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The TTR250 FAQ web pages -> TTR250 -> Repairs and maintenance -> List of problematic nuts and bolts
Post Info TOPIC: List of problematic nuts and bolts
barra8


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List of problematic nuts and bolts
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Very good brindabella 

I like this bit...

                                 For lazy types - meaning me and everyone except you wink.gif of course,

This bit needs to be changed i think though as i have two stuffed ones & waiting on one as we speak...

lower shock mount - unusual

Other than that your spot on.

..........................................................

Also..

 The filler plug strips easy

Seat bolts can become ceased with all the mud/water

Front fender bolts can become ceased (with all the mud/water)

Standard Oem bolts not strong enough & breaking off inside thread. (use better grade)

Header pipe heat gaurd bolts ceased (from heat)

Rear brake lever bolt ceases (dirt/water/has to be tight)

Lower number plate holder bolt cease (dirt/water)

Back axle nut stripped - Buy one of Brians wink

Lower ''rear'' shock mount bolt (called ''upper'' in the online store) works its way loose & damages the ''alloy'' thread. This cannot be overtightened either or it strips (especially with the help of it rattling loose & damaging the thread)

 

 

Maybe there is more but for now that'll do for my two cents

.....................

This is an example of what can happen if you are not aware of all of this....

 

 

 

 

 

Parts needed..                                                                                                                                                                                                                        Discounted price

Double Check Your Cart

Subtotal = $55.74
Part NamePriceQuantityTotal
Yamaha 4GY-22219-00-00 BRACKET, UPPER
Part# 4GY-22219-00-00
Delete
$50.87
You Save:
$34.03 (40%)		Update$50.87
Yamaha 90105-10614-00 BOLT,WASHER BASED
Part# 90105-10614-00
Delete
$2.75
You Save:
$1.23 (31%)		Update$2.75
Yamaha 90201-112U6-00 WASHER, PLATE
Part# 90201-112U6-00
Delete

.................

Country: Australia

State / Province: Qld


Shipping Methods

MethodPrice
USPS Priority International Mail$18.99 Preferred
USPS Express International Mail$23.74

Ouch $$$$$$$$$$$$noashamedcryhmmcry$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

 

Jarrah.



-- Edited by barra8 on Friday 21st of December 2012 04:12:51 AM

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brindabella


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Hi everybody, the TTR250 is a reliable bike, but like every bike model in manufacturing history, there are areas that need watching - namely nuts and bolts that are prone to loosening (or to freezing in place) or to being stripped or mangled - eg often on parts subject to heat or vibration stress or joining dissimilar metals.

Now while we should all be using torque wrenches, regularly renewing critical nuts and washers, using appropriate grades of loctite or other thread preparation, cleaning properly before disassembly, using top quality mechanic's tools, checking everything after every ride etc, nobody actually does all that!

For lazy types  - meaning me and everyone except you   of course, it would be nice to know what things happen all too frequently with fasteners. If you just rely on your own experience you "lock the stable door after the horse has bolted" - ie you only check regularly things that have been an issue on your own bike.

But here we are a community of owners and together, we could learn from each others experience and mistakes, so I am proposing that people reply to this thread with simple posts (facts rather than opinions) saying what fastener failures they have had - even if (or maybe especially if) someone else has already posted about the exact same issue.

To get the ball rolling, here is a short list of fastener issues I have found on a couple of searches in the forum pages..

loose engine mounting bolts
loose sump guard mountings
lower shock mount - unusual
oil filter cover
RHS footrest bolt
rear muffler bolt
stripped sump plug - common
stripped front axle clamp stud
front brake caliper allen head bolts frozen tight
shock body threads stripped
header to muffler clamp bolt missing
front sprocket nut hard to remove

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 



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TTRfan


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Just to reassure any potential TTR owners looking in, the TTR250 is no worse in this respect than other dirtbikes. In fact the Suzuki RM250, Kawasaki KDX200 and KTM 200EXC I owned were far worse no

Shock absorber reservoir adjuster (all but Raid models) - if not used occasionally, these can seize and strip out the centre of the knob

Swing arm bolt - not had any problems myself but, if you do low mileage then it may be worth annually loosening and turning the bolt a quarter turn to make sure it doesn't seize. My son's KLX250's s/a bolt seized in and was a 'mare to removecry

Other than that you and Jarrah have got the bases covered wink

Brian



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barra8


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Just to confirm what Brian said.. They are no different to any other bike. If anything they are more reliable. I love my TTR250 LC & would'nt want anything else (for what i do).I uploaded that so you can see what needs ''special'' attention. If you keep an eye on these things all should be ''pie'' & ''pasties'' biggrin

.......................

Jarrah.



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YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!

TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!

Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!

My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)

BM Steve


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What about that stupid bolt that holds the LHS cover on, the weird phillips head thing, I replaced mine with a S/S allen head bolt,washer and I just happened to have a small piece of aluminium tube to act as a sleeve so it's exactly the same shape as the original, works a treat   biggrin

S.

 

 



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2004 TTR250 - Highway Dirtbike Hand Guards, 38mm Bar Risers, D606 Front & Rear, Opened up Airbox with Twin Air Filter, Re-jetted Carby, B+B Bash Plate & Frame Guards, DIY 3mm Alloy Tail Tidy, 14/47 Gearing.

 
WheelMan


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What about the allen headed bolts that hold the disks in placehmm

I'm about to soak them all in diesel/wd40 before having another go at themdisbelief



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tripodtiger


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I just read a touring thread on here and, at the end, the author had a good swipe at others for what he considered bad advice, whinging or being keyboard jockeys.

He had a crack at various people for various things before he admitted that he'd not checked the aftermarket tank mounting bolts at all, which came loose and fell out. Surprise, surprise Gomer.

The point I am making here is to second the comments above regarding proper tools, torque settings and locktite but to add

REPLACE STANDARD NUTS WITH NYLOCK, Fujilock or similar.


On mine, I've changed as many zinc plated or painted fasteners with stainless steel as possible.

And for the Yanks that repeatedly use shifters, throw it to the **** house and use the correct spanner!


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'73 RD250, '80 XS1100, '81 RD373LC, '96 Tiger 900/sidecar, '02 TTR250, and another XS11 - this time a chain drive Period 5 race bike that may be ready to race eventually.
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