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Air-box snorkel modification
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I thought I would share this simple air-box mod with other owners.

 I had previously tried (twice) to cut down the air duct/snorkel to gain performance. Both times I have had the same result. I tried various ways to do this on two different TTR's but had the same result both times. The problem with this is that if the snorkel is cut or shortened it makes the bike run rich.

 Other people have reported success from this method but I am unsure how or why they have benefited from doing this. Anyway, here was my solution to this problem. 

 This was an old cold air intake from an old Ford XF (I think). I trimmed it down to fit and also drilled my air-box hole larger, then used a file to flatten it out. Very simple!

 

This has given me HEAPS more power at both down low and high revs and also stops water entering the air-box. I have to cross water a fair bit in my travels so this was needed to stop this happening.

 

So far I am VERY happy with this set-up and have had no troubles crossing deep water. aww

 

 



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Thanks for sharing,I done the same thing and it cured all my carb problems after upgrading the jets,etc. The hole covers the top area of the air box all except a 10mm margin, also had a mate that moulded a plastic "lip" to stop water entering,works well now.

The original snorkel mods recommended by others just didn't hack it for my bike.

Its odd how some things work for people and the same mods don't for others.



-- Edited by Andy_C on Friday 12th of April 2013 06:26:46 PM

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Interesting stuff - thanks Jarrah and Andy - food for thought!

Out of interest, is the induction noise louder or quiter with the bigger hole on top?

Brian



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It did not make any noticable difference to the inlet, if anything it is quieter with the larger hole.

However, the exhaust becomes quite a bit louder from the larger hole & seems to pick up in revs much quicker.

Thanks Andy for adding your method & findings. It was good to know that someone else came to the same conclusion as I did.

Cheers.

Jarrah



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Hey Jarrah
How much more 'opening' did you make in the top of the box - when compared to the original hole?

Rob


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Raggis45 wrote:

Hey Jarrah
How much more 'opening' did you make in the top of the box - when compared to the original hole?

Rob


 Just a suggestion- don't cut or drill the hole larger until you have a larger snorkel to fit. You should be able to find an old cold air induction pipe from an old wreck.

This was the difference below, as you can see there is A LOT!

008.JPG

 

Jarrah



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The XT660R has a airbox snorkel the same design as the TTR... May even be the same one...
Removeing it from The XTR is worth 1.5/2hp... It's injected so no re-jetting is required..

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TTRfan wrote:

Interesting stuff - thanks Jarrah and Andy - food for thought!

Out of interest, is the induction noise louder or quiter with the bigger hole on top?

Brian


 Just check your seat bolts Brain, as if you site down & your seat comes off you would be eligible to join Exeter choirbiggrin

On my son's and my TTR's have had the snorkels removed by previous owners, only problem is running through deep water, water came onto the air box between the seat and mudguard. So I cut up a plastic container and made a flap to cover the gap (bolting through the seat), I have fitted a piece of scouring pad (obtained from Matadors head of domestic services) over the hole to minimize what can go down the hole (induction noise up a bit), works ok but I like the larger raised adaptor. 



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petenz wrote:

The XT660R has a airbox snorkel the same design as the TTR... May even be the same one...
Removeing it from The XTR is worth 1.5/2hp... It's injected so no re-jetting is required..


 You have got me thinking about my XTR, at present it has a K&N air filter, but if air flow is restricted I assume it won't benefit.

I have run it through deep water, over the wheels - bike was ok



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matador wrote:
petenz wrote:

The XT660R has a airbox snorkel the same design as the TTR... May even be the same one...
Removeing it from The XTR is worth 1.5/2hp... It's injected so no re-jetting is required..


 You have got me thinking about my XTR, at present it has a K&N air filter, but if air flow is restricted I assume it won't benefit.

I have run it through deep water, over the wheels - bike was ok


 I won't go anywhere near a K&N or DNA filter on a dirt bike.... I use Oiled foam as I like to keep fine dust

out of the motor....

Read this ==== >  http://www.dieselbombers.com/chevrolet-gmc-diesel-tech-articles/16611-duramax-air-filter-testing.html

What other mods dose your XTR have ?

Are you on  ?..    http://www.xt660.com/site/node/78

 



-- Edited by petenz on Wednesday 17th of July 2013 06:24:40 AM

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My son had the XTR before me and fitted the K&N, I will read the article later - where can I buy a foam air filter for my XTR?

I haven't spent a lot by some peoples standard, I based the mods on when I built a 500cc BSA Gold Star in trail trim back in 1968 - worked well as a big trailie (there's a picture of it in Aprils 'Trail mag'.

For the XTR I found the front a bit soft so fitted a pair of Honda Transalp 600 springs & 18mm spacer from Hagon. lowered the back by 1" (from Germany 'off the road'), metal pegs. a folding gear lever but extended 1.5", Hi level pipes were too expensive, so I made up a sump guard from a steel shovel ( I got the idea from my Bultaco Matador as the sump guard looked like a shovel), and a mud shield on the front of the frame + engine bars. MTC cans (my son again) I lost one of the baffles a while ago so used the old remaining one on the TTR in a FMF silencer to quieten it down a bit .Renthal bars & hand guards. Rubber fork covers & MX mud guard with rad vents. I run x3 sprockets depending on what I do 13T- goes up most steep Cotswold hills in winter, 14T - trail & road,15T - road. X3 sets of Tyres, all Metz; Karoo (Block tread), Enduro 3 & a new pair of road tyres on order for summer use.

Not much but enough to make it a good but heavy trail bike, will add a bit more later.



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matador wrote:

My son had the XTR before me and fitted the K&N, I will read the article later - where can I buy a foam air filter for my XTR?

I haven't spent a lot by some peoples standard, I based the mods on when I built a 500cc BSA Gold Star in trail trim back in 1968 - worked well as a big trailie (there's a picture of it in Aprils 'Trail mag'.

For the XTR I found the front a bit soft so fitted a pair of Honda Transalp 600 springs & 18mm spacer from Hagon. lowered the back by 1" (from Germany 'off the road'), metal pegs. a folding gear lever but extended 1.5", Hi level pipes were too expensive, so I made up a sump guard from a steel shovel ( I got the idea from my Bultaco Matador as the sump guard looked like a shovel), and a mud shield on the front of the frame + engine bars. MTC cans (my son again) I lost one of the baffles a while ago so used the old remaining one on the TTR in a FMF silencer to quieten it down a bit .Renthal bars & hand guards. Rubber fork covers & MX mud guard with rad vents. I run x3 sprockets depending on what I do 13T- goes up most steep Cotswold hills in winter, 14T - trail & road,15T - road. X3 sets of Tyres, all Metz; Karoo (Block tread), Enduro 3 & a new pair of road tyres on order for summer use.

Not much but enough to make it a good but heavy trail bike, will add a bit more later.


 OTR "Off The Road" have oiled form air filters for the XTR XTX XTZ  660s....

There is also  "Piper Cross" have a oiled form filter also..

my XTR has - Metal Mule high pipe/Ohlins rear shock/ Showa twin chamber USD forks.

Rekluse WR450 EXP clutch/pivot pegs/ 2X fuel injection mods/Gillimoto 22.5L tank.

B&B bash plate/moded to fit Yamaha Tenere engine bars/Rally Raid Daka screen...

 



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Many thanks for the info, I need to do a few mods to the XTR over the winter - just enjoy working on bikes. I'm on XT660.com as    Exeter 71 , from the last time I rode in the Exeter trial = long time ago.

Just looked up the Metal Mule exhaust - interested.

Thanks again.



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Hi Jarrah,

 

(firstly new at this so not sure if it best to message you or post this question so have done both, please disregard whichever you get second)

I am going on a ride involving some deep water crossings and looking to raise my snorkel somehow and came across your great Air-box snorkel modification.

I want to do the same and hope you don't mind me asking a couple of questions.

1) Getting your old one out and enlarging the hole. Did you drill a couple of holes then saw it out or some other method??

2) How did you secure the "cold air intake from an old Ford" to your airbox, glue??

 

Thanks, Michael



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Michael TTR250 wrote:

Hi Jarrah,

 

(firstly new at this so not sure if it best to message you or post this question so have done both, please disregard whichever you get second)

I am going on a ride involving some deep water crossings and looking to raise my snorkel somehow and came across your great Air-box snorkel modification.

I want to do the same and hope you don't mind me asking a couple of questions.

1) Getting your old one out and enlarging the hole. Did you drill a couple of holes then saw it out or some other method??

2) How did you secure the "cold air intake from an old Ford" to your airbox, glue??

 

Thanks, Michael


 To make the hole bigger I used a drill to enlarge it and a rasp to smooth it out (as in picture below).

rasp1.jpg

The Ford cold air induction pipe has ribbed contours on it like the original so no glue was needed (see pic below). It fits just the way the original does. I have not bothered to use silicone to seal it as it already seals perfect.

Enjoy!

Jarrah



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Thanks mate I will visit my local Ford wrecker and get started.

 

Cheers,



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Hi again Jarrah,

Got an old rectangular air intake today from my local ford wrecker (off an EA Falcon, for anyone else thinking of looking for one). Have removed old snorkel and enlarged hole to fit new piece with the help of a drill, hacksaw blade and finally rasp as suggested.

Last question, would it be possible to see a pic of yours side on to see how high I can set the new snorkel to still allow it to breath under the seat (assuming lining up with the black plastic vertical part would be close) but a bit hard to see how much room under seat with it in place.

Thanks again, Cheers   



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If you have a look at the picture above, notice the carb pipes in the right hand side of the picture above? As long as it is not more than 20mm (roughly) above these you should be fine.

Let me know how you go and pictures?

Enjoy!

Jarrah



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OK so as shown in the pics, comparison to original, some silicone used in corners (perhaps I am not as good a craftsman as yourself), clearance from front to rear seat resting points & ruler showing 10-15mm above the pipes so should get enough airflow, hopefully not too much (do they run lean with too much air)??? confuse



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Nice Job! thumbsup.gif

Doing this will lean the mixture slightly, but won't affect it enough to worry as in AU these bikes come with a #147 main jet that is slighltly rich. You may get a bit more response by lowering your jet needle clip position though (depending on elevation etc.). If it runs worst when you lower it just set it back to where it was.

Enjoy!

Jarrah





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Have never adjusted carbies or jet needle will have a poke around this site to see if I can find a beginners guide to it.  I ride in the mountains around Canberra (our elevation is already 575m) up in the mountains it ranges between 700-1200m. As a rule with the lower density of air what do you think, should I aim for slightly richer or leaner mix?

Cheers, Michael



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Is it important to have the right snorkel clearance between the snorkel and seat?


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As the original snorkel has a bend in it my concern on my next big ride that crosses several deep rivers is that there is a low point that would easily allow water to flow into the airbox. As shown in the pics while the top of the modified snorkel is comparative to where the top of the original one sat (just held in front for a demonstration) the water level would have to be 30-50mm higher to flow over the top of the modified one and into the airbox. Well that's the theory anyway. 

In answer to your question I guess too low and it would defeat the purpose, too high and it might not get adequate airflow if hard up against the underside of the seat. 

Cheers, Michael



-- Edited by Michael TTR250 on Saturday 10th of August 2013 01:10:00 AM



-- Edited by Michael TTR250 on Saturday 10th of August 2013 03:46:10 AM

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Thanks Jarrah,

I am trying to think about this logically, and would be really interested in your thoughts. If the density of air is lower with altitude (as most of my riding is) the bike needs more air and accordingly should be set up a little leaner than normal for best performance.

So inadvertently by trying to solve the possible flooding of the air box my bike will get a bit more air (as you pointed out) and run a bit leaner which for my circumstances will be great. confuse

Does that sound right to you?

 

Cheers, Michael

 



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Cheers mate, I am going for a short shake down run tomorrow to make sure all feels good before the big trip away next weekend. I think I will try it as is and see how it feels before adjusting the jet needle clip position.

Thanks again for your idea of the air box mod and advice throughout.

Michael



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If the mixture is lean, the engine will loose performance and if too lean it will get hot at the header and may do damage to piston & rings.

If the mixture is too rich it will be sluggish and may pop in the carb on deceleration. This rich condition over time will lead to back-burning from excessive carbon build-up.

Do a plug reading after riding full throttle for some distance and shutting the engine off before returning to an idle. If it is white or clean you are running lean, if it still has a nice chocalate brown color to it, it is perfect.

When the mixture is perfect- if lower the jet needle position 2~3 settings richer it should become too rich and bog a little after 1/3 throttle. In addition, it may pop in the carb apon deceleration and the engine will loose performance.

Of course, the best mixture is somewhere in between. That said, doing this mod does not change the air-flow all that much and if anything, you may need to lower the jet needle clip position 1~2 settings (if at all). It wouldn't hurt to check if you gain performance from lowering the jet needle position. However, this is not essential and I'll leave that up to you to decide.

Enjoy!

Jarrah



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Michael TTR250 wrote:

Cheers mate, I am going for a short shake down run tomorrow to make sure all feels good before the big trip away next weekend. I think I will try it as is and see how it feels before adjusting the jet needle clip position.

Thanks again for your idea of the air box mod and advice throughout.

Michael


 No problems Michael

Just wondering- did you notice a boost in performance from this mod?

Disclaimer: If you have not done cylinder head porting or upgraded the exhaust etc.. results may vary. wink



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I will have to go to the local scrapyard soon to fine myself a ford snorkel

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Dave - looking at you bio it says you are from New York, you won't have our Australian built EA Falcons there, but it should not matter you are just looking for an old air intake of something from around 1990 that had a carbie (pre fuel injection) that is smaller than the outer dimensions of the top of your air box. I ended up cutting the one I got in half so if you really get stuck and are happy to pay the postage will send you the other half of mine for nothing. But I'm sure you should be able to find something of some make of vehicle that will fit.

 

Jarrah - In answer to your question f..king heaps more power, it seemed to pick up revs and torque much earlier down low, hard to explain but it didn't seem to get as bogged down at low speed on steep inclines as it has in the past. It might just be as you said they run a bit rich here and add in my altitude and it just really need that bit more air to run as it should. Don't know or care just f..king love it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Thanks heaps mate. Cheers, Michael



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Michael TTR250 wrote:

 

Jarrah - In answer to your question f..king heaps more power, it seemed to pick up revs and torque much earlier down low, hard to explain but it didn't seem to get as bogged down at low speed on steep inclines as it has in the past. It might just be as you said they run a bit rich here and add in my altitude and it just really need that bit more air to run as it should. Don't know or care just f..king love it!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Thanks heaps mate. Cheers, Michael


 No problems Michael

Yes, standard they do run rich in AU and also the fact that the TTR250 has very restrictive air-flow. In addition to the snorkel being too small, the cylinder head ports (exhaust/intake) are not matched. The intake is much smaller than the exhaust and both have casting imperfections. no If you want a REAL upgrade start there by porting and polishing the ports, making sure that the intake is left rough-cut and polishing the exhaust port. Also adding a GYT-R air filter and exhaust upgrade helps heaps! Just remember to re-jet and adjust the jet needle clip position accordingly.

Glad you liked it!

Jarrah



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bugger, I threw away a split intake hose of my Hillux Ute a couple of months ago  furious



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Fear not mate, if you don't do many deep water crossing you will be right with out the intake/snorkel just cut the big hole so it breathes properly! I have since pulled my snorkel out and even done deep crossings then pulled the site tube at the bottom of the airbox to let any water drain then put the tube back in and charge on.

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When ever do you ride a bike thought water deep enough to get in the top
of the air box... I know yers prob like to think yous will..but really..
And if you drop it in a river deep enough.. water going to get in snorkle or no snorkle...

I cut the top out of my air box and re-jetted..

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Can anyone suggest why trimming the original snorkel results in running richer? Can't really understand it, confuse although I'm happy to accept it from those that have done it.

Jarrah does your snorkel protrude into the airbox like the original, or stop flush with the top?

Simon.



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petenz wrote:

When ever do you ride a bike thought water deep enough to get in the top
of the air box... I know yers prob like to think yous will..but really..


I wouldn't like to ride the Strata Florida without a snorkel on the TTR wink 

P2260054.JPG



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I need to see another 20 pics to be half convinced it's the norm...

 

I just done the DB1K on the week end... 1000km of back roads tracks/trails in 2 days

prob done near 20 river crossings... deepest was about top of engine case... that would

be normal... was on the XT660R



-- Edited by petenz on Tuesday 4th of March 2014 04:54:55 AM

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mossproof wrote:

Can anyone suggest why trimming the original snorkel results in running richer? Can't really understand it, confuse although I'm happy to accept it from those that have done it.

Jarrah does your snorkel protrude into the airbox like the original, or stop flush with the top?

Simon.


I cannot comment on why cutting the snorkel causes a rich condition, if I did it would be speculation. All I can say is that I have tried it twice with various methods and  it does!

I made the larger snorkel protrude into the air-box about 140mm, this was so it was parallel with the filter. Not sure if it helped but it was a definite improvement to say the least.

Jarrah

 

 

 



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Surely the internet is the home of speculation?biggrin  

I've been toying with the idea of putting a perspex side on the filter box and using a smoke pellet to see how the air flows, but at the moment I haven't got an idle hour or three!

Thanks for the reply,

Simon.



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Hey Michael TTR250 can share a pic of your intake with the cut out and without the snorkel? I tend to ride higher drier elevations and looking to extend the power band, the cut out idea is interesting, snorkel isn't a big deal for me.

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No problem. As you will see from the pic, the inside of my air box looks a darker colour, that's because after each air filter clean and re oil (very dusty where I ride) I spray some filter oil on the inside of the airbox which helps trap some of the dust on the way in reducing the amount that gets dumped directly onto the filter (I then just wipe it and the crap out at the same time as cleaning the filter).

I couldn't give you figures on how much extra power I have with this bigger opening but with it and the secondhand Staintune exhaust I put on the bike is noticeably more powerful. I do a lot of tight steep hill climb stuff so want the grunt down low so run a 13 tooth on the front and 49 on the rear but even with this low gearing it can still do 80-90kph on flat trails.

Cheers, Michael

WP_20140308_002.jpg

WP_20140308_003.jpg



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Here's mine, did it last night, it's around twice the size of the original opening, I'm not going to use a snorkle.

But I will glue a lip of high density sponge rubber around the edge around 20mm high, I have a 1cm lip at the narrowest point.

I used a 32mm hole saw to drill the corners and then just trimmed it out with a sharp wood chisel and a course square file to smooth it off.

IMG_3808_small.JPG?lgfp=3000



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Nice job! The hole saw certainly gives a better look in the corners that my bodgy hack job.

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Thanks, It took longer than I expected to do it but didn't really care, I had some excellent Dub blasting out of the speakers while I tinkered with various things on the bike

Have A good one

 

 



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Awesome, thanks guys, I ride in dust more than mud too, this is very cool. Yes I

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Only reason I put the lip on mine is I go through a few creeks that are a bit on the deep side 

I ride with an air filtration engineer he doesn't see a need for the snorkel Other than maybe noise reduction .

In the end it's just a need for a bigger opening .

IMAG1015.jpg



-- Edited by ttboof on Saturday 8th of March 2014 05:45:57 AM

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ttboof wrote:

Only reason I put the lip on mine is I go through a few creeks that are a bit on the deep side 

I ride with an air filtration engineer he doesn't see a need for the snorkel Other than maybe noise reduction .

In the end it's just a need for a bigger opening .

IMAG1015.jpg



-- Edited by ttboof on Saturday 8th of March 2014 05:45:57 AM


 That's a downpipe spout isn't it, Why didn't I think of that, I have a couple floating around for sure

Thanks wink



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2004 TTR250 - Highway Dirtbike Hand Guards, 38mm Bar Risers, D606 Front & Rear, Opened up Airbox with Twin Air Filter, Re-jetted Carby, B+B Bash Plate & Frame Guards, DIY 3mm Alloy Tail Tidy, 14/47 Gearing.

 



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Thought exactly the same thing when I saw it. Seems so obvious when someone else does it first. Great idea!!!!!!!!!

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yep its a down pipe fitting .love finding uses for stuff around the shed IMAG0996.jpg



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So what are you down under dudes using for jets? (those who have cut out the snorkel or installed bigger snorkel, that is) You probably posted that somewhere but I can't find it. 150/52? (that's yours Jarrah?) I assume I'm stock at 137/52 but I haven't got that far, that's just what my manual says but maybe it comes stock with something different in the US (I'm on a 2003 sold in the US). And you're just using regular gas I assume?

Anyone in the US make this modification?

You have to cut out the snorkel eh? no other way to remove?

Thanks for the tips on needle positions. I don't think I'll get serious about this till I get quite a few more miles on the bike but my first impression of the bike is I'd like some more punch. Maybe its the weight (the bike, not me, of course :).

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I'm running standard main and needle posit. With one size up on the pilot. 

Runs great 



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