Morning all, I'm currently running with 14/44 sprockets on my Raid but when i bought it, it came with a Renthal 52 tooth sprocket and chain to go with it.
What will i notice putting the 52 sprocket on? How will the bike differ?
FYI - i only do 'lane' riding with a bit of road to link up the lanes...no commuting or long distance roadwork.
When I got the bike the ratio was 13:48 - and the gearbox sprocket ended up a tad "hooked".
A larger gearbox sprocket gives a chain a better life and also reduces the onset of 'hooking'.
I noticed extremely little variation by switching from 13:48 to 14:52.
Top speed is roughly the same, main road running average 60 to 65 mph, flat out just over 75.
The bike on the trail is no different, she pulls well in a high gear (plenty of torque) and the nadgery stuff can stil be taken in second.
No difference in mpg that I noticed.
I altered the chain guide by judicious filing of the slots on the carrier to lower it overall.
The difference you will notice with a change from 44 to 52 is a lower top speed but quicker acceleration, so if you're mainly trailing it will (IMO) be much better and more controlable. Go for it.
The difference you will notice with a change from 44 to 52 is a lower top speed but quicker acceleration, so if you're mainly trailing it will (IMO) be much better and more controlable. Go for it.
Martyn
Hi Martyn, Brilliant, thanks for this....this is what i was hoping for so it shall be done...when i have a spare bit of time! Thank you.
Well the chap i bought it all from said it all matched and was compatible...gold renthal chain and gold renthal sprocket. I believe it had been used for a short period of time on said bike too....
If all the parts match then you will love what the 14/52 gearing will do for the TTR
When laning with too high gearing, quite often you find yourself in 1st gear on the technical stuff. This is where an accidental jerk on the throttle at the wrong time can see the front end head up into the hedge or the back end come around to meet the front.
Much better to run lower gearing so that you are in the higher gears most of the time but leaving 1st gear for those impossible bits
No it doesnt on models that have the speedo cable running from the back of the speedo to the front wheel hub. I can tell you from experience you will love that gearing, the stock 14/44 is too crap. not just crap. too crap.
Does changing the gearing alter the accuracy of the speedo readout?
Dave is right in that the blue TTRs with a mechanical speedo drive won't be affected but the digital speedos, as fitted to your Raid, will be affected by any change of gearing as the speedo pick up is situated on the output shaft behind the front sprocket.
Looks like an excellent solution Brian, however due to cost it'll have to go on the wish list, along with frame guards, new footpegs, one of those specially made exhausts, etc. So much to do, so little cash... Thanks for the reply anyway, I'll probably end up GPS'ing my speed and noting down the equivalents next to the Speedo. As far as I know the Speedo being accurate isn't an mot requirement, you just have to have 'a device for measuring speed', which it still would be even if incorrect. Perhaps it would depend on the tester. To be fair they'd never know if I didn't tell them! Pete
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Pete Brown
Keighley, West Yorkshire
'94 Yamaha TTR 250 Raid (with Open Enduro headlight, grrr...)
Thanks all for your replies, I'll be getting the sproket and chain changed over before my next ride out. I'm not too bothered about the speedo reading to be honest, it's not really an issue off the tarmac and i'll not be breaking any land speed records on the tarmac.!!!! Thanks again everyone. Neil.
Well, just got the bike back and had a bit of a surprise, as i mentioned before, when i bought the bike it came with a spare 52 rear sprocket and chain..it was all bagged up so i took it along to be fitted today...
I go to collect, chap gives me back myold 44 sprocket and chain...and a 14 front sprocket!
Turns out in the bag i gave him was a 13 front sprocket too which the chap fitted as he thought it was part of the job.
So now i'm running a 13/52 set up and boy does she pull from low speeds! Through the gears is powerful but i'm in top before i know it! Good job i don't do much(if any) long road sections!
Anyone else run this combination? Could this set up cause problems to the chain etc (hooking??)
2nd really is all thats needed to pull away!!!!! It powers on like a totally different bike to be honest! Much more controlable and fun!!! I've got the afternoon off work on Wed remeber...if you (or anyone else!) fancies a ride out??
So a whole afternoon out yesterday on my own and i had great fun, however i don't think i can live with the sprocket set up as it is....13/52 gives such a low top speed that any tarmac work is slow progress, i feel like i'm wringing it's neck and revving the engine too hard....just to sit at about 45 mph! (not that i'd know the actual speed as the readout says about 95kmh!!!)
Think i'll have the 14 tooth front put back on...that will make some difference i'm sure....14/52 seems to be a common and popular set-up so i'll opt for that!
Does changing the gearing alter the accuracy of the speedo readout?
Dave is right in that the blue TTRs with a mechanical speedo drive won't be affected but the digital speedos, as fitted to your Raid, will be affected by any change of gearing as the speedo pick up is situated on the output shaft behind the front sprocket.
Morning Brian, I'm going back to the 14 tooth front sprocket today (with 52 rear) but was wondering if reverting back to a 14 will mean my speedo reading is accurate again as per your post above? Or will it be out of kilter still as i have changed from 44>52 on the rear?
I thought 14 48 was the original gearing? If it was, the speed still won't be right on 14 52. It will probably be about the same amount wrong as a bike on 13 48, because the ratio is similar.
Pete
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Pete Brown
Keighley, West Yorkshire
'94 Yamaha TTR 250 Raid (with Open Enduro headlight, grrr...)
Morning Brian, I'm going back to the 14 tooth front sprocket today (with 52 rear) but was wondering if reverting back to a 14 will mean my speedo reading is accurate again as per your post above? Or will it be out of kilter still as i have changed from 44>52 on the rear?
Many thanks.
The nearer you get to the 14-44 standard gearing then the more accurate the speedo will become. If you can borrow a GPS then you will be able to check out how what the differences are at the key speeds of 30/40/50/70mph.
I had a 14/52 turn up the other day as well, can't wait to try it out, 1st gear in the tight stuff can be a real pain ATM as you have to slip the clutch to get the revs up.
It will also be good to be able to use the next gear up without laboring the motor
And be able to pop the wheel up and over obstacles easily, currently you have to try to compress the suspension to get a bit more lift on the front end
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2004 TTR250 - Highway Dirtbike Hand Guards, 38mm Bar Risers, D606 Front & Rear, Opened up Airbox with Twin Air Filter, Re-jetted Carby, B+B Bash Plate & Frame Guards, DIY 3mm Alloy Tail Tidy, 14/47 Gearing.
Done a few hundred K's on my 14/52 combo, It is much better for everything off road, the downside is that it's like missing out on your 6th gear, interestingly, the fuel consumption is the same, filled up yesterday and put in 7.8 ltr's for 160k's so 20 k's per litre, I guess it's because you don't spend as much time in first gear, second gives you a much more usable speed range now and first is really good for the tight stuff and nasty hills, also I don't go fast on the road, just chug along at the speed limit anyway, 60 to 80kph
Cheers
Steve
-- Edited by BM Steve on Monday 2nd of July 2012 05:23:33 AM
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2004 TTR250 - Highway Dirtbike Hand Guards, 38mm Bar Risers, D606 Front & Rear, Opened up Airbox with Twin Air Filter, Re-jetted Carby, B+B Bash Plate & Frame Guards, DIY 3mm Alloy Tail Tidy, 14/47 Gearing.
Hi All, I'm a long time lurker on the forum, but I just want to chime in with my recent experience:
My blue TTR came with the standard gearing (at least for Australia) of 14/44. I was mostly happy with this except that I found that it couldn't pull strongly in sixth gear. On level open ground she would cruise comfortably at 100+ kph, but any slight steady incline and the speed would drop off until I'd have to drop back to fifth, but it wasn't a big deal.
Well when the chain finally wore out I decided to try a different gearing to get a more usable top gear. After reading this forum and the FAQ I decided to try the 14/52 combination, not really knowing what to expect.
The first surprise was when I did the first test ride around the block. I found myself already in sixth gear just doing about 60kph. Following on from this I found that with this combination the comfortable cruising speed was only around 85kph. She would easily go faster than this but was to "vibie" for extended cruising. I didn't try to see what the top speed was.
The second surprise was on the trails. Much more usable power, climbs like a mountain goat, and very forgiving of incorrect gear selection. Amazingly good.
But for me, where I like to get out and explore some of the open dirt and tarmac road areas as well, I found the low top speed to limited. So after just one weekend's riding I have gotten a new 48 tooth rear to replace the 52, splitting the difference between 44 and 52.
I have only done a commute to work this morning to test out the 48, but so far for me it seems just right. Easily cursing at 100 kph with plenty of throttle to spare.
I'll keep the 52 in case I enter some rallies or track days in the future.
One other tip: If your not sure, go for the bigger rear sprocket first. I had to take a link out of the chain going from the 52 to 48, there is not enough adjustment to have a single chain do both. Its much easier to remove links than add them.
-- Edited by Phil on Tuesday 3rd of July 2012 04:02:59 AM
I am currently running a 13-44 set up, this is good but i feel it can be improved, in the lanes a am constantly in 1st and only going to second when there is a good straight :/ on the roads i can get 70+mph all day. Dan
-- Edited by dan-reeves on Tuesday 3rd of July 2012 05:54:21 PM
Had to go check my bike (since I haven't had it very long) to see what it has, as I assumed it is mostly stock. After counting twice, it seems I have the 13/52 combo.
Doesn't really matter, but does anyone know what the North American spec was & could this be original?
A few times so far, I have found myself going for another gear on the pavement, only to find I was already in 6th, so maybe a 14-tooth front might be a good thing.
I need a new chain soon so it would be a good time to change things around.
I am currently running a 13-44 set up, this is good but i feel it can be improved, in the lanes a am constantly in 1st and only going to second when there is a good straight :/ on the roads i can get 70+mph all day. Dan
14/52 or 13/48 are good ratios for Devon lanes and back roads
It all depends how worn the chain block is in the guide. If the guide has to be moved down a tad then it is relatively straight forward to elongate the mounting holes with a file.
with the 14-52 set up, do you need to move anything? Not too sure if i read somewhere you had to lower the chain block? Thanks, Dan
Yes, like Brian said, the chain guide needs to be lowered a little. Done just by filing the mounting hole on the swing arm. Easy job with a round file.
Also, the after market rear sprockets seem to all have counter-sunk holes for the bolts, whilst the OEM ones aren't. So when you buy the sprockets don't forget to buy six counter-sunk sprocket bolts.
Also, the after market rear sprockets seem to all have counter-sunk holes for the bolts, whilst the OEM ones aren't. So when you buy the sprockets don't forget to buy six counter-sunk sprocket bolts.
Although I prefer to use counter sunk bolts, I usually just turn the sprocket over so that the counter sunk side of the bolt holes in the sprocket are against the hub which allows you to use the standard sprocket bolts.
Dan. The 13/48 will give you a ratio of 3.69:1 and the 13/44 will give you a ratio of 3.38:1
This compares with a standard set up of 14/44 which gives a ratio of 3.14 and a 14/52 which gives a ratio of 3.71
Not a big difference between the 14/44 ratio and the 14/52 ratio but, boy does it make a difference to the climbing ability of the bike. I have a steep rocky hill to climb every day on my way to work. My old Raid was running 13/49 and would pull up the slope fine in 1st with plenty of power to spare. On my new TTR with a 14/44 set up it was a struggle to get up, so much that I have had to use the Raid for the last few days.
That nice man Brian has sent me a 14/52 which I am fitting this weekend.
So on Monday we will see!
BTW going for a 14 tooth instead of the 13 because I had problems with the 13 tooth wearing quickly as the picture shows, but it was still driving (just)
Presumably Mr Yamaha's top bike designers came up with the most effifcient all round ratio when designing the TTR, 14:44 for what is a trail bike - road work with a bit of trail riding, rough tracks etc? I personally only ever use my TTR for green laning which is mainly in the lakes and North Yorkshire and involves some very steep rocky climbs, I therefore use the 14:52 gearing which is awsome for this type of riding. If I was using it for say commuting and the odd rough track then I would probably go back to the original Mr Yamaha gearing of 14:44.
I'm a newbie, in the sense that I have: - just bought a TTR250 (having carefully researched the optimum bike - with soft suspension - for an old fart like me with a bad back), - just registered for this excellent forum, - and haven't ridden off road since I was a teenager; I bought the TTR to go green laning with my sons, who are 10 and 8, and have respectively PW80 and PW50 trail bikes. The first thing I found was that the bike was too tall for me. I have a 29 inch inside leg and could ride it, but only just, and was barely touching the ground with both feet on tip toes. I bought a Koulalink lowering kit, and hey presto, 2 inches has made a huge difference. The next thing I noticed was that it was rather sadly lacking in oomph, running on a 14/44 (I think) combo; so I bought a 13/52 combination sprocket set with a new chain, hoping that the chain would fit into the guide (it does, but I can see that it needs to be lowered and have noted the advice above about enlarging the mounting holes in order to do so). AND BOY WHAT A DIFFERENCE. The bike is absolutely transformed, I rolled out of the Yamaha service centre and banked onto the main road winding on the gas, and it put a BIG smile on my face! Having had some very powerful road bikes over the years, I had initially been a bit concerned that it would leave me without enough to smile about, albeit in the name of a good cause - i.e. leading my sons, and looking after them, but now I'm thinking: "how about some wheelies..." If you find the TTR a bit underpowered, don't hesitate. Sure you lose top end speed, but if you you want more top end speed either don't fir the 13/52 sprockets or buy a bike with longer legs. If you like acceleration, just do it.
As initial poster on this thread i wanted to update you on where i'm at now with sprockets etc....having run 14/44, 13/52 and latterly 14/52 for a good period of time and loved it, i recently decided to try another option and have gone for 14/48. I'm not sure if anyone else has run that on here before?
The reason i changed was that in Herts/Beds/Bucks there is quite a lot of tarmac to link up the lanes, i was finding that i was 'stressing' the engine on the road sections just to do circa 55mph....off road it was very manageable and suited the type of riding i was doing.
I've opted for the 14/48 set up now and having been out on it i am very impressed, its not lost any of it's acceleration but has given me a much more comfortable 5th & 6th gear for the odd bits of tarmac work.... As you can see i've tried quite a few different set-ups and this is the best one i've tried so far and gives me everything i need for the type of riding i do....
Flat face outwards, against the lock tab and nut. Stepped face inwards. If you have a case saver you will see the teeth align with it when the sprocket is on right.
Welcome to the forum!
-- Edited by mossproof on Friday 24th of December 2021 11:21:11 AM