I have just back from my first trail riding ride and it was bl@@dy great fun!
However...i managed to flip her . Her arse in now banana shaped . I have looked at the sub frame and looking from the rear it is bent and possibly has a crack. On the left side, from rear, there appears to be a bolt holding it to the main frame but on the right side it appears to be welded...help
Looks like a new style ....I did much the same but not to the same degree ...
As far as I know it's all welded the only bit that un bolts is the bar by the air filter , the rest is welded !
It may me a case of strip the plastics off and seat to see how much damage is done!
Brian is poss. The best one to confer with on this , (not saying you have been here Brian, just you know the frame better) ! you may be able to apply heat and use a pulling force to bring it back into line but there is a chance that you may kink the tubes , there again it mat be better to cut and replace the bent bits and sleeve the joints ....tough one
The frame is as mentioned above. Depending on how bad it is, you can cut it completely from the frame and replace the whole piece or... straighten and weld the original (if possible).
If worst comes to worst, I have that part already chopped off a frame. Maybe Brian has that part though?
Jarrah
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
Strip off the rear mudguard and wires, give it a good clean and find a mate who is good with a MIG welder and grinder - and, preferably, has some propane or oxy/acetylene heating gear.
You will need to straighten up the subframe and insert something solid between the frame parts where the crack is before welding.
On the RH side where the frame is kinked, some clever use of heat and hammers might get the kink out.
At the end of the day that section of the subframe isn't doing a great deal more than supporting the rear mudguard and number plate holder!
I have a bike builder in mind...I intend to butter him up with breakfast tomorrow at Goodwood! The rear subframe does seem pretty pointless as all it does do its support the exhaust, lights and plate! Also, why on earth isn't it a bolt on item, I may be soaking behind the ear but I'm sure others have done this before and any designer/engineer must have been able to predict such happenings.
Now, err, when the bike landed on the end of the left side of the bars ( hard ) it seems to have left the left grip an inch in front of the right (so to speak)....
The sub-frame also holds your ass on the seat so it does support a fair bit of weight. If carrying a passenger that adds to the weight (obviously). That said it does not support anything structural so it's not too much of a worry.
Hope you have it sorted soon.
Jarrah
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
Ive collected her and the sub frame looks as good as new (almost..). It was a b*gger to do but a big thank you to Steve at Red Max!! (Google the name if you fancy a unique flat tracker or Cafe racer )
Now all i have to do is not flip her ever again..
-- Edited by scotty72 on Thursday 6th of June 2013 10:18:46 PM
If you click on the origional link I have put on three new pics. It's a bit difficult to get detail as you cant see a repair, but the last two picks show the plastics are now where they should be and not stuck up in the air! He's reinforced the tubes internaly as well.
Going on a ride with the TRF this Sunday on a newbies ride...after last weekend I think it shouldn't be too challenging and hopefully I wont be having to do anything to the bike appart from wash it
Scott
-- Edited by scotty72 on Friday 7th of June 2013 06:49:28 PM
Good to see it's all straight agan....nice job too
lets see how the repair you are doing on the bare frame Is going dave and a picture
Hey Adrian, it seems that you missed the post above. See below...
scotty72 wrote:
Hi
If you click on the original link I have put on three new pics. It's a bit difficult to get detail as you cant see a repair, but the last two picks show the plastics are now where they should be and not stuck up in the air! He's reinforced the tubes internally as well.
Going on a ride with the TRF this Sunday on a newbies ride...after last weekend I think it shouldn't be too challenging and hopefully I wont be having to do anything to the bike apart from wash it
Scott
-- Edited by scotty72 on Friday 7th of June 2013 06:49:28 PM
Enjoy!
Jarrah
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +