A forum for owners of Yamaha TTR250 trail and enduro bikes!

Sounds like a good deal

While the shocks being done for a few extra dollars the service place might be able to do a bit of an internal change to suit you and riding style .

The shock is pretty good as is but can be tuned a bit if needed 

Let us know how it goes 

Good work top job 

Replacing the valve is a great idea . Topping up the gas will be an easy task 

They ride well freshened up 

TTRfan wrote:

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Hi Matthew and well done for refurbing the shock!

I have a seal head kit (from Totally TTRs - see here) and a leaky rear shock here to do and am a bit nervous about doing it 

A couple of questions:

1. How did you release any remaining pressure in the shock?

2. How did you refill with oil and what sort of quantity did you use?

I see you used 7w shock fluid and you are happy the shock works well with that. I like a plush suspension so was thinking of using 2.5w. Would that be OK do you think?

Brian

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Brian, 

Thanks for the link. I'll keep that in mind when mine needs replacing! 

2.5w would probably be the stock weight of fluid. You should be fine! If you are careful with filling the shock, you should be fine with 16oz bottle. I bought two just Incase 😂

To release the pressure inside of the remote reservoir is really simple! After removing the shock from the motorcycle, remove the small screw on the bottom of the reservoir. There is a rubber self healing plug inside the hole. I simply used a needle from a syringe to deplete the remaining nitrogen from the bladder. Don't be afraid to poke it, the rubber really grips well and the volume is so low that it would be unlikely you will launch the needle back out!

Once the nitrogen is gone you can go ahead and remove the screw and the banjo bolt to remove the reservoir and empty the shock of the fluid.

To disassemble the reservoir, go ahead and push down on the top part with the valve. This will reveal the circlip about 6mm down. Use a small screw driver to hook an end and pick it out. At this point you can pull that valve assembly out. Do the same on the bottom of the reservoir. You might have to reinsert the screw in the bottom to get some leverage to get the bladder out when trying to pull the bottom cap out.

Go ahead and disassemble the shock and keep good notes/pictures of the shim stack to aid in reassembly.

After you have the shock back together, install the valve assembly back on the reservoir. Put the pre load nuts back on the shock before reattaching the remote reservoir hose to the shock.

Using a vise, I held the reservoir with the open end up and I began filling the shock through the small hole, this proves to be somewhat tedious and slow. I added fluid through the screw hole until the shock sounded "squishy". I put the screw back in and then began adding fluid to the reservoir. Once it was topped up I pulled and held on the shaft of the shock and it would pull the fluid from reservoir in to the shock. Continue to do this until you can literally feel the shock is full and it is no longer taking fluid in. As you push it back in you will also be burping the air bubbles out. 

Fill the reservoir up about 2/3-3/4 full and then push the empty bladder in to the reservoir and reinstall the circlip. 

Fill with nitrogen and viola!

Side note. To fill the reservoir back up, you will need the special nitrogen fill adapter unless you reworked the bottom to use a Schrader valve. If you don't have the means to do something like that, I'd gladly do it for you. Just pay for shipping and the valve.

Hope this was coherent enough to understand! 

-Matthew

Hi Matthew

The details look really helpful but I have to admit that I still have all the bits and pieces in a box awaiting their turn.

My Beeza is a real time thief!!!!!!

I promise to let you know how I get on. Sorry not to have responded before.

Brian

PS I also have to admit that I couldn't resist buying one of Steve's new shocks which reduced the pressure to do the repair just a bit