Check petrol is getting through into the carb in case the petrol tap is blocked (happened to me the other day) or the float valve is sticking by undoing the carb float bowl drain screw. Does petrol flow out quickly?
If not, see if its flowing from the pipe that goes into the carb to eliminate the petrol tap. If it is flowing there then tap the side of the float bowl sharply a few times with the blunt end of a screwdriver to free up the float valve.
However, the fact that it doesn't fire on the starter fluid indicates a compression or ignition problem.
Check petrol is getting through into the carb in case the petrol tap is blocked (happened to me the other day) or the float valve is sticking by undoing the carb float bowl drain screw. Does petrol flow out quickly?
If not, see if its flowing from the pipe that goes into the carb to eliminate the petrol tap. If it is flowing there then tap the side of the float bowl sharply a few times with the blunt end of a screwdriver to free up the float valve.
However, the fact that it doesn't fire on the starter fluid indicates a compression or ignition problem.
Brian
Definitely check the fuel first, pull out the spark plug and check that it's not shorting out with a bit of carbon across the gap
Put the cap back on the plug and hit the starter button with the plug earthed against the motor, You should see a strong spark, if no spark you have a short somewhere or a dead coil
Then do as Brian says and check the compression
Put the plug back in and turn over by hand with the kick start, you should have a far bit of resistance there
If there's no compression there you had better find yourself a workshop manual and go through the troubleshooting section
Good Luck
BMSteve
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2004 TTR250 - Highway Dirtbike Hand Guards, 38mm Bar Risers, D606 Front & Rear, Opened up Airbox with Twin Air Filter, Re-jetted Carby, B+B Bash Plate & Frame Guards, DIY 3mm Alloy Tail Tidy, 14/47 Gearing.
Confirmed strong spark and fuel is making it to the carb. My next step is to pull the carb out and do a full cleaning.
Why did Yamaha have to make getting the carb out such a pain? My Honda XR was literally 3 bolts and it easily pulled from the side. One practically has to disassemble the Great Wall of China to get the TTR carb out. Sigh.
Why did Yamaha have to make getting the carb out such a pain? My Honda XR was literally 3 bolts and it easily pulled from the side. One practically has to disassemble the Great Wall of China to get the TTR carb out. Sigh.
10 minute job tops to get the airbox off and pull the carb
Confirmed strong spark and fuel is making it to the carb. My next step is to pull the carb out and do a full cleaning.
Why did Yamaha have to make getting the carb out such a pain? One practically has to disassemble the Great Wall of China to get the TTR carb out. Sigh.
If you are getting nice bright blue spark and have tried starter fluid I highly doubt that cleaning the carb will help, unless it has water in the cylinder or carb or it is flooding with fuel, although it won't hurt to try. I would suggest to do a compression test cold and hot. If you cannot start it to get the engine hot, run boiling hot water (from the kettle or boiled on the stove) over the engine until it gets hot. If you get vastly lower readings when the engine is cold, the rings will need doing. If it stays at the same low reading, the valves will need work. If you don't have a compression tester, you can try using your finger over the spark plug hole while pressing the start button. It should blast your finger away from the spark plug hole. If you can hold your finger on it or it seems weak, either the valves or rings will need doing.
I feel for you about the carb but once you get the hang of it is a 10-15 minute job (depending on whether the tools want to go walk-about lol). Not quite as quick as my WR400 though. All you have to do on it is loosen the clamps, take the fuel hose off and pull it out.
Jarrah
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2000 TT-R250M-
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Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
dont overlook the spark plug .it may have a good spark out of yhe cylinder .once back in with compression and fuel the spark can track back up the insulator not across the gap . commom fault with plugs elericity takes the easiest path .