Bit of info, today I set my sag height for my new TTR and everything went well, bike felt a lot better etc.
This evening I took it for a quick burn over a few bumpy bits and the rear suspension seema to have bottomed out and is now stuck in that position. I have tried releasing pressure off the rear wheel and hitting a few curbs to unstick it but to no avail. Will have a better look in the morning but does anyone have a quick fix to hopefully save me some time when I do so?
After a quick visual inspection nothing seems damaged (Link, Spring, Damper)
Thanks, Tyler
-- Edited by T Mozza on Tuesday 22nd of January 2019 08:09:37 AM
-- Edited by T Mozza on Tuesday 22nd of January 2019 08:23:49 AM
I have taken everything off the bike. I struggled to get into the rebound damper due to the compression of the shock. I attempted to take off the nut at the top of the shock but only got it halfway before the pressure (of the shock pushing up?) jammed it in place, may need to get a punch and hit it out in the morning. If I manage to get a c spanner or punch onto the rebound adjuster which direction did you turn yours to unlock the suspension?
Also being pretty careful of it rapidly expanding into a soft part of my body if it does free itself, did you have any trouble with that?
If you get the TTR up in the air on a bike stand or whatever such that the rear wheel is off the ground, then there should be no pressure from the shock. It should be possible to take out the top and/or bottom bolts without any danger.
If the shock is trying to "expand" could the spring retaining collar at the top have broken or come loose? If not it should hold the spring in its compressed state quite safely.
Could the linkage or swing arm be seized?
It really doesn't matter which way you turn the knob unless it is completely would one way or the other in which case you shouldn't try forcing it any further. It really should move with just hand force.
Ah yes, I think there is a small amount of weight on my back wheel still, am going to have to get some help tomorrow as no way of getting a jack under it.
Thanks for clearing up my understanding of the system, first time I've played around with anything like this.
I had suspected that the linkage may have gotten stuck somehow, ill report back tomorrow with my findings to hopefully help anyone else who has this issue.
Couldnt help myself, went back out to have another crack. Got the top bolt out. Cant see any noticable damage to the linkage and it seems to move freely.
I played with the rebound adjuster but the shock absorber is still compressed. Ill include some photos for reference.
Tomorrow Ill probably take the whole rear shock out and bring it to a shop unless there is some obvious fix when I fully remove it.
Just for anyone information who happens to have the same problem....
I took the rear shock completely out and took it to a suspension shop. They diagnosed it as - due to a small long term oil leak the master piston seized. They will be pulling it apart tomorrow to have a closer look and give a quote for a repair. Ill edit this post once I know more.
The oil leak I experienced seemed to originate from the bottom of the shock (just above the rebound adjuster) due to a cracked/missing seal.
Lesson learnt, don't ride off small oil spots as engine oil leaks from an old bike. It could be something a little more sinister .
It's another first for me - not heard of that happening before!
Should be a quick job if it's just the seal head - and the damper rod isn't worn or damaged such that it caused the leak. The seal heads should be readily available - Steve keeps them in the shop here.
I have managed to find a rear shock off of a 1998 TTR for sale. My question is whether this will be the same size as my rear shock (2005 blue TTR). Haven't seen any information that would suggest otherwise but thought I would double check before purchasing. Thanks again everyone!
When a TTR250 shock locks up, assuming nothing inside has broken, the usual cause is due to the damping adjuster being wound in too much, pushing and jamming the damping restrictor needle in the shock shaft against the orifice causing a hydraulic lock.
It is usually possible to get around the problem by winding off the damping completely and compressing the shock rapidly with a hide hammer.
If the shock still does not return to normal operation then you probably need to take the shock apart and take the shock shaft to a specialist for First Aid