A forum for owners of Yamaha TTR250 trail and enduro bikes!

Also see http://www.ttr250.com/#Spark Plugs

scotty72 wrote:

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TT-R250M wrote:

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It is a 5/8-

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Tools-Draper-10mm-Spark-Plug-Spanner-Swivel-Handle-Hex-5-8-A-F-/320974496342?pt=UK_CarsParts_Vehicles_CarParts_SM&hash=item4abb922256

Jarrah

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 I'm a little confused guys (nothing new there..), this link goes to a 10mm tool but Brian's link goes to the info bible which states "The standard spark plug requires a 16mm spanner"...which is it?

Cheers, Scott 

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Well I highly doubt that it is actually 10mm, never seen a spark plug that literally uses a 10mm spark plug spanner to remove it lol. The thread size of the spark plug  is 10mm, that is why it is stated that it is 10mm.

 The size is either 5/8 or 16mm. They are both the equivalent of each other. 

Here is another link that states 10mm but is actually 16mm, don't get confused lol - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/T-HANDLE-BAR-SPARK-PLUG-SPANNER-SOCKET-FOR-10mm-PLUGS-16MM-/181136559263?pt=UK_Hand_Tools_Equipment&hash=item2a2c948c9f

Jarrah

Cubber wrote:

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I think the thread is 10mm dia whereas the hexagonal bit is 5/8 or 16mm

This link shows the dimensions of an NGK plug: CLICKY THINGY

Martyn

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Yes Martyn, correct (as already mentioned in my post above).

Just to clarify, the standard plug is actually a CR9E, NOT a ''C8E'' as stated in the link left by Martyn. The C8E should not be used as it does not have a resistor. The ''R'' in CR8E signifies that it has a resistor. In some countries that are colder it is better to use a CR8E. I use a CR8E or CR9EIX Iridium because it slightly increases power and a more complete burn.

Jarrah 

Cubber wrote:

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Sorry, Jarrah - I was not trying to indicate any particular plug choice or type.

CLICKY THINGY

Martyn

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 All good Martyn.

It was a bit misleading for people with less experience and may have caused some confusion. Just thought I would clear it up before it starts.

Jarrah

While I'm here...what is the gap setting for one of these fancy iridium plugs?

Thanks 

Cubber wrote:

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Seemingly iridium is very weak and fragile, unlike other electrodes, and damage easily.

Martyn

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 Not sure if you are referring to the reliability of the plug or that the electrode can get damaged when cleaning/checking/re-gapping. If you are talking about the reliability of it- Denso and NGK specify iridium being more reliable and longer lasting than usual plugs. If you are talking about the brittle iridium electrode being weak and fragile- care must be taken not to break the brittle tip if re-gapping the plug (not needed usually). Other than that, I see no issue with reliability-

http://www.denso.com.au/Products/Automotive/Spark-Plugs/Iridium-High-performance-Spark-Plugs-Including-Features-and-Benefits

http://www.densoiridium.com/faq.php

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/products/spark_plugs/iridiumix.asp?mode=nml

Jarrah

The 1993~1999 Open Enduro models use the same oil as the blue TTR250's-  Haynes Manual Recommended lubricants for Engine/Transmission are: Type: API grade SE or SF multigrade oil, Viscosity: 40-degrees F(5-degrees C) or above:20W40 or 10-degrees F(-10-degrees C) or below:10W30

According to the FAQ, 1 litre of oil is needed for the metal-tanked models and 1.1 litres for the later plastic-tanked TTRs - unless you have a oil cooler on then it maybe a little more. I am a little sceptic of this as my blue tanked model uses 1.4 litres, not 1.1. 

With an oil cooler it should be about 1.5 litres. If in doubt, add 1.5 litres of oil, start the engine for about 30 seconds and leave it sit for about 16 seconds before checking oil level looking glass.

It is a matter of opinion whether or not to use semi-synthetic oil or mineral oil. IMO- semi-synthetic is better to use after the break-in period.

More interesting info on oil here- http://www.thumperfaq.com/oil.htm

 Enjoy!

Jarrah