It's the Diode...
is a one way link so AC current dosn't come in contact with DC current...
The AC current is taken from the rectifirer & used to go though the starter button as it's not
big enough to handle DC current & would burn it out very fast...
ive seen this question and explanations before but stayed quiet its a bit hard to explain but here I go .
the diode in question enables the cdi unit to double up on the start button wire with the neutral light . the cdi wire when earthed by the start switch retards the ignition timing while cranking protecting the starter from kick back (also a bit easier to crank ) .
if you look at the diagram the starter switch actually switches the negative side of the solenoid and its only a small current , there is also another diode in the diagram close to the solenoid its actually a zenner diode to quench the induced voltage from the switching the solenoid winding protecting the rest of the electrical .
this has been around since the mid 80s , but one of those things that goes un noticed .
(coming from my 14 years an auto electrician in a past life ) my tip when working with electrickery is to think of it as plumbing works much the same .both water and power flow through pipes /wires
(coming from my 14 years an auto electrician in a past life ) my tip when working with electrickery is to think of it as plumbing works much the same .both water and power flow through pipes /wires
So keeping with the plumbing analogy water and electricity flows I think you meant to say in both directions unless you stop it with a diode or in plumbing terms a "Back flow Prevention Valve"
I thought it must have been for something like that when I looked at the wiring diagram
I can do basic wiring on the bike and round the house but too deep into electronics and my eye's kind of "glaze over"
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2004 TTR250 - Highway Dirtbike Hand Guards, 38mm Bar Risers, D606 Front & Rear, Opened up Airbox with Twin Air Filter, Re-jetted Carby, B+B Bash Plate & Frame Guards, DIY 3mm Alloy Tail Tidy, 14/47 Gearing.
yeah, I guess it stops something like "electrical water hammer".
there are other different unrelated diodes in the TTR by the way (several in the rectifier/regulator).
this particular diode under discussion here, has no effect except when starting.
the problem is that the coil in the relay stores magnetic energy while current is flowing to hold in
the solenoid switch to the starter, but when you release the starter button this stored magnetic
energy wants to collapse by converting back to reverse polarity electrical energy ("back EMF").
the actual energy (and so max current) is minimal, but a momentary reverse voltage of over 100V
could last for a few milliseconds without the diode - enough to possibly damage some electrical items
or create a small spark in the starter switch which would eventually erode the contacts.
this diode unit is really two diodes back to back, one being a zener diode which has the effect
of thresholding the reverse flow through its normal diode series partner.
because the diode unit enables easy flow at any reverse potential exceeding the zener threshold, the electricity
takes that easy path through the diode unit, and dissipates, instead of wreaking havoc elsewhere.
(coming from my 14 years an auto electrician in a past life ) my tip when working with electrickery is to think of it as plumbing works much the same .both water and power flow through pipes /wires
So keeping with the plumbing analogy water and electricity flows I think you meant to say in both directions unless you stop it with a diode or in plumbing terms a "Back flow Prevention Valve"
I thought it must have been for something like that when I looked at the wiring diagram
I can do basic wiring on the bike and round the house but too deep into electronics and my eye's kind of "glaze over"
yeah a diode is a one way valve the one shown is the one I described enabling the cdi to share the neutral light circuit .
your spot on with your comparison Back flow Prevention Valve
we are surrounded by them in day to day life and they do a great job hidden away in black boxes
a minor correction to my previous comment where I said the diode(s) "has no effect except when starting" -
I believe that comment and explanation is correct, but ONLY for the US model which has much simpler wiring.
ttboof is surely correct about other models, where there is a need to enable a neutral light.
Speaking of non US models - the Australian models, as far as I know, have a required combination of clutch switch,
neutral switch (with light), and ALSO side-stand cut out switch which affect starting (plus main and kill switch of course).
Anybody know if that is the case for all the European models too?
- apart from US model, I haven't seen a TTR wiring schematic.
Ok so the main switch on my ttr went out .....and so I connected a 3 prong on off switch (power/load/earth) and I think I shorted something out (pretty positive it's the diode in the wiring loom a ktm dealer said the diode was in open relay).....I can't find a part number for it or i can't find it anywhere online .......any ideas on where to start looking or a "at home remedy" can I just cut the cconnector on the harness and add another type of diode (different prong shape but same amp rating) To replace the stock yahama one??
I know the starter works and the starter relay .....I'm just not getting a load between the and brown wires (run switch) ...the starter button is connected and loaded correctly (blue and blue/whitestripe) the kills switch (other 2 red/white stripe & brown) are on a seperate switch ....only one of those get voltage .....when I unplug the diode from the harness nothing gets power
That's what I'm thinking as well it seems to be diode S3H-02 they are identical to the ones used on a a lot of Honda bikes.... The part number for Honda is #31700-124-008
Totally TTRs has a second-hand 3-pin diode from a TTR250 loom (and a couple of the 2-pin ones as well) in stock. If you are interested, drop Steve an email at sales@totallyttrs.com