A forum for owners of Yamaha TTR250 trail and enduro bikes!

Members Login
Username 
 
Password 
    Remember Me  
Post Info TOPIC: Two TTR's..Both Blue OE - Not Same


Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 8
Date:
Two TTR's..Both Blue OE - Not Same
Permalink  
 


Tale of Two TTR's ....Read On only if you're interested in height issues or general clues about buying bikes. (comments or tips welcome..i'm still learning)

As a TTR enthusiast i have ended up with two of them. A 2002 and a 2006.

The newer bike is the latest addition and had done only 1600 km's when i bought it. It was supposed to be "immaculate" but (long story) i did not check it over too thoroughly and only later found a few issues..I love "stock" bikes with only sensible improvements where justified..I was not impressed when i found that the air duct/manifold intake thing at the top of the airbox ,had been removed. Who would do such a thing ?!?                                                                                                                                                An essential part costing @ $90 is there for a good reason. Only a bonehead would take it out plus then 'lose' the part along with the tailpiece etc..(IMHO).

The clue initially was that the entire airbox was filled with beach sand including the air filter which was thoroughly clogged. Grrrr..Tackling that situation led to a week stranded in the city sleeping rough wondering why the bike would not start. Thought maybe the carby was compromised by sand ?                                                           Difficult to work on the bike where i was but i pulled things apart as best i could and checked everything.

Got a new filter..Recharged the battery..Filled the tank..Cleaned carby intake ,hose going in and of course the airbox etc..Inspected all wiring connections.

Took out the plug ,checked for spark ,then cranked the motor over in an effort to clear the carby if possible..The third time i tried doing that the plug fell to bits !! Aha !!

Got a new plug and at last the bike started !! Inflated the tyres (the seller said not to bother because it was all set to go,.when in actual fact the tyres were at 6psi front and 9psi rear !! Up they went to the stock 22 and 25psi).  Changed the oil and filter which both confirmed that again the seller had lied ..                                                              Finally i got the bike ready and rode the 300 km's home..Only then i could sit the two TTR's beside each other and make comparisons.

The newer bike was also missing its tailpiece (?) so i bought one for $50 delivered (e-bay). Also gave it the barkbusters off of the 2002 TTR. Better than stock front fender on its way also so that the 2002 can get the newer stock one (since the plan was to sell the 2002).

The main difference now ,which was intriguing at first ,is the actual seat height difference between the two bikes.

The 2002 bike had the stock Dunlop 605's which were first replaced at 8500 km's which i think is an impressive mileage for a tyre. That bike now has "Trail Wolf" tyres which seem OK.  Meanwhile the 2006 bike has Dunlop 606's ,which are more of an offroad version of the Dunlop 605's..Checking the tread depth i found them to be taller tyres.(taller by 20mm)

So the 2002 TTR has the stock seat height of 890mm ,which i like. The 2006 TTR has the seat height of 940mm which i do not like at all.                                                         The 606 tread might explain away the first 20mm..out of the 50mm difference.                                                                                                                                                  From the forums on here i'm thinking maybe the front forks have been tampered with or the rear shockie might be wound up to its limit ?                                                  Theres another 30mm to account for. The seller was shorter than me and in retrospect ,slightly bogus.                                                                                                                (I did get him to put it in writing that the bike is NOT stolen or in debt. Drivers Licence I.D. etc ,plus the usual paperwork)

Not sure how to tackle either front shocks or rear shock issue but at least i can compare the two TTR's and see if the manual is any help.

Its not my preference to go chopping up the seat for lowering purposes ,especially since the centre of gravity of the bike would not be lowered at all and i do like the stock seat the way it is. The 2006 TTR is essentially a molested bike and all i want to do is get it back to "normal". Luckily the sprockets are stock ,as is everything else now.

Now the bike can be appreciated and looked after the way it deserves ,but ridden as much as possible of course !!                                                                                         The height however needs to be reduced. Makes it harder to ride in soft sand in my opinion.                                                                                                                               Today i hit the soft stuff face-first several times. Steering seems more difficult on the taller settings. Front end also seems less trustworthy on the bitumen.                             It jumps OK but so does the lower 2002 one. When parked ,the taller bike leans over too far as  well.     Buyer Beware (i know ,i know)..  Rolls eyes at self.

m_CIMG2202.jpg



-- Edited by TTRfan on Saturday 25th of May 2013 05:53:48 PM

__________________


Super Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 1324
Date:
Permalink  
 

Hello YAMA-HAHA and welcome to the forum- where we all (just about) pull our snorkel out, or modify a larger one (for performance) and loose the bloody thing (either that or it gets hacked) biggrin .

Here are the specifications for both models mentioned, as you can see they are both exactly the same (contrary to your post).

Specifications

Model 2006 TT250RW

Overall length 2.195 mm (86.4 in)

Overall width 835 mm (32.9 in)

Overall height 1.255 mm (49.4 in)

Seat height   910 mm (35.8 in)

Wheel base 1.410 mm (55.5 in)

Ground clearance 300 mm (11.81 in)

Maximum turning radius 2.200 mm (86.6 in)

...........................................................................................................

Specifications

Model 2002 TT250RP

Overall length 2.195 mm (86.4 in)

Overall width 835 mm (32.9 in)

Overall height 1.255 mm (49.4 in)

Seat height 910 mm (35.8 in)

Wheel base 1.410 mm (55.5 in)

Ground clearance 300 mm (11.81 in)

Maximum turning radius 2.200 mm (86.6 in)

.....................................................................

Try adjusting your suspension to suit your style (as has been done with your bikes).

If you want to lower it by adjusting the settings here is a starting point... CLICK HERE

In addition to that, you can adjust the rear suspension by- removing the rear shock, loosening the lock nut (this is above the upper bracket) and turning the ''upper bracket'' (part number 2 below) clockwise until the maximum setting is reached (MAKING SURE THAT THE BRACKET IS THE SAME WAY AROUND AS PICTURED BELOW).

Diagram of Yamaha Motorcycle Parts 1999 TTR250LC REAR SUSPENSION Diagram

Enjoy!

Jarrah

 



__________________

2000 TT-R250M-

Spoiler



Veteran Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 33
Date:
Permalink  
 

Jarrah

That way of adjusting the suspension you have put with the diagram, thanks. have you any idea how much it will take out of seat height??? I have installed the Kouba link and softened the spring as much as it will go and chopped the seat but still on toes. It sucks having stunt rundle legs when there are so many nice bikes that are just to tall for me.

Paul

__________________


Super Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 1324
Date:
Permalink  
 

Aussie Paul wrote:

Jarrah

That way of adjusting the suspension you have put with the diagram, thanks. have you any idea how much it will take out of seat height??? I have installed the Kouba link and softened the spring as much as it will go and chopped the seat but still on toes. It sucks having stunt rundle legs when there are so many nice bikes that are just to tall for me.

Paul


 Depending on where it is set...

If set at factory setting- ''it'' should lower it about 30 mm. Doesn't sound like much but once sitting on it you will notice.

No problems Paul, anytime

Jarrah



__________________

2000 TT-R250M-

Spoiler



Veteran Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 33
Date:
Permalink  
 

Thanks Jarrah you are the TTR godworship.gif



__________________


Super Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 1324
Date:
Permalink  
 

Aussie Paul wrote:

Thanks Jarrah you are the TTR godworship.gif


 I like to think BRIAN is the god, I am just his ''god sent'' helper hahahahaha biggrin wink

Jarrah



__________________

2000 TT-R250M-

Spoiler



Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 8
Date:
Permalink  
 

Oh wow ,i only just figured how to check the topic and very pleased at the responses..
Well done on the specs Jarrah...I got hold of an owners manual and sure enough it stated the seat height at 910mm...

So it seems that TTR-1 is 20mm below that ,and TTR-2 is 20mm above.... Checking the tread again the more knobby tyres are maybe 6-8mm taller.

After taking a few measurements it became clear that the height is in the tail end.
I adjusted the 2 click-click dials (one atop a canister next to the motor ,and the other at the base of the rear spring)
So the manual says the "preload setting" (?) needs adjusting ,which thanks for the link on that becos they don't say how..(Only to get a dealer to do it)

Apologies if i offended anyone that mauls or removes the air duct intake thing. I'm only starting to realise how a bike can be tuned to the rider and the riding they do.
Today i put a new tail piece on the 2006 bike for $50,.since i figured its good for me to have a rego plate light at night ,just for safety..Will probably mount a spare LED brake light where the rego plate usually goes as well...Theres been two rear end smashes in the local area in the past week ,and thats just people i know.
One was a lady who often drives drunk at any time of the day and is a menace behind the wheel. I told her a while back that she could easily kill someone on a motorbike the way she drives. So a second tail light might help drunks ,druggo's and drongo's to see me if i am forced to stop somewhere like an intersection.

Today i also got the new front fender..Its a Cycra brand from the U.S. Unfortunately they sent me a YZF one ,not a TTR one. Its not a proper fit ,so looks like another one on the way.
Soon as i get a chance i will tackle the rear shockie adjustment. Then i will also check the front fork pressures.

Quite liking this site. PS..i think i also got it wrong when i said they were "OE" models ,which Jarrah set that straight also:)
lol..Did i mention i'm an older age ,over enthusiastic licenced learner ,renowned for wearing safety gear ,with pain-killers in my pocket and eyes in the back of my head ?!?

Anyway ,thanks again you guys !!

__________________


Super Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 1324
Date:
Permalink  
 

No problems YAMA-HAHA

I am always here to help!

Enjoy!



__________________

2000 TT-R250M-

Spoiler



Veteran Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 33
Date:
Permalink  
 

Jarrah

Using the method of turning the upper bracket on the rear suspension to decrease height did not work for me.

I had 9.5 mm that could be adjusted. The bracket was turned as per instructions and placed back facing the same way. All looked ok with the spring just missing the swingarm until I sat on the bike.

The spring hits the swingarm as per piccys. Was a good idea in theory thou.cryIMG_0661.JPGIMG_0660.JPG



Attachments
__________________


Super Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 1324
Date:
Permalink  
 

 

Aussie Paul wrote:

Jarrah

Using the method of turning the upper bracket on the rear suspension to decrease height did not work for me.

I had 9.5 mm that could be adjusted. The bracket was turned as per instructions and placed back facing the same way. All looked ok with the spring just missing the swingarm until I sat on the bike.

The spring hits the swingarm as per piccys. Was a good idea in theory thou.cry


 Are you sure that you got the bracket the right way around? On a second look at the exploded view above it looks as though they got it the wrong way around!

Turn the bracket the other way, it should bolt from the right side NOT the left.

Also, adjust until it clears the swingarm, no further! That should have been more than 9.5 mm unless someone adjusted this already.

Jarrah



__________________

2000 TT-R250M-

Spoiler



Super Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 1324
Date:
Permalink  
 

Taken from the right side of the bike, Take note of the bolt right side of pic, it is the shock bracket....

I just measured how far I adjusted it and it does seem that 9.5mm is the maximum adjustment though. I though it was more from memory?

Still, 9.5 mm is quite a difference.

If you want to remove the black mark on your swingarm, use thinners and a rag.

Jarrah



__________________

2000 TT-R250M-

Spoiler



Veteran Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 33
Date:
Permalink  
 

Ok, lets get the right side and left side sorted for our discussion. To me chain side is left side as I sit on bike. My upper bracket is the same as the diagram and has not been previously touched, When I removed the set up I felt tip penned all parts with a line as to ensure everything went back as it came out. The reason mine does not work may be as I have a KOUBA link which has changed the dimensions from original.blankstare I cant believe that is a photo of your suspension link, mine has 13 years of crud on it your looks brand newwink

IMG_0662.JPG



Attachments
__________________


Super Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 1517
Date:
Permalink  
 

YAMA-HAHA wrote:

Oh wow ,i only just figured how to check the topic and very pleased at the responses..
Well done on the specs Jarrah...I got hold of an owners manual and sure enough it stated the seat height at 910mm...

So it seems that TTR-1 is 20mm below that ,and TTR-2 is 20mm above.... Checking the tread again the more knobby tyres are maybe 6-8mm taller.

After taking a few measurements it became clear that the height is in the tail end.
I adjusted the 2 click-click dials (one atop a canister next to the motor ,and the other at the base of the rear spring)
So the manual says the "preload setting" (?) needs adjusting ,which thanks for the link on that becos they don't say how..(Only to get a dealer to do it)

Apologies if i offended anyone that mauls or removes the air duct intake thing. I'm only starting to realise how a bike can be tuned to the rider and the riding they do.
Today i put a new tail piece on the 2006 bike for $50,.since i figured its good for me to have a rego plate light at night ,just for safety..Will probably mount a spare LED brake light where the rego plate usually goes as well...Theres been two rear end smashes in the local area in the past week ,and thats just people i know.
One was a lady who often drives drunk at any time of the day and is a menace behind the wheel. I told her a while back that she could easily kill someone on a motorbike the way she drives. So a second tail light might help drunks ,druggo's and drongo's to see me if i am forced to stop somewhere like an intersection.

Today i also got the new front fender..Its a Cycra brand from the U.S. Unfortunately they sent me a YZF one ,not a TTR one. Its not a proper fit ,so looks like another one on the way.
Soon as i get a chance i will tackle the rear shockie adjustment. Then i will also check the front fork pressures.

Quite liking this site. PS..i think i also got it wrong when i said they were "OE" models ,which Jarrah set that straight also:)
lol..Did i mention i'm an older age ,over enthusiastic licenced learner ,renowned for wearing safety gear ,with pain-killers in my pocket and eyes in the back of my head ?!?

Anyway ,thanks again you guys !!


 To adjust the rear spring preload, remove the seat & right side cover, remove the battery & battery box.  The spring preload adjuster will then be in full view.

Back off the top locking nut & wind the adjuster nut up the shocker but make sure the spring still has some preload.  Lock the nuts together & reassemble.  I did this to mine in the 1st week.

911841_10151399703247864_1273940578_n.jpg?oh=2d88ce48238ceaf91c4aabc2f9c63cf1&oe=51A88EF4&__gda__=1369983004_c241ed014fe0d5e40aef5602be0fa21e



__________________

TT-R250 & WR250R for dirty fun

Triumph Thruxton for the twisties SOLD

Triumph Scrambler for fun

 YOUTUBE channel https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCPSstOEnd2NSu0Va6kt2ySg



Super Guru

Status: Offline
Posts: 1324
Date:
Permalink  
 

 

Aussie Paul wrote:

Ok, lets get the right side and left side sorted for our discussion. To me chain side is left side as I sit on bike. My upper bracket is the same as the diagram and has not been previously touched, When I removed the set up I felt tip penned all parts with a line as to ensure everything went back as it came out. The reason mine does not work may be as I have a KOUBA link which has changed the dimensions from original.blankstare I cant believe that is a photo of your suspension link, mine has 13 years of crud on it your looks brand newwink

 


 The Kouba link may have something to do with it as you say, I was sure I got more but hard to measure with it fitted.

Your linkage is the right way around but if you look at the exploded diagram it looks the wrong way? It may just be me lol.

When talking left and right sides the side that is on the left when sitting on the bike is left and the other side is right.

I rebuilt my bike a few months ago so that is why everything is so clean. wink

Jarrah



__________________

2000 TT-R250M-

Spoiler



Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 8
Date:
Permalink  
 

Thanks terryK for the info and pic..i will have a crack at it soon i think...since it needs doing and its kinda fun working on the bike(s) even for a mechanical neanderthal like me.
Just a side note as to the secondary brake light i mentioned at the start....Today i took the plunge and got the light fully operational.
Removed the stock light so as to access the wires. Where to make the joins is the main consideration..Theres a channel that carries the stock cable ,three wires (blue ,yellow ,black) in a grey sheath...Depending on the connectors you use ,theres not that much room in that channel ,although theres extra height due to the rubbers where the brake light shell bolts go thru the rear fender.
So anyway ,i used yellow tube style joiners crimped ,taped etc..In one end went the stock wire which i did not cut but just peeled off a section of the plastic insulation to reveal the copper within...I doubled the exposed wire back on itself and stuck it in one end of the yellow joiner. In the other end of the joiner went the wire coming from the new LED secondary brake light. The 3 wires from the LED were matching colours so i figured that would make it straight forward. HOWEVER what i found was that wired same colour to same colour ,the tail light was on as normal ,but did not brighten with the brakes applied. So i swapped the yellow and blue wires since the green one goes to the black of the stock as the Earth wire. (pretty sure thats right)..
So ,the way it now works with those connections ,is better than what i thought possible. The LED is a bit bright ,so i don't really want it on until i apply the brakes. That way its much more noticeable when the brakes come on and less distracting otherwise since its not on without any brakes applied. The rego plate light is always on as normal.
The LED i used was from Ebay ,but for slightly more i have seen them at Supercheap Auto as well. It comes complete with a pretty good mounting bracket.
I
I really do think its a great set-up..I also tried to fit an LED into the stock brake light. Just an LED bulb that should go straight in...Unfortunately that bulb would not fit due to it being a cheap and nasty design which is too fat where it needs to push into the bulb holder.
2am i gotta sleep.

__________________


Member

Status: Offline
Posts: 8
Date:
Permalink  
 

YAMA-HAHA wrote:

Thanks terryK for the info and pic..i will have a crack at it soon i think...since it needs doing and its kinda fun working on the bike(s) even for a mechanical neanderthal like me.
Just a side note as to the secondary brake light i mentioned at the start....Today i took the plunge and got the light fully operational.
Removed the stock light so as to access the wires. Where to make the joins is the main consideration..Theres a channel that carries the stock cable ,three wires (blue ,yellow ,black) in a grey sheath...Depending on the connectors you use ,theres not that much room in that channel ,although theres extra height due to the rubbers where the brake light shell bolts go thru the rear fender.
So anyway ,i used yellow tube style joiners crimped ,taped etc..In one end went the stock wire which i did not cut but just peeled off a section of the plastic insulation to reveal the copper within...I doubled the exposed wire back on itself and stuck it in one end of the yellow joiner. In the other end of the joiner went the wire coming from the new LED secondary brake light. The 3 wires from the LED were matching colours so i figured that would make it straight forward. HOWEVER what i found was that wired same colour to same colour ,the tail light was on as normal ,but did not brighten with the brakes applied. So i swapped the yellow and blue wires since the green one goes to the black of the stock as the Earth wire. (pretty sure thats right)..
So ,the way it now works with those connections ,is better than what i thought possible. The LED is a bit bright ,so i don't really want it on until i apply the brakes. That way its much more noticeable when the brakes come on and less distracting otherwise since its not on without any brakes applied. The rego plate light is always on as normal.
The LED i used was from Ebay ,but for slightly more i have seen them at Supercheap Auto as well. It comes complete with a pretty good mounting bracket.
I
I really do think its a great set-up..I also tried to fit an LED into the stock brake light. Just an LED bulb that should go straight in...Unfortunately that bulb would not fit due to it being a cheap and nasty design which is too fat where it needs to push into the bulb holder.
2am i gotta sleep.


 



Attachments
__________________
Page 1 of 1  sorted by
Quick Reply

Please log in to post quick replies.



Create your own FREE Forum
Report Abuse
Powered by ActiveBoard