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RE: Oh no - not another refurb by Brian!! Yep - this one is a 2005 official UK import.
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Mogwai wrote:

I tend to shy away from bike electrics but i guess that having a decent selection of connectors, terminals and tools for the job, make it a bit less daunting ?


I am lucky having some old wiring looms to look at for reference and take connectors and wires from.

On top of that I have managed to build up a stock of the "right" connector blocks and terminals but that was really a case of trial and error and I made quite a few "wrong" buys before I got what I needed no

Having a decent soldering iron, crimpers and a good selection of shrink wrap in addition to the terminals and block connectors certainly helps.

Brian



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Footpegs
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Very little progress today as Mrs TTR put me on pre-autumn gardening duties no

All I managed to do was sort out the footpegs, rear brake lever and gear lever and fit them. The RH footpeg took ages to fit as, unusually for my powder coater, the frame holes had been left open and had a slight coating. Typical that I have lent that particular thread cleaner to my brother and not much else does the job cry

Anyway, on the positive side, that's a few more pieces out of the parts boxes and on the TTR biggrin

footpegs 1.jpg

footpegs 2.jpg

 

Tail tidy, front sprocket and chain next.

Brian



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Oh no - not another refurb by Brian!! Yep - this one is a 2005 official UK import.
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Two days in a row the garden seems to have been prioritised over my TTR refurb no

However, I managed to sneak an hour off to fit the tail tidy and wire up the number plate light biggrin

I used one our Totally TTRs stainless steel tail tidies. Nice and simple to fit. It bolts straight onto the same three frame tabs as the original .

Tail tidy and number plate light 001.jpg

 

The tail tidies are now pre-drilled for our after-market number plate light which now bolts straight in.

Tail tidy and number plate light 003.jpg

 

The wires on the light unit need to be extended to meet the bullet connectors on the loom.

Spot my deliberate mistake below:

Tail tidy and number plate light 004.jpg

 

I think all the spade work had fuddled my brain coz I did an excellent job of extending the number plate light wires to plug into.........  the indicator bullet connectors disbelief

I couldn't resist and tried the indicators and, yes, the number plate light flashed nicely thank you very much hmm

Didn't take long to correct matters as by this time I had all the tools out. I soldered and heat shrunk a couple of wires to meet the double connectors by the airbox and used the correct "Japanese" male bullet connectors that plugged straight in. The number plate light uses the double blue and black wired connectors on the loom which will be shared by the tail light. The single yellow connector is for the brake light.

Tail tidy and number plate light 007.jpg

 

Pleased to say the number plate light worked and didn't flash this time wink

Tail tidy and number plate light 008.jpg

 

All that remained was to drill and fit the new number plate and that's another box ticked biggrin

Tail tidy and number plate light 009.jpg

 

Sorting out the mudguard and tail/brake light unit next - or the chain and sprockets.....

Brian



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Brian - In your haste don't forget the tax disc holder 

Martyn



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Cubber wrote:

Brian - In your haste don't forget the tax disc holder 

Martyn


biggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrin

Tax disc stuck on wall - just doesn't seem right to bin it confuse



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I am using 14/48 sprockets on the TTR so the chain had to be cut back to 108 links. To see how to do this go here - no point in me repeating the process. 

Also fitted a new chain guard.

Chain and sprockets.jpg

 

The MT43 is within 5mm of the swing arm with the adjusters just one click below 7 but I think the clearance will increase as the new chain relaxes into the sprockets.

MT43 clearance.jpg

 

I have also finished the front end by fitting the headlight with new surround and some nice Polisport handguards.

Headlight and handguards.jpg

 

Started work on the rear mudguard and tail/number plate light so hope to get that finished and fitted soon.

Brian



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Interesting that you needed 110 links. I've got 110 links on the chain I've had on my 14/52 combination that gave me almost no clearance with a new MT43. I've just fitted a new wheel with a 48 tooth sprocket on and using the same chain I couldn't adjust enough on the snail cams to get sufficient tension. I could hook out two links on the wear sprocket to simulate a shorter chain and set the adjusters to 6 and get correct tension with about 10mm clearance. So I've ordered a 108 link chain. I'm now worried that the new unstretched chain is going to be too short, but I know that 110 links and a bit of use/stretch is too long! Sprockets are not hooked so the chain can't be that worn. Will have to see what happens when the new chain arrives. Maybe it'll be advertised on here soon if it's too short, or I may need to get a smaller sprocket set.

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Looking really good Brian!

You really do these jobs well!



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Simon - sorry I got it wrong disbelief  I have just been out and recounted and my chain is 108 links so you can relax biggrin

Mike - thanks for the compliment wink

Only a bit of gardening today so was able to spend some more time on the project. Not much to show for it as everything I did seemed to have a glitch of some description.

I managed to prepare and fit the rear mudguard and tail/brake light and fit the decals plus cleaned up the header pipe (not to Jason's standard!) and fitted it along with the exhaust guard and silencer.

Rear mudguard and exhaust 001.jpg

Rear mudguard and exhaust 002.jpg

The nuts holding the tail light to the mudguard were seized and I only got two of the three to undo properly. The third bolt broke loose inside the tail light housing where it is supposed to be held in place buy its serrated edge. I had to Dremel the nut off and then Araldite an undamaged bolt from a spare light unit back in. 

I bolted the unit in place and wired it in. The brake light worked fine but the tail light didn't work. I checked the bulb and the brake filament was broken. Unfortunately the bulb wasn't the standard one and the glass globe quite a bit smaller. No way could I get the bulb out so I ended up swapping out the bulb fitting and wiring to replace it from the spare unit. Surprising how these little challenges can swallow so much time cry

If all well then I need to fit the front sprocket guard, a pair of rear indicators tomorrow and sort out the petrol tank, seat and side panels. Once that is done I reckon the TTR should be ready for a test drive smile

Brian

 



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Pleased to hear that you miscounted, I couldn't imagine that my chain could be that stretched or that there could be any variability in the length of the swingarm.

I'll add your working combination to my table in my other thread.

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Fitting Motrax indicators
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Today was indicator day! Aim was simple - to fit a pair of Motrax MicroFairing indicators. I tend to destroy the sticky outy indicators with my boots getting on and off but the flush indicators escape the punishment smile

Indicators 011.jpg

 

As seems to have been the case recently the aim might be simple but the execution gets complicated! I started off with one pair of indicators but broke the fixing tab off one of the lenses so had to start again with a new pair disbelief

So please excuse the change in indicators part way through the sequence!

The indicators are "sided" so check where the drain holes are to make sure they face down when fitted. Choose the indicator you are going to fit first and put the other out of the way so you can't make a mistake!

Indicators 006.jpg

 

Offer up the indicator to the mudguard and mark where the wires are so that the hole for the wires can be drilled in the right place.

Indicators 003.jpg

 

Because the wires coming out of the indicator are quite widely spaced, I elongate the hole so that the indicator will fit flush and not be held off the mudguard by the wires.

Indicators 004.jpg

 

Chop the bullet connectors off the indicator wires as they are too small for the TTR connectors and check the indicator will sit flush to the mudguard. You may have to open out the hole in the mudguard to get a good fit.

The indicators attach by some very sticky double sided sticky pads. I wipe the mudguard and back of the indicator with clutch cleaner to get the best "stick" and then fix the pad to the indicator first. The pad needed a bit of trimming on the Mark 1 indicators as below but the Mark 2 versions were OK.

Indicators 007.jpg

 

Push the indicator hard against the mudguard to get a good fix. I pressed too hard and broke the lens on the Mark 1 disbelief

Indicators 008.jpg

 

That's the first part of the job done. Wiring next. You need 4 Japanese female bullet connectors:

Indicators 015.jpg

Indicators 016.jpg

 

Connect the wires and you are ready to test them.

Indicators 012.jpg

Indicators 014.jpg

Indicators 013.jpg

 

And, yes, mine worked so job done biggrinbiggrin

Indicators 029.jpg

 

I think I took about 15 pics before I managed to catch the flasher working confuse

I hope that may help someone.

Brian

 

 



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Oh no - not another refurb by Brian!! Yep - this one is a 2005 official UK import.
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OK - petrol tank time!

The tank is actually in very good shape and I probably could have used some of the smaller and cheaper D&D tank decals but, having started to use an Enjoy Mfg decal kit on the rear mudguard, I am kinda bound in to them for this project.

I hadn't prepared properly and there was still petrol in the tank so that had to be drained. I then power washed the tank using lots of TFR to get rid of any surface grease and petrol deposits.

The nude tank is ready to clothe once it's dried out and "breathed" a tad - so time for a cuppa biggrin

Tank 001.jpg

 

These are the tank decals I am using.

Tank 002.jpg

 

The decals are a better fit than the very first set I used on my "modernising" project but still need trimming as the bottom section that tucks under the tank is susceptible to lifting off. Also a small section at the edge needs trimming for a perfect(ish) fit as you can see in the pic below where I have put my patterns over the new decals.

Tank 003.jpg

 

The backing on the decals is very shiny and difficult to draw on even using a permanent marker like a Sharpie. The pic below shows the marked section to be cut off. You need to use a good pair of scissors to keep a clean edge on the decal.

Tank 004.jpg

 

I then gave the tank a quick rub down with dry 400 grit paper just to make sure there were no high spots or "pimples" that might show through the decal. I then wipe over with clutch & brake cleaner, to make sure the tank is absolutely grease free, and then spray it with some very diluted washing up liquid which gives plenty of time to move the decal around until its properly positioned.

Tank 006.jpg

 

If you are nervous about applying the decal then do it a bit of a time by just peeling off enough of the backing to allow a good first fix and then gradually pull back the paper pressing down as you go.

Tank 007.jpg

 

There is a sharp corner at the bottom rear of the RH side of the tank and its not possible to seat the decal properly so I just cut out a small V shape so it will sit flat.

Tank 009.jpg

 

It is then a case of carefully applying pressure to squeeze out the water and permanently fix the decal. Use a very clean cloth and a hot air gun for best effect.

And finally it should look like this:

Tank 010.jpg

 

No secret system - just be methodical and take your time.

Tank 011.jpg

Tank 012.jpg

Job done biggrin

Maybe sort the seat and side panels out next.

Brian

 



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I have started on the side panels. A good clean with TFR and the power washer first. Followed by a wet rub down first with 360 grit followed by 400 grit paper.

I then shine up the dullness with the hot air gun which also gets out most of the white "bruise" marks.

In keeping with the other decals I am using the Enjoy Mfg ones which cover nearly all the panel so are a good remedy for anyone with badly scratched or damaged panels.

Here is the LH panel ready to go with both decals.

Seat and panels 001.jpg

I use the same technique as on the tank but less water as there are no slits to let it escape as on the tank decals so any surplus has to be carefully and patiently squeezed out.

Here is the finished LH panel fitted. 

Seat and panels 002.jpg

 

I am not sure about the black seat. They look great on the white OEs but I think I will try a plain blue or blue/black one. Anyone have views on this?

Brian



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Black seat looks the kippers tits squire.

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Being a stalwart of mainly Brit. bikes I must agree with Mogwai.

BUT - I don't particularly like kippers. bleh

to a black seat.  wink

Martyn



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Kippers...breakfast of champions. With the added bonus of them repeating on you ALL day.

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Can't believe I have finished the project!  Here it is and I must say that the black seat is growing on me - just seems wrong somehow coz blue TTRs always have blue seats confuse

I got a new genuine Yamaha seat coming tomorrow I hope so will try it on and post up another pic then. Maybe I could run a poll wink

Finished 001.jpg



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Thats looks very smart, I dare not post a picture of my old OE it would make you cringe, goes well though.

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Looks lovely. I see you've fitted a little inline filter in the fuel line is that something you've recently started doing, and do you find it catches much?

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Thanks Simon - I am very pleased with it.

No, the inline filter was fitted by a previous owner. I am not a fan. It means you have four joints in the fuel line and the cheaper plastic filters are susceptible to the inlet/outlet pipes snapping off. Also, it looks untidy so I will probably swap it out for a plain pipe wink

Brian



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Still waiting for the new blue seat no

Anyways up, I took the TTR for a test run and found three small issues.

First was an oil leak which, because the crankcases are clean and the oil is new (and almost transparent) was difficult to pinpoint. The only thing that I had disturbed on the engine since it last run was the oil feed pipe so I suspected a leak at one of the banjo bolts. So I doused the area in talc and ran the engine until I could see the leak and, sure enough, it was from the smallest of the three banjo bolts.  See here. After investigation, it seems that the new copper washers I had fitted had the right OD and ID but were thinner than the originals which meant the bolt was bottoming out before tightening fully on the washers. Easily solved by getting a pair of original washers, annealing them and fitting them.

Second issue was the infamous solenoid click with no turning of the starter without a persistent pressing of the starter button! Whilst I had the oil line off, I took the opportunity of taking out the starter and checking the brushes. It all looked like new inside so I re-assembled and re-fitted it. Will check it out tomorrow. It is a pain to have to remove the timing chain tensioner to get enough room to remove the starter so I tried a different method and am pleased to report it worked a treat - see here.

Third issue was a sort of tinkling rattle from the LH side which didn't go away when pulling in the clutch. I have just replaced the 13T sprocket with a 14T one and suspected that the chain was catching the sprocket cover.  Sure enough, there is a small patch of fresh shiny metal on the top rear of the cover so I have left it off and will road test the TTR tomorrow but am confident (famous last words!) that I have found the source of the noise. I have heard of that happening on new TTRs but it's a first for me.

That's it for today though.

Brian



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I managed a short road test today between the showers!

The oil leak seems to be cured but I have parked the TTR over some clean newspaper to be sure.

The starter engaged on first press of the starter button so maybe my strip down, cleaning of the commutator and pushing the brushes back and forth against their springs to check them did something. Time will tell.

I had removed the sprocket cover and I didn't get any noises from the LH side of the engine so am pretty sure that the cover was the culprit. See the rub marks on it from the chain in the pic below. Not sure whether to cut a small section out or cut and bend a section upwards.

Sprocket cover.jpg

So, just the sprocket cover to modify and a bit more road testing to do.

Brian



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Blue seat for me. Not keen on a black one.

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Thanks Paul - I think that's 2:1 for the black so far. The blue seats still haven't arrived so I can't put up comparison pics yet.

Meanwhile, in the workshop, I am stripping down a spare engine to check the barrel and piston for wear and noticed the chain guard.

Sprocket cover 1.jpg

Sprocket cover 2.jpg

 

So it looks like a bit of a design fault if the sprocket cover can't cope with a 14T sprocket! I expect the previous owner puzzled over what was making the noise.......

 



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I ground the sprocket cover back where the chain had been hitting, radiused the edges and resprayed it.

Sprocket cover ground back and radiused.jpg

 

I noticed that the chain roller is quite grooved which would allow the chain to ride a bit higher on the over run which might have contributed to the chain interfacing with the sprocket cover confuse

I will replace it anyway - just in case.

The white bits are grease thrown off the new chain. 

Chain roller - worn.jpg

 

The blue seat still hasn't arrived. Might have to put a new blue seat cover on a spare seat. They look better than the Yam originals anyway wink

Brian

 

 



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Fantastic, i enjoyed reading through all that. Gives me some idea about stripping mine to get the frame powder coated.

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Beautiful job Brian, very honest renovation we learn from your few mistakes, not everyone would admit to,well done mate! Very interested in the decal application as I'm going to do this job soon.
Great finished project!

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Hi TTR Fan

just read this thread and really enjoyed it

thanks for all the tips and advice

I'll feel a lot more confident at rebuilding my 1994 TTR

regards Mike



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Fantastic restoration!! Excellent work and attention to detail!! Inspiring during my mini resto!! Thanks Brian!

Chris

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The bike doesn't just look fancy, it smells fancy too with that bit of hairspray magic happening!!  wink  Might have a few other bikes chasing it's tail.  biggrin

Amazing work, as always.



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