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Post Info TOPIC: Throttle Take Up


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Throttle Take Up
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Hi Folks, would appreciate a bit of advice on this if possible. The riding experience on my 05 TTR is best described as "clunky" with respect to the throttle take up, smooth and progressive it is not. Don't think it has ever been really smooth since I've owned it, but I would expect everyone here who rides their TTR off road has a good throttle/clutch set up and at the moment I certainly don't and I'd like to put that right.

I think it is still on original cables so was planning to replace them, possibly with longer ones as I may fit some bar risers too. So where else should I be directing my effort apart from new throttle and clutch cables ?

The bike is a reliable starter and runs well, it's happy at 55 and 60 mph and when I had the carb ultrasonically cleaned and rebuilt I was advised it was pretty good inside so I think it's just the control of the carb but would welcome any advice on what to check/replace. 



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Hi Gareth

thought I would get this going for you, as we have been emailing and maybe someone else can help. As suggested check the throttle cables for correct adjustment.

You can also check the diaphragm is pumping, but you will need to take it off the bike (unless anyone knows how to check it on the bike) twist the throttle cable holder and see if a small bit of fuel comes out of the pumper.

Trying to find a photo of it, for you.



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Thanks Steve, I checked the throttle cables as suggested and the free play is pretty much in spec at the twistgrip. The twistgrip is free moving and snaps back OK too. They are the original cables with all the adjusters.

The clutch lever, though, has a lot of "waggle" and I don't think is giving a straight pull of the clutch cable. I cleaned it all up and there's a bit of wear in the old lever and on the pivot bolt so I swapped the lever with one of your replacements and there was still loads of "waggle" about the pivot bolt. The clutch cable looks past its best too. Maybe time for a new pivot bolt, clutch lever and cable, best done before I take the carb apart. Anyone else have clutch lever issues like this ?



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Fitted a new clutch pivot bolt with the replacement lever and a new clutch cable too. That improved things a bit but was having a bit of an issue getting a biting point that did not feel as if the clutch was dragging. Then I looked at the actuating arm, the alignment marks and checked the manual, it's way out, maybe 10 -15 mm. I'm changing the oil anyway so will take the cover off and have a look at the clutch plates and see if there's anything left of the friction material and if I can adjust the arm back to the alignment marks. If not, then I guess it's a new set of friction plates.

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Just about sorted, I think, well for now anyway.

The short long story. Checked the clutch plates, they looked OK but decided to change them anyway, so in went a set of the Psychic plates and while the old ones were out a new locknut spacer as the one there was well butchered. Oil and filter changed and a pair of  new throttle cables also went on. I've never been that happy with the rear shock and following advice on the forum checked to see if there was any "clickage" at the adjusters. No, no "clickage" suggesting no, or low gas pressure.

Took the shock off, again the forum is great and what worked for me was to remove the battery box and lower linkage and drop the shock through the swingarm. I was going to swap out the lowering link I'd fitted previously anyway and restore the ride height so this was OK, especially as I have previously replaced all the bearings, so everything came apart really well. Followed the guide on the forum of how to remove the old top bearing which came out OK. Another forum post suggested Revs Racing at Halesowen as a good place to send the shock. It most certainly was, so thanks for sharing. Off it went by courier one Monday, called on the Tuesday to see if it was there to be advised it had arrived, been rebuilt and would be back the next day, Wednesday. It was. Apparently it was in good condition internally, but filthy. Top job by Revs Racing.

Refitted the shock back through the swingarm and pushed it up into the top mount with a trolley jack. The fitting guide showed what to do with the spreader bolt included with the new bearing so followed that, job done. Dropped the forks back through the yokes to restore the ride height at the front. It did take a while to set the rear sag as the adjusting rings are not the easiest to get to. I've gone for about 100 mm, or 4" in old money which I think is about right.

Now I have suspension that does it's job along with a clutch that does what it's supposed too as well. I ended up doing a bit more than I expected but all worth it it. Took it for MoT, which it passed and the ride there and back was much better than the last time I was out on the bike. Still a bit of work to do get the slow running right and take out a bit more slack in the throttle cables, but a few more miles out on the bike will sort that.

Thanks to everyone who has posted guides, how to's and places to get stuff done, it all really helps !

That should be it for a bit.....



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Great news Gareth - thanks for the feedback wink



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