ok i want to know, you see the mark for TDC(TOP DEAD CENTRE) does it have to be 100% exactly on the mark on the bike as seen in picture 1, or can be be a little off as in picture 2?
cause i could never get the camchain on without moving the mark off the exact position like 2mm off, does this matter?
any help will be appreciated.
p.s the bike does start and run but i just want to be sure
thanks
-- Edited by yamahaTT250R on Saturday 25th of August 2012 09:13:31 AM
By the looks of it you might have a streched cam chain or worn cam chain components as it does'nt look like it's that much of a difference to warrant a tooth out of position
Also could be the rotor itself but not likely
It would be good to see how close it is on the cam chain sprocket marks though.
Jarrah.
-- Edited by barra8 on Saturday 25th of August 2012 04:09:11 AM
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That will help and a few pictures of camshaft sprocket wear close up if possible
Diagnostic test and advice
When it runs you should not hear any noise in the top end apart from the usuall whirr the only noise should be the exhuast.
If you notice a slight rattling noise or excessive noise put the handle of a long screwdriver to your ear and the other end of the screwdriver to where you think the noise is coming from.
If there is any noise coming from the head it means a replacement cam chain will be needed
If the cam chain has'nt been replaced in awhile i suggest you replace it and any other cam chain components that have excessive wear
Not properly maintaining the cam chain and components will lead to serious trouble eg. bent valves,damaged piston and worse
The cam chain,cam chain components and everything needed can be bought for around AU $200.00 - AU $300.00 (depending of what needs to be replaced) at this site www.powersportsplus.com
Jarrah.
-- Edited by barra8 on Saturday 25th of August 2012 05:33:02 AM
__________________
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TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!
Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!
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i have looked at the camshaft sprockets, chain before i replaced the cover and they seem to be in a good condition...
as for any noises i am not sure if its normal but i am hearing a noise coming from the head but i was told that it was normal, ill try and post a video of it somewhere.
As for repacing the cam chain do i have to strip the motor to reach the crankcase cause that will be something i do not want to do.
-- Edited by yamahaTT250R on Saturday 25th of August 2012 05:17:06 AM
As for repacing the cam chain do i have to strip the motor to reach the crankcase cause that will be something i do not want to do.
Yes you will have to take the clutch casing off and remove the drive gear sprocket to fit the new cam chain (see above)''
Note: In the above picture the cam chain is wrapped around the crankshaft and may be caught. Try not to do this.
Have heard of cam chain links but not for TTR250's
Tips on the job
Before removing the head, crack (loosen the nut) on the drive gear shown in picture above so it makes the job easier.
The back wheel if firmly on the ground (get someone to sit on it if you have trouble) will stop the motor from turning so there will be no need for ''special tools'' except a torque wrench
When removing the cylinder head make sure you undo the retainer bolts (these are'nt the head bolts) first as you will break the cam chain guide otherwize
Cut off an allen key and fit it to an electric drill (in reverse) or fit the cut off allen key to a socket and breaker bar or ratchet to remove any old/rusty/tight bolts so as not to strip the allen key bolt head
Make sure the cam chain does not wrap around the crankshaft as seen in the picture above or it may damage the crankshaft
Don't worry it's easy enough and if you need a manual let me know and i will send you a pdf. full workshop manual to your email address
Jarrah.
-- Edited by barra8 on Saturday 25th of August 2012 07:04:04 AM
__________________
YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!
TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!
Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!
My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)
Watched the vid and that is almost certainately cam chain rattle
Fitting a new cam chain asap will be crutial to ensure that no further damage is done to the engine.
Sounds like it may have even been loose enough to be wearing inside the barrel in the cam chain chamber but should'nt matter if it's not too badly worn.
I'd replace all components with excessive wear aswell as the cam chain before riding anymore but up to you
Jarrah.
-- Edited by barra8 on Saturday 25th of August 2012 06:38:09 AM
__________________
YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!
TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!
Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!
My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)
it seems to be ok to me anyway here are some pictures and ive checked for any damage to the barrel and have found nil :) very happy
tell me what you think of the pictures good or not?
could worn camshafts make that noise by any chance?
Also on my TTR it does not have this so called stopper guide.... i was wondering if this part is only on USA model TTRS? see pic 4 and 5 outlined in red.
Here is a pic of what will happen if the camshaft chain is not maintained properly. This is'nt too bad and could be used again. (see below)
They usually drop a valve before too much damage has occured so not a real concern...
Note: You will not be able to see this wear until the head or atleast camshafts are removed.
Second question
The pictures are okay and confirm that you have a worn cam chain 100%
Third question
Check for wear on your camshafts but i highly doubt the noise would be caused from camshaft wear
Fourth question
Have a look on your head cover and if there is a bolt hole in your head cover and if there is the part you point out with the red arrow should be installed.
The part you show with the red arrow is not something the chain sits against. It is just in case the cam chain hits the top of the head cover (like a stopper)
Jarrah.
__________________
YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!
TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!
Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!
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You would be better off taking the head off it. An easy job and gaskets cost just about nothing.
Also you can check the rings and whatnot while you have the head and barrel off.
I'm pretty sure you would be able run wire down the head then attach it to the timing chain and retreive the chain.
I'm not 100% on this because i have always done the job properly from the start to finish.
Checking the wear on the cam chain guides would become more of a job than it saves.
Also checking if valves are seated properly would not be possible without removing the head.
You could check the valves by using a compression gauge but it won't do as good of a job as checking with the solvent in ports to see if they leak method.
It would be up to you which way you go about it so take your choice wizely.
I know what i would be doing though and thats removing the head.
Jarrah.
-- Edited by barra8 on Sunday 26th of August 2012 08:25:32 AM
__________________
YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!
TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!
Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!
My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)
alright i will give the details once they arrive, also i wanted to ask do i have to remove the entire clutch basket inorder to access the camchain?
Yes.
Not to be a pr#ck Brian but the only reason why you would have to remove the ''entire clutch basket'' is if you had to replace the cam chain guide which is behind the 'clutch basket''
You can just remove the nut in the pic below as mentioned and oil pump.
barra8 wrote
Tips on the job
Before removing the head, crack (loosen the nut) on the drive gear shown in picture above so it makes the job easier.
The back wheel if firmly on the ground (get someone to sit on it if you have trouble) will stop the motor from turning so there will be no need for ''special tools'' except a torque wrench
When removing the cylinder head make sure you undo the retainer bolts (these are'nt the head bolts) first as you will break the cam chain guide otherwize
Cut off an allen key and fit it to an electric drill (in reverse) or fit the cut off allen key to a socket and breaker bar or ratchet to remove any old/rusty/tight bolts so as not to strip the allen key bolt head
Make sure the cam chain does not wrap around the crankshaft as seen in the picture above or it may damage the crankshaft
Good opportunity to clean the oil pump also.
Jarrah.
-- Edited by barra8 on Wednesday 29th of August 2012 03:13:52 PM
-- Edited by barra8 on Wednesday 29th of August 2012 03:17:36 PM
__________________
YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!
TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!
Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!
My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)
alright i will give the details once they arrive, also i wanted to ask do i have to remove the entire clutch basket inorder to access the camchain?
Yes.
Not to be a pr#ck Brian but the only reason why you would have to remove the ''entire clutch basket'' is if you had to replace the cam chain guide which is behind the 'clutch basket''
You can just remove the nut in the pic below as mentioned and oil pump.
barra8 wrote
Brian is right about the chain guard not letting you take the cam chain although.......
I have decided that it is possible but not practical. The bolt under the basket won't remove but it does loosen enough to slip the chain past.
I'd be removing the basket as it's so much of a hassle if you have the kickstarter fitted
I have replaced many cam chains before without removing the clutch basket but in this case ''it is possible but not practical''
Jarrah.
Maybe it would just be easier to remove the basket with something like this
-- Edited by barra8 on Wednesday 26th of September 2012 02:14:08 AM
__________________
YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!
TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!
Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!
My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)
I found this out by actually taking the oil pump,drive gear and undoing the back bolt. Once you loosen the back bolt the cam chain guide pivots down which allows plenty of room to install the chain. It really was'nt that hard apart from finding the right length 10mm spanner to ''crack'' loosen the back cam chain bolt.
The front cam chain bolt can be done with a torque wrench
The back cam chain would have to suffice with a normal tightening procedure. This would not matter aslong as you tighten it back up enough as its not a moving component.
The reason i only just found this out was because earlier i had only measured the distance in ralation to the cam chain guide/clutch basket/crankshaft/
but not actually tried doing it.
I knew there was some ''trick'' to it but couldn't remember the ''trick'' (If that makes sense) I thought the trick was taking the oil pump off and drive gear nut but obviously ''aint''
I have done this to other bikes but never had to replace a timing chain on a ttr250 but that day will be very soon when my 05 model head arrives in the post. But that's another story or ''novel'' i should say
This method does work though.
All this ''said'' though i would just make up a tool like i did it was basic and makes alot of jobs easier for me. Also cost me nothing so no complaints there.
Jarrah.
-- Edited by barra8 on Thursday 30th of August 2012 06:36:49 AM
__________________
YAMAHA ROCKS!!!!!!
TTR250ACTIVE''BORED'' ADDICT!
Favourite quote: To be old & wise first you must be young & dumb!
My own: Your never too young to learn an old trick! :)
hello again while waiting for the parts to arrive i decided to start the bike today just a little cause i havent started in in over 4 days and i kept it on, now what i want to say is the noise has dissapeared....whats going on guys anybody know? im still going to change the camchain and other worn parts but can anyone give me ideas?
no i meant 20000kms as in my engine mileage has been 20000kms and the cam chain hasnt been changed since then i was trying to help TTpowers question which was: G'day lads,
How many miles/kms should we be getting out of a cam chain?
I'm in the middle of doing mine as well its great timing.