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The TTR250 FAQ web pages -> TTR250 -> Repair and maintenance "stickies" -> Oil and filter changing
Post Info TOPIC: Oil and filter changing
TTRfan


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Oil and filter changing
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I have always used Fuchs Silkolene Super 4 10W-40 semi-synthetic motorcycle oil in my TTRs. See  http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silkolene-Super-10W-40-Semi-Synthetic-Motorbike/dp/B007AEX40W

There is a view that it isn't necessary to use a motorcycle-specific engine oil but Super 4 isn't expensive in my view. As our engines only use just over 1 litre at each oil change, I think it is a reasonable insurance policy.

I am also of the view that an air-cooled engine, even in a moderate climate such as in the UK, needs oil with a bit of "body" to it rather than pure synthetic oil - nothing scientific to back that up - just a gut feeling wink

I have tried a lot of different after-market oil filters. I have seen the cheap re-usable ones (which have a simple screen) collapse as they have very little integral strength so I no longer use or recommend those. The best made ones I have found are the Filtrex filters which are very close in design to the genuine Yamaha item.

Brian



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barra8


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RE: So, how do you change the oil?
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First warm the bike up..

Now find a suitable drain tray (old bottle cut ect.).

Loosen the sump plug with a 12mm socket making sure you turn anticlockwise.

Drain oil into tray.

When all oil is drained ,locate the oil filter cap on the right side of the engine. (clutch side). You will see three 5mm allen keys.

Undo these making sure you do not loose the two little o-rings inside the casing. (There will be one big 0-ring too)

Take the filter out & clean it.

Put it back together making sure both small o-rings & large o-ring is installed properly.

Refit sump plug.

Refill oil until it reads right on the looking glass. (under oil filter)

Pat yourself on the back wink

...........................

Jarrah.



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TTRfan


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Jarrah describes the process very well biggrin

A couple of pages from the owners manual show you where the plugs and stuff are:

Changing oil part 1.jpg

 

Changing oil part 2.jpg



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Gcorner


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I always replace the filter, how do you clean it. I would think it's not worth the risk of small holes in the filter but maybe you guys have SUPER filters. Work hardened particles can be very small. What filters are others using, I have been using a stainless type but they are so cheap I assumed they were disposal.


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TTRfan


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If you replace your filter at each oil change then you may be better off using the cheaper disposable "paper" filters. These do filter better than the mesh type I believe.

Otherwise the mesh filters can be carefully washed out in some form of solvent such as petrol but I can't of course recommend such a hazardous procedure with such a dangerous substance!   wink

Brian



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Cubber


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oil / Filter change
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The bolt is there so that a re-built engine can be primed with oil before first starting.

Loosen the bolt, crank motor round till oil weeps out, tighten bolt then start engine.

It's shown on P2-23 of the Service Manual - Item 2 - Check bolt.

Also shown in this as Oil Pressure Inspection diagram:-

Image2.jpg

Martyn

 



-- Edited by Cubber on Saturday 6th of July 2013 08:13:39 AM

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noeyedear


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No need to bleed system. I would also like to know what that bolt is for ??

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Cubber


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It looks like we are both amending our information posts at the same time, JDM_stig. biggrinbiggrin

Same info too. wink

Martyn



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TTRfan


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Oil and filter changing
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There has been a number of questions about changing the TTR's oil and filter so I took some pics of the oil change I have just done.

I will explain how I do it but you may well decide to do things your own way.

Warm the engine first as the warm circulated oil will drain more easily and carry any debris with it.

Remove your sump guard if fitted and make sure that you wash off any dirt from the sump and crankcases.

I prepare by putting a sheet of cardboard covered with newspaper under the TTR as I always seem to spill oil disbelief

I cut a side out of an empty oil can and it is ideal for catching the old oil.

Oil_change 001.jpg

 

Next up is to remove the sump plug. They can be very hard to remove so make sure you use a well-fitting socket (preferably) or spanner. Mine needed a 12mm socket and a huge effort to undo it!

Oil_change 004.jpg

 

Leave the oil to drain. After a while I rock the TTR sideways a couple of times and more oil always drains out. If this is the first time changing the oil on your TTR, it will give you an idea as to how well the previous owner looked after it by the volume and colour/cleanliness of the oil.

Oil_change 005.jpg

 

Next up is to remove the oil filter cover to access and change the oil filter. If you loosen the bottom of the three cover screws before the top two it will allow the oil in the filter to drain into the sump - it's a "drain" screw. That way you don't get oil all over the place as the cover is taken off. 

Oil_change 006.jpg

 

Remove the cover and there is your oil filter. New O ring sets are available here. 

Oil_change 007.jpg

 

Have a good look at the old filter to see what's been caught in it. A small amount of shiny metallic particles is OK. On this occasion I didn't re-use the mesh filter as I didn't know its history and just replaced it with a new Filtrex one.

Oil_change 008a.jpg

 

Fit the new filter (it can only go in one way) and replace the cover having first made sure the two small O rings are in place. Then torque the 3 bolts up to 10Nm.

Oil_change 009.jpg

 

Replace the sump plug after annealing the washer if made of copper or replacing it if made of aluminium.

I use a small jug and funnel to refill the oil. I start with a litre of oil - I use Silkolene Super 4 10w-40 semi synthetic.

Oil_change 010.jpg

I turn the TTR engine over with the choke off to get the oil circulating before pulling out the choke and starting up.

If there are no obvious leaks then, after warming the engine up, I put some clean newspaper underneath to check for any slow leaks.

If all OK, then refit your sump guard if you have one and then top up the oil to the top mark on the sight glass.

Job done!

Brian

 

 



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petenz


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RE: Oil change
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I use Motul 5100 in both my bikes TTR & XT660R...
Motul 5100 is repackaged & sold as Yamalube , Is
cheaper to buy it as motul...

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chrisstdt


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Any semi synthetic 10w 40 will do as long as its for motorbikes as car oil can make your clutch slip

I use the morris oil we sell at work for farm quads as its cheap as s**t ,used to put it in my raptor 700 and it was fine

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pauls ttr


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RE: So, how do you change the oil?
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How Every so many miles should we do this ?


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Cubber


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The manual specifies every 6,000 km or 6 months but I do mine more frequently. wink

It depends on your conscience and how you ride and in what conditions.

Image2.jpg

Martyn



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TTRfan


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Reusable oil filter
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All the pics of your filter I just checked don't show a rubber seal on the engine side of the filter. Seems a bit odd but I guess the seal that is important is the one on the "flow" side which you have. So as long as the filter bolts in tight there shouldn't be a problem.

Brian



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Markvan


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image.jpg

Thanks Brian.  I seen this photo of yours and did a panic. The filter on the right loooks as if it has a rear rubber washer. 



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TTRfan


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All the filters I have seen (apart from your s/s one) have rubber seals at both ends but your type doesn't - but that's not a problem as explained as long as it bolts up tight to the cover wink



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BM Steve


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What's the best type of Oil Filter
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As the title says, what's the best filter

I have these mesh screen things in mine ATM but I don't really like/trust them

please supply some info of where you got them if your in AU

Thanks

 



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petenz


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I use paper.... may as well toss the crap out with the filter...
filters are dirt cheap.... why try and reuse them...
And I'm prob doing 200/ 300km oil changes.. "if that"



..

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BM Steve


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Thanks Pete

I looked up filters, ryco RMC115, there $12.50 each, what a ripoff, I can get a ryco for my Hilux truck for $5 ??

how much do you pay ?

 



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2004 TTR250 - Highway Dirtbike Hand Guards, 38mm Bar Risers, D606 Front & Rear, Opened up Airbox with Twin Air Filter, Re-jetted Carby, B+B Bash Plate & Frame Guards, DIY 3mm Alloy Tail Tidy, 14/47 Gearing.

 
petenz


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I buy them in packs of 10... about $30nz of Tradme a NZ site much like E-bay..

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BM Steve


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Thanks, checked ebay, 10 for $32, much better

 



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leigh


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$3 each is pretty cheap. I just keep reusing mine. Never much in/on it anyway (apart from that one time I drowned my bike), I find a microfibre cloth gets all the fine bits off nicely.

I bought a 10 pack when I got the bike and after a few changes thought it was a waste throwing them out. On the same one for a year or 2 now. Change oil every 800k or so.

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KMAN


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RE: Oil and filter changing
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Top job.

 

out of curiosity how much oil are you putting back in.

i ended up with app 1.1-1.2,

warm it up check the sight glass and it takes a while to get there but roughly shows half full.

 

This sound about right?



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TTRfan


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Rule of thumb on oil capacity is:

1 litre for older 6-plate clutched models

1.1 litres for later model with 7-plate clutch (normally the blue model)

BUT add another 0.1 litre if you have an oil cooler fitted.

I then top up further with a few ceecees until I get the oil about three quarters of the way up the sight glass.

Invariably the TTR needs a tad more oil than the handbooks say.....

Brian



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KMAN


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Hi Brian.
So u run it then shut down then check the level after a few minutes.bike straight up.

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TTRfan


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KMAN wrote:

Hi Brian.
So u run it then shut down then check the level after a few minutes.bike straight up.

 Yep biggrin



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Nomada_Firefox


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oil filter HF141 or HF142?
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I have a TTR250 from the 2005, europe and I am curious about one thing which I see now. The HF142 is set for my motorcycle in the hiflofiltro catalog but other times I bought a HF141. With exception from a mm in size, what are the differences? materials? can the hf141 be used?

At the end, the HF142 is more expensive, 4€ more.

 



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mossproof


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Taken from the FAQ pages:

"The filters most commonly found for sale on the internet are HiFlo. The mesh style ones are HF142 and the paper ones are HF141"

Seems they'll both fit, just better filtration from the paper element, less oil pressure impedance from the mesh - take your pick!

Ride safe,

Simon.

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TTRfan


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RE: Oil and filter changing
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I found a good video showing the oil and filter change procedure on a TTR250 Raid but it's exactly the same as for the Open Enduro.

However, note that the blue models take an extra 100cc of oil, compared to the 6-plate clutch metal-tanked models, as they have a deeper clutch casing to accommodate the 7-plate clutch.

Filters available here and an O ring set here.

Brian



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asap88


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Have a question about oil levels that I havent been able to find the info on so fare, hope someone can help.
When checking your oil level with the sight glass is your bike on its stand? or are you holding it upright ? the service manual does not give this detail.
Only asking as my latest TTR when purchased was over full when held level but was perfect when on its stand.
Thanks

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Kaos


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Should be checked with the bike held in a vertical position..

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Cubber


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Also with both wheels on the ground - not on a lifting stand or prop stand.

The machine's naturally ridden stance as it will be when riding normally. wink

Martyn

 



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asap88


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Thanks guys, thats the way I have always checked the level. Just threw me when I picked the new one up as it seems the level has been taken while on the side stand. Bike had just been serviced at a bike shop, good to know they are on the ball!

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VRSPC


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changed my oil and filter a few days ago, followed the guide to the letter,
now I have a random rattle at certain speeds/revs that I cannot pinpoint,
I cant make the rattle appear raising the revs, only when riding the damn thing.
it sounds like that tinny rattle when a car exhaust heat shield rattles ...... any ideas guys?

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TTRfan


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Hi Paul - sorry to hear of the rattle!

Some possibilities: nut/bolt/washer dropped into sump guard, exhaust heat shield loose, chain catching on corner of guard.

The last is a bit obscure but has had some owners tearing their hair out before they sussed what was happening. Hopefully you can see what I mean from the photos.

Brian

Sprocket cover 2.jpg

Sprocket cover 1.jpg

 



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VRSPC


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Cheers Brian, I shall investigate

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rzrman


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Whats the best filter in your opinion?



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Ruzhynskyi


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Martyn, where did you find that data about changing oil every 6000 km? I have a service manual, there is written that changing every 1000 km.  I think that's for bikes, which take part in competitions or something that, so I change oil every 3 - 3.5 thousand km. Attach screenshot. That's page 3-1 service manual 1999



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Cubber


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Roman,

In 2014 when I posted that reply, I took the information from an Australian handbook

2019-05-20_200458.jpg

I copied the information - it is metric km  - and pasted it as it is shown.

At the time I did comment that I changed mine more frequently.

I now realise that the correct UK handbook gives the details you have shown which are more realistic.

It's amazing that it's taken 4 years to be realized. Thanks for pointing it out.

Martyn

 

 



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