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Post Info TOPIC: TTR single click upon e-start


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TTR single click upon e-start
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just took the TTR for a spin. Stopped it, started again and it’s making just a single click noise. Battery is fully charged

 

video: https://vimeo.com/324290036



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update-

tapped it with a hammer. but it is making terrible inconsistent noises. it has made loud clicks for some time, but would start and didnt sound like it was dying.

vimeo.com/324302410



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Is the battery OK? confuse

Sounds as if it could do with a charge to make it spin more.

Try a jump start from another battery, say a nearby car, with jump leads connected the right way!!

Martyn

 



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the sound of the starter sure is clicking loud too... and tapping the starter made it go from a click to engage.

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Check the voltage of the battery under load/whilst starting. Could be new battery time? If the voltage drops significantly your battery may have gone bad.

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If the lights don't dim when you try the starter 

Then most likely it's the solenoid or bushes in the starter 

First check is to bridge the two big terminals on the solenoid. If it cranks, it's the solenoid 

Next step check for power at the starter terminal when it clicks if yes most likely the brushes 

A light tap might get a start out of it if it's brushes 

But don't hit the starter hard as the magnets are brittle and break easy 



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Les has given good advice Dan.

If the motor doesn't spin over when you bridge the solenoid terminals then it sounds like the brushes are sticking or worn.

In which case, this thread might help you.

Brian



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ttboof wrote:

If the lights don't dim when you try the starter 

 

 Les- and they're fading. Is it a brush?



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tom13 wrote:
ttboof wrote:

If the lights don't dim when you try the starter 

 

 Les- and they're fading. Is it a brush?


 If they are fading noticeably could just be a battery 

If it's brushes as there is no curcuit the lights shouldn't fade out maybe slightly dim 



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would I be bridging these two terminals? what wire do I use to bridge them

Solenoid_replacement5.jpg



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between the 2 bolts on the back of the solenoid, using a screwdriver would be fine



-- Edited by ttr steve on Saturday 16th of March 2019 01:21:35 PM

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"If they are fading noticeably could just be a battery 

If it's brushes as there is no curcuit the lights shouldn't fade out maybe slightly dim "

The battery is new charged 13.8V. The starter does half a turn of the shaft only and still has no strength. The lights go out. The battery then has 12.3V and no longer rotates.



-- Edited by tom13 on Saturday 16th of March 2019 02:08:44 PM

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It would simply just click, but would start to crank if i tapped the starter, but i couldnt get it to start. Does this rule out the solenoid?

I will try bridge the solenoid, like steve said with a screwdriver, just touching over the two bolts?

"Next step check for power at the starter terminal when it clicks if yes most likely the brushes"
--whats the best way to check this, with a voltage tester?

Thanks guys-- when it comes to these electric issues i am clueless

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https://ttr250.activeboard.com/download.spark?ID=1612449&aBID=139305

 /download.spark?ID=1612449&aBID=139305

Is this the lead to check for power at the starter?



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If it's attempting to turn with a light  tap and the lights aren't fading  right out 

It's starting to look like brushes 

Only taking the starter off and apart will tell but not a difficult job. 

Use Brian's how to if you decide to have a look .

One last check that is the positive lead on the starter check it's not loose as it can give the same symptoms as worn brushes 

That is a click and no or limited crank 



-- Edited by ttboof on Saturday 16th of March 2019 09:31:46 PM

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Wow thanks so much. I’ll give that a shot. Im happy there is so much documentation and support on this forum. Just one question- which would be the positive lead on the starter be located?

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There's only the one connection on the starter it has the lead from the solenoid attached 

On top at the back an 8mm nut if my memory serves me correctly be careful not to twist the post /bolt 



-- Edited by ttboof on Sunday 17th of March 2019 01:27:52 AM

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Lurkville wrote:

https://ttr250.activeboard.com/download.spark?ID=1612449&aBID=139305

Is this the lead to check for power at the starter?


Yes - that's the power lead from the solenoid. 10mm nut. 



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Alright guys, ready for an update.

 

Pulled the starter cover- PO stripped one of the allens and had to hammer a star bit in order to get it off. Off to a great start!

 

As soon as I popped the cover, tons of metal shavings

112gaom.jpg

w1787t.jpg

 

 

Decided I'd better pull the starter and get a closer look. 

 

First I checked all the leads and made sure they were a tight fit, but at this point it seemed obvious it was the starter.

2napahg.jpg

a little rusty, but everything was secure.

 

 

 

STARTER:

-removed the exhaust header

-removed 3 banjo bolts to fitting

-removed clutch bracket

-was unable to get a wrench on the lead at the top of the starter, aggravating that I couldnt get a wrench to fit and I do not have a means to grind down an extra 10mm .. 

-removed the starter with the lead attached and detached it at the solenoid end

 

2aimzkn.jpg

 

21mhz86.jpg

Can see where all those metal shavings came from....

286rd6t.jpg

Bits of magnets all inside !

2hqtpo5.jpg

a1oeq9.jpg

 

 

 

So that's that. I am still aggravated about this lead up top. It seems it will need to come off if i'm to replace any of these components(?) 

Besides grinding down a wrench, is there another way to take this damn thing off?!

 



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Hi Dan

That is bad news cry

The most common cause of such damage is a worn sprag clutch which allows the engine to kickback when it is switched off and this can strip the starter pinion and likely damage the small starter gear teeth (Gear 2). In more extreme cases the kickback can also crack the generator cover.

See http://www.ttr250.com/Sprag_replacement/TTR_sprag_replacement.htm for help in fixing the problem.

Also, it looks like the brushes have broken up rather than the starter magnet.

Brian 



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Thanks Brian. That is definitely a more invasive task than i had anticipated. I had ordered a used starter off ebay for 45 today hoping that I could just swap a "new" one on. However, if youre saying the sprag is worn, I'm assuming this would just happen to a replacement if I put it in there?

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Given that I have ordered a used starter that is claimed to be in good working condition and not worn, I should only need sprag clutch (4GY-15590-00-00) and follow the tutorial?

Any other parts besides the mentioned flywheel puller and the sprag?

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If your sprag is worn and not replaced it will almost certainly damage your replacement starter.

Have a read through the tutorial and it will give you an idea as to what other parts might need replacement, depending on their condition, such as Gear 2 if any teeth are damaged by the starter pinion (very likely!), Gear 3 if the boss is worn or damaged, and the generator cover gasket. Check the generator cover carefully for any sign of cracking or damage from the swarf.

The flywheel will have collected most of the starter pinion swarf so make sure that is properly cleaned off. You are also like to find some in the sump that will need cleaning out.  Check the oil filter for shiny bits and clean/replace as necessary. It might be worth fitting a magnetic sump plug to catch and remaining swarf that might be floating around in the sump.

Brian 



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