I just bought a new FMF Q4 slip on exhaust, and thought I would remove the header pipe and clean it up while I had the muffler detached. Though the retaining nuts and plate came right off, there doesn't seem to be enough clearance to actually remove the pipe. I can't pull it forward enough to clear the main downshaft on the frame without the bend near the back of the pipe hitting the manifold. Do you have to loosen the motor mounts to remove it, or should I try to force it? I'm lacking about 3/4 of an inch of clearance. And the last time I checked, header pipes don't flex or bend.
Header pipe removal can be a challenge. There may be a knack but I don't think I have it and, judging by the gouges in the frame downtubes I have seen, neither do a lot of other owners!
I recollect someone saying to remove the front engine mount but can't vouch for it.
Not all header pipes are the same as the last few I have fitted went on no problem.
Header pipe removal can be a challenge. There may be a knack but I don't think I have it and, judging by the gouges in the frame downtubes I have seen, neither do a lot of other owners!
I recollect someone saying to remove the front engine mount but can't vouch for it.
Brian
Very good Brian,
You do in fact have to remove the LH engine mount.
The engine mounts only need removal if you're taking the head off or the engine out - not touched for exhaust removal.
To remove just the exhaust pipe entails nothing more than removing two nuts and washers from the cylinder head fixing and separating the pipe from the silencer.
Of course, if the pipe hasn't been removed and the bike's done a few miles then things will be reluctant to move, but patience, wangling and judicious force will dislodge the pipe from the head.
It would be best to remove the silencer to get proper access to the pipe but there's no need to unfasten the engine/frame fixings to get just the pipe off.
Be careful of the gasket ring between pipe and exhaust port if you want to reuse it.
Judicious force means waggling the pipe back and forth/up and down taking extreme care not to disturb the blue paintwork of the frame.
Whip the tail pipe off makes the job much easier, it allow you to just do the up and down twist with out trying to pull it off the studs until the seal has been broke.
The engine mounts only need removal if you're taking the head off or the engine out - not touched for exhaust removal.
To remove just the exhaust pipe entails nothing more than removing two nuts and washers from the cylinder head fixing and separating the pipe from the silencer.
Martyn
I seem to remember needing to remove the engine mount(s) or it makes it virtually impossible. If the manual suggests it in the ''removing the exhaust'' section it would be advisable to listen.
That said, with a LOT of ''wangling'' it may still be possible to remove it without removing the engine mount.
Jarrah
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2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
TT-R250M wrote: I seem to remember needing to remove the engine mount(s) or it makes it virtually impossible. If the manual suggests it in the ''removing the exhaust'' section it would be advisable to listen.
That said, with a LOT of ''wangling'' it may still be possible to remove it without removing the engine mount.
Jarrah
The extract you gave above, Jarrah, is from page 4-2 in the "engine removal" section of the Service Manual.
TT-R250M wrote: I seem to remember needing to remove the engine mount(s) or it makes it virtually impossible. If the manual suggests it in the ''removing the exhaust'' section it would be advisable to listen.
That said, with a LOT of ''wangling'' it may still be possible to remove it without removing the engine mount.
Jarrah
The extract you gave above, Jarrah, is from page 4-2 in the "engine removal" section of the Service Manual.
It doesn't refer solely to exhaust removal alone.
Martyn
I do realize that Martyn but my info above still stands.
The fact that they mention removing the mount before the muffler instead of in a separate section should tell you something.
Let me ask, have you removed one lately Martyn and did you find it hard to get past the engine mount??
Jarrah
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
I think that there is a slight difference in the header bends twixt one and another. Some I have struggled with in the past but I am on a roll currently and they all go on/come off with no bother.
A tip is to put some duct tape over the frame where the paint gouging usually occurs
I think that there is a slight difference in the header bends twixt one and another.
Brian
I think I'm going to agree with Brian here as my US header pipe seems harder (if not impossible) to remove from my 1999 model without removing the mount. Contrary to this, my older header pipe seemed to remove easily enough from my 1994 OE model??
Jarrah
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
Jarrah, are you telling me that by just removing the front head mount the engine or frame can be moved to enable the header's removal?
Have you tried it recently?
Martyn
LOL, no!
I am saying that the mount gets in the way.
I remember from installing it that I had to remove the mount to make it easier. Whether this was necessary or I should have just continued on swearing at it is anyone's guess.
Jarrah
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
Moving the head mount achieves nothing, believe me.
All the engine mounting fixings would require loosening (or removing) to allow any movement.
My TTR engine is firmly fixed in the frame by a front head mount, rear head mount, front lower engine mount and two rear engine mounts.
Jarrah, are you telling me that by just removing the front head mount the engine or frame can be moved to enable the header's removal?
Have you tried it recently?
Martyn
Im 100% here still, did mine twice in the last week, polished the standard front pipe and replaced the gasket the 2nd time, Its a 5 mins job and no mounts need to be removed.
Following the discussions about difficulties in fitting and removing the header pipe, I thought I would have a go with one of Totally TTR's polished stainless steel shorty header pipes. I am pleased to say that it went on and came off with no hassles!
Cor blimey - looking at that it seems I did mine the wrong way!
I'm going to have to read the maunual again and check.
Do I have to take the tank off, the side panels, the seat, carburettor, wiring, air box, forks, front & rear wheels, mudguards and things off just to fit/remove the header?
There is no way I could remove the header on mine, today, without removing the engine mount.
With it removed, it slides out very easily, with just a hint of a twist (darlings).
I tried to record what I did so I can make a bit of a video, 'ron. Don't wait up. Brexit may be achieved first, now that your Boris has a majority. What's he going to do with it, besides Brexit?
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In the Riverina.
'73 RD250, '80 XS1100, '81 RD373LC, '96 Tiger 900/sidecar, '02 TTR250, and another XS11 - this time a chain drive Period 5 race bike that may be ready to race eventually.
I have had a few header pipes that were silly tight and ended up scratching the frame getting them on and off. My guess is that they had been nerfed and bent slightly out of shape at sometime in their past life.
The Tories have made some big promises as can be seen in their election manifesto here. I guess they have "to get Brexit done" to see which projects they will then give priority.