Hey folks. Just bought a 2006 ttr250 with about 5-10 hours. Completely unmolested and in pristine condition.
Still has original battery which needs replacing but I ran into an issue. It wouldn't start so I downloaded the manuel and traced the problem back to the starter switch. To verify this is the issue I simply took the switch apart and put a in a jumper and it started immediately.
So issue solved..... however..... after picking up my jaw off the floor when I realized the starter switch cost $95.00 I started looking for alternatives.
Other models including but not exclusive that have similar looking switches are other ttrs and Wr models. They have different part numbers but I am thinking this is for wire length more than the switch itself.
The Wr250 switch is $30.00.
Can anyone help me with an alternative solution including if these other switches will work.
I am in the US so I don't really want to order a part from the UK.
Thats what I thought but my dealer is giving me a bit of a fit about it. They say none of these interchange which is quite crazy. I know they want me to buy the more expensive one.
Does anyone have an inexpensive solution that has been tried?
Well, apparently these ttr's are cranky. I thought the battery was bad but after charging and leaving on the trickle charge its fine. Now, to the switch. The other day it wouldn't fire. I took it apart and there was some goop on it. I cleaned it and made the connection but nothing. Tonight I just decided to put the spring back in and hit it and it worked. Apparently, the spring is the integral part in the switch. Thanks guys. It works again. Shoulder shrugg lol.
The reason the dealers are telling you that it does not fit is that it will not fit. The connector blocks are different and will NOT be a direct replacement. That said, you could make it work with a bit of work.
I have cleaned my starter switch many times over the time I have owned it (about 10 years as it's the one off my old Open Enduro model). The process is simple-
Unscrew the two Philips head screws that clamp it to the handle bars, chop the tiny cable tie that holds the harness firm, unscrew the tiny Philips head self tapping screws, take the switch out from the switch housing, take the switch apart being careful not to loose any parts (after taking note of how it all goes) and clean the contacts up using metal polish, contact cleaner, or a green scourer and toothpaste.
Make sure that the wires are still solidly soldered to the switch and there is no fraying. Any fraying of the wire will result in the starter relay receiving voltage that is way too low, resulting in stater relay failure (happen to me just recently because I forgot to put the tiny cable tie back on ).
Once the switch is together it would be advisable to check if it is getting full voltage through the switch using a multimeter to check. Simply earth the black side of the multimeter to the frame or motor and testing the voltage that runs through the switch when the start button is pressed.
Good luck!
Jarrah
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2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
Well, apparently these ttr's are cranky. I thought the battery was bad but after charging and leaving on the trickle charge its fine. Now, to the switch. The other day it wouldn't fire. I took it apart and there was some goop on it. I cleaned it and made the connection but nothing. Tonight I just decided to put the spring back in and hit it and it worked. Apparently, the spring is the integral part in the switch. Thanks guys. It works again. Shoulder shrugg lol.
You replied while I was typing that but it may help someone anyway lol (if not you).
Gotta love the Yamaha switch springs, they are much thicker and stronger than the Honda ones.
Glad you got it sorted!
BTW- I re-soldered my switch back up after much trouble lol, put the cable tie back on and all is well for me again (a new switch is just too pricey for me to want to buy yet lol.).
Jarrah
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
I stripped, Cleaned and a bit of molybdenum disulphide (moly) grease on my blinker, headlight and starter switches ages ago and there still good, I don't think they had ever been cleaned and greased, The blinker switch was particularly bad, wouldn't cancel by pushing it in
Now all good
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2004 TTR250 - Highway Dirtbike Hand Guards, 38mm Bar Risers, D606 Front & Rear, Opened up Airbox with Twin Air Filter, Re-jetted Carby, B+B Bash Plate & Frame Guards, DIY 3mm Alloy Tail Tidy, 14/47 Gearing.
It's not absolutely necessary to use grease, but it depends whether you want your switch to last. Without it it usually corrodes quickly from the heat generated and dust/water. It will also wear quicker.
The problem with using ''molybdenum disulphide (moly) grease'' is that it is conductive. If you use an excessive amount you could end up with problems.
The grease that I like to use that I was trying to think of is Dielectric grease. This grease is non-conductive and can be used excessively without problems. Although lithium or rubber grease does suffice in small amounts when you can't find the real stuff and Supercheap Auto's is too far lol.
Jarrah
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
Hey Superfrog, I've used it no problems but see below
my advise is clean the switch, try it dry to see if it starts them put some grease on all the moving parts
Luck
TT-R250M wrote:
The problem with using ''molybdenum disulphide (moly) grease'' is that it is conductive. If you use an excessive amount you could end up with problems.
The grease that I like to use that I was trying to think of is Dielectric grease. This grease is non-conductive and can be used excessively without problems. Although lithium or rubber grease does suffice in small amounts when you can't find the real stuff and Supercheap Auto's is too far lol.
Jarrah
Thanks, I forgot about that, but I haven't had any problems at all, probably lucky I didn't use much on the contacts
I use the stuff on everything else though, especially after I remove the axles, clean and grease the axles and they slide out no problems
I had to hammer them out the first time I removed them
Also use it on the speedo drive and drive cable, works a treat
Steve
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2004 TTR250 - Highway Dirtbike Hand Guards, 38mm Bar Risers, D606 Front & Rear, Opened up Airbox with Twin Air Filter, Re-jetted Carby, B+B Bash Plate & Frame Guards, DIY 3mm Alloy Tail Tidy, 14/47 Gearing.