I was very pleased to learn through this site that it is possible to fit suspension linkage bolts and nipples from the earlier models to a blue tank model in order to be able to use a grease gun to grease the linkages.
Firstly, there are no parts numbers listed for the grease nipples
Secondly, one of the linkage bolts has a part number that is the same as a nut on the later model (Sorry that I can’t be more specific at the moment, access denied to that site at work)
So if can anybody can advise on part numbers that they know are correct for the three linkage bolts and grease nipples I would be very grateful
Part numbers below include the bolts for the white TTRs that have the grease nipples. The "white" collars and sleeves will have grease holes but you could drill the existing "blue" collars to allow the grease to reach the bearings.
Grease nipples are part number 93700-06M03-00
These are the part numbers:
Front bolt to frame
Blue 90179-10665-00
White 90179-10649-00 (part 35 on fiche)
Sleeve
Blue 93109-20076-00
White 90387-166X1-00 (part 30 on fiche)
Link arm lower bolt
Blue 90401-14163-00
White 90401-14153-00 (part 36 on fiche)
Collars
Blue 90387-1606R-00 and 95817-10016-00
White 90387-164N3-00 and 90387-164N2-00 (part 31 on fiche)
The link arm bolt (part 47 on fiche) for the white TTRs is 90179-12643-00 but isn't listed in the UK parts fiche. However, in my experience these bearings last a lot longer as they are up out of the way of the mud and water so a grease nipple may not help a great deal.
Bolt 35 is £35.93 plus VAT retail
Bolt 36 is £34.08 plus VAT retail
It should be possible to get the bolts and nipples in good condition second hand as its the bearings and collars/sleeves that wear.
I think it is useful to have grease nipples to use occasionally to drive out any water or moisture that gets in through the seals.
I will give you a minute or two to process that data before you ask about the swing arm
Thanks for that, it is much appreciated, and hopefully helpful to others too.
The bolts are a lot more than I expected though, so I will leave it for a while and most likely drill and tap the linkage and the current bolts.
While I agree in theory that these bolts are not part of a bearing surface and so should not get worn, on my wife's and my XT600s I have found significant ware on their equivalent bolts, with a definite step worn around the shaft. I don't recall the replacement bolts being that expensive (could be my bad memory though).
Looking at the white models parts diagram I get the impression that I can drill and tap a hole for a grease nipple in the swing arm, also on the do later list.
The part number that I referred to in my earlier post is 90179-10665-00. It is item 35 on the white's part diagram and looks like a bolt. Don't know what the (Greek?) description says. It is item31 on the blue's part diagram and also looks like a bolt, but the description says Nut. Priced at $35.75 it seems unlikely that it is a nut, but a google search on the part number brings up a few results calling it a nut, and doesn't find any calling it a bolt. Puzzling.
Mine is a 1995 model. There must be holes in the bearing rollar shafts too? Brian might be along shortly to clear up the confusion! Sorry to hi jack your thread with my rusty bolts!
To clear up the confusion..
I checked the 1999 model shafts and they don't have holes see (pic below). It must be just the older models that have the holes & grease nipples.
The frame shaft collar already has a hole in it (left side in pic below) That is why i thought it was the shafts that had holes
The other two would need to be drilled in the middle of the shaft (and shaft heads for nipples) as there is is no collar to stop it reaching the bearings.
I can measure how far up the shaft the holes have to be if you like but you can use the collar (pictured left)as a template for the frame mounting shaft (first bolt on left).
They may need slight machining to put a grove in the two short bolts see pic below.
Greywolfs info would be great if it was in english. Any chance you can edit it Brian and make it into one of your useful STICKY's? its a job I would like to try one day.
Having just stripped my linkage and the bearings arent worn just grease gone dry so insides are rusty so they will need replaced
When i replace them i will pack them with waterproof grease but when i took the linkage off my old white bike i noticed the bolts had grease nipples on the end which seems like a good idea (wish i hadnt sold them now !) ,my old quad had nipples on the linkage and it was greased after every ride and water always used to spurt out if id been through rivers
The bolts on my blue bike are hollow so i could put nipples on the ends and i assume drill a hole half way along to let then grease into the bearings
So my question is has anyone done this before and does anyone have a pic of the linkage bolts off a white bike so i know where to drill the holes ?
As far as I know, nobody has fitted the grease nipples to the newer models.
Taken from my rebuild thread-
Thread measured at 6mm so I'd say the grease nipples are M6. The bent one (pictured below) would be M6 (at elbow bend) & M6 in bolt head. This is so you can grease it in the tight spot that it sits.
All threads are tapped into the shafts that go through the bearings, not in the fastening bolts.
The collar that bolts to the frame already has a hole in it (right side in pic below). The other two would need to be drilled in the middle of the shaft (and shaft heads to fit nipples) as there is is no collar to stop it reaching the bearings.
I can measure how far up the shaft the holes have to be if you like but you can use the collar (pictured right) as a template for the frame mounting shaft (first bolt on left).
They would require slight machining to put a grove in the two short bolts see pic below.
Thanks for the reply looks fairly easy il give it a go before i put them back in ,the holes look like there in the middle but it shouldnt have to be exact and it would be easier to tap one into the alloy linkage
-- Edited by chrisstdt on Friday 20th of December 2013 08:58:35 PM
Thanks for the reply looks fairly easy il give it a go before i put them back in ,the holes look like there in the middle but it shouldnt have to be exact and it would be easier to tap one into the alloy linkage
No problems Chris
Yes, the holes are in the middle of the shaft (as mentioned in the picture above).
Just remember to machine the shafts so you have the groove needed to disperse the grease.
Jarrah
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
My old Serow had about five grease nipples fitted as standard which made life easy.
Just a point the lingage nipples were fitted below rather than on top as shown on Les photo. If I were fitting grease nipples I would go with them underneath that way the grease is being appliied/forced into the lower surfaces where most of the wear would likely be.
One day I really must fit many nipples to my TTR, it was always quite satisfying greasing the Serow and watching all the new grease ozzing out of various oriffices!
The thing is, if the seals are working properly, by pressurising the bearings with grease won't that potentially blow the seals?
Yes Brian, but if you regrease them properly there should not be any pressure to blow the seals. If grease starts oozing out, you have obviously used too much.
Also, it would not matter whether the nipple is fitted to the top or bottom as grease has a way of filling up the space and dispersing any air pockets. Once the swingarm is full with grease, there will be no air left, therefore the grease will be dispersed evenly to all areas.
colin13846 wrote:
If I were fitting grease nipples I would go with them underneath that way the grease is being applied/forced into the lower surfaces where most of the wear would likely be.
I won't try to change your thinking but IMO- ''if anything'', the top of the swingarm would need more grease as heat and gravity has only one way with old grease.
Jarrah
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
i have checked mine since doing the grease nipple on the swing arm as at times spends a lot of time under water and it's all nice and greasy no water or wear .
Just a little top up with the grease gun from time to time
I think the key is not to put too much force on the gun when putting the grease in ,with my old quad you would always push some water out of the seals so that has to be good
The seals are designed to keep water out and grease in hence my concern at possibly blowing the seals with too much pressure on the grease gun.
Seems like everyone understands the issue which is great. I used to fit grease nipples to the head stocks of my dirt bikes and, after power washing, a few pumps on the grease gun would usually push out a bit of water which was what was needed
You almost need an extra "blow off" grease nipple that works in the opposite way to normal and releases grease when the pressure builds up sufficiently. Or maybe there already is such a thing?
what i do about every 6months to freshen up the grease is loosen the swingarm bolt and then pump in grease it goes in and comes out round the ends of bolt
what i do about every 6 months to freshen up the grease is loosen the swingarm bolt and then pump in grease it goes in and comes out round the ends of bolt
Drilled the bolts yesterday at work glad i had a good supply of drill bits as there very hard ! put a nipple in the alloy dog leg so didnt have to drill the long bolt
-- Edited by chrisstdt on Wednesday 25th of December 2013 10:10:10 AM
Fitted my newly modified bolts and linkage bearings today and as brian said its very easy to push out the seals espcialy on the dog bone as theres nothing to stop the seals coming out so very light pressure on the gun is the way forward
You must be the first person to have gone through that much trouble, I personally fitted the older bolts/shafts. It will be well worth it in the end though.
Jarrah
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +