A forum for owners of Yamaha TTR250 trail and enduro bikes!

Kenny R · Veteran Member

Raid revival

TTRfan · Super Guru

Hi Kenny

The Raid has a lot of steel parts (e.g. swing arm, linkage arm and bottom shock yoke) whereas the OEs had these parts in aluminium.

I can see that, if neglected, linkages could seize solid.

Heat is likely to be your only answer.

If you are going to replace the swing arm with the lighter OE version then I am pretty sure that it is just possible to get a hacksaw blade in between the frame and the swing arm cap to cut through the bolt at both sides.

Second-hand linkages, swing arms and bottom shock yokes from the OE are readily available.

Good luck with your "Raid revival"!

Brian

Markvan · Guru

Nice clear photos , looks like you have a few jobs to do to get the machine up to scratch.

I hav a 2007 model thats only been on the dirt twice. In a few years i guess i will be doing the same

jobs your doing now. So im reading and learning now All the possible TTR repairs.

TT-R250M · Super Guru

Nice work Kenny

The bolt that you can't remove from the lower shock linkage (not the swingarm bolt) has Loctite on it.... Heat will help to break the seal.

The rubber intake joint (stub) that goes from the carb to the intake is not usual (obviously) and you will need to replace it.

The Raid model uses the same forks as the OE model, in fact all TTR250's use the same forks.

Jarrah

TTRfan · Super Guru

A couple of differences between your forks and the later models is that your chrome stanchion tube is parallel along its length whereas the later tubes are "waisted" where they go through the yokes. Also the hex nut on the bottom of the Raid forks is steel whereas later models had aluminium ones.

The pic below is of a later fork. Part 3 is missing on your fork plus you have an extra short spring.

Brian

Forks - legend of parts.jpg

TT-R250M · Super Guru

Wow nice work Brian

I just looked at the part number of the legs and they are the same. Who would have known that they changed the insides.

Jarrah

TT-R250M · Super Guru

It would be good to see how far the cams are out of alignment but the way you describe it and from the picture it looks to be from a worn cam chain.

Jarrah

Kenny R · Veteran Member

Hi, lining up the engines own TDC mark looks like this, but the piston is not at true TDC.

With the engine at true TDC it looks like this,

It is not a full tooth out in fact barely half of a chain pin.

As the engine is showing no signs of wear on any other components I don't think it is chain wear.

Checked the clutch over today and it is like new as well.

-- Edited by Kenny R on Sunday 23rd of February 2014 03:01:34 PM

TT-R250M · Super Guru

It seems okay to me

Jarrah

sammyttr · Senior Member

My carb boot has done Same and split cut out in water and popped through air box once or twice

Kenny R · Veteran Member

Well, I now have some blue bits and some black bits.

I am very glad Brian has posted loads of pics where every thing goes.

Cup of tea first.

-- Edited by Kenny R on Wednesday 22nd of January 2014 03:03:36 PM

-- Edited by Kenny R on Wednesday 22nd of January 2014 05:52:02 PM

TTRfan · Super Guru

Looking very good Kenny! What paint finish did you use?

If I don't get a move on your Raid will be on the road before my current project TTR biggrin

Brian

Kenny R · Veteran Member

Got fed up waiting for my nephew to paint it so just had it powder coated.

Ultramarine is the shade of blue, looks ok.

Going to swill some rust converter through the frame tubes first before bolting bits on.

March or April will be soon enough for me. biggrin

Kenny R · Veteran Member

If you are changing your steel swingarm for an alloy one, note that they use different rear axle due to the alloy arm being twice as thick as the steel one where the wheel mounts.

Cheers Brian. smile

-- Edited by Kenny R on Thursday 13th of February 2014 10:47:35 PM

TTRfan · Super Guru

Phew - glad it worked out Kenny!

I had a look through my spares box and now understand why one of the axles is shorter than the others wink

Kenny R · Veteran Member

Getting there, Brian this is the offset on the bottom shock mount that I was unsure if it faced the front or to the rear??

IT LIVES..........

TT-R250M · Super Guru

Kenny R wrote:
Getting there, Brian this is the offset on the bottom shock mount that I was unsure if it faced the front or to the rear??

According to www.partzilla.com and the service manual the bolt bolts in from the left side of the bike. However, I highly doubt that it actually does.

Diagram of Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 1999 TTR250LC REAR SUSPENSION Diagram

The manual suggests that the offset goes to the rear so the bolt would be bolted from the right side.

2014-02-23 11.44.27.jpg

I have mine bolted from the right side (offset at the rear) and have had no troubles.

Funnily enough, when ''Yamaha'' removes the bolt, they do so from the right side (not the left as their picture suggests). biggrin biggrin biggrin biggrin

2014-02-23 10.49.20.jpg

The bolt MUST not be over-tightened or it strips the alloy thread (don't ask how I know ;). It's steel with the original Raid mount so it may not be a problem. I like to use blue Loctite (medium strength) on the bolt as and it has a habit of loosening and ruining the thread on me.

Jarrah

TTRfan · Super Guru

That was worth the effort Kenny - really looks the business - must be the best looking Raid around biggrin

To keep it looking original, what about fitting some YAMAHA decals to the swing arm? See here. I got a couple of sets in stock....

Jarrah has supplied the info on the shock. All I can say is that I always put the bolt in from the RHS of the TTR.

The conclusive check would be for a member with a new TTR to have a look and see how they come from the factory wink

Brian