A forum for owners of Yamaha TTR250 trail and enduro bikes!

mossproof · Super Guru

Headlight questions

ttboof · Super Guru

The blue Ozzie ones are 60/55. I run a 15w led its super bright anoys other riders even in daylight but not good for oncoming drivers after dark. Lucky the pattern isn't checked here when being inspected I avoid riding after dark as there are too many roos

TTRfan · Super Guru

mossproof wrote:
Does anybody know if a Raid loom has heavier gauge wire to the headlight than an OE? I believe the Raid bulb is 55/60W, is this correct? Also, what power are the Aus spec headlights with those big glass lenses?

Hi Simon

The gauge of wire is the same across all the models.

As Les says, the Australian standard blue TTR headlight (with glass lens) runs a 55/65w bulb with no special provision of a relay or whatever.

The early blue TTRs imported into the UK (circa 2001 also used the same same headlight assembly also with the 60/55w headlight bulbs. Good ones do come up for sale in the UK occasionally and they fetch good money. Sold a few myself back in the day.

The standard Raid bulb is 35/36w according to the fiche but as it has a glass headlight lens it is common to fit the bigger bulb. I don't have a Raid headlight on hand to check but there are plenty of Raid owners on here could say what they run wink

What you thinking of doing?

Brian

mossproof · Super Guru

Thanks gentlemen.
I've had a headlight fetish for a while and have been running a Baja Designs rectangular light with a 60/55w H4 bulb and a pair of relays to get max voltage at the bulb. I've just fitted a Cyclops 3800 led bulb in instead, which is much brighter, and after some tuning I managed to get a decent beam pattern on it (1 hr riding round in the dark in traffic and no flashes) I'm thinking of removing the relays to simplify the wiring a bit, and as I carry a spare standard H4 in case the led packs up, I was just wondering about the standard wiring. A mate has also just gone the Baja Designs route after a particularly " interesting" ride in the dark with his standard candle, so I just sort of hoped my assumption that the factory loom was built for the higher wattage would be correct.

Cyclops 3800 lumen h4 bulb: Expensive, but uses 3A/5A (dipped/main beam) rather than the 6A/7A of a 35w H4, or 10A/11A of a 55/60w H4. Also MUCH brighter and further beam throw. It comes with a spacer to tune the beam a bit. I found without the spacer the dip cutoff was most pronounced and main beam threw furthest BUT there was a slight shadow dead ahead on dip, which annoyed me. With the full spacer (about 3mm) there seemed to be little difference between dip and main except in brightness (ie cutoff not very noticeable) I trimmed the spacer bit by bit until I got a reasonable cutoff pattern but no shadow.
There is a little fan on the back for cooling, which tucks neatly under the speedo on my bike but might be vulnerable to mud/dust/water in some installations. I'll wait and see how it copes long term.

I don't know how well it would work in other lenses, but the guys I bought mine from offered me a refund if I wasn't happy. Not necessary!

Shame about the shadow, because apart from that, without the spacer was the best beam - I can only assume because the lens is so small, the end of the led bulb interferes with some of the reflection. Hmm, optics, interesting subject. If the led was cheaper I'd consider butchering the carrier to see if I could improve the beam pattern... Maybe one day I'll get a life?

ttboof · Super Guru

The fan on my led bulb has had plenty of dust .water and a bit of mud in its third year with no problems it should have died but it keeps on chewing

TTRfan · Super Guru

I researched LED headlights for my old BS A10 after being teased about looking like Wee Will Winkie!

The consensus seemed to be that LED headlight bulbs have continued to improve but are still not quite there. Apparently there are LED bulbs with a single light that move up and down to get dip/main beam although how sturdy they would be on a dirtbike is open to question confuse

A supplementary light wired into main beam on the TTR would be my option if I knew I was going to do a lot of night riding. Some of the cycle lights offered occasionally in Aldi and Lidls are phenomenal! See https://www.lidl.co.uk/en/Non-Food-Offers.htm?articleId=1792&ar=2 as an example.

Brian

mossproof · Super Guru

I've tried one of those bulbs that "shifts" to alter the beam. Sh*t it my response! Beam pattern nonexistent, and flimsy as you suggest. I don't think they would take the vibration. The Cyclops product does work well in my case, although it's effectiveness is dependent on the reflector/lens I think. I'm glad to hear the fans seem resilient Les.
I don't like the clutter of those extra lights, although Baja Designs do some fantastic minature ones. Also, as the main reason for my quest is to improve the nighttime road experience, auxillary lights don't serve the purpose if you are plunged into darkness when you need to turn them off for traffic.
My mate Martyn's KLX headlight is shocking and it's a new bike. Triumph of form over function. Lights on dirt bikes (or dual sports) seem to have always been an afterthought for manufacturers.

bluedream · Member

If it is ok, I'll warm up this old thread. Just had a first Nightrider with flow and that 35/36.5 h6 or p15d candle really doesn't do the trick on the windy gravel pista. My hope was for an easy fix, considering the led advances but the reviews I read were all pretty bad. Has anyone found a good solution? The brightness of the stock bulb would be ok, but the width of the beam is far too narrow for my taste.
Well lit riding, everybody

micccki · Veteran Member

Hi, i fitted a lamp which i believe is off a TDR with a 60/55 for years using the standard wiring on a OE. It has a glass lens. I also fitted an old type dip switch on the handle bar so that only the sidelight comes on for starting.

Moo · Senior Member

bluedream wrote:
If it is ok, I'll warm up this old thread. Just had a first Nightrider with flow and that 35/36.5 h6 or p15d candle really doesn't do the trick on the windy gravel pista. My hope was for an easy fix, considering the led advances but the reviews I read were all pretty bad. Has anyone found a good solution? The brightness of the stock bulb would be ok, but the width of the beam is far too narrow for my taste.
Well lit riding, everybody

Look for a WR 250 Headlight on ebay. Usually pop up are a close match to the original. Use a H4 bulb and are 55/60W rated with a glass headlight. Offers better lighting.

bluedream · Member

Thanks a lot Moo! That makes sense 😃 do you use incandescent bulbs or less? Cheers

Moo · Senior Member

Yeah i just stick to good quality standard H4's like osram nightbreakers or philips extreme etc..

bluedream · Member

back to the headlight issue: i just realized that bluey's headlight unit is aftermarket from hebo, not original. so the wr250 headlight assembly swap won't work. would a conplete wr250 unit be the way to go? what alternative headlight units that take h4 55w have been fitted to ttr's? thanks for any illuminating hints 😃

Moo · Senior Member

Yeah a complete WR250 headlight and cowl will work. They use a 55/60w H4 bulb

robs · Senior Member

Hi, I also have a headlight question and this seemed like the relevant thread!

I bought one of these for a previous bike: www.ebay.co.uk/itm/6-Black-Metal-H4-Retro-Vintage-Headlight-Project-Cafe-Racer-Scrambler-Motorbike/192111367480%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

It has a 'H4' style connector on it (3 pins)

Does anyone have any idea whether it'd be possible to use this on a TTR? I'm guessing it'd be OK since Brian and ttboof both mentioned earlier on that a 55 Watt bulb should work without any relays or anything.

Cheers

Moo · Senior Member

Yeah it will work fine 😁

You can always run it through a relay for extra oomph to stop power loss through the switches

robs · Senior Member

Hey moo, thanks for the advice, I wonder if you or anyone else can give me some advice on wiring it up..

I've established which are the ground and high/low beam wires on the new light and I've found this wiring diagram: radikal.ru/fp/41bbd9f1d30d48bb81c77199a2e61b25

However, it doesn't match the bike. The bike has two yellow wires (going into same pin) a green, a blue, and a black.

Any idea how this should be wired up?

robs · Senior Member

well, I found a multimeter and wired it up to power but something that I don't understand is happening:

When the beam switch is dipped then both high and low are on

When the beam switch is full then just low is on

I could swap this around but obviously it'll actually make it worse because at the moment the switch is just inverted, if I swapped the cables over I'd be left with high beam (instead of low) when full beam is switched, and both on when switched to dipped, which isn't much use to me.

Any electronics people know what I may have done wrong?

Cheers,

-- Edited by robs on Sunday 1st of July 2018 07:39:55 PM

robs · Senior Member

Old Vs. new:

-- Edited by robs on Sunday 1st of July 2018 08:46:59 PM

robs · Senior Member

Light seems to be running very hot (although it seems brighter than the stock one) and now bike seems to be losing power occasionally, especially on acceleration.. I'm wondering whether it's just coincidence or whether the new light is using too much power and the bike is misfiring as a result?

robs · Senior Member

Disconnected headlight and power loss is still occurring so I'm guessing something to do with the carb.

ttr steve · Super Guru

Hi Robs

Are you talking about problems with the running of the bike?

robs · Senior Member

Hi Steve,

Yeah sorry, to clarify: the bike seems to be losing power when I'm increasing the throttle mid-to-top of each gear. I'm not sure whether it could be the air/fuel mixture (I've had to adjust it a bit so the bike idles properly, but I'm no expert) or some other problem with the carb. You may have noticed I ordered a carb rebuild kit. My intention was to try adjusting the air/fuel screw again (although it still seems a bit like black magic to me) and if that fails then rebuild the carb.

Any advice appreciated,

Cheers,

ttr steve · Super Guru

Inlet stub in good condition? If yes then do the rebuild kit, tiz a good kit smile smile

TTRfan · Super Guru

Highly unlikely but loss of power at the top end can mean the camchain has jumped a tooth on one of the sprockets. Probably hasn't but worth a check before you go into the carb. Got to take the tank off for either wink

robs · Senior Member

Thanks for the advice peeps, I'll investigate further and report back.

robs · Senior Member

Cleaned the carb and changed the spark plug and it's all good.

When I pulled the spark plug this is what I saw:

Anyone know what that giant lump of stuff is? Cheers

-- Edited by robs on Sunday 15th of July 2018 03:11:34 PM

-- Edited by robs on Sunday 15th of July 2018 03:12:27 PM

JOHNYBOY · Super Guru

carbon deposits

robs · Senior Member

Thanks johnyboy, so looks like I was probably running too rich then..

greekmountains · Veteran Member

ttboof wrote:
The blue Ozzie ones are 60/55. I run a 15w led its super bright anoys other riders even in daylight but not good for oncoming drivers after dark. Lucky the pattern isn't checked here when being inspected I avoid riding after dark as there are too many roos

"good old skippy" it would be a big suprise to see one on the road in Greece thats for sure!

greekmountains · Veteran Member

micccki wrote:

Hi, i fitted a lamp which i believe is off a TDR with a 60/55 for years using the standard wiring on a OE. It has a glass lens. I also fitted an old type dip switch on the handle bar so that only the sidelight comes on for starting.

I like your bike miccki-it looks tough,hardy and up to the job -what bike is the tank from and is the headlight original??

micccki · Veteran Member

Hi, not original headlight, TDR 250 i believe. I cut the original cowl, and made brackets to fit. Dont know what the tank is off, but holds approximately 19 litres.