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Post Info TOPIC: TTR-250 Teikei Y30P Re-build thread


Super Guru

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TTR-250 Teikei Y30P Re-build thread
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I thought I would upload this for people wanting to understand the TTR250 carb. Hope you enjoy it.

 

 

 1994 standard Teikei Y30P                                                                                             2004 standard Teikei Y30P

 

9168_499997303367079_88531365_n.jpg

 

 

 

Tools needed for the job

...................................

Small flathead screwdriver.

Medium flathead screwdriver.

Medium Philip's head screwdriver.

Small Philip's head screwdriver.

8mm spanner.

6mm spanner.

12mm open-ended spanner.

toothpick or probe to remove old seals.

Nail or similar to remove the float pin.

1.5mm drill bit to make float pin holes a bit bigger.

Air compressor (& or carb cleaner).

Fine wire for cleaning the diaphragm jet (I used a strand of throttle cable wire).

....................................................................................

Parts needed for the job...

Top Gasket : 4GY-14198-01-00

Side Cover O-ring : 1HV-14147-00-00

Diaphram 0-rings x2 : 5Y1-14397-00-00

Diaphragm : 4GY-14940-00-00

Diaphragm Springs x2 : 6G8-14275-00-00

Float Chamber Gasket : 4GY-14384-00-00

Pilot Jet #50 : 43F-14342-25-00

 

Please Note: The jet's used below are from my bike, so you cannot use these unless you upgrade first. I did not need the float set on either of my carburetor's so this is not shown.

 

I will be starting with an already stripped carb but to remove these components is the opposite so you shouldn't have any trouble.

First thing is to make sure you have soaked the carb overnight in solvent (if clogged).

Then blow all holes & air holes out with an air compressor (or spray solvent) & clean all components.

Make sure all holes in your jets are spotless including sideways. You should see the holes below...

 

45099_499998220033654_535337416_n.jpg

 

 

 

 

Now that all is clean,fit jets.

If fitting a larger main jet unscrew the main jet from the nozzle using the 6mm & 8mm spanner's (if standard)...

 

391910_499997933367016_871713751_n.jpg

 

Then screw the new one in tight.

Fit your needle & float. To do this, slip the needle retaining clip over the float, than install so that you can see the TK on the float...

 

320567_499998236700319_1515583139_n.jpg

 

Then slip the splash stop cover over...

23892_499998376700305_2131050100_n.jpg

 

 

Moving to the float bowl,fit the diaphragm & o-rings into bowl,making sure they seat properly....

 

21664_499998786700264_1247006652_n.jpg

 

I like to use a smear of rubber grease for a long-lasting result. Any excess grease should be wiped off with a clean rag.

 

Rubber Grease

 

PBR rubber grease is a high performance Castor oil-based grease designed to preserve and lubricate plastics, rubber and components such as O-rings, valves, diaphragms, cups and seals. It is available in a range of pack sizes for both retail and the workshop.

 

Posted Image

Now the tricky part...Installing the spring...

 

To install the spring...place it on the top of the diaphragm with the bowl upside down.. Now install the cover making sure that the spring stays seated properly.

Tighten the two screws.

Now turn the bowl over & install the check valve... Note: This can get lost easy so be careful!

 

374506_499999050033571_1960724956_n.jpg

 

Now fit the bowl gasket & tighten the three screws.

Moving on....

Fit the side cover 0-ring making sure it's seated properly...

 

532515_500004373366372_901186998_n.jpg

 

Now fit cover & tighten

To install the throttle lever, first use rubber grease (or copper) on the shaft.. Make sure the spring goes in correctly...

 

559755_542102079156601_676670436_n.jpg

 

Install the large rubber seal to shaft & small rubber seal to the hole above (middle of spring).

Then make sure the plastic washer goes on...

 

63268_542276995805776_1529895731_n.jpg

 

Then pre-load the spring...To do this install the spring to throttle levers & turn until it goes into place making sure that it does not ''catch'' on the carb body when turning. When fitted it should look like so....

 

559755_542102079156601_676670436_n.jpg

 

Once that is in,fit the clip from the top. This will go on next to where the plastic washer sits.

When taking this off use cir-clip pliers or two screwdrivers to start it off than turn it around & remove it when in the right position to do so.

Note: The plastic washer goes closest to throttle lever.

 

.483433_500000936700049_301187409_n.jpg

 

Now fit the diaphragm lever spring...

Then fit the diaphragm lever arm. To do this push it down with a flathead screwdriver while tightening screw...

401588_500037620029714_267427843_n.jpg

 

The screw is pictured below.

403138_500001283366681_769086303_n.jpg

 

If you have not already fitted the slider screw you should now do that...

29622_500001370033339_1673446920_n.jpg

 

558856_500002320033244_2009287175_n.jpg

 

If you want to get a bit more out of the top end, the stop screw can be adjusted. To do this loosen lock nut & adjust until it does not touch when the throttle is turned to full throttle then screw it back in until it just buts up on full throttle.

14724_500002020033274_1299970907_n.jpg

 

Now fit the top gasket & install the top cover. Four screws at the top...

155983_500003896699753_1027152372_n.jpg

 

559917_500004180033058_1229992654_n.jpg

Next make sure the O-ring is not perished... Install the air fuel mixture screw making sure the spring is fitted. To adjust this turn all the way in & one & a half out. (usually better at two & a half). To check this start the bike & turn in until you notice a change in revs. Then turn 1.5 to 2.5 turns out.

261595_500004526699690_2017268829_n.jpg

There is a copper washer that may need annealing but not likely...

75269_500004746699668_698364556_n.jpg

Fit screw & tighten.

 

Moving on...

 

Check choke seal to make sure it is not perished...

535636_542275935805882_1290292597_n.jpg

 

Fit choke plunger with the 12mm open-ended spanner.

 

If your needle does not have a conical point that it will need replacing as well. In this case it was not needed.

Also it would be a good idea to drill the float pin holes out a bit so it's not hard to install & doesn't break in the process,you will need a 1.5mm drill bit for this.

 

 >>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>

Installing the needle set

First thing to do is buy the part....

398746_512867495413393_188820924_n.jpg

Then take the top cover off by removing the four screws at the top.

559917_500004180033058_1229992654_n.jpg

Now remove the diaphragm lever arm retaining screw, making sure that the spring does not get lost.

401588_500037620029714_267427843_n.jpg

 

Then remove the slide-arm retaining screw, pictured below.

Now unscrew the two screws from inside the slide (pictured below).

582465_512867628746713_1271976798_n.jpg

Unclasp the plastic needle holder & spring.

165059_512867968746679_1073010644_n.jpg

Now undo the cir-clip & put the new one on.

Standard setting is the middle clip position...

522720_542272782472864_2076458329_n.jpg

If you have not replaced your jets, than may need to set it to two from the bottom.

Now install locking washer making sure it goes in its locking position...

582465_512867628746713_1271976798_n.jpg

Fit the plastic needle holder making sure that the new spring goes on first.

 165059_512867968746679_1073010644_n.jpg

Put the needle in the slide & fit the slide arm with the two screws making sure that the cut out in the slide goes to the back of the carb, as pictured below.

I found that it is easier to put the screws in the slide arm holes, then lower it down without bumping, causing them to fall out of their holes.

398746_512867495413393_188820924_n.jpg

 Now, fit the slide arm retaining screw pictured below.

Fit the diaphragm lever arm making sure that the spring stays in place.

401588_500037620029714_267427843_n.jpg

To do this push it down with a flathead screwdriver while tightening screw...

 

Then put the top cover on.

155983_500003896699753_1027152372_n.jpg

559917_500004180033058_1229992654_n.jpg

 

Job done clap.gif

 

 

Good luck.

 

 



-- Edited by TT-R250M on Tuesday 2nd of April 2013 01:49:39 AM

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Jarrah, Great pics/guide but I know I could use a disassembly pictorial for removing the slide, as I haven't gone there & would like to check/adjust the needle setting.



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TDVT wrote:

Jarrah, Great pics/guide but I know I could use a disassembly pictorial for removing the slide, as I haven't gone there & would like to check/adjust the needle setting.


TDVT-

It is already a large thread so I thought I would just edit my original post. It should have all info needed now.

I'm curious as to what is wrong with your carb? I have seen quite a few posts from you suggesting that you are not happy with the Teikei Y30P? If you don't mind me asking... Is there some problem with your carb?



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I am going from memory as the carb is on the bike, but when I had it open, it wasn't obvious at the time what to remove (or not remove) to get the slide out, so I left it. 

In your pics I see the slide arm screw to loosen, but not the next step of how the arm comes off the shaft. That's all I'm wondering really, the rest looks pretty self-explanatory. 

 

At this point I'm not really happy with the carb; inconsistent idle, blatting @WOT & a few episodes of the sensation of running out of fuel when I wasn't even to reserve yet.

In the carbs defense, it was terribly neglected when I got it (stored for 2+years w/fuel) & not knowing better, I went with the jetting suggestions on TT, so I've never given it a fair shake in stock trim.

To that end, I have an order placed with boats.net that should ship when they get the last parts in (stock jets plus alternate sizes). It would be great if it gets sorted, one less thing to worry about.

But the carb seems to be a constant source of agrivation for many people here on the board.



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TDVT wrote:

I am going from memory as the carb is on the bike, but when I had it open, it wasn't obvious at the time what to remove (or not remove) to get the slide out, so I left it. 

In your pics I see the slide arm screw to loosen, but not the next step of how the arm comes off the shaft. That's all I'm wondering really, the rest looks pretty self-explanatory. 

 

At this point I'm not really happy with the carb; inconsistent idle, blatting @WOT & a few episodes of the sensation of running out of fuel when I wasn't even to reserve yet.

In the carbs defense, it was terribly neglected when I got it (stored for 2+years w/fuel) & not knowing better, I went with the jetting suggestions on TT, so I've never given it a fair shake in stock trim.

To that end, I have an order placed with boats.net that should ship when they get the last parts in (stock jets plus alternate sizes). It would be great if it gets sorted, one less thing to worry about.

But the carb seems to be a constant source of agrivation for many people here on the board.


 You do not have to remove the slide arm, only undo the retaining screw like mentioned. Once it is loose & you loosen the two in the slide it comes out with no drama.

If you want to remove it all you have to do is remove the cir-clip that holds it in after doing the above. I thought you would be able to see this clearly but maybe not.

 

.483433_500000936700049_301187409_n.jpg

You seem to be running rich from how you described your problem, hard to say without more info.

I personally like the Teikei Y30P carb & it is a very responsive carb when tuned right. I have never had a problem with either of mine other than a broken float pin. The carburetor on any bike is always the source of problems & why it seems that there are so many on here having trouble. If put into perspective though, it is not as bad as it looks, it's just that a carb needs maintenance occationally & NO carb likes sitting with fuel in it. Each to their own though.



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Pictures gone?

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The Mancunian wrote:

Pictures gone?


 If you try this CLICKY LINKY and use a RUSSIAN translator you may find what you want.

Martyn

 



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Taa mate

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Sadly a lot of Jarrah's pics have gone leaving just their frame. I am still hoping he will come back to us and fix them hmm



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hoping pictures come back sometime.

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