If you look at the attached pic, the small loom inside the white "loop" came off a functioning TTR so it demonstrates the minimalist approach compared to the full Euro loom spread around it.
It includes connections for the CDi, ignition coil, regulator/rectifier, two earth wires (pair joined black wires and a single white wire), ignition kill/starter switches, and the ignition pulsar (can't recall the correct name ).
Sorry it doesn't answer your question but it is interesting to see how little is needed for the TTR to run.
If you remove the main switch, there will be nothing to turn the headlight, taillights, illumination, etc. off....
You will need a switch of some kind to turn the lights off, unless.... you hook the lights up after the ON/OFF switch. Basically, you would unplug the lighting circuit (red wire leading from the rectifier) making sure that the red wire that you unplugged joins to the brown wire leading to the ON/OFF switch and then join/bridge the lighting circuit to the red wire with a black stripe leading from the ON/OFF switch.
Jarrah
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2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
If you remove the main switch, there will be nothing to turn the headlight, taillights, illumination, etc. off....
You will need a switch of some kind to turn the lights off, unless.... you hook the lights up after the ON/OFF switch. Basically, you would unplug the lighting circuit (red wire leading from the rectifier) making sure that the red wire that you unplugged joins to the brown wire leading to the ON/OFF switch and then join/bridge the lighting circuit to the red wire with a black stripe leading from the ON/OFF switch.
Jarrah
There will be no lights/speedo /blinker /etc .. as I want to remove all electrical componts..
I'm only useing it for trail rides & enduros.. so strip it out.. put the YZF forks in... the TTR
makes a good little non competitive play/enduro bike.. now with the GYTR & Brian's header pipe
, the air box mods & Rekluse clutch that little motor has taken on a new lease of life.. and I don't
need to rebuild it every 100 hours..
-- Edited by petenz on Wednesday 25th of September 2013 10:40:38 PM
If you look at the attached pic, the small loom inside the white "loop" came off a functioning TTR so it demonstrates the minimalist approach compared to the full Euro loom spread around it.
It includes connections for the CDi, ignition coil, regulator/rectifier, two earth wires (pair joined black wires and a single white wire), ignition kill/starter switches, and the ignition pulsar (can't recall the correct name ).
Sorry it doesn't answer your question but it is interesting to see how little is needed for the TTR to run.
Brian
would I be lucky enough for you to have & want to part with that loom ?
years ago when I was raceing TQ midets... the Honda CB750 motor you could
unrap the loom make 3 cuts & ignition section could be removed the 3 cut wires
were earth , kill switch , power in..
maybe possable do simular with the TTR loom..
-- Edited by petenz on Wednesday 25th of September 2013 10:30:32 PM
would I be lucky enough for you to have & want to part with that loom ?
Hi Pete
Sorry for the slow response. Have had "gents" problems and have spent much of the week in and out of hospital. Not a very nice experience and I won't be riding for a week or two yet
I have kept the cut-down loom more for interest than anything else. I am always impressed with anyone who knows their way around TTR electrics and the person that cut back the loom is on my list!
I will put it on the scales and email you a price to include shipping. No point in re-inventing the wheel eh?
I'm going to be doing the same as the OP and removing all of the elecrical components I don't need for trail riding. Would be great if I could buy one of these minimal looms - are they available?