Typical - you have just rebuilt your engine, torqued down the head and you are just fitting the camshafts when you strip a thread on a cam cap
Sadly there is no way to do a repair that I can see without taking the head off again
Anyways up, this is a rough "how to". Quite a few of my photos were unusable and, to make the item flow, I have had to use a couple that are rubbish but I hope you get the idea. I am not going back over to take the photos again
The symptom of a stripped thread is obvious as the bolt won't torque down.
I use a 6mm Recoil kit but other kits are available which will do just as good a job.
Briefly, you need to drill out the damaged thread, tap the hole, thread in a steel insert and you have a thread that is stronger than the original.
This is my kit:
You can drill out the hole using the supplied drill bit in a hand-held drill but I have an old pillar drill which comes in handy for just this sort of occasion and gives a better chance of me drilling the hole vertical.
Before drilling, mask off the area to keep the swarf out of the cam buckets etc.
Then tap the hole using the tap provided in the kit and blow out the swarf with an airline or can of compressed air - or simply shake it out.
Next, install new the new thread insert. Use the special tool which engages with a tang on the insert and lets you screw it down into the new thread you have made:
Next remove the tang by tapping it with the punch and hammer:
I have a small telescopic magnet which I use to remove the broken tang but it would probably just shake out.
All that is left to do now is to check the bolt screws in and out nicely and job done!
hi brian i know helicoils are good but dated nowadays timeserts are excellent when fitted right they cannot pull out like a helicoil look them up on the web i have used them some time but not cheap but there agan cheaper than a new head
Hi John and welcome to your new well-earned Guru status!
Nearly all the stripped threads I encounter are the common 6mm ones as found in the crankcases etc on the TTR. For these, the Recoil kit is perfect and a cheap repair. Also, being a practical guy, I use what I have
As you say, lots of interesting information on the interweb such as here:
I also located a metric bolt torque table from that video and it answered a question I had in my mind as to whether the torque settings used by Mr Yamaha in his workshop manual refer to dry or lubed threads. Looking at the chart, I am pretty sure they are dry settings because, if you look at the M6 torques setting, the nearest to that in the workshop manual is the dry setting i.e. 10Nm. What do you think?
Has anyone used a self-tapping version of the helicoil? Head cover on the CB650 looks like someone tried a helicoil without tapping it previously. Needs 7.5 fp torque.