A forum for owners of Yamaha TTR250 trail and enduro bikes!

z1g · Senior Member

2005 ttr250 electrical problems? just will not start after a dufus mistake. SOLVED #happydays

mossproof · Super Guru

2005 ttr250 electrical problems? just will not start after a dufus mistake.

Gerry atric69 · Veteran Member

Welcome Z1g.
As above try those suggested by Mossproof but the main point is Don't Panic there will be an answer to your situation.
I'm no expert unlike others on here who are very experienced with the marque and they can solve everything cos it's bound to have happened before.
I also know what the pressure from SWMBO is like and that sometimes interferes with logic.
Hope the help here sorts you out .

-- Edited by Gerry atric69 on Sunday 1st of April 2018 07:51:26 AM

TTRfan · Super Guru

Welcome to the forum z1g!!!

I have been struck down by the dreaded man flu and my brain is like cotton wool so it will be a few more days before I can weigh in with anything helpful disbelief

However, we have a growing number of owners who are now able to offer help and advice so I am sure you will get the help you need to get your TTR going again - starting off with Simon's excellent advice wink

Brian

z1g · Senior Member

Hi all.
Thanks for the encouraging words.
Simon. I'll have to re:read what you have said. But this is how it unfolded.

Bike with no battery, so used a jumper cable from car... *seemed liked a bad idea even at the time*
Bike dies.
I leave it, and wait to buy new battery. Install that. NADA.
Download manual (which is for a c model i have an LC) not sure if there is a difference, i assume as to me the colour codes appear to be different. But remain unsure.
Initially i though, oh bugger i have stuffed the starter motor....
Did what any non mech does.... time for youtube.
Looked up you tube, for how to test starter motor.... mines still on the bike. But i by passed the starter relay. And jumpered it to the battery. And it does move. But not continuously? Starts then stops after a few seconds, then i hit the battery again?
Then read the manual, and followed the steps to find out where it may be.
ignition switch. Seems fine
Run/engine switch seems fine
manual talks about clutch/stand switch, but cable colours appear to be different.??? So unsure which colours are what switch at this stage
took spark plug out.
Meassured gap. Adjusted as to manual specs???
Placed spark plug on cyclinder head, and tried to hit the starter from battery via jumpers, no spark at all?
Thanks heaps for helping all.
with a bit of guidance i am sure i can get it to fire up.
best
z

z1g · Senior Member

Bike :) prob does not help. But here she sits.

mossproof · Super Guru

Ah, if you're spinning the starter over by direct power, then if one of the inhibitor switches (clutch, neutral, sidestand) is not operating properly, you won't get a spark.
If you put power to the starter motor directly and it doesn't spin continuously, that's definitely one of your problems.
Trying to go through what you did to begin with, I suspect that you had no spark, and may have cooked the starter motor by over use. If the ignition is on and everything lights up on the dash, you should be able to see a spark using the kicker if everything else is working properly. If no spark - time to start tracing wires to the inhibitor system.
Sorry I can't be more help from here, it's a headscratcher for sure.

ttboof · Super Guru

if you have the solenoid clicking when you are pushing the start button it confirms the switches ext are all ok .

the one that can interfere with the spark is the side stand one (mine was removed from new so dont have any experience with them (its in a box in the shed i think .

if you have bypassed the solenoid with power straight to the starter ( bridging the heavy terminals on the solenoid does the same thing if the battery is ok ) , and it doesn't want to turn id say its most likely worn starter bushes (turns intermittently and stops all together (which would show up with a new battery as everything working and the solenoid clicking and no crank .

brushes are the most common fault with the starter , and a relatively easy fix .

as for no spark the TTR has very few problems , if it was trying to fire and has now stopped if it has bad fuel and wont start and has possibly fouled the plug ,sometimes carbon build up on the insulator in the plug which looks ok wont spark as the power is tracking back up the insulator and not across the gap .

keep[ it simple get the starter cranking , clean fuel, fresh plug and cross your fingers .

looking forward to hearing how you progress , its pretty basic if you brake it down into pieces .

would have responded earlier but have been ive out of commission for a couple of weeks . the body is all back together and working well

z1g · Senior Member

Again thank you all for you input. And patience. I am SLOWLY learning.
To all you're points.
I'll buy a new plug tomorrow. Should be done anyway.
If i disconnect the side stand switch and then hit the starter motor with jumpers from NEW battery, i should see some spark? Failing that kick it it over. And see??
The relay, is a bit of a mystery to me, as i hear a click, but due to inexperince not sure if it's a REAL click. (It makes a noise)
I know that when battery is in, starter relay is in, and i hit the electric start, nothing happens, but a click.

Side note: the fuel was disgusting when bought. I have placed a fuel filter on it and have tried with new fuel i only used the old fuel when jump starting it from car on day 1.
to my VERY VERY limited understanding. I initally thought stuffed the starter, but got some joy knowing that it does spin (a bit) so then thought relay was the problem. Then discovered no spark.. so that has thrown me out a bit.

just to be clear, i do have a 2005 ttr250 (c) manual, i have an LC model. Not sure what/if there is any difference. But the manual says to test step 9) pickup coil resistance noting the wires should be white/red and white/blue. I can not see these

manual step 6 says, coil primary should be 0.36 ohm - 0.48ohm , mine jumps about but have read that value *kinda*
secondary says 5.44 ohm - 7.36 ohm, mines in the thousands??? Like 17.

Steps that i have complete are 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 says test spark plug cap resisistence mine does not seem to want come of the lead??? 6 see above, 7, 8, 9 see above.

Anyway thanks again, hanging in there.
best
z

.

Base · Senior Member

This might be a bit obvious but have you actually checked the condition of the 'new' battery? Resting voltage and voltage under cranking?

micccki · Veteran Member

If you can spin the starter by applying direct voltage, get someone to push the starter button whilst doing so to test the inhibitor switches. It should fire up if petrol and spark are ok. Taking the problem now to the solenoid. I fitted one from i believe an Aprillia 650 Pegaso. Check ebay, connectors were the same for mine.

z1g · Senior Member

Hi again.
Battery tests @ 12.67 v right now. Have not trickle charged it since last test.
Not sure how to test resting voltage/under cranking? Do you mean just testing the volts whilst hitting the start button with battery via jumpers? And see what it drops down to... voltage drop????
Pic of spark plug, has been re gapped, and sanded but oil is original as it was when i got it etc...

Not the best of pics as lights etc..

All suggestions welcome, failing that will be taking it to people that charge $150 hr to figure it out. Would like to avoid this and learn something along the way.

Bike was sold to me as, add fuel, hit start and go.... but i think i have buggered it up!!! Live and learn (and pay $$$ to fix it up again) :)

Also old man + kick starting = heart attack :) i bought it because it was that easy electric start.... *jokes* for what it's worth i have kick started it and feels like heaps of compression to me. Hoping to avoid ever having to have to do this though.

-- Edited by z1g on Monday 2nd of April 2018 12:32:40

-- Edited by z1g on Monday 2nd of April 2018 12:43:45 PM

z1g · Senior Member

I bought a brand new spark plug. NGK CR9E
I switched the engine/stop switch to the on position
I turned the key to on.
I taped up the clutch to the bar grip to simulate clutch pulled in.
I disabled the kickstand switch (and repeated the test with the stand up - see below)
I placed new spark plug into cap.
Placed it on top of cylnder head, and kicked it over
NO obvious spark
I placed spark plug on frame.
NO obvious spark

any ideas? Or suggestions on trying something out
best
z.

Edit: was this the correct procedure?

99-06 manual here

Uploadfiles.io/pggaa

-- Edited by z1g on Tuesday 3rd of April 2018 10:19:28 AM

z1g · Senior Member

f you can spin the starter by applying direct voltage, get someone to push the starter button whilst doing so to test the inhibitor switches. It should fire up if petrol and spark are ok. Taking the problem now to the solenoid. I fitted one from i believe an Aprillia 650 Pegaso. Check ebay, connectors were the same for mine.

I fitted tank. And switched the tanks pea co ck??? to on.
hit the starter from jumpers via battery by passing relay. Pressing the electric start button
nothing. Kicking it, still nothing???
*starting to smell lemons*

Thinking i need to replace bits.

But what first?

Relay

Coil

Starter motor

Stator????

Cdi

All a bit over my head.

Cheers all for helping.

-- Edited by z1g on Tuesday 3rd of April 2018 12:04:13 PM

micccki · Veteran Member

First i would try to get it to turn over without any jumper. Is the solenoid still clicking when you just push the starter button?

If it is.......use something like a pointed nose pliers to bridge the 2 terminals on the solenoid. If it spins over.... new solenoid.

If it still does not spin, use a good car battery with jumper leads to the two battery terminals.

Still not spinning? Connect earth off car battery jumper to bolt on the engine. Is there a good earth and connections from your battery to the engine and frame. (Maybe this has been discussed previously, but i have not re read the topic).

If it still does not spin over, starter is suspect.

I would try these first before looking for spark. You could go down the spark route, and it should start easily off the kick start, but you would need to try a working CDI and coil. unless there are any obvious loose wires.

You mentioned earlier a possible noise from the solenoid. If it is a hissing noise, that could indicate a bad/loose connection on the main battery leads. I would remove the tank, as ther could be a few arcing sparks by crossing the terminals, and make sure the handles of the pliers are insulated as they could get hot.

Hope you get it sorted.

Base · Senior Member

As with most replies to this, youve got to methodically eliminate things, dont jump from this to that and back again.

General advice only.

No spark?

Step 1.

You've replaced the plug.

Crank - still no spark (Make sure kill switch is ON or perhaps remove it all together by removing the lead)

Step 2.

Check the lead from the spark plug to the coil. (Breaks, loose, resistance test)

Check coil, probably just easiest to buy a new one they aren't expensive. If you have a spare try that.

Crank - still no spark

Step 3.

Check Stator (Produces electricity)

Follow wires where they protrude from engine and follow up to a plug. Disconnect and perform resistance test on these wires leading to the stator. Or voltage test whilst cranking. (Wires to check and resistance should be in service manual if you have it)

If you get a fault it may well be you need to replace the stator.

If all checks out ok

Step 4.

Possibly CDI box, which is a replace job and aren't cheap.

As previously stated Starter Solenoid. Check or just replace, again they aren't expensive.

Starter motor expensive to replace, better to repair with brush kit etc.

Work methodically and eliminate each thing as you go.

Cheers

Cam.

(If Im wrong about any of the above please feel free to correct me, Im no expert)

Base · Senior Member

Link to the service manual.

Electrical test section at the end.

www.google.com.au/url

Base · Senior Member

In fact thinking about it some more, did you get the engine to fire at all initially? Did you get smoke or anything out the exhaust?

If so at some stage you had spark, so the first thing I'd check is the coil.

If the coil failed at some stage and you had no spark, continuous cranking may have cooked the solenoid or at worst the starter.

Cheers,
Cam

TTRfan · Super Guru

Good to see the really helpful suggestions flowing wink

Lots more here http://ttr250.activeboard.com/t45670479/help-my-ttr250-wont-start/

Brian

z1g · Senior Member

Base wrote:
Link to the service manual.

Electrical test section at the end.

www.google.com.au/url

I tried to download this a few times, but it failed.

I think i already have this manual, and am referring to it. (See my post with a link to it)

Many thanks

z1g · Senior Member

Really appreciate all you guys input.
I am reading every post, and trying my best to work through the problems.
I wish i had a bit more time to do more research. On it all. It's the best way to learn.
Again thank all.
I'm using a tablet device so on some forums it's a bit tricky.

Someone mentioned did it have spark initially.
I have two videos of it, the day before it was picked up, showing it running.
First video he jumped it from car (but i do not think his car was running - at the time did not even think anything of it)
Sounded fine to me, shows no smoke from exhaust, and just ticking over nicely., 2nd video shows him, stopping the bike, and then restarting it. But hitting the electric start button.hits the button, fires right away.

The bike was located about 4 1/2 hrs away from where i live, so a 9 hr round trip. Country bike. < 5k on clock. It was cheaper to get a courier to pick it up. For the time/money. I have very few doubts the person i bought it off was not 100%honest. At this stage i'm to blame for the problems until proven other wise.

Again been such a long time since i have had a bike.

Will try and work through the situation, at the moment, i'm thinking i may have more than one problem.???? Which at my skill level has thrown me right off.

Also when i jump started it on DAY 1, it was trying to fire up. It was making all the correct noises, and seemed like it was getting to much fuel, as every time i gave it some twist of the throttle it seemed to die. I WRONGFULLY assumed i was flooding it. When this happened i waited a bit, and tried it again, this went on for about 5 minutes, before it totally died.
i feel like a bit of a dick actually. It's embarrassing.
Best z

Thanks for links. Will be reading any link others think might help.

Edit : pic of the manual i'm working from think its chapter 7??? Not sure

-- Edited by z1g on Wednesday 4th of April 2018 12:06:38 PM

z1g · Senior Member

z1g wrote:
Really appreciate all you guys input.
I am reading every post, and trying my best to work through the problems.
I wish i had a bit more time to do more research. On it all. It's the best way to learn.
Again thank all.
I'm using a tablet device so on some forums it's a bit tricky.

Someone mentioned did it have spark initially.
I have two videos of it, the day before it was picked up, showing it running.
First video he jumped it from car (but i do not think his car was running - at the time did not even think anything of it)
Sounded fine to me, shows no smoke from exhaust, and just ticking over nicely., 2nd video shows him, stopping the bike, and then restarting it. But hitting the electric start button.hits the button, fires right away.
The bike was located about 4 1/2 hrs away from where i live, so a 9 hr round trip. Country bike. < 5k on clock. It was cheaper to get a courier to pick it up. For the time/money. I have very few doubts the person i bought it off was not 100%honest. At this stage i'm to blame for the problems until proven other wise.
Again been such a long time since i have had a bike.

Will try and work through the situation, at the moment, i'm thinking i may have more than one problem.???? Which at my skill level has thrown me right off.
Also when i jump started it on DAY 1, it was trying to fire up. It was making all the correct noises, and seemed like it was getting to much fuel, as every time i gave it some twist of the throttle it seemed to die. I WRONGFULLY assumed i was flooding it. When this happened i waited a bit, and tried it again, this went on for about 5 minutes, before it totally died.
i feel like a bit of a dick actually. It's embarrassing.
Best z

Thanks for links. Will be reading any link others think might help.

Edit : pic of the manual i'm working from think its chapter 7??? Not sure

I'm slowly working through others suggestions. Please be a bit patient. Will post what happens. I'm sure bike will run, just a question of when and how much :)

-- Edited by z1g on Wednesday 4th of April 2018 01:20:44 PM

z1g · Senior Member

*update*

Goal #1 - get spark first.

So..
Starting to test things correctly.and not be so precious about the bike,

Tonight pulled the starter relay off. *bugger had to cut the 2005 zip ties* :) not original now!!!! Moving on....

Pulled the spark plug cap off. (Step 5)
-----------------------------------------------
Manual says test spark plug cap resistence.
Should be 10 ohm - mine is 9.82 ohm

Tested coil (step 6)
-----------------------------------------------
Primary should be 0.36ohm - 0.48ohm - mine is 03.2 ohm????????????
Secondary should be 5.44ohm - 7.36 ohm - mine is 6.37 ohm

Doing things after work @ on weekends.
cheers
z

-- Edited by z1g on Thursday 5th of April 2018 02:17:58 PM

Base · Senior Member

Did you set the ohm meter per the manual per each component? Ie. X100,x1k, x1 etc.

-- Edited by Base on Thursday 5th of April 2018 11:24:58 PM

z1g · Senior Member

Base wrote:
Did you set the ohm meter per the manual per each component? Ie. X100,x1k, x1 etc.

-- Edited by Base on Thursday 5th of April 2018 11:24:58 PM

Hi Base.

Yes I did.

My MM reads 200, 2k,20k,200k?

I am pretty sure i did this right, did it several times. Forgive my ignorance the manual says switch MM to ohm symbol X 1.

Spoke to a guy at the wreckers re:coil, he thinks take the bike to XYZ as he is great and quick at diagnosing problems. And does not rip people of. As much as i would love to fix the problem myself. Personally i feel, i could get caught up in, buy new 2nd hand bits, and still not solve it. I am thinking for this problem, and my lack of overall knowledge best to take it to someone that just does this 8 hrs a day.

It pains me to do this, but i think ultimately it will be the quickest and easiest/and hopefully cheapest way to solve this. I have been a bit down about how this bike has played out, but remain optimist about it. Been years that i have had to look into bike problems, so even just having this happens has given me a basic (very very basic) understanding of what's happening.

As always, the only real concern is this now turns a reasonably cheap bike (i think i paid market value for it) into a possibly expensive bike. BUT thats anything these days.

As an example, i could pay say $20-$40 for a new coil, and still not solve the problem. Money might be better spent on someone that actually knows bikes inside and out, and that $40 spent can solve the problem instantly.

Its a tough call. I'll be learning all the time from now on.

Edit: still want to thank everyone that attempted to help. I'll be back with noob questions i am sure. This one is a bit out of my pay grade :) plus just want the effer working.

-- Edited by z1g on Friday 6th of April 2018 10:58:47 AM

Base · Senior Member

Well be sure to let us know what the problem turned out to be when you find out. We all make mistakes with things sometimes, but hopefully we can all learn from this. Good luck.

z1g · Senior Member

Just for anybody that has read this thread.

Bit of an update.
Last week, my cousin who is a electrician BUT more importantly a bike rider was meant to come and have a look at it.
Due to his work commitments, he was unable.

He dropped round today, and answered a few questions that i had asked.
Tested spark... fine (not sure why he got spark and i did not)

Tested a few parts. And has recommended to replace the relay. (It ticks, but he thinks this is not quite right based on a few other things)
Also, he managed to kickstart it a few times and get it to fire up, but not idle. (We roll started it as well)

So he reckons there is some fuel blockage, and has recommended to me to remove carby, and he will clean it for me. Given the history of the bike, been sitting for years, i guess it may have gummed up a bit? We both are scratching heads about how it was running in the first place (on the videos the guy sent)

Feeling better about the bike, knowing it wants to start, just not be able to....

Once its starts and runs, will update thread. But it's looking real promising.
best
z

TTRfan · Super Guru

Either fit a new pilot jet or really clean the existing one well. Ultrasonic cleaners and carb cleaners don't do it. It needs reaming with a bit of copper wire to be absolutely sure the jet is clean.

Ether · Member

Getting it started is a great sign. It's weird you couldn't get spark but he could.

z1g · Senior Member

Yeah, during his testing it was all go go go. Next time i see him with the carb. I will get clarification. As i am curious myself.
At this stage and being a total noob... all that was different was he put battery/coil/relay on THEN kickstarted it. Basically put bike back together again.
I was under the impression i was dealing with two different systems, i'll find out and report back. Learning as i go. So bike was back together, all switches on, then kickstarted.... and spark?
Sorry for any confusion.
Best z
Just for reference, bike tried to fire up, but just would not idle.(it would die instantly) This happened a dozen times. Was told to p1ss the fuel filter off that i added. We temp used the tank breather hose removing the old fuel line and fuel filter. He opened up the screw to carby bowl??? To see fuel getting into it. Not sure what happened??? Just trying to stay out of the way really....

Will be doing.

New fuel hose. I cut mine and added a fuel filter

New relay

Remove carb for a clean.

He is unsure of starter and suggested i get it tested. But thinks it may be ok. (It's Not a concern right now until other things eliminated first)

I think he is more concerned with power being delivered to starter motor??? As we did try jump starting it via car using full circuit battery to battery -> relay -> starter (i'm guessing) also suggested my jumper cables may be defective (old/cheap) which they are. His was in another vehicle.

Plus FULL battery charge.

I guess one step at a time

-- Edited by z1g on Wednesday 18th of April 2018 12:27:00 PM

mossproof · Super Guru

I've been away a bit. Nice to come back and see some progress - it's firing at least! I'm sure the spark issue was just something you were overlooking that your cousin spotted. Certainly sounds like a good clean carb will make a difference (and I've heard all sorts of things about in-line filters not being as good as you'd hope. I don't bother. Rely on the in-tank fueltap filter and making sure the fuel I put in is clean to start with)
Good luck, I see a glimmer of light at the end of the tunnel, but I can't hear a train!
Simon.

z1g · Senior Member

Thanks all.
Just a couple of pics.
Carb is out.
Carb was meant to be cleaned today, but my cousin was working. Hopefully sometime this week.

*fingers crossed*

TTRfan · Super Guru

Remind your cousin to ream the pilot jet with a bit of copper wire wink

ttr steve · Super Guru

What was the state of the carb inlet stub?

Base · Senior Member

Thats certainly a clean looking bike. Even the carb looks pretty good, on the outside at least. Should be a great bike once you get it sorted.

ttr steve · Super Guru

Had to go back and look at the photo, yep one very nice bike. Once the problems are sorted you should be very happy smile

z1g · Senior Member

Hi again.
Waiting on my cousin. He is super busy, so trying to do my best.

Decided to at least do a bit of a carb clean (without opening it up)
Poured some petrol into a container and swished the carb from side to side. For about 5 minutes. Opened the throttle valve a few times.
The amount of dirt that came out of it was amazing to me. (Looks like super fine dust/sand)

See pic. Green rag... anything with dirt on it came from carb after swishing in a container for 5 minutes.
Also, thanks for thinking its clean. I guess it is, but i have been wd40'ing it as i go along cleaning it.
It is pretty clean, most of the mess is just sand. *country bike*
And not that much really. Pics might not be showing it.
If i do not hear from my cousin next couple of days, will put it all back together and try it.

Best z

Ummm in defene of my cousin, it's prob a 45min one way trip to my place. So (90 min) Return

-- Edited by z1g on Monday 23rd of April 2018 03:55:02 PM

TTRfan · Super Guru

You are only three screws (holding on the float bowl) away from getting out the pilot jet for a clean z biggrin

It really is worth doing that before putting the carb back on - you don't want to be doing that work again?

Brian

z1g · Senior Member

TTRfan wrote:
You are only three screws (holding on the float bowl) away from getting out the pilot jet for a clean z
It really is worth doing that before putting the carb back on - you don't want to be doing that work again?
Brian

Thanks brian,

If my cuss. Is to busy this week. I'll be trying things myself. And fumbling like like every other noob.

Thanks z

TTRfan · Super Guru

Lots of info here to help http://ttr250.activeboard.com/t47674647/carburettor-pictorial-guide-to-stripping-and-checking-a-carb/ wink

But, if you aren't feeling confident, just take off the float bowl and remove the pilot jet for a "clean and ream" biggrin

If the carb hasn't been apart in a while then probably best to fit a new float bowl gasket whilst you are about it - see http://totallyttrs.com/epages/699105d9-e4cc-4b32-b236-84e72cd67f84.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/699105d9-e4cc-4b32-b236-84e72cd67f84/Products/TTR-0056

z1g · Senior Member

TTRfan wrote:
Lots of info here to help http://ttr250.activeboard.com/t47674647/carburettor-pictorial-guide-to-stripping-and-checking-a-carb/
But, if you aren't feeling confident, just take off the float bowl and remove the pilot jet for a "clean and ream"
If the carb hasn't been apart in a while then probably best to fit a new float bowl gasket whilst you are about it - see http://totallyttrs.com/epages/699105d9-e4cc-4b32-b236-84e72cd67f84.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/699105d9-e4cc-4b32-b236-84e72cd67f84/Products/TTR-0056

Thank you for the links brian. These are great!!! Great carb guide something i will be referring to i am sure. Later in week.

Pickup new relay, left is old one, right is new one. I bought BRAND new, not 2nd hand.

Plus my old fuel line with inline fuel filter. I am still not convinced i should not have something like this. But cousin says it's a bad idea. :)

Edit: yep, that remove carb tute from youtube is the one i followed.

-- Edited by z1g on Tuesday 24th of April 2018 11:13:49 AM

Base · Senior Member

I've got an inline filter on mine. Works fine no issues. Probably work just as well without it as well.

z1g · Senior Member

Base wrote:
I've got an inline filter on mine. Works fine no issues. Probably work just as well without it as well.

Yeah i'm thinking i will use one. Why not as long as it does not hinder fuel flow right???

Update, put on my big boy pants.

And started to disassemble the carb.

As always, my luck is always sh1t out of it. The float bowl (3 screws). Two of them came off easy.

But the last one!!!!!!!!!!! Had me chucking all kinds of things, after stabbing myself with screw driver etc....

Anyway after stripping the last screw, and thinking RIGHT BIKE FOR SALE. I calmed down, and wd 40 it. Hit it with a chisel to remake the groove.

Just as i was about to give up.... boom. Using a flat head screw driver, seemed to remove the last screw. MUCH to my shagrin.???????

Anyway, pics show what i am dealing with. Will post day light pics as these are night time pics, but even still you should be able to see the amount of cr4p..... shock horror. I guess 3-4 years not being used does this?? Reminds me of a girl i used to know.... super pretty on the outside, pure evil on the inside :)

Cheers everyone for helping me.

TTRfan · Super Guru

Great progress!

It sounds like cleaning the pilot jet will be easy compared to getting that bolt out biggrin

Looking forward to the next instalment smile

Brian

z1g · Senior Member

TTRfan wrote:
Great progress!
It sounds like cleaning the pilot jet will be easy compared to getting that bolt out
Looking forward to the next instalment
Brian

Hi brian,

Just realised, the youtube vid i watched was you. *i think*

Thanks for doing that vid mate. Was really great to watch and follow along.

Hey not trying to spam, but took a few more pics tonight, as i''ll be doing (trying to clean) the carb tomoz (after work). But wanted to at least document it.

Ok, shows the "rubbish that dropped out of float bowl". That i pressed my finger on to crush it, basically sand,dirt that breaks down into micro dust. The stuff seen that is not micro dust is a worry to me!!!

One is of the screws, showing *hopefully* the most right hand side screw NACKERED real lucky to not have messed this up more, and had to drill it out.

And just another pic of the general mess in float. Hoping it may help other noobs like me that may be in the same situation.

Cheers

Edit: wondering if carb has been open since 2005 (13 yrs ago)????

-- Edited by z1g on Thursday 26th of April 2018 04:08:53 PM

z1g · Senior Member

Couple of quick pics.
Pulled the "jets" out both were blocked , could not see through them.
Then after a bit of a clean. Seem to look a bit better.
Well at least i can see daylight whilst looking through them.
One pic, is dirty, the other shows a bit of cleaning.
NFI what i am doing really. Hope this is right.
best z.

Excuse me if i have terminology wrong. Still learning.

Not sure if i should take float off or not???

-- Edited by z1g on Friday 27th of April 2018 12:35:11 PM

TTRfan · Super Guru

Always good to find something that probably lies at the root of the problem wink

Just make sure you ream the pilot with a bit of copper wire to make absolutely sure no crud is left lurking in there wink

As you are a bit unsure on the carb work then don't try removing the float unless there is a problem such as a worn needle valve that is allowing the float bowl to overflow.

An easy test is to blow through the fuel inlet pipe and work the float up and down. In the down position you should get a good flow of air through which would mean that it is unlikely the float valve filter is blocked. If it shuts down with the float in the up (closed) position against your blow pressure then it should be sealing OK. You will be able to tell if its leaking.

z1g · Senior Member

2005 ttr250 electrical problems? just will not start after a dufus mistake. SOLVED #happydays

mossproof · Super Guru

Excellent news, well done!
Enjoy the ride out.

Base · Senior Member

Good to hear its running.

Let us know how the ride goes.