Ive got this noise coming from the right hand side of the head. 40,000km with first( 8000km no history ) ..... its only there when motors warming up and it gets abit of load on it as i go thought gears. ::: in saying that its not there as bike warms on idling....i can rev it with no noise. I do let it idle for 5mins first , if i dont give it a big 10/15 warm up in 1--2gears keeping the revs down riding slow. The rattle or bearing sound appears say at 3000 rpm going through the gears. I reduce the revs then its gone. After the motor is really hot noise disappears . Would the head not be flooding enough to allow bearings to have enough oil. Why im thinking its not the cam chain is i give it heaps of revs through the gears , half thrash the best and no noise. Thanks.
Thanks Steve. Will do that in the next few Hours , Ive read that Brian says timing chain sound is a woosh type sound and the auto adjusters give little trouble. i did the oil pressure check with that 10mm bolt on top of oil filter, oil comes out ok. Thnx.
All tight buff, thnx. Noise is difinetly top end. Did the srcew driver thing and listened. Maybe cam chain rattle but im no expert, anything else in the head that needs oil and maybe gets to it slower. Noise is not there from cold idle/slight rev. But comes in when i rev it before its really hot. Had another thrash of the best and no noise when real hot. I mean real hot. Like it needs 15 min of slow ridding till its hot enough for the noise to stay away. Thnx.
Have you checked the state of the cam chain? At that mileage I'd be checking the valve clearances and the state of the chain for sure. If the bearings didn't have enough oil they would have chewed themselves up by now. It's not a terrible job to just whip the top cover off, set the crank at top dead centre, and check valve clearances and the state of the chain. It's then not much more work to take a camshaft cap off and check the surfaces (but be gentle - they're not very sturdy and need seating properly before you tighten them back up (10Nm only).
Bite the bullet and delve in there is my suggestion.
We're here for you with advice and moral support
Ride safe,
Simon.
Had the cam chain replaced now the rattle has gone..
Bike shop said the cam chain was replaced without removing the clutch cover..
Hi Mark. Glad to hear your TTR is sorted!
I am fascinated as to how the bike shop replaced the cam chain so easily. I can only think they cut the new and old chains and fed the new one in as they pulled out the old one and then rejoined the new chain with a rivet link.... Next time you see them, can you ask please? I hate mysteries.....
I've done a couple of can chains that way .in the past
The chains were cut at the shop and a joiner link was supplied . the pins are made to be able to peen the ends of the pins over I've only done it on paddock bikes as I feel better with a complete chain on the good bikes
I didnt think to ask if the chain was being re revited. I wouldnt have requested it being done that way and would have happily paid the extra labour if it was suggested...
Have you had failed TTR chains re revited? Or any other single cyclinder motors..
I will be chatting with the bike shop next week to ask them also of fail rates... Hope its zero as they may have a super duper re reviter machine...
And would it be total upper cyclinder and piston distruction if failed at high revs?
Caught up with a couple of mates from the bike shop yesterday the cam chain use is a standard roll of chain that fits several brands and they have a rivet tool the advantage is it's time saving as well as if all else down stairs is ok there's no need to disturb it the ones I've done have been bush repairs with a couple of hammers all still running ok one is an Xr with ten years on it
the process is apparently common on road bikes as some have the chain in the middle of the engine so as Brian suggested theres no need for concern sounds like you have a good bike shop that has Saved you a few dollars