It was pointed out to me that my forks appear to have been dropped through the yolks leaving about 2.5-3 cm of the top of the fork tubes exposed. Have they been dropped through or is that the standard set up? From watching racing I have the most basic of understanding as to why this may be done but had never thought you might do it to a trail bike. The last owner had the seat cut down as she was short of leg, could this be the reason if it's not the standard set up?
Also, are there any more modern bikes from which the front braking assembly could be removed and located on the caliper mounting points on my 95 TTR? I was wondering if it would be cheaper to do this rather than changing pads, seals etc in the calipers, hose etc.
Sounds like the previous owner raised the forks in the triple grips as standard the top of the forks are just protruding from the triple clamps. Having the forks up so high would slightly spoil the geometry of the bike.
As for the front calliper, unfortunately I cannot help other than to advise that YZ/WR calliper will not work for the front. The rear however I have managed to use with no dramas. Well I actually fitted a TTR250 calliper to a WR400 using the WR rear bracket and this was the result- the brake pads cover a little too much of the disc only by a bees penis :). However, this did not seem to be too much of a problem other than the extra wear on the disc/brake pads. In theory, fitting a rear WR calliper to a TTR rear bracket should work just fine.
Jarrah
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
Need to slaken off the yolks anyway as one too many drops on an Enduro test day (run on wet, ice like fields and woods) have moved everything up front a little!
Sorry if it's a silly question but re front brake, i am suffering from ****e braking performance. The bleeding at the caliper nipple whilst adding fluid to the reservoir has been done and worked really well for a couple of rides but went back to being pretty ****e again. Sticking a zip tie around grip and brake lever has been tried twice over a few days and again worked but after a few hours riding go back to... Hence my idea about not messing around replacing bits in the current braking system and just sticking a whole "new" system on (what with most of it probably being 17 years old anyway). The pads seem ok and to a person of little mechanical experience (me) it sounds like air is getting in. What would you try next?
Fork level with the clamp is the standard set up... but you can run the forks up though the clamps..
I have bar risers & my forks are about 40mm though..
what it dose other than lower the seat hight a bit..
it reduces the rake & trail...quicker handleing..
Also moves the rider weight forward putting more
weight on the front wheel..better front trackton..
But it can make front wheel wash out easyer..
Set the bike for how it suits you...
Need to slaken off the yolks anyway as one too many drops on an Enduro test day (run on wet, ice like fields and woods) have moved everything up front a little!
Sorry if it's a silly question but re front brake, i am suffering from ****e braking performance. The bleeding at the caliper nipple whilst adding fluid to the reservoir has been done and worked really well for a couple of rides but went back to being pretty ****e again. Sticking a zip tie around grip and brake lever has been tried twice over a few days and again worked but after a few hours riding go back to... Hence my idea about not messing around replacing bits in the current braking system and just sticking a whole "new" system on (what with most of it probably being 17 years old anyway). The pads seem ok and to a person of little mechanical experience (me) it sounds like air is getting in. What would you try next?
Thanks, Scott
First thing I would check is that the pins are greased adequately and that they are not sticking. The next thing is whether or not the piston is working correctly. If you need a rebuild kit you are probably better off buying a good second hand calliper.
If you need to know how to do this, I took this from my rebuild thread...
I did both my callipers the other day & thought I'd upload this as it is most important to clean out your callipers (especially if you ride off-road). These are 04 model TTR callipers i bought on eBay that looked nearly brand new.
It is most important not to take anything more than what i post in this article off unless it is absolutely necessary! If you disassemble the brake lines be aware that you will need to clean & flush the brake lines & all parts using mentholated spirits (or similar) & replace any parts necessary (not a bad idea if it's been awhile). Absolute care has to be taken if you undo the brake line to insure that dust & water etc.. does not enter the brake line/calliper or fluid lines. Care must be taken when cleaning!
Remember: Do not push the lever in when the caliper is removed or the piston will push out!
Okay now that all the boring stuff is over time to start...
This is a pic to show all the parts (except I had not removed the caliper bracket at this stage)...
First loosen the brake pins using a 5mm Allen key. Note: If these are hard to loosen or look rusty I recommend spraying with WD40 ( & leave to sit) first. Then using either 5mm socket Allen key(or cutting an 5mm Allen key) with a breaker bar attached to loosen the 5mm Allen key pins.
Remove bolts using a 12mm spanner. Note: Put a breaker bar over the spanner if need be.
Now remove the calliper.
3. Remove the pad pins Note: These are usually hard to remove because of all the dirt etc.. I push on the brake pads, fit the 5mm Allen key & wiggle it side to side while using outward pressure.
Remove brake pads
Remove calliper bracket Note: This just pulls out of the rubber boots by hand (if not ceased.
Remove pad spring
At this point you can take the piston covers off. Clean & regrease lightly. (I used rubber grease)
4. Inspect pads for wear. Note: The wear limit on these are 1mm
Inspect calliper body for cracks or damage. (Not likely)
Inspect rubber boot for cracks or damage (highly likely)
Inspect calliper bracket (not likely to have damage)
Inspect guide pins
Inspect pad spring
Clean all components in a solvent (mentholated spirits or similar) For the brake pad pins I like to use emery paper (or 1200-2000 grit sandpaper)
One of mine had a small hole in the rubber boot which i managed to fix with RTV Ultra black silicone (for now)...
5. Lubricate the guide pins.
The recommended lubricant is a lithium based grease (I used Morey's Bigfoot EP2 lithium grease) Note: Wheel grease is not reccomended.
Make sure any excess grease is wiped off with a clean rag.
6. Install calliper bracket (just pushes in)
7.Install pad spring.
Brake pads
Pad pins
You can see how the pad spring should be in the pic below..
Now install the calliper.
If the brake pads do not fit over the disc, use a suitable G-clamp to push the piston back in.
You can bleed the hydraulic system now if you wish but I have never needed to do this for this job.
Job done.
................
Jarrah.
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
As for the front calliper, unfortunately I cannot help other than to advise that YZ/WR calliper will not work for the front. The rear however I have managed to use with no dramas. Well I actually fitted a TTR250 calliper to a WR400 using the WR rear bracket and this was the result- the brake pads cover a little too much of the disc only by a bees penis :). However, this did not seem to be too much of a problem other than the extra wear on the disc/brake pads. In theory, fitting a rear WR calliper to a TTR rear bracket should work just fine.
Jarrah
There was one thing that I forgot to mention about fitting the TTR calliper to my WR400- it was that the brake line did not sit right (as pictured below). This could cause a problem when trying to fit a WR/YZ calliper to a TTR, it could obviously be over come by going to your local brake store and getting it made to fit (bit of a hassle). However using the WR/YZ brake line and bolt may sort this issue.
This was with TTR250 rear calliper on a WR400..
This is with the WR/YZ calliper..
Anyone game to try?
Jarrah
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
