A forum for owners of Yamaha TTR250 trail and enduro bikes!

Michael TTR250 · Veteran Member

Rebuild question

TT-R250M · Super Guru

It is hard to say whether or not the valves are out of spec and how much repair will be needed by a photograph. It may or may not be as bad as it looks. Removing the carbon from the valves may be all that is required but without checking the valve clearance it is hard to say.

If you have a good local Yamaha dealer you may be better of taking it to them to do the work and supply the parts. However, I think you may be better of supplying the parts yourself ( i.e. valves, valve springs) and praying that the valve guides are not ''toast'' . If you need valve guides the cost of parts and labour will basically double, it's not that likely to need guides but a possibility to keep in mind.

I am not trying to sell you anything but- I do have some valves and springs that I removed from a 2005 model head that was in perfect condition. I would be happy enough to sell them as cheap as $15.00 for the set (postage not included) See here- http://ttr250.activeboard.com/t51295235/used-valves-in-vgc/ Just send me a PM if interested.

You can buy cheap genuine Yamaha parts at www.partzilla.com but it can take 2~3 weeks to arrive at your door from the US. Good if your not in a rush. wink

I payed about $120.00 for labour (I supplied the parts and valve guides not needed) to re-seat the valves, port and polish (most of which I did myself), and re-shim the valves to spec. It was through a local mechanic though so through Yamaha it may cost a fair bit more.

Well hope you get it sorted without paying too much.

Good luck!

Jarrah

Michael TTR250 · Veteran Member

Hi Jarrah,

I was just looking at your used valves thread and thinking that could be a win for both of us if that's what's needed.

Just to be clear, so I have this right. if I purchased these valves from you and took them to my local bike mechanic worst case scenario is the list of everything they would need to do is "re-seat the valves, port and polish, and re-shim the valves to spec" and if so, you paid $120 for this labour.

And how much did you want for the 4 valves & springs? Was it $40 plus postage to me in Canberra. I am not trying to haggle you down after your free advice, just unclear about the price after your comment ".....send them for $2.50 including postage (which would be about $8~$10)"

Sorry for my ignorance but is shims other parts I will need or an adjustment process?

Cheers, Michael

Michael TTR250 · Veteran Member

Sorry mate perhaps there was an edit to this post as it now seems to read "......cheap as $15.00 for the set (postage not included)" which is clearer. As mentioned though I am not planning to screw you down after your helpful advise so if you feel the answer to my previous post is that that is all they will need to do (besides as you mentioned worst case scenario if it valve guides as well), I would be happy with $30 for your springs and valves plus postage to Canberra.

Let me know.

Thnaks, Michael

TT-R250M · Super Guru

Hi Michael,

I am happy to send the valves and springs for $35.00 including postage. I am unsure how much postage is but it should be around $10~$15 without tracking or $19.95 with tracking. Sorry, to be unclear on this as I am not entirely sure myself.

Other than valve seals you will have all you need to rebuild the cylinder head, provided that valve guides are not needed (which is the case most of the time). Valve seals and shims are cheap and fit a lot of different models so your mechanic should have them on hand and ready to install. The whole process cost me $120.00 with porting included (I supplied the valves, valve springs, valve seals).

Hope that answers your questions?

Jarrah

TT-R250M · Super Guru

If you want them I am happy to see them go to a good home cheap, rather than sit around here. Just to be clear, $35.00 and I will sort postage out. The only problem is that I usually only deal with PayPal as it is secure but maybe something can be worked out. Just message me if you are interested so we can exchange info ect.

Jarrah

Michael TTR250 · Veteran Member

Sure does mate, how do I pay you? do you want me to direct deposit (perhaps I can give you my mobile number via PM or something so you can text me should be a little more secure than the old internet?)

Cheers, Michael

Michael TTR250 · Veteran Member

posts crossed, I will PM you

TTRfan · Super Guru

Jarrah is correct that valve guides rarely need replacing. The only time I have heard it being necessary was following a valve timing issue a couple of valves had come into heavy contact with the piston and were badly bent. One of them had also cracked the guide. But that was an extreme situation bleh

I expect you found this guide - http://www.ttr250.com/Removing_Cylinder_Head/TTR_head_removal.htm but having looked at again this morning it doesn't really help with the valve clean up so try this one instead - http://ttr250.activeboard.com/t55305883/valve-clean-up/ wink

Any questions just ask!

Brian

Michael TTR250 · Veteran Member

Thanks for that Brian, as mentioned in my first post I am a novice and your guide to removing the cylinder head was brilliant, thank you.

I have purchased those cleaned valves from Jarrah and will have my local dealer install them with new seals and shims, however looking at the second link you sent raised a question. Did you clean up the underside of the head yourself to that pristine state, or is it something you send away for some acid/something treatment?

Cheers, Michael

TTRfan · Super Guru

Michael TTR250 wrote:
however looking at the second link you sent raised a question. Did you clean up the underside of the head yourself to that pristine state, or is it something you send away for some acid/something treatment?

Cheers, Michael

I am pretty sure that you could get a head cleaned to that sort of state using elbow grease and various grades of emery cloth but I cheated and used a bead blaster that I have on loan from a very good mate wink

Brian

TT-R250M · Super Guru

Looking at things realistically- For the novice mechanic, I would not recommend to tackle the valves by themselves as the price that you pay for the correct tools to do the job properly is about the same price as the shop doing it for you. Also, buying a whole shim kit costs about $90.00, and without knowing what size is needed it makes it a hassle to buy them separately. Better off to ''bite the bullet'' and let them have their way with re-seating the valves I think?

Of course you could do it yourself if you are prepared to do the work and buy the tools necessary but that would be your decision.

For AU$35.00 delivered for valves in VGC you can't complain either way wink

Jarrah

TTRfan · Super Guru

TT-R250M wrote:
Looking at things realistically- For the novice mechanic, I would not recommend to tackle the valves by themselves as the price that you pay for the correct tools to do the job properly is about the same price as the shop doing it for you. Also, buying a whole shim kit costs about $90.00, and without knowing what size is needed it makes it a hassle to buy them separately. Better off to ''bite the bullet'' and let them have their way with re-seating the valves I think?
Of course you could do it yourself if you are prepared to do the work and buy the tools necessary but that would be your decision.
For AU$35.00 delivered for valves in VGC you can't complain either way
Jarrah

Hi Jarrah

Doing the valves can be a bit tricky so I don't disagree with you wink

I am not saying it is everyone's cup of tea but knowledge is power biggrin

I provided the extra information to give anyone reading this thread a bit more detail about what is involved. It may help in discussing what needs doing with your mechanic and making sure you don't get snowed.

Brian

Lin · Senior Member

I have a rebored barrel with a new Wiseco 1.00mm O/S forged piston for sale. Never used. $150 plus shipping from NZ.

Michael TTR250 · Veteran Member

Took the head to my local Yamaha dealer today, at first look he thinks valves don't look to bad. He quoted $200 to service head (I know your mechanic cost you $120 Jarrah but as you said Yamaha could be dearer) service includes removing and cleaning current valves (or put in the ones I will supply if they suit better) new seals, and re seat. An extra $6 per shim if they are needed.

Thanks to you both, as you say Brian knowledge is power and because of the information you have both supplied I feel comfortable that I am not getting snowed to badly and as Jarrah pointed out I don't have the tools, and if I am honest I don't feel quite ready to do this part myself yet.

One last question, price aside am I better reboring my current barrel and putting in a new oversized Wossner piston kit or going with the Wiseco from Lin? I guess what I am asking is if barrels are fully interchangeable or do they sort of seat in a bit to head and gearbox and better keeping them as a set??

Cheers, Michael

TTRfan · Super Guru

Michael TTR250 wrote:
One last question, price aside am I better reboring my current barrel and putting in a new oversized Wossner piston kit or going with the Wiseco from Lin? I guess what I am asking is if barrels are fully interchangeable or do they sort of seat in a bit to head and gearbox and better keeping them as a set??

Cheers, Michael

Barrels are completely interchangeable. Anything from Lin (or Jarrah!) will be in mint condition. Also means no hold ups and you can get the TTR back together more quickly. You can then either keep your barrel back as a spare or sell it on.

Brian

Michael TTR250 · Veteran Member

Ok, thanks Brian I will think about it overnight.

Lin, I have a 1999 TTR what year is yours off and does it matter?

Cheers,

TT-R250M · Super Guru

Michael TTR250 wrote:

Lin, I have a 1999 TTR what year is yours off and does it matter?

Cheers,

It does not matter, any TTR250 barrel, piston and head is interchangeable. The only thing being different is the compression ratio on Raid models (not important).

Glad you are getting it sorted without being ripped off. wink

Jarrah

Lin · Senior Member

As Jarrah said it does not matter, barrels are the same. I bought this barrel off Brian some time back, bored it to suit a Wiseco forged piston to fit to my brother's TTR overseas. At the same time I had also bored my TTR and fitted the Wiseco piston. My brother changed his mind so the parts are for sale.

The piston raises the compression ratio about 0.25, but equally importantly being forged it is somewhat lighter than the old cast piston and holds its shape better in operation. I noticed a significant improvement in performance.