My friends ride WR 250's and CR 250x's. When we're scooting down a trail and come to a puddle, they can hit the throttle, lift the front, and skate over it without getting soaked. My TTR can't, and I always just have to plow through them. I just dropped down to a 12 tooth sprocket. It does give me more lift in 1st, but still won't do it while running 2nd or 3rd. I'm in the middle of the pipe/air box/jetting mod right now, installing a FMF Q4. Will that give me the extra boost I need? Or will the TTR never have that kind of torque?
Could this also be an issue of technique? Is this a clutch trick?
Some will claim that they can lift it 1st, 2nd, and 3rd but I highly doubt they are being honest. After fully modifying my TTR250 it still only lifts in 1st and 2nd with a bit of help. It keeps up with 450's and beats them top end but all with the front wheel on the ground unfortunately.
If you want wheel lifting power the TTR250 is not the bike for you. I would suggest a WR or YZ etc. for that kinda fun.
Jarrah
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2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
Mine with a 263 kit, uncorked with standard pipe and 14/52 gearing, will lift off the throttle in first, come up with some persuasion in second and if I bounce really hard and jerk back and dump the clutch while stood up and throwing my weight back will pull third up, but no way will it keep it there, and if there is not enough traction, it won't do it, just sort of jerk the front a bit.
Adam
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Adam. 1993 Open Enduro: 14/48 Gearing, Uncorked, Twin-Air Filter, Snorkel Removed, 263cc Piston, Ported and Polished Head, Shorty Header, DG-O Silencer(Loudener!), 140 Mikuni Main, Standard Pilot, Bottom Needle Clip (Still A Touch Lean)
My bike lifts in 3rd gear no problem, there again it is a V twin 1000. The TTR has no chance of lifting in 3rd though, tbh it struggles to lift in 1st. Maybe it's all the weight it's lugging around
mine has had a lot of weight stripped off it and lifts enough to get over puddles etc easy keeps up with my mates ktm 250 f. I am not good with wheelies but the guy I bought it off wanted to show me what it could do and was doing third gear wheelies up and down the street. ( I mean proper wheelies stood right up for hundred yards or so)
it also has a few power mods airbox exhaust etc.
as I say im not a wheelie man but it will lift off power in first and off clutch in second if you lean back it will stand up straight no probs. if your bobbing along in third or fourth load the forks then pull back and open the throttle it easily lifts enough to clear a large puddle
I'm no pro, but I can wheelie my ttr in 3rd, but it does take some pulling and weight shifting. I never bother with unloading the clutch though. I have it down pretty good, but it's probably just from all my years in 3 wheeler wheelies that got me used to wheelying underpowered bikes lol. I personally like to pull up in 2nd gear though and shift into 3rd and sometimes 4th throughout a flat straight stretch wheelie.
Wrf's are where it's at though if u wanna bang wheelies all day. The effort I have to use to pull wheelies in 2nd gear on my ttr would be equivalent to 4th gear wheelies on my old wr250f. I'm in the process of trying to pick up a wrf as we speak (type)
I'm with Jarrah on this, in fact reading his mod list, it's the same as mine except I have a DG-O pipe instead and 14/52 gearing. Mine will pull third without too much issue. I nearly bought a WRF but somehow everything went weird and I ended up with Vicky, which is perfectly fine by me, she suits me just fine.
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Adam. 1993 Open Enduro: 14/48 Gearing, Uncorked, Twin-Air Filter, Snorkel Removed, 263cc Piston, Ported and Polished Head, Shorty Header, DG-O Silencer(Loudener!), 140 Mikuni Main, Standard Pilot, Bottom Needle Clip (Still A Touch Lean)
No NOS, but ported and polished. Mikuni jets in 52 and 150, got a hole in the airbox about 3 inches by 2, with chicken mesh and tights over it. The hole was cut out by previous owner, I would have preferred a snorkel and got slightly less oomph. Would like to get the genuine jets though. Will eventually get Brians header. If nothing else, it'll match the shiny silencer.
EDIT: Just remembered, I smashed the original light and have a lightweight POlisport one fitted, may not make much of a difference, but it seems lighter than OEM and less weight on the front, may help with wheel lifting.
-- Edited by Fladdem on Thursday 22nd of May 2014 08:31:25 PM
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Adam. 1993 Open Enduro: 14/48 Gearing, Uncorked, Twin-Air Filter, Snorkel Removed, 263cc Piston, Ported and Polished Head, Shorty Header, DG-O Silencer(Loudener!), 140 Mikuni Main, Standard Pilot, Bottom Needle Clip (Still A Touch Lean)
No NOS, but ported and polished. Mikuni jets in 52 and 150, got a hole in the airbox about 3 inches by 2, with chicken mesh and tights over it. The hole was cut out by previous owner, I would have preferred a snorkel and got slightly less oomph. Would like to get the genuine jets though. Will eventually get Brians header. If nothing else, it'll match the shiny silencer.
-- Edited by Fladdem on Thursday 22nd of May 2014 08:31:25 PM
I would have thought that a Mikuni #52 and #150 would be too rich as they are supposed to be 10 sizes larger than Genuine Teikei. If it works it works I guess though.
I found that adding the larger snorkel actually increased performance, I think it has to do with the YEIS, see more info HERE.
I have the US headlight with a Super White Xenon 35W bulb, it adds practically no weight at all-
Sounds like your bike has updated quite a bit, bet it goes much better with the porting.
Jarrah
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2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
I couldn't really tell how much it did on it's own. I did a lot all at once. Over-bore, clutch, P&P, adjusted throttle stop, twin-air filter, changed gearing. But, she was a different animal when I put her back together and ran her in. She's had a fair bit of work doing to her, I hate to say it, because I may be poo-pooed but I think she accelerates at a similar rate to a mates old RMZ250 set-up for endure, just a different sort of ride, you had to have his singing a bit more, whereas mine can just go up the gears faster. It's hard to describe, but I think the gear ratios allow for faster speeds in each gear so you can sort of mash up the box a bit more. I.E. when he was in 2nd at 10,000RPM, I may be in 3rd at 7,500RPM.
I didn't think the light would be that heavy, holding the remains of my Open Enduro light and the new one didn't seem to be too different. I was mostly just wondering out loud.
I reckon you may be right with the snorkel. Would smooth air flow perhaps creating less turbulence? I imagine my tights and chicken wire isn't a very smooth flowing method. I only did that to stop larger clumps of dirt or anything getting in there.
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Adam. 1993 Open Enduro: 14/48 Gearing, Uncorked, Twin-Air Filter, Snorkel Removed, 263cc Piston, Ported and Polished Head, Shorty Header, DG-O Silencer(Loudener!), 140 Mikuni Main, Standard Pilot, Bottom Needle Clip (Still A Touch Lean)
Yeah man, i ride a ttr250r on the road you can lift the front 1st,2nd n 3rd.
Just need to be standing load up the suspension,
Slip the clutch full rev n pop n pull like a mofo then catch with the rear
bbarfield wrote:
My friends ride WR 250's and CR 250x's. When we're scooting down a trail and come to a puddle, they can hit the throttle, lift the front, and skate over it without getting soaked. My TTR can't, and I always just have to plow through them. I just dropped down to a 12 tooth sprocket. It does give me more lift in 1st, but still won't do it while running 2nd or 3rd. I'm in the middle of the pipe/air box/jetting mod right now, installing a FMF Q4. Will that give me the extra boost I need? Or will the TTR never have that kind of torque?
Could this also be an issue of technique? Is this a clutch trick?
Pulled fourth the other day on the way home from work! But it was very difficult, pull the clutch in rev her, then rev her again and dump the clutch, while sat on the pillion seat and yanking, I must get a video of it one day...
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Adam. 1993 Open Enduro: 14/48 Gearing, Uncorked, Twin-Air Filter, Snorkel Removed, 263cc Piston, Ported and Polished Head, Shorty Header, DG-O Silencer(Loudener!), 140 Mikuni Main, Standard Pilot, Bottom Needle Clip (Still A Touch Lean)
Here you go, a video from about 18 months ago, I didn't realise my mates were filming. They're in a car, my mate was sat in the back and filming me. We'd gone out for a play during a free period/lunch at college.
Not very impressive, I was still getting the knack. 14/52 gearing, 2mm overbore, DG-O Silencer, slight port and polish, uncorked, hole in airbox lid,n jetted not quite spot on, slightly lea, and high rise bars and some risers, puts my weight further back and higher up. It's all in third gear, second was too twitchy.
-- Edited by Fladdem on Saturday 28th of February 2015 10:53:00 PM
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Adam. 1993 Open Enduro: 14/48 Gearing, Uncorked, Twin-Air Filter, Snorkel Removed, 263cc Piston, Ported and Polished Head, Shorty Header, DG-O Silencer(Loudener!), 140 Mikuni Main, Standard Pilot, Bottom Needle Clip (Still A Touch Lean)
Yes mostly 1st & 2nd gear for me, but I have road gearing. I'd agree with lower gearing and extra ponies maybe third & maybe not a huge problem for those who can sit and balance wheelie (expert level) but even then they might start from 2nd.
And if you are posting wheelies online don't forget to cover your face with the mirror.
It's a bit lame, I was just trying to get some quick footage for a 'family' DVD project we were putting together chrissy 2011. Oops nearly let the clutch out in gear, wait for my kid at the end of the video, cute as!
Just 1st gear. My 2nd gear attempts are a bit better but no footage, soz.
I have another one but the camera quality is terrible. Click the photo.
[Edit] I just took a video snapshot a second early & I'm surprised how vertical I got, puts my later video attempt to shame - my excuse I was in a hurry to create the family DVD.
-- Edited by MrWiretap on Thursday 2nd of March 2017 12:54:15 PM
lifting the front is not a TTRs strong point...
At like 20kph to get the front wheel over that log or rock shelf
with only a few seconds warning...
I have found the only sure way is to slow right down & clutch hop the front....
Powerful bikes wheelie really easy, all you have to do is twist the throttle. If I was savage on the throttle my Husky 450 would lift the front at highway speds.
Now we all know the TTR's aren't exactly powerful so you need some technique to make it all work. And TTR's are heavy on the front end too. My WR250F is lighter on the front wheel than the back wheel unlike the TTR.
Throttle and clutch control, pre loading the suspension to use the rebound energy of the fork springs and shifting weight back on the bike.
I find I can easily loft the front of the TTR sitting down in first and second.
Third I can wheelie but have to be standing to get my weight right back.
With help of ridges, rises, sticks etc can get the wheel up in fourth.
Here is a youtube video on wheelie techniques the blokes at CROSS TRAINING ENDURO TECHNIQUES have put up I reckon is interesting.
If you click on their channel there is hours of time to be lost ;)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=047LMSOH9V0
P.S. LMAO - Pause the video at 1 second and read their disclaimer
-- Edited by Kaos on Saturday 25th of February 2017 11:58:07 PM