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Post Info TOPIC: Sump plug issues mega thread - plug stuck in, threads stripped, leaking etc.


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RE: Leaky sump plug
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I hope this isn't catching! Maybe the oil is warmer and therefore a bit thinner in Australia wink

I have some spare washers here and am happy to post one out to each of you to try if you like?

Brian



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TTRfan wrote:

I hope this isn't catching! Maybe the oil is warmer and therefore a bit thinner in Australia wink

I have some spare washers here and am happy to post one out to each of you to try if you like?

Brian


I'm good Brian thanks for the offer. I still have the old copper washer so i will just anneal it. Love the sump plug though

To be honest a copper washer is about $2.00 for you to send it would be more.

..................

Jarrah.



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TTRfan wrote:

I hope this isn't catching! Maybe the oil is warmer and therefore a bit thinner in Australia wink


I'm not casting aspersions on your mag plugs Brian, there fine, it's just the seals that are a bit to hard

I'll just use some plumbers tape if I can't find some suitable fibre seals.

and yes it does seem to leak more in the summer, it was 37 here the other day furious

 



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I always put a dab of Loctite 577 on the treads.
This product IMO is one of the finest things I have on the shelf of my garage, its brilliant for sump plugs to plumbing fittings including gas, there are no problems when dissmantling. It has good shelf life to.

http://www.loctite.co.uk/cps/rde/xchg/henkel_uke/hs.xsl/fullproduct-list-loctite-4995.htm?iname=Loctite+577&countryCode=uke&BU=industrial&parentredDotUID=productfinder&redDotUID=1000000IY7U



-- Edited by colin13846 on Thursday 3rd of January 2013 12:41:25 PM



-- Edited by colin13846 on Thursday 3rd of January 2013 12:42:06 PM

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Oil Drain Plug - stuck in!
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Despite being very careful, I can't remove the oil drain plug due to the Hexagon being "rounded", I can't understand as cleaned it all off externally and used a well fitting good quality (Facom) 12mm ring spanner.  Apart from the fact that I want to change the oil, any suggestions will be much appreciated.  I guess I'll be able to order a new drain plug when Brian and Trish return from their holiday, but I'll still need to get the old one out-----------------

Cheers,

Robin.



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RE: Oil Drain Plug
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Bad luck Robin. A few suggestions here. Molegrips first and, if no success, a hammer and cold chisel!

Brian

PS Back home tomorrow afternoon if all goes to plan.....



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The previous owner of my bike was an ape. Nothing I tried got the drain plug and oil filler cap out. Then my buddy pulled out a set of these.

www.youtube.com/watch

Tap the socket on GENTLY at first until it gets a good seat and a long bar to add leverage. both my plugs came right out.

You will need to buy new plugs. A metric car plug worked from my auto store, $2 USD

Good luck

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20150326_082124.jpg20150326_082519.jpgMismo problema, martillo y destornillador que tenga muy poco filo. Suerte!!



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mypobox wrote:

The previous owner of my bike was an ape. Nothing I tried got the drain plug and oil filler cap out. Then my buddy pulled out a set of these.

www.youtube.com/watch

Tap the socket on GENTLY at first until it gets a good seat and a long bar to add leverage. both my plugs came right out.

You will need to buy new plugs. A metric car plug worked from my auto store, $2 USD

Good luck


those tools look very handy, never seen one before, if you can get one all good

If you can't you could do what I did, drill a hole in a small piece of 25 x 3mm flat steel plate the size of the drain plug nut and weld it on, worked a treat for me

I even left it on there for quite a while, till I got a magnetic plug from Brian, as mypobox says, you might get one from an auto store.

Sorry No pic to show you

 

WOW, just had a look on Ebay, $26.00 US for 1 socket, 15mm x 3/8 drive no

Stick to the welder biggrin if you can, way cheaper

 

 

 

 



-- Edited by BM Steve on Thursday 26th of March 2015 12:05:49 PM

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ebay is not the best price.

www.amazon.com/Irwin-Industrial-Tools-394001-Bolt-Grip/dp/B0000CCXVZ/ref=sr_1_5

This is USA so maybe its more over there.

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yep, your probably right, I don't even think you can get them here though

Ebay can be quite pricey sometimes



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The good news is you just need to find a buddy with a set. They dont get used often but when you need it, its priceless. My plugs were STUCK BADLY. I tried everything.

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Thanks for the replies folks, A bit late maybe, but I now have a 6 point socket!
Hope to have another look at the problem tomorrow.
Robin.

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Sump plug issues mega thread - plug stuck in, threads stripped, leaking etc.
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And------------------I bought a nice new 6 point, tapped it on firmly and out came the drain plug, no trouble. I'm feeling relieved and a bit foolish, the drain plug was good enough to go back in with confidence, and yes, I annealed the copper washer. When I next order goodies I'll get one of Brian's posh magnetic drain plugs.
Thanks for the advice,
Robin.



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A good lesson for us all Robin!

Good to hear it ended well for you wink

Brian



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I don't own any double hex sockets for this very reason...

Metrinch sockets or spanners are worth having.. they drive on the

flat of the nut or bolt not the corners as normal sockets/spanners do

they remove stuffed nuts/bolts as they don't require the corners

to drive on...



-- Edited by petenz on Monday 30th of March 2015 07:31:51 AM

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Sump plug issues thread - plug stuck in, threads stripped, leaking etc.
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I noticed a recurring problem with rounded sump plugs so thought I'd post my solution.

20150426_110114.jpg



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Hey everyone, I'm going to order a new magnetic sump plug, a US brand called dimple, fitted with neodymium magnet

I could check but I would have to drain the oil but want to get the new pug before the next oil change

So I need the bolt size, length, and thread pitch

Thanks

 

..



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Sump Plug size and pitch
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M12 x 1.5
Just checked an old mangled one I had kept for some reason... now I know the reason I kept it!

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image.jpeg

image.jpeg

Heres an attempt to with my plastic micro measure



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Thanks paul, that's what I thought it was but good to know now

Mark, I think I'm seeing it correctly but is the bolt length 9-10mm ??

 

Thanks for your help

I'll post some pics up when I get the new plugs

 



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length 15mm





...

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Thanks Pete

Perfect

..

 



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Sump plug issues thread - plug stuck in, threads stripped, leaking etc.
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Hi, has anyone successfully repaired the threading on a sump when the threading has gone. The sump plug itself is fine but the threading has worn

on it and the bolt won't tighten. Would a helicoil repair be strong enough or would it need something better. Has anyone run into this issue before?

 

John

 

 



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RE: sump plug thread.
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Yep - I helicoiled a sump plug thread for a mate a long time ago.  He didn't have a garage or workshop so we did it on the pavement outside his flat with the TTR on its stand.

We should really have put the TTR on its side as I didn't quite get the hole at 90 degrees to the casing so there was a slight weep using the standard plain washer. A Dowty washer cured it though wink

Brian



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Thanks for the replies. I have looked up the timesert and helicoil and the timesert does seem to be a strong repair so i must look into where i could get one of them done. Failing that the helicoil route i will have to go.

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what size is the sump bung...
had it out so meany times & can't remember...

Now if it is a 12mm.... you can retap the hole with a 1/2" UNC thread
1/2" is 12.7mm.... so no drilling just run the tap stright in the hole...




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Sump plug issues thread - plug stuck in, threads stripped, leaking etc.
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I didn't start the problem, but i'm in the middle of it now.  previous owner left me a well rounded oil drain plug.   I tried a reverse fluted bolt extractor,  with me impact driver, but just finished off rounding it off.  I don't have access to heat for the bolt.  I tried a chisel and hammer to knock it counter clockwise prior to the bolt extractor.  Divots seen in the flange are from previous owner attempts.  

IMG_2218.JPG

 

Lovely, right?  



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RE: stripped oil drain plug!
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Wow

You have your work cut out therenonono

Has anyone you know got a hot air/ paint stripping gun, I think the only way that is coming out is with a bit of heat.

Good luck!



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I had similar and cut a slot across the drain plug with a thin disc on a grinder wide enough to slot the middle bit of a spanner in. Must have added some heat as it worked a treat.
Still don't know what the middle bit of a spanner is called though.

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The shank is the bit of the spanner between the open jaws on each end. wink

Martyn



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You could use a hot air gun or use one of those electric soldering irons and hold it on the bolt head and see if that would transfer a bit of heat directly to the bolt itself, kinda of like one of those induction heaters. File a couple of flat sides to the bolt head first and try a pair of vise grips on it then. Maybe disconnect the battery first to be safe.
Worth a shot anyway


John

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if its a metal plug weld a larger nut on it will undo but keep petrol away such as carb full be very very carefull

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The old sump plug i swapped for a gold plug had an 11m socket welded to it haha. Worked pretty well to get it off

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I have a mechanic friend who is going to take a look at it, hopefully this weekend. Thanks for the support!



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stripped oil drain (sump) plug!
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Funny how it's ALWAYS the previous owner who rounds the plugs!! :)

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I got mine out with big vice grips after I rounded mine off. Do yourself a favour and get a totally ttrs gold magnetic sump plug as a replacement. Ducks guts wink



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IMG_2231.JPG

My friend used conductive heat device (?)  chisel and hammer, got the damaged one out.  New plug placed.  Nothing fancy right now, will upgrade to magnetic one later. 



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If it's steel I think welding a nut to it is your best bet, as Johnnyboy says. This will also give it the heat shock treatment.
Devon Rich's slot cutting trick might work if there's enough meat left . You might end up drilling out the centre a bit until you can hammer in a torx bit.
Good luck!
Simon.

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Sump plug issues mega thread - plug stuck in, threads stripped, leaking etc.
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I didn't think I was going to get this sump plug out but a bit of heat and persistence with a hammer and cold chisel won the day!

20171209_171045.jpg  20171209_171040.jpg



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strewth you were lucky to get that one out without damaging the sump

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z1g


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Sump plug....stripped, bugger, thank god for this.
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Tried to remove original sump plug.

Would not budge. And ended up stripping the nut.

Thank god for this little kit. Have had it for years, this is only the second time i have used it.

Well worth the money. Hate to think what i would have had to do, without this.

Now i just spend a $10 on a new sump plug. I wonder why it was on so tight in the first place.

Z.

It paid for itself today!!! :)

20180511_234250.jpg

-- Edited by z1g on Friday 11th of May 2018 03:03:08 PM



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I just stripped the thread on the tank retainer bit. I didn't even tighten it that much, it must have been weak already. Luckily I can still slide the tank under it so even though it's stuck in place it doesn't really matter. I might eventually try and get the bolt out and attach a longer bolt with a nut on the other side. Stripping threads is about the most annoying thing in vehicle repair. 



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z1g wrote:

Tried to remove original sump plug.

Would not budge. And ended up stripping the nut.

Thank god for this little kit. Have had it for years, this is only the second time i have used it.

Well worth the money. Hate to think what i would have had to do, without this.

Now i just spend a $10 on a new sump plug. I wonder why it was on so tight in the first place.

Z.

It paid for itself today!!! :)

 on Friday 11th of May 2018 03:03:08 PM


 they are the same as meinch sockets and spanners.... drive on the nuts flat not the corners..

http://www.google.co.nz/url?url=http://www.metrinch.tv/&rct=j&frm=1&q=&esrc=s&sa=U&ved=0ahUKEwjRxtSlpP_aAhVFWLwKHeMmA1MQFggqMAA&usg=AOvVaw3t4r5bL54fXVBhe7-sZbEX

 

 

 

.

 



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z1g


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Petenz, that looks like a very comprehesive bit of kit.
I think i paid about $30-$50 delivered (ebay buy). I remember thinking bloody lot of money to remove one stripped nut. *originally*
Thankfully, it saved my bacon yesterday.
Initially i could not find it in shed, and thought i had lost it. Made me think now what?, drill it out??? My skill level would have messed it right up.
Honestly could not beileve how tight it was, i had sprayed with wd40 night before, couple of gentle taps with hammer to try and loosen it up.
Then all hell broke loose, spanner, socket, nothing work, or would even loosen it.
i think it's worth having something like this for *those* moments. :)
Glad to hear i'm not the only one.
Z

You know something is tight, when the bike moves when trying to unscrew something!!!



-- Edited by z1g on Saturday 12th of May 2018 10:12:50 AM

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New one in, this is old one. Was crazy getting this off!! Again, kit did it's job.



-- Edited by z1g on Tuesday 15th of May 2018 03:20:23 PM

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Sump plug issues mega thread - plug stuck in, threads stripped, leaking etc.
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Geez, I wish I had read this before I started, over an hour ago.

 

"Just slip out and let the oil drain while I have lunch" so I thought.

 

Heat, freeze & Release, impact driver, dremel.  Nothing has worked so far.  What a **** design & then the metal is as soft as.  And it was a new sump plug when I re-did the thing, which has only been out twice since.

 

Why do they keep selling something that doesn't work?

 

 

I ended up with the bash plate off.  After stuffing the hex some more with vice grips that didn't, I took to the head with the cutting wheel on the dremel, cut a slot for a large screw driver.  Didn't budge it.

I couldn't get a swing to use the impact driver, so it went on it's side.

Impact driver didn't work, it only opened the slot I had cut, threatening to break half the head off.

I attacked the flange with the dremel, trying to make a 16mm bolt head. That didn't work because I cut it at the wrong angle to get a spanner on properly.  Very careful to touch the disc onto the bolt for a second, waiting for the copper washer to become visible and then even more carefully widening the cut until the flange came loose/fell off.

20210202_123745.jpg

Second last tactic was the old chisel and hammer, at a tangent.  Lucky I now had a nice flat face to put the chisel against.

Bastard thing turned smoothly on the third tap.  I didn't even get the opportunity to get aggressive with it.

Threads are perfect.

I reckon it's just a piece of **** part that Yamaha can't be bothered changing.

There are far too many tales of woe, and 'previous owner' comments for it to be anything other than the part itself.  I mean, even if you don't use a torque wrench, how many other bolts of any kind have you stuffed the head on.  Not that many.  None in the past decade or more that I can recall.

To be replaced with a proper bolt and crush washer.  I will try and find a magnetic sump plug but couldn't be too bothered.

Changing the rear tyre is the next challenge.  UHD tube and rim locks. Arrgh!!!



-- Edited by tripodtiger on Tuesday 2nd of February 2021 04:48:37 AM

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In the Riverina.

'73 RD250, '76 RD400, '80 XS1100, '81 RD373LC, '96 Tiger 900/sidecar, '02 TTR250, and another XS11 - this time a chain drive Period 5 race bike that may be ready to race in early '22, or '23??



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"Second last tactic was the old chisel and hammer, at a tangent.  Lucky I now had a nice flat face to put the chisel against. Bastard thing turned smoothly on the third tap.  I didn't even get the opportunity to get aggressive with it."

 

Cold chisel and hammer usually sorts it Ray wink

Brian



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Last resort was the drill. I hate the possible consequences of getting that wrong so, I reckon I'd pay someone to do that.


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