Hi everyone! Just got a 2004 (3rd owner) for a trail bike mainly because of the reputation of outstanding durability the bike has. I am having a small issue right out of the gate. The engine starts fine, idles fine, and overall seems to run decently except when I crack the throttle off idle to wheelie over a log or something, the engine will either die or have a flat spot before surging to the desired RPM. When throttle is applied smoothly, which is most of the time, it revs up fine. I have replaced the intake joint from carb to motor and made sure there are no leaks around it. Also the front of the header pipe nearest the engine is bluing. I ran some sea foam through the tank and injected some straight in the fuel line after the petcokc and while i think it helped clean the carb out, it also fouled the plug that came with the bike. Correct me if I'm wrong but from what I hear, running seafoam might have heated the engine to higher temperatures than just using fuel thus causing the bluing? When I pulled the plug, it was black like it was running rich. I put a new plug in and will pull that one tonight or tomorrow to see how this one looks. What do you guys think could be this bikes problem?
Is it normal to hear what sounds like a spring in the fork when riding? It's kind of difficult to try to explain this sound. it's like the sound an old screen door spring makes when you open it but not as intense.
Thank you all for being such a huge help to me up to this point. I have done numerous maintenance tasks on her without even having to to ask a question until now!
-- Edited by 2wheelWillis on Wednesday 16th of October 2013 12:59:47 AM
North Carolina... spent a bit of time there... Use to live in Belton , SC... Use to go to NC hunting... Nice place for 3 months of the year.. rest of the time it's to cold or to hot....
Have fond memoys of spending hours in the back yard with a air rifle
trying to put a dent in the local squirrel population...
Yer must just about be due to be under a metre snow soon..
-- Edited by petenz on Wednesday 16th of October 2013 02:36:35 AM
As for the forks making a noise- NO, that is not normal and if it is your forks making that noise, a rebuild would be in order. Are you sure it is not the rear upper suspension bush?
Jarrah
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2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
Great! thank you for the quick reply. I will pull the carb and accelerator pump and make sure all the holes aren't plugged. How far should I tear down the carb? What cleaning process should I follow and what cleaning solvents do you recommend?
As for the suspension, I'll have a good listen after I get the engine up to snuff. One thing at a time until I learn this bike.
Haha, yeah it is nice in the spring time for sure. Not much snow as I live on the ocean. I love the beach and was stationed here while active duty in the Marines so once they sent me home after my tour was up, I turned around and came right back. Thank you for the input on the suspension! I'll check things out next weekend, unless I'm still working on the engine
At the least I would take apart the fuel bowl, remove the float, check float needle and seat, remove both jets and clean with a fine piece of wire, remove the check valve and clean.
Make sure that it squirts fuel from the accelerator pump nozzle when the carb is full and the throttle is applied. WATCH YOUR EYES!
For cleaning I use contact cleaner or fuel, rather than use those horrible corrosive products. Compressed air is your best friend in this case.
Keep us updated on the forks (or rear suspension bush?) please.
Jarrah
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
4 strokes often bog when u whack open the throttle my wrf does it to . A bit of forward planning is needed .
Check your accelerator pump or re-jet a bit leaner, there is no reason why the TTR should 'bog' dialled in right (or any bike for that matter). You can also ''smooth things out'' by raising or lowering the jet needle clip position..
I don't have a problem on my WR400 either, the only problem with cracking the throttle too fast is that the front wheel may lift further than expected.
Wr's do have a tendency to be jetted too rich for the accelerator pump though.
Jarrah
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
Completely disassembled the carb and soaked for about 3 hours and blasted some compressed air through. Carb looks like new again and all jets and holes are junk free. My diaphragm was pretty toasty so I'm just waiting on that part to come in before reassembly. The o ring on the 5 point mixture screw was toast as well but I'm going to try to find one at the hardware store for maybe .30 rather than 4.00 + processing. I also richened out the needle 1 click so it is now at one click away from richest (lowest) setting. I really have no good reason for this except that I believe the previous owner was living at a higher altitude than me plus the bluing of the header told me maybe I was a little lean. They are the stock us jets at 137 and 50.
-- Edited by 2wheelWillis on Saturday 19th of October 2013 11:01:15 PM
Got the new parts in and the bike runs right. Is it ok that the pipe glows at night? It has great power and just seems like it might be running hot. I want this bike to last and dont want to risk damage