Thought it was time to put up a build thread on my TTR. I got it as a low km tidy stocker with a GYTR pipe.. I bought purely as a trail bike for my then teenage kids to ride in the bush. I had recently downsized from a series of 250 2 strokes and 400's / 450's to my first Yamaha, a WR250F. 250 four strokes are fun. No more arm pump and seriously fun to ride in the bush. The WR soon got tweaked with a 290cc Big Bore kit and pipe etc, but that's another story.
Pretty soon the TTR was deresticted, stripped to its essentials and rejetted with the airbox snorkel pulled out. It ran pretty good like that with the GYTR pipe but the suspension lacked a bit of rebound control. So much so it spat me off a track straight at a gumtree at about 60 kph. End result was a badly bent frame and bent shock absorber.
So I had to fix my son's bike which I had all but demolished. I ended up re framing it in a black powder coating frame and getting a used shock and having that shock and the forks professionally rebuilt and revalved. New heavier front springs too.
As a result the bike handled well and my son who was now 18 was riding the wheels off it. I often swapped him for the WR to ride, usually because I wanted a soft seat after a long ride!!
My son bought himself a WR250F like mine and we put the TTR up for sale last year. It didn't sell so we decided we would hot it up a bit and keep it as a spare bike.
It was still a very tidy low km example with the powder coated frame.
First off was an USD front fork conversion. I had a set of 48 mm WP's complete with the front wheel and Brembo front brakes and 270 mm rotor.
We got this grafted on, it took a bit off mucking around getting the right bearing sizes and getting them machined to fit.
P.S. If you want to do an USD swap use the Yamaha forks, much easier. But the result was worth it.
Those forks were always good and plush, they never bottom and the bike steers even better than before.
I put fat Magura handlebars with bar risers on, that allowed me to pull the forks up to keep the geometry almost the same as before.
The Brembo brakes are very strong too. With the WP forks and revalved shock you can hit the rough rocky stuff flat out or jump the bike and have smooth controlled landings.
By now my son was working and had some cash so I went half with him and we put a 263cc big bore kit in it. We got the head ported and decked for a bit more compression. The stock carby got tuned to suit and the pumper timing tweaked too.
End result the bike was stronger right through the rev range. Still not modified WR fast but it doesn't really get left behind. Wheelies in 1st and second are twist the throttle, third stand up lean back and throttle on. No way it could do that previously.
Now we take the TTR out often in lieu of either of our WR's. It is a seriously fun bike to ride, especially in the tight twisty single track we seek out. On technical hill climbs its nearly unstoppable with its stronger but old school tractor like power.
Because its getting ridden faster now the front feels great, but the shock felt like it was letting it down.
I recently ordered a Wilbers shock from Germany and fitted that.
On my last ride it was very, very good. Plush but I was launching it higher and higher off erosion jumps and it's suspension felt great, like a new model bike.
Its cost a fair bit of $$$ but it will stay in the shed forever. Its one of those bikes I'll hang onto.
I have a new WR250f with only about 800 km on it. I figure the TTR gets ridden every second ride, so it should halve the wear and tear on the new WR so that should last me twice as long. ;)
Copped a flat front tyre in the first 20 minutes of a ride, it was very rocky. One of my mates asked why I was riding " that old ****box " and not my new bike. I didn't say anything but spent the rest of the weekend passing him and giving it to him with the horn!!!
-- Edited by Kaos on Saturday 7th of October 2017 12:57:08 PM
looks good , the shock is interesting i had mine rebuilt by promoto in the hunter valley wr internals and is great the complete unit sounds like the go though .
i get a few looks at times when the trr turns up but thats soon put aside when it proves itself and is there a the end of the day
I think Yamaha did a great job with the frame geometry on these bikes. With the later model suspension components it handles really well. Steers fast but is stable too. Better than i hoped for.
Wilbers build to your specs , weight intended use etc and whilst not as cheap as a rebuild/revalve it has high speed and low speed compression and rebound adjustment. Works well. And looks cool.
Yes you can get some funny looks from those who don't understand ;)
I get a bit of crap (in a good way) from my riding buddies about how much I love my TTR. I'm sure you will get lots of questions about the rear shock. So it bolts straight in? Would you mind saying what it cost? I had my shock rebuilt 2 years ago and it was re-shimmed to suit my weight by Shock Treatment in Aus (still too much rebound I think). I will have to get it done again but want to get more work done this time (seal is showing signs of weeping again). Thinking of using http://www.teknikmotorsport.com in NSW they apparently have a really good rep in sorting the WR250R rear shock and I know ttboof says they are similar.
I'm interested in the shock you mentioned - as I will be having this TTR forever and my next bike will probably be a newer low klm TTR! I'm keen on more mods and making it even better. The forks seem ok to me with upgraded oil (I probably should at least get gold valves) I'm only a 70kg featherweight though.
Its fun overtaking and giving people a few beeps on the horn or an indicator , especially up a dodgy hill climb.
The shock bolts straight in. You can order the shock and spring set up to your weight and type of riding. Its high quality german made so no its not cheap. Suspensions r us are the Australian importers check their website.
A rebuild and revalve of the original is a good cheaper option. And i have heard good things too from techniks.
Lovely bit of kit Kaos, thanks for posting the spec and photos.
I have used Wilbers (formerly Technoflex) in the past for road race shocks and have just bought another for my next road race project. Yes they are expensive, not ohlins money though, but are custom built to your spec and weight. German build quality is great and I really rate them. May fit one to the TTR if i'm feeling flush but having a respring and revalve on my YZF front end TTR250 first. Keep up the good work.
Sorry for a temporary thread hijack but there are a couple of other ways to raise the TTR beside raising the seat height.
a) Steve's lowering link fabricator can make a version of the link that raises the TTR by whatever you want although I would suggest 2" as a maximum.
b) Another owner had some fork leg extenders made up which allows them to be dropped through the yokes to raise the bars and keep the TTR level. See photo below:
I am happy enough with the ride height at 1.9m tall. What is a pain is the distance between the pegs and the seat. Makes for some cramping on long rides. My GS1200 has 1" raised seat, lowered pegs and raised suspension. It is almost right ;) My WR450 has the same pegs Kaos used. The spring part of the peg, was milled off and a spacer placed above the peg to lower it slightly. Every millimeter helps.
I am going to have to raise the foam on the TTR seat to get more comfort.
I am happy enough with the ride height at 1.9m tall. What is a pain is the distance between the pegs and the seat. Makes for some cramping on long rides. My GS1200 has 1" raised seat, lowered pegs and raised suspension. It is almost right ;) My WR450 has the same pegs Kaos used. The spring part of the peg, was milled off and a spacer placed above the peg to lower it slightly. Every millimeter helps.
I am going to have to raise the foam on the TTR seat to get more comfort.
I agree with you Katana. I find the seat height fine. Its lower than WR's so easy to put your feet down and paddle in didficult conditions. But the seat to peg height is more cramped than my WR's. I don't suffer leg cramps on the WR250F (had 07 and now a 15) but do after a big day on the TTR.
I'll get the seat foam raised about an inch. It will hopedully flatten the dip in the seat out a bit too.
I dont want lower pegs. I have already broken a big toe off road and want to avoid that happening again.
I wont look at raising the back of the bike. It is handling perfect now. One of the best things IMO about the TTR is the low feel of the center of gravity , the motor etc I think if i jacked everything higher that would change for the worse And it would still be a bit cramped at the footpegs for me.
-- Edited by Kaos on Monday 23rd of October 2017 08:54:55 AM
Leigh
They were off an 07 WR250F 07 was the first alloy frame.The pivot pegs I put on my 07 WR bolted straoght on my MY15 WR.
So any wrf footpath from 07 on would be ok. They were just slightly wide on the TTR frame so needed a slight massage to fit and I used the WR springs.
It's a nice upgrade, a big comfortable footpeg.