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Post Info TOPIC: Restoring a 1999 "white" TTR250 but upgrading to "blue" and fitting a 350cc big-bore kit!


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Restoring a 1999 "white" TTR250 but upgrading to "blue" and fitting a 350cc big-bore kit!
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I bought a TTR a while ago that had been standing unused and unloved in salty sea air next to the Somerset coast for over 10 years. It certainly showed all the signs of neglect as you will see from the photos!

Before photos 1.JPG

Before photos 2.JPG

Before photos 4.JPG

Before photos 5.JPG

All the plating has eroded leaving the fasteners rusty and, I am guessing, nicely seized into position no 

I can hardly move the bike as the chain is so badly rusted.

s-l1600 (7).jpg

s-l1600 (6).jpg

If you want to check out what sea air can do to unprotected aluminium, have a look at the spare levers that were stored in the fender bag!

Salty levers.jpeg

The eagle eyed amongst you may have noticed the TTR has a kickstart. The PO had sprag issues which took out the starter gears and starter so he removed those parts, blanked off the starter hole and relied on the kickstart. 

s-l1600 (4).jpg

I am really looking forward to getting stuck into restoring and upgrading this old TTR. 

I have been power washing it and that's always a good time to inspect a bike as you are going over it.

I am pleased to say that the frame looks really good with no dents in the bottom frame rails and no obvious cracks in the usual places or any other damage smile

The plan is:

  • powder coat the frame black
  • rebuild the shock 
  • rebuild the wheels with new spokes and powder coating the purple rims silver
  • re-plate or renew all fasteners
  • fit a 350cc big-bore kit
  • replace the metal tank with a blue plastic tank from a later TTR
  • replace all the white panels and headlight with blue ones
  • fit a nice decal kit
  • fit road tyres as I won't use it off road as I already have my 325 for that
  • restore the electric start
  • all the usual upgrades from the Totally TTRs store such as frame guards, sump guards, handguard, higher handlebars and long cables, tail tidy, etc etc biggrin

It's gonna be fun!

Brian



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I don't know about "by the coast", more like "on the beach"!
Plastics look ok, does it have to go blue?
Nice little winter project, oh, wait a minute, it's nearly summer. Ah well, it'll probably be Christmas by the time the 350 barrels are done...



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LOL - yeah - on the beach is more like it Simon no

I have accumulated a blue tank and plastics over a period of time with a view to using them on a project such as this. Also, I like a challenge wink

Also, the white plastics are getting like unobtanium so I am hoping to subsidise some of my spend by liquidising them at some point.

As you can see, I have a bit of work to do so am not chasing for the 350 kit - yet biggrin

After taking off the tank, I found the other half of the field underneath so a bit more power washing was required!

Under the tank.JPG

The two top airbox bolts were well seized on and would not undo. Also, it's almost impossible to get anything on to grip the captive nuts so I ended up grinding the bolt heads off no

A least it gave good access for the final power wash and the TTR is already looking a bit more hopeful. 

The TTR is now tucked away for the night having had a thorough dowsing in WD40. It now stinks out there evileye

Power washed and WD40d.JPG 

The PO has "modified" the wiring around the battery and solenoid area so that'll need re-instating but my objective tomorrow will be to see if I can master the kickstarting technique and fire her up. Before that, I guess I need to sort out a battery to replace the one that came with the bike which is absolutely dead - not surprising after being stood up for ten years no and remove and thoroughly clean the carb out.

Looking forward to it smile



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Looks like a challenge at the moment but I'm sure it will come up very well with a bit of elbow grease and TLC.
I'm also on the lookout for an OE for a project look forward to checking it out in all its glory next week!



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TTR restoration level 5000!

Good luck and I look forward to following the build.

Cheers Leigh.

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Cleaned up well already!

Good luck!

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RE: Restoring a 1999 "white" TTR250 but upgrading to "blue" and fitting a 350cc big-bore kit!
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Another one, Brian.  blankstare

How many will this one be that you've done since starting? confuse

Martyn



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I have lost count Martyn! I reckon I have broken about twenty for spares where the frames were no good and probably restored and sold another twenty?

I should know my way around them by now but still forget stuff and get into difficulties disbelief

Back to the current project smile

The tank is leaking in the usual place where the seat rubs on the corner. May need welding!

Leaky tank.JPG

The PO made a common mistake and attached the overflow pipe to the drain plug's outlet.

Overflow wrongly connected.JPG

The carb overall is in pretty good shape. A couple of wrong fasteners and Red Hematite used instead of replacing the gaskets but all easily fixed biggrin

Carb before 1.JPG 

Carb before 2.JPG

Carb before 3.JPG

I am not doing a full carb restoration at this point. I just want it clean to test start the bike so I fully stripped it and put it through the ultrasonic cleaner. That got the rest of the dirt off but the body of the carb is still pretty stained so it'll get bead blasted at some point in the rebuild.

Just having a cuppa and then going to reassemble the carb and refit it - if I can find a good inlet stub. Just got to sort out a petrol supply then!



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Carb re-assembled and fitted along with a good inlet stub.

I turned my attention to the airbox and thought I should check the filter. Good job I did as the foam just fell apart when I touched it. Guess I will be needing another filter then wink

Just goes to show that the foam doesn't last forever - or maybe the PO used ordinary engine oil on it rather than proper filter oil confuse

Air filter disintegrating.JPG



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Stop being so fussy Brian, that filter is good for another 10,000klm.....maybe.



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Its not bad for a bike that sat for 10 years outside in those conditions.

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Restoring a 1999 "white" TTR250 but upgrading to "blue" and fitting a 350cc big-bore kit!
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I know we sometimes give suppliers a hard time but let me sing the praises of Tayna Batteries.

I like the Numax batteries and they have always served me well. I needed one for the TTR so ordered yesterday and it arrived midday today - excellent!  See here

I always put a bit of washer bottle pipe under the lead nuts to stop them falling out. Anything for an easier life wink

 

Numax battery.JPG

I fitted the battery and had a go at starting the bike but no success.  

I have fuel but no spark so need to remind myself how to check the ignition circuit - but that'll wait until tomorrow.

It would all be a lot easier if t had electric start no

Brian



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I had an overnight brainwave. It's very rare for a TTR to lose its spark so had to be something I was doing wrong. My thoughts were correct - it turned out the lack of spark had a simple fix - change the position of the kill switch disbelief

Kill switch.JPG

My excuse is that I always use the key and never the kill switch so I didn't give it a thought at first!

Anyways up, I checked and there is now a good spark. 

As I started kicking the bike over, the oil must have got up around the piston and rings as I could feel the compression improving. However, I knackered myself out without even getting a backfire.  

The kickstart started to wobble around like a wobbly thing and I caught my shin a couple of times. Doesn't that smart eh?  So, another diversion and off with the kickstart lever. The reason for the wobbliness is obvious. The retaining screw has a big groove worn into it. Plus the little ball that is supposed to hold the lever in the in or out position is refusing to come out of its groove cry

Kickstart internals.JPG

 

Unfortunately the screw isn't listed on the parts fiche so it may be a case of filling the groove with weld and then filing it back into shape.

Kickstart fiche.jpg

I recalled creating a web page showing how to fit a kickstart mechanism (see here) and at the bottom of the page is some information about the ball bearing and spring. Sadly no source was given for the screw hmm

Getting out the ball bearing was a bit of a 'mare! Drill bits wouldn't touch it and grinding stones ineffective. I resorted to reducing the size of the ball bearing using a little cutting disc on the Dremel and, after a bit of a struggle, I managed to get it out. The spring was also playing hard ball and got a bit stretched on its way out no

I am pretty sure that I bought the correct sized 5.5mm diameter ball bearings a few years ago to use in a kickstart but, what are the chances of me finding the spare ones? This is why there is never such a thing as a quick job when fettling bikes smile

Kickstart internals 2.JPG

Long story short, I actually found the packet of ball bearings! I had to re-drill the hole to 5.5mm so that the new ball bearing would fit without binding. I found a shouldered bolt that was a good enough fit to hold everything together, a good dob of grease and it's back on the bike and working fine - the kickstart that is - sadly the TTR still doesn't want to start cry

Kickstart internals 3.JPG

Brian



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nice project brian will keep you busy you can do it looking forward to the finished job john

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RE: Restoring a 1999 "white" TTR250 but upgrading to "blue" and fitting a 350cc big-bore kit!
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Thanks for the vote of confidence John - most appreciated!

I have been brought to a halt as I just can't get the TTR started on the kicker - probably my technique - or lack of it disbelief

Got a good spark, decent compression and also drained the carb and tank and refilled with ultra-fresh petrol bought from the local garage this morning but not even a cough or backfire. Really frustrating.

I want to check the engine, clutch, gearbox and electrics are all OK before tearing it apart so that any spares subsequently offered for sale can be guaranteed as tested.

I may get my brother to try tow starting it with me...........



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Hey TTRFan,

I've also had to replace the bolt on the kickstarter. The XT225 Serrow uses an almost exact match. Yamaha dealers can still get the part in the UK.

W5DUkjN.jpg

Part number is: 90152-06010-00

The project looks good, should tidy up nicely.



-- Edited by BikerMat on Friday 24th of May 2019 09:21:15 PM

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rear sprocket bolts on 450 ktm looks very similar m8 thread if that helps

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Restoring a 1999 "white" TTR250 but upgrading to "blue" and fitting a 350cc big-bore kit!
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You are a star Matthew!  Very many thanks smile

Following your lead, I found that several Yamaha models use that screw including the Serow and WR250F biggrinbiggrin

The part number has changed though: SCREW CROSS RECESS 9015106005  Replaces  90152-06010. I have updated the web page with the information.

I will order one through Steve when he returns from his holidays wink

Brian



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Just spent a happy hour with my brother towing the TTR up and down the road. The engine was completely dead and it wouldn't even backfire no

I was sitting down having a cuppa and it dawned on me that I hadn't put the suppressor cap back on the spark plug after taking it off to test for a spark disbelief

My ever-patient brother helped me bump start it. It started up almost immediately and, after a puff of smoke, ran nicely. The clutch, gears and brakes are all working fine - not bad after a 12-year lay up outdoors uncovered!

The TTR pulled nicely in all the gears so the carb must be set up perfectly for it.

I was a bit apprehensive about stopping the engine but was pleased to find that I can actually start it on the kicker now biggrin

Having checked out the engine, gearbox, clutch and electrics, the strip down can now start.



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Another great build thread from yourself in the making Brian, hopefully the rest will go a little more smoothly but there again it is keeping us all entertained and maybe a little jealous!



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Thanks Adam biggrin

It's a good job I retired and Steve is doing all the important stuff these days eh? 

I am getting more of a liability as the years roll by. My grand daughter was on a visit from her home in Spain and asked Trish (Mrs TTR) what she did for a living. Trish jokingly explained that she was a full-time carer for granddad and the little girl fully believed her. I am beginning to think that Trish may have been closer to the mark than she realised disbelief

Anyways up, I am looking forward to the morra and tearing that TTR apart biggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrin

Brian



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Slow progress not helped by taking a day off to go trail riding and then feeling knackered today no

At least I have now made a start on stripping the TTR down. I have used PlusGas liberally on all the nuts and bolts that I could see and am pleased to say that, so far, every one has undone with no dramas. The trouble is that PlusGas really does smell horrible cry

The only issue so far is a broken number-plate fixing tab which will need welding before I get the frame blasted and powder coated.

Number plate tab sheared.JPG

Unfortunately the spare inlet stub I used after the original broke when I first took the carb off for cleaning, also fell apartcry It is surprising how frail these get as they age.

Carb boot.JPG

 

I had some bad luck taking off the front forks as I broke my favourite 1/4" drive wobble extension on a tight fork clamp bolt cry My fault though as I should have been using a bigger drive disbelief

Broken wobble extension bar 2.JPG 

Broken wobble extension bar 1.JPG  

 

So this is as far as I have got before stopping for the night. Still a long way to go!

Partly disassembled1.JPG

I am trying to be more methodical in this strip down than I have been on previous ones. I am going to make a note of the sizes and positions of all the cable clips as that can be a puzzle on rebuilds. Also, I am bagging and labelling more parts than usual to keep bits together and am using spare nuts to hold bolts/screws in their original fittings e.g. coil, regulator, stand switch, etc. as shown in photo below:

Nut retainers.JPG



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Back on the strip down again.

Once I got the side stand off I could see why it had so much free movement in the up position! I will need a new bolt as well as a step has been worn in it which will also have contribute to the wobbliness! I will need to build up the inner edge of the sidestand (anyone old enough to remember that we used to call them kick stands back in the day?) with weld and file back to shape.

Worn stand pivot.JPG

 

I had to cut the old chain off as I couldn't see a split link and I guess a rivet link had been used. When the chain dropped off so did the lower chain guide. I don't think that's gonna be repairable no

Chain guide wrecked.JPG

 



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I will need to build up the inner edge of the sidestand (anyone old enough to remember that we used to call them kick stands back in the day?)

 

Up until I got a Tiger Cub I heard them called prop-stands or kick stands.

When I got the TTR they were called side-stands.

My T100 never had one when I got it and I never fitted one.

My BSA pre-dates even a centre stand never mind kick/prop/side stands!  biggrinbiggrin

Martyn



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biggrinbiggrin I knew I could count on you Martyn biggrinbiggrin

OK - back to the project bike. It's been really fighting me and the engine mount and swing/linkage arm bolts have not really wanted to come off at all evileye  I have had to use the half inch drive socket set, windy gun, nearly a whole can of PlusGas and, occasionally, my biggest Irish screwdriver no

I am knackered now - it feels like I would imagine after a wrestling match!

I can't get the engine out as the header pipe is stuck in and if I hit it any harder with the hide hammer I am going to put dents in it. I have drowned it in PlusGas and, if that doesn't ease it then I will attack with the blow torch.

Header pipe stuck.JPG

 

The rear master cylinder bolts are also proving to be a PITA. I have tried using the impact driver but it started to round out the Allen heads. My possibilities are heat and or putting a cold chisel to their edges to see if I can get them to move that way. I don't think there is room to get Mole Grips on them no

Rear master cylinder bolts stuck.JPG

I might just tidy up and call it a day and try again tomorrow when I feel fresher wink



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brian try a air chisel the percussion action will move it

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I use a little gas soldering iron/blow torch for localized heating. Also handy for heating/releasing spoke nipples.
Good luck Brian, glutton for punishment!

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Restoring a 1999 "white" TTR250 but upgrading to "blue" and fitting a 350cc big-bore kit!
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Thanks guys but I didn't read your messages until after I beat the TTR into submission wink

The exhaust succumbed to a MAP attack and a lot of light tapping and twisting on the header pipe - thank goodness. 

MAP torch.JPG

That allowed me to take out the engine and turn the frame to get better access to those reservoir bolts. They submitted after an attack with a sharp cold chisel and lightish hammer

Rear master cylinder bolt and cold chisel.JPG

 

Removing the steering lock without causing too much damage is always a challenge but, using a small plain screwdriver and a light hammer it soon came out. The trick is to get the spiral retaining pin out just enough to be able to unscrew it the rest of the way with pliers.

Steering lock removal.JPG

DSC_0007.JPG

 

Frame now stripped and ready for power washing followed by a thorough inch-by-inch check for any cracks or other damage to be repaired before shot blasting and powder coating.

Frame stripped.JPG

 

Just got to find room to store all the parts that'll be taking up room while everything else is happening disbelief



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To try and take the guesswork out of which size cable clips go where on the frame, I decided to be more methodical this time. I took off 11 clips and they are four different sizes: four 6mm, one 8mm, four 15mm and two 20mm. These sizes are the approx id of the closed clips. 

I have made an assumption (possibly a dangerous one!) that the clips on the TTR I just stripped were correct but, if so, this is what I got:

Frame bare 1.JPG 



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great, I will be needing that very soon



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I'm a Johnny-come-lately around here but, I just reckon TTR250 should have the deep purplish blue frame. It's so distinctive of the model, that's all.

Not my bike and just another opinion.

Otherwise, I like the write up so far. I reckon this one was a worse starting point than mine. I'm sure it will be fabulous when you're finished.



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Hi Ray. I tried to get a match on the original purple for the first frame I had powder coated but they couldn't get anywhere near the correct colour so that one was done in black. I am now having difficulty in getting a match to the 2K model's metallic blue as the firm I have used previously have run out of the powder for the lacquer and wont buy any more in cry  So I still have to make a decision on frame colour...

There hasn't been any progress for a while as Trish and I have been touring France for a couple of weeks and, despite campsites advertising WiFi, in reality it was unusable hence I haven't been able to keep up with the forum.

Loads to catch up on but great to see the mutual support that has been given over recent weeks. Some increasingly knowledgeable owners on the forum which is great biggrin

Brian



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Came back to the Forum after a small break, and I found this thread! I really like the detail in this rebuild. Awesome work!
I'm busy looking for another OE for myself to rebuild. But these bike are very scarce in South Africa.



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Just a brief update and to let you know that I haven't given up on this project. All the parts are boxed or hung up awaiting attention.

I was hoping that someone might have a scrap blue frame that I could buy the plastic tank frame fixings to save me having to fabricate them but I don't think it' going to happen so am resolved to making them up myself. I am OK with restoring and mending but not so good on fabrication disbelief

Meanwhile, I have diverted my attentions to another TTR that I need to finish, sell and make some room!

Brian 



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A further update.

After careful thought, I have decided that this project would be one too many so will instead build my 350 engine and put it into my existing trail TTR. One less bike to accommodate, maintain, tax and insure biggrin

That means that all the parts I have accumulated for the build from the frame to the switch gear will be sold.

I will also be looking to sell my existing 325 engine based on the Thumper Racing big-bore kit.

Apologies to any project junkies watching this thread but I promise to document fully my 350 build wink

Brian



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Hi Brian, sorry too here you have stopped the project, fingers crossed this gives you some time to actually ride the thing! 

 



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Exactly my sentiments Dan. I spend too much time fettling and not enough riding! Can't remember the last time I went trail riding cry

Amongst my stash will be forks, rear shock, Motad exhaust, blue plastic tank, side panels, rear mudguard, seat, etc etc. These will all be cleaned up and put up for sale in Steve's Totally TTRs shop as I get around to it.

Brian



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I'm sure keeping in top of your fleet will keep you busy enough!

 



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Thanks

Daniel Lee

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