A forum for owners of Yamaha TTR250 trail and enduro bikes!

TTRfan · Super Guru

Refurbishing a 2006 TTR250

TTRfan · Super Guru

I managed to strip the frame down completely and its not a long process. What takes the time is finding a way to keep all the nuts and bolts with their relevant part!

The pics below were taken as I went along so that I have a visual aid in terms of replacing the loom etc.

I was pleased that nothing was seized. The swing arm and linkage bolts all came out easily plus the steering head bearings were near perfect! I knocked the inner races out so that they don't get damaged by the shot blasting and powder coating processes. Again I was nicely surprised at how easily they came out. I am hoping that, once the frame is back from the powder coaters I may not have a huge amount of work to do other than the usual cleaning up of the individual parts.

I have power washed the frame but lost the light so couldn't take any pics but will do so tomorrow.

One of the tabs that hold the number plate holder on has broken off so that needs sorting out - hopefully tomorrow - but otherwise the frame is basically looking good - other than surface rust.

Strip down pics 001.jpg

Strip down pics 002.jpg

Strip down pics 003.jpg

Probably a bit late now but someone was asking for a pic of the solenoid and associated wiring so here is one wink

Strip down pics 006.jpg

TTRfan · Super Guru

It took a little bit more effort than I had thought but the frame is now ready for the powder coater!

There were a couple of small dents in the lower frame rails which I have had properly filled with weld and ground back plus I had a rear number plate holder tab welded back on.

Stripped down frame.jpg

Stripped down frame - lower rear frame rails.jpg

Tab repair:

Stripped down frame - number plate holder tab repair.jpg

I was lucky to get the steering lock out without causing damage. The pic below shows the pin that holds the cover on.

Removing steering lock cover 1.jpg

The next pic shows how I get the cover off. You need something like a screw driver that is going to get in between the cover and the frame without bending the cover out too much so it needs to be fairly shallow - don't use a cold chisel! The pic is of another frame as I forgot to take a pic on the project frame disbelief

Removing steering lock cover 2.jpg

I removed the lock as I didn’t want it powder coated. It just pops out once the cover is off.

Stripped down frame - steering lock removed.jpg

And I remembered to remove the VIN plate!

Stripped down frame - VIN plate removed.jpg

I will probably get the engine on the bench now and start to strip it down.

To be continued!

Brian

TTRfan · Super Guru

I think this thread is going to be more about the process of getting a frame powder coated than anything else! I didn't get it right with my first project bike so I hope I have leant some useful lessons that I can pass on to other owners considering going down this route.

On my first attempt, I didn't know the process so put bolts into all the threads on the frame. Once powder coated, it was as if they had been welded in and sorting that out took ages and was very frustrating. Also, the head bearing races weren't protected and were, in effect, scrap.

I have just got back from the powder coaters and had a good chat with the manager who showed me a recent example of their work.

They plug all the threaded holes with tapered temperature resistant "silicone" plugs which are easily removed at the end of the process leaving the threads perfectly clean.

They mask off the headstock completely so there is no danger of losing metal on the shot blasting and then spoiling the surfaces with powder coating making it difficult to get the bearing races back in.

I have also asked them to protect the swing and linkage arm pivot bolt mounts from being painted.

They don't stock blue metallic powder coat so, to match the original blue metallic finish as closely as possible, they will firstly spray a silver metallic base coat which is then over sprayed with a blue lacquer. The example he showed me was a very close match. I can't be sure about the results until I pick up the finished frame!

I am using ICS at Cullompton - see http://www.industrialcoatingsupplies.co.uk/ - as they seem to have a specialist motorcycle interest.

£70 plus VAT. Time will tell if this proves to be value for money!

Brian

Cubber · Super Guru

No rest for the wicked, is there?

Perpetual Motion should be your middle name, you never stop. biggrin

Obviously too much time on your hands, you should get out more.

I must admit to my slight green tinge in envy. wink

Martyn

TTRfan · Super Guru

Trying to raise some money for our Australia trip Martyn! I need to get a move on and sell some of the fleet disbelief

TDVT · Senior Member

Brian, I was wondering if you have ever weighed a stripped-down frame (just like your pic) & how much it weighed? If not, would you mind weighing your's before it goes back together?

Thanks, Ted

TTRfan · Super Guru

TDVT wrote:
Brian, I was wondering if you have ever weighed a stripped-down frame (just like your pic) & how much it weighed? If not, would you mind weighing your's before it goes back together?

Thanks, Ted

Will do!

TDVT · Senior Member

That would be great.

Mostly curious I guess, trying to understand where the TTR's weight is & if there is some to be lost!

TTRfan · Super Guru

Picked up the frame today. I haven't weighed it yet but I did take some pics! I couldn't spend much time on it as it is our day to look after two very active grandsons aged 3 and 4 years.

Overall I am very pleased with the finish and the colour match which was achieved by a silver base coat and a blue lacquer coat.

As far as I can see all the threaded holes were properly protected which has saved me a huge amount of work. However, despite my request to mask the swing arm, linkage arm, engine and shock mounting holes, I see they have been powder coated and it is very difficult to clean off. They will probably need filing to get them back to bare metal

There are a couple of places out of sight where the coverage of blue lacquer was a bit thin but, as I said, overall I am happy with the job - despite being charged an extra £5 as the subframe support arm was treated as a separate item confuse

Powder coated frame 001.jpg

Powder coated frame 003.jpg

Here is a pic showing the newly frame at the top and an old suspension arm underneath. Pretty good match eh?

Powder coated frame 002.jpg

Powder coated frame 004.jpg

Powder coated frame 005.jpg

Powder coated frame 006.jpg

Powder coated frame 007.jpg

I now have to clean up all the parts I removed and hope I remember where they go back on the frame wink

Brian

pedrosan · Senior Member

The colour is incredibly close Brian, you must be well pleased. I'm thinking of getting my raid frame done when I sort the engine, so this thread is particularly interesting to me.

TTRfan · Super Guru

Just weighed the fully stripped frame with the side bar and it weighs 12.1kg if my bathroom scales are accurate!

And, yes, Pete, I am very pleased with the colour match biggrin

Brian

TDVT · Senior Member

Wow, the color match really looks great!

And thanks for taking the time to weigh the frame. I hadn't really guessed a weight but it seems fairly light to me.

Not really a huge contributor weight-wise considering it holds everythng together!

TTRfan · Super Guru

There are only a few bits of frame that could be safely taken off to lighten it such as the bracket for the helmet lock but it would take major work to make a worthwhile weight saving. Maybe cut off the whole rear subframe and replace it with an alumium frame for a WRF or similar? A lot of work though.

Brian

TT-R250M · Super Guru

Nice work Brian & good match of color

I was going to say it's not worth trying to lighten the frame as one rim weighs as much or more! It's very light in comparison to the wheels so maybe best to start there.

TTRfan · Super Guru

After many distractions, I managed to spend an hour on my latest project this afternoon.

First off, I got the steering bearing races out of the freezer and tapped them in with an old 1 1/2" socket.

Rebuild starting 001.jpg

Very necessary on the bottom race which is recessed.

Rebuild starting 002.jpg

They went in very easily.

The next job was to recover the frame/VIN number which was obliterated in the powder coating process despite masking before they sprayed.

VIN Number recovery - before.jpg

I masked the area and used a small wire brush in the end of my dremel to remove the paint. I then sprayed it with black paint, let it dry and then rubbed the area down with wet & dry paper which left the paint in the indentations. I then sprayed it over with several coats of clear lacquer and I hope my MOT man will be happy with the finished result.

VIN Number recovery - after1.jpg

The steering lock went back in easily and the pin tapped back in securely. The TTR in the background is my next project bike and I have wheeled it in to use as my guide for replacing all the different sized cable clips, wiring loom, etc.

Replacing steering lock.jpg

This is the part of the rebuild I enjoy as the boxes of parts gradually reduce as they go back on the frame biggrin

It's only just above freezing outside today so I am stopping work regularly to warm up in the house with a cup of tea!

Brian

LRJ · Senior Member

The pictures make it look to me like the new powder coating will match the color of the plastics more closely. Pretty neat!

TTRfan · Super Guru

It's been a while since I have posted an update - mostly because of my usual slow progress

The fork mounts are in fitted but I can't torque up the central stem bolt unitil I have the forks in and can get a bit more stability and leverage.

Build progress 1.jpg

The frame was very unstable on the stand so I thought I would quickly fit the rear swing arm and linkage BUT I came across a problem that I had forgotten about. The powder coaters hadn't masked the linkage or swing arm frame mounts and it was very fiddly and time consuming to clean up the linkage mounts in particular. There was a bit more room to work on the swing arm mounts.

The pic below shows the RH mount covered in VERY tough powder coat.

Build progress 2.jpg

I had to use a very rough flat file as nothing else would touch it!

Build progress 3.jpg

The difficulty with the linkage mounts was cleaning out the bolt hole as there was so little room and I coudn't get a file in there so it was slow work with rough sandpaper. I will make darn sure that these mounts are blanked off on my next powder coating job!

Build progress 4.jpg

I then fitted the fork legs and that has really stabilised the frame making it much easier to work on. Should have done it sooner!

Build progress 5.jpg

Rear view:

Build progress 6.jpg

Having looked at Jarrah's brilliant and thorough restoration thread here at the weekend, I realise how lightweight my thread is! Jarrah's thread has got to be the ultimate TTR250 resto thread. I take my hat off to him

Interestingly, I am having the same problem that Jarrah had as the finishing paint on my swing arm reacted with the primer causing a lot of extra work evileye Not helped by freezing temperatures and very slow drying unless I spray indoors and choke myself to death

Brian

TTRfan · Super Guru

I have replaced the swing arm bearings with an All Balls kit and refitted the swing arm plus fitted the speedo and small front indicators. Here are a few more pics - just for the sake of it!

Build progress 7.jpg

Build progress 8.jpg

Build progress 9.jpg

Build progress 10.jpg

It is worth replacing the foil heat reflector underneath the battery box if the original has been lost or damaged as was mine in the cleaning process. I bought a roll of sticky backed aluminium tape from Lidls a while back and it is useful for lots of purposes such as this smile

Brian

Battery box.jpg

pedrosan · Senior Member

I could read these restoration threads all day long! Brilliant

TTRfan · Super Guru

I will try and make sure you have plenty of reading material then Pete!

Plenty of gratuitous rebuild pics herewith biggrin

Rear caliper rebuilt and new disc pads fitted:

Build progress 013.jpg

Shock absorber fitted along with battery box and associated wiring:

Build progress 014.jpg

Handlebars fitted along with rebuilt front brake assembly and new brake pads.

Build progress 015.jpg

New wavy front and rear discs fitted along with new oil seals over the rear wheel bearings:

Build progress 019.jpg

Build progress.jpg

A couple of pics showing progress to date:

Build progress 020.jpg

Build progress 021.jpg

It's at last beginning to look like a bike!

I still have to fit a pair of new tyres (MITAS C19 front and CO2 rear) but was keen to make the TTR mobile so I can get the engine on the stand and make a start on stripping and checking it over.

Brian

MarkH · Member

I made a joke about the concentration of TTR knowledge, number of devotees etc in Devon and it was totally missed. All I can say Brian is that reading this thread and looking at what you've done with the bike, I think there must be something TRR in the Devon water and I need to think of ways we can transfer some if this to Cumbria and other far flung regions. I look forward to the next instalments and thanks for keeping us in the loop.

Mark

texasT · Senior Member

Hole E Carp Brian! ...Do You SLEEP bro?
My first look at what you are doing and I am very impressed.
greg

TTRfan · Super Guru

MarkH wrote:
I made a joke about the concentration of TTR knowledge, number of devotees etc in Devon and it was totally missed. All I can say Brian is that reading this thread and looking at what you've done with the bike, I think there must be something TRR in the Devon water and I need to think of ways we can transfer some if this to Cumbria and other far flung regions. I look forward to the next instalments and thanks for keeping us in the loop.

Mark

I saw your earlier comment and chuckled Mark! I don't think there are lot of TTRs or TTR enthusos in Devon, its just that my own enthusiasm for the model may make it seem that way wink

To be honest, I reckon that Cumbria has one of the highest density of the older white TTRs. I recollect an outfit up your way that used to import TTRs by the container load and many stayed in the area.

The beauty of the interweb is that locality is not an issue and certainly no bar to sharing information etc - witness the many threads on this forum where most questions are answered quickly with pics etc. A lot of the answers coming from the other side of the world to the UK smile

Brian

TTRfan · Super Guru

texasT wrote:
Hole E Carp Brian! ...Do You SLEEP bro?
My first look at what you are doing and I am very impressed.
greg

Thanks for the feedback Greg!

A lot of people don't understand but the satisfaction of a project coming together is immensely rewarding.

I like to work to a good standard. Most people dont get their head around the fact that every little detail has to be finished to the standard of the final effect you desire.

However, I daren't count the hours I spend cleaning up individual nuts and bolts and other fiddly bits

Can't wait to get stuck into the engine but today's our day for looking after the grandsons so no TTR work today!

Brian

MarkH · Member

Agreed Brian and this forum seems to me to be the best I've come across yet. (witness the fact that I've never bothered to get involved in any other) As experience with the TTR is gained, I hope I can contribute in a positive way.

Mark

TTRfan · Super Guru

Well, it's been a while since I have done any work on the project bike!

The valves were cleaned and lapped in, new valve stem oil seals and new timing chain fitted, and a first oversize rebore as there were a few marks on the barrel from the bike having been stood unused for a couple of years.

I spent about an hour going through boxes and shelves looking for the starter gears until I remembered being persuaded to part with them to an owner who was fairly desperate so the engine has been treated to new starter gears 1 and 2 plus a new generator cover as the old one was badly scored from a bent in gear lever

I haven't gone to town with the toothbrush and WD40 to get the engine looking pristine as I am building this TTR for green laning with sump and frame guards plus handguards etc.

I have to sort out the engine bolts and brackets after which I will be ready to put the engine back in the frame and I hope work will then progress more quickly.

Brian

Project engine 1.jpg

Project engine 2.jpg

Project engine 3.jpg

TTRfan · Super Guru

New carb stub and gasket fitted this morning plus cleaned up bolts and brackets ready for putting the engine back in.

I also had to replace the front sprocket I tool a leaf out of Jarrah and Lin's books and tried a variation of their chain trick to hold the sprocket whilst taking off and replacing the sprocket nut.

I wrapped an old chain around the sprocket and clamped it together with Mole grips. I used a bit of wood to protect the engine stand and engine case.

It worked a treat so thank you guys!!!!

Project engine 4.jpg

Project engine 5.jpg

KNjonjo · Veteran Member

This is coming along very nicely Brian. I am keenly following this thread and learning quite a bit. Looking forward to more posts.

TTRfan · Super Guru

Thanks Kimani - I am a bit worried about repitition as there have been some cracking rebuild on here before and mine is a straightforward one trying to get as close to the original TTR as possible.

OK - so I have fitted all the engine brackets, carb is in and airbox fitted. Exhaust header cleaned up and fitted along with a practically new silencer. Frame guard on one side and nearly on the other!

Filled engine with oil so I don't forget - I remembered to put the sump plug in first wink

Started to sort the controls out and have all the switches fitted but not yet connected, throttle body on and new open-ended grips ready for wrap-around handguards.

New Acerbis mudguard fitted.

I might put the battery on charge overnight with a view to possibly starting it up tomorrow as I don't think I am far off.

Lots of finishing off to do which takes the time. I need to sort out headlight, tank, side panels and rear mudguard plus fit new MITAS offroad tyres front and rear whilst the weather is still warm! Oh yes, need to fit new rear sprocket when I have the wheel out to change the tyre.

Project bike progress 001.jpg

Project bike progress 002.jpg

Project bike progress 003.jpg

Project bike progress 005.jpg

colin13846 · Senior Member

New Acerbis mudguard fitted

Brian
I did not realise that Acerbis did these.
Where are they available from?

Cubber · Super Guru

Brian,

Don't forget to fit and couple up the speedo cable.

I can't see it in any of your pictures.

I admire your tenacity, energy and endurance. Pasties obviously reach the parts ........

Martyn

TTRfan · Super Guru

colin13846 wrote:
New Acerbis mudguard fitted

Brian
I did not realise that Acerbis did these.
Where are they available from?

I have had it in store for quite a while now but seem to remember I got it from Off Road Only.

It's a YZ one.

Brian

TTRfan · Super Guru

Cubber wrote:
Brian,
Don't forget to fit and couple up the speedo cable.
I can't see it in any of your pictures.
I admire your tenacity, energy and endurance. Pasties obviously reach the parts ........
Martyn

Hmmm - funny you should say that - I was looking through my cable box today and put a speedo cable aside for some reason - now I know why wink

TTRfan · Super Guru

Lovely day down here in SW UK. I put the new tyres in the car to warm up to make 'em easier to fit. Warm up - they almost melted!

I took out the bleed screw and turned the engine over until oil was spurting out and then refittted it, put in a new spark plug, put a tank on the bike and was delighted that it started first time with no nasty noises! Very encouraging.

Next job was the tyres which went on without a hitch. The rear has a heavy duty inner tube and rim clamp. The front has an ordinary inner tube but needed a tyre clamp. I fitted the new 48T sprocket whilst I had the wheel off.

Once the wheels were back on the bike, the next job was fitting a new chain.

The front sprocket is 30mm and should be torqued to 110Nm or 80 ft lbs after fitting the two-use tab washer.

Any experienced chain fitters can skip the next bit!

The chain I use is a Renthal R3 116 link so it needed to be shortened for the 13/48 sprockets I am using.

First up is to work out how many links to cut off. I do this by putting the rear wheel fairly near the front of its travel but not so much that the tyre interferes with the swing arm. I then thread the chain through and check where to cut . Make sure that you leave two "inner" links so that you can then join them with the split or rivet link supplied with the chain.

Project bike - fitting chain 003.jpg

Although some chain breakers can cut the chain without grinding off the rivets I always get the grinder out. I have found some fantastic little cutting discs for the Dremel so that's what I use.

Project bike - fitting chain 004.jpg

I put newspaper around the link I am cutting to catch the metal filings.

Project bike - fitting chain 005.jpg

The link virtually falls apart then with just a bit of help from a chain breaker.

Project bike - fitting chain 007.jpg

Project bike - fitting chain 009.jpg

I prefer to use rivet links as shown below. The link comes with four O ring seals.

Project bike - fitting chain 010.jpg

Although not usually necessary, it is possible to help the link fitting process along with a press as pictured below.

Project bike - fitting chain 014.jpg

I then move the chain back onto the rear sprocket which gives just a tiny bit more room to get pliers onto the split link to pop it into place.

Project bike - fitting chain 015.jpg

It should then be a simple job to push the split link on.

Project bike - fitting chain 016.jpg

This is what the finished job should look like with the sprung ends of the split link caught nicely in their groove. Remember to keep an eye on the link as it will wear to a razor edge when it might pop off. I find that a chain and rear sprocket last two front sprockets so, as a matter of course, I just fit a new split link when I fit the 2nd front sprocket .

Project bike - fitting chain 018.jpg

Job done!

Hope that helps somebody.

Brian

PS Next job speedo cable - just for Martyn wink

colin13846 · Senior Member

48T rear, what are you running on the front?
Nice write up Brian, I do enjoy these posts.

TTRfan · Super Guru

colin13846 wrote:
48T rear, what are you running on the front?
Nice write up Brian, I do enjoy these posts.

Thank you Colin!

I will be running 13T up front.

I am looking forward to getting it on the road for a spin. My rebuild's first run is usually to the MOT station a few miles away in Exmouth. Haven't had one break down on me yet on their maiden voyage wink

TTRfan · Super Guru

TTRfan wrote:
colin13846 wrote:
New Acerbis mudguard fitted

Brian
I did not realise that Acerbis did these.
Where are they available from?
I have had it in store for quite a while now but seem to remember I got it from Off Road Only.
It's a YZ one.
Brian

Just been on the ORO website and it looks like they don't do the Acerbis mudguards any more. They do a choice of RaceTech and UFO though with the UFO being the better quality of the two! Part numbers begin with 75-3879.be

I had a bit of an issue fitting my Acerbis one and it turns out the locating holes are slightly different so a bit of plastic filing was called for!

Brian

TTRfan · Super Guru

I am making slow progress with all the fiddly bits cry

Footpegs, rear brake pedal, kickstart fitted:

Project bike progress 006.jpg

And on the LH side the gear change lever and sidestand have been fitted.

Project bike progress 009.jpg

At the front, I have fitted the headlight and connected it up along with the indicators and a nice pair of our Polisport handguards. The levers and switches are all fitted and connected but everything has been left a bit loose so that I can adjust them to suit my riding position when I have the TTR off the stand.

And I still haven't fitted the speedo cable Martyn disbelief

Project bike progress 007.jpg

Just stopped for a cuppa but hope to get the TTR ready for a test run today.

Brian

Tigerman · Member

Looks like its up to your usual high standards Bri!! That will be a great buy for somebody.

Cubber · Super Guru

As Paul says, Brian, you set your standards high AND you maintain them. wink I do not doubt the speedo cable will be fitted in the fulness of time. aww

The kit you've put on looks impressive.

Good luck with the test run.

Martyn

Trev McRev · Member

Looking good there Bri
The before and after photos will be proper job!
Trev

TTRfan · Super Guru

Cubber wrote:

As Paul says, Brian, you set your standards high AND you maintain them. I do not doubt the speedo cable will be fitted in the fulness of time.
The kit you've put on looks impressive.
Good luck with the test run.
Martyn

Thanks Martyn - and just for you biggrin biggrin biggrin biggrin

Project bike progress.jpg

TTRfan · Super Guru

Thanks for your kind comments guys - just hope the finished TTR lives up to your expectations confuse

So, speedo cable and exhaust guard fitted. I fitted the rear mudflap but it looked precariously close to the new CO2 tyre so will leave it off for a few miles to let the new chain and sprockets to bed in. If I can get one more notch on the cam adjusters then that will be enough to clear.

I fitted a spare petrol tank with some fuel in plus a couple of old side panels and I took the bike for a quick test drive (on a local private road!).

The clutch was dragging a bit so some adjustment needed there and the front brake slightly spongy so maybe needs bleeding.

However, the newly re-bored engine was sweet as a nut biggrin biggrin

Before I could do any more, Mrs TTR arrived and we went out for her belated birthday meal at a local hostelry (Trev and Martyn will know the White Horse) and very nice it was too. Don't feel like doing any more on the TTR today!

I need to go over the TTR tomorrow, check everything is properly tightened up, fix the clutch and front brake after which I will book it in for an MOT and that will be nearly job done.

Brian

TTRfan · Super Guru

Still putting bits on - chain guard and new Yamaha mirrors and caliper guard now fitted.

I did another trial run with the levers and guards adjusted and its all working well smile

I remember buying some Yamaha vinyl swing arm decals a few months ago (from here http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/YAMAHA-Decals-Stickers-2x-200mm-/251275031006? ) so had a go at fitting them. I am very pleased with the result.

Yamaha vinyl swingarm decals 1.jpg

Yamaha vinyl swingarm decals 2.jpg

TTRfan · Super Guru

Disc guard fitted, D&D decals stuck on tank, new side panels fitted and the project TTR is now beginning to look the way I hoped it would biggrin biggrin biggrin

Mrs TTR sold our last bashplate and tail tidy so I need to patient for a few more days for new stock to arrive but meanwhile here are a few pics.

Nearly finished 1.jpg

Nearly finished 003.jpg

Nearly finished 008.jpg

domski1 · Senior Member

Looking really good Brian, better than the day it came out of the factory! Is this one a keeper or will some lucky customer be getting there hands on it?

Cubber · Super Guru

Crikey, Brian - that's superb.

If Mr. Yamaha saw these re-build threads he'd be worried that you were about to set up as a TTR manufacturer in competition with him.

I'll tell you what, though - I'd sooner buy one of yours than his because the finish is better and at least there's no running in to do.

Just compare the before & after shots:-

Martyn

colin13846 · Senior Member

Cracking job Brian

I like those swinging arm decals and the price including postage is great value, going to order some now!

TTRfan · Super Guru

Thanks guys. I must say that I am pleased with it myself.

Looking at my list of new parts and accessories I have used it already adds up to over £1,200 but that includes the rebore, new sprag clutch, gaskets etc etc.

However, for that budget the TTR is now in pretty good shape.

I already have the next project bike lined up so this one will be for sale as soon as I have put some test miles on and am 100% happy with it wink

Brian