearing replacement shots it seemed there'd be lots of room to get the shck out.

But there's still lots of dismantling to get at the fixings and therefore perhaps not much overall time saved.

Now we all know it's possible, thanks to Hp.

AND your TTR's no worse than most others in the cleanliness stakes!

Martyn

If the rear shock is working as it should and it is just a little hiss when it is compressed, it is normal.

When it needs rebuilding the seals will leak and the shock will become spongy/soft. It will be obvious that it needs rebuilding or replacing.

They are very robust and do not usually fail unless the chromed rod/strut is corroded.

Jarrah

Along as the free play is not too much, the squeaking is pretty usual if it's dirty but can indicate that a replacement bush may be needed. Try using WD40 or brake cleaner to clean the dust/dirt out of the collars but try not to disturb the actual bearing too much as it has it's own special grease and an ultra-high molecular polyurethane. If this grease runs out (becomes dry) the bush/bearing must be replaced. 

The upper suspension bush is a dry bearing (Polylube) but ample Molybdenum disulphide grease must be used on the collars and seals. You may want to do this also.

The upper and lower shock absorber bush/bearings can be very pricey unfortunately. All Balls, pivot works etc. kits can be found for the lower bush but I am yet to find any suppliers for the upper bush/bearing apart from Brian's supplier. This type would be a replacement of the standard bush/bearing- http://www.joatmoa.co.uk/ttr250/#bushkit

Jarrah 

that sounds ok .just make sure the sest tab slides into the thingo on the tank .

i think  reason for the movment is the same as plastic radiator tanks in cars .that is it needs to move otherwse it cracks .

and the top bearing lube job sounds ok .it will last a while longer but they do eventualy fail just keep an eye on it 

Mine has always been like that .don't notice it in the bush 

(Resurrecting an old thread....)

Hi,
I think that was my thread on the Yahoo forum 

Yeah, I used the All Balls lower shock bearing kit 29-5013 in the top of the shocker with no problems.

You do need to use a couple of washers on either side of the bearing bushings to space them out to a snug fit between the frame lugs, but other than that no problems at all.

Regards, ff.

Yep - the blue TTR's shock will fit straight into yours

When buying a used shock be 100% certain that the rod is perfect - not worn and no flaking or marks in the chrome. You are talking £180 for repair otherwise....

I know from experience 

Brian

Hi Mike

The eBay shock has been on for a while and the price looks good (very cheap in fact!) if it's a 100% with good rod, bump stop and top and bottom bearings - plus of course still having all its oil and pressure. I do wonder why though, after all this time, the seller hasn't taken the shock out, cleaned it up, and put some clear pictures of it in his advert 

I think that its Justin's busy time of the year but when that happens he usually fits in a day to catch up on shock fettling. Give him a ring and see how he is fixed.

If you haven't had yours out of the TTR then it's worth doing so that you can have a good luck at the rod to see if there is any damage which might have caused your oil/pressure loss. It's usually the repair and re-chroming of the rod that can take a long time. There seems to be only one firm in the UK that does that work 

It's also a good chance to replace your bump stop if its at all perished.

Brian

PS If you decide to go for the eBay shock and its OK then I am interested in your old shock for spares for a sensible amount of beer tokens. In particular I need a reservoir 

Does anyone know of a UK source of bump stops the same height and id as the TTR ones please? I have had a couple of enquiries from customers today but my Googling for an alternative has failed!

Justin Gibbs at Saltash can supply them at about £20 a pop but just wondered if there was a cheaper but effective alternative.

Brian

petenz wrote:

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I have made them in the past....
95A polyurethane... the same OD
cut the length bore a hole

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Hi Pete

I have found a UK supplier of polyurethane rod 44.5mm diameter 90/95A.

To get a bit of shape and bore the hole for the rod I am assuming you need access to a lathe. Would special tools be required?

Sorry to be ignorant but I have never had the good fortune to use a lathe.

Brian

Where do I start!

Firstly the top bearing is shot and the shock is knocking a lot when I am riding off road. I hear this is a common problem.

I tried to get it out but whilst using a drift to try and knock it out I managed to loosen off one of the bleed bolts and some oil has come out of the shock. Is this going to affect it?

Does anyone know how to get the bearing out? Oh and where can I get a new one?

Cheers guys...

I fitted the top bearing kit that is mentioned in FAQ once fitted it should be the last time you have to do it .

If it's just a tiny amount of oil fix up the bearing and ride .

If it's a lot it should be emptyed and refilled with the correct amount 

TTRHead wrote:

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Thanks mate. It didn't that long ago come back from a service. Gibbs Performance done it

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Martin from Gibbs Performance rang a week or so ago asking about replacing the top bearing on a shock they had in for service/repair and I was able to help as we now stock them in our eShop.

Hopefully Justin and Martin at Gibbs can help future TTR owners by fitting them if needed whilst they have the shock in their workshop. The owner would still need to spread the mounting a tad to accommodate the wider bearing but that's an easy job and the bolts etc to do that come with the top bearing kit.

Brian

Got e bearing out. Thanks for the help. Now shall I bother getting another original one or the one TTRfan has mentioned?

Can I put the oil in my shock or can any bike shop? or is this a specialist job?

Cheers guys..