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Post Info TOPIC: Wheel Bearing Removal


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Wheel Bearing Removal
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Before I attack my rear wheel with my biggest hammer & chisel (don't panic Brian) is there a technique that's easier or can anyone recommend a bearing pulling kit that I can buy.

Thanks in advance

Carlo



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Best advice I can give you, Carlo, is to be patient.  wink

Take a look at the advice Brian gives, here:-

http://www.ttr250.com/Wheel_bearing_replacement/TTR_wheel_bearing.htm

A look at how the bearings, distance pieces and collars fit together will give an idea of the task involved.

Martyn

 



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East Budleigh. Devon



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RE: Rear wheel bearing removal
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all done, went to see the nice men at Alf Hagons, 



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Glad you got it sorted Carlo wink

For anyone else interested in a bearing extractor, I bought one of these kits from eBay - http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Bearing-remover-extractor-puller-exelnt-wheel-brg-/200659339643?pt=UK_Motorcycle_Parts&hash=item2eb83a897b#ht_1074wt_1185

It works very well but the extractors in the kit only fit the front wheel bearings and the rear spacers but not the rear wheel bearings cry

I got a mate with a lathe to turn me up the right sized extractor in stainless steel for the rear bearings and it works a treat. It takes quite a battering as some of the bikes I get in have been standing for a long time and the alloy in the hub corrodes which, along with the rust can make 'em a bit tough to get out on occasions confuse

Brian



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Just thought I'd add to this thread as it may be of interest to anyone removing their bearings but don't have a bearing puller.

I'm in the process of making a set of moto wheels so that I can use my bike a bit more often and bought a set of wheels off another forum member. The rims were a bit tired, so decided to replace them with nice new black ones and thought it best to do the bearings as well.

Saw this thread and Brians post, but I've spent enough, would not use them often and thought there must be another way. Whilst in B&Q noticed the expanding anchor bolts and thought they would do the trick.

Tried it tonight on the front hub by tightening the expaning bolt in the bearing, heating the hub with my paint stripper neat gun, passed a drift through the hub from the other side, gave it a good tap with a hammer and they popped straight out.

Going to get one to suit the rear hub now, cost just a few quid :)

Need to order some new bearings now.



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Sounds good! Was it this sort of thing that you used?  http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/hardware/fixings/anchor_bolts/B-and-Q-Anchor-Bolts-M10x40mm-M10x105L-9372109 



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Similar but the projecting type, so that I could grip the thread with mole grips and get really tight in the bearing.

http://www.diy.com/nav/fix/hardware/fixings/anchor_bolts/B-and-Q-Projecting-Anchor-9372114

When I get one to suit the rear wheel, I'll take photos of each stage and post them.



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Thanks for the tip Rick, never would have thought of that one, for our Aussie riders these bolts are called Dyna Bolts, available from any resonable hardware store

Thanks again

Steve



-- Edited by BM Steve on Friday 11th of May 2012 01:35:54 PM

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2004 TTR250 - Highway Dirtbike Hand Guards, 38mm Bar Risers, D606 Front & Rear, Opened up Airbox with Twin Air Filter, Re-jetted Carby, B+B Bash Plate & Frame Guards, DIY 3mm Alloy Tail Tidy, 14/47 Gearing.

 



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Wheel Bearing Removal
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As promised in another thread regarding the removal of wheel bearings, I have now sucessfully removed the rear collars and bearings using an expanding through bolt rather than an expensive bearing puller.

These are the bolts I purchased; the smaller M8 for the front wheel and the larger M12 for the rear wheel.

IMG_1167.JPG

First the bolt was inserted into the collar.

IMG_1168.JPG

Then tightened up and expanded into the collar, using the mole grips to hold the bolt.

IMG_1169.JPG

A drift was inserted into the other side of the hub to tap the bolt and collar out.

IMG_1170.JPG

Next the bolt was inserted into the bearing and the process repeated.

IMG_1173.JPG

The bolt was tighteded in the bearing.

IMG_1174.JPG

Some heat was applied to the hub.

IMG_1175.JPG

The drift was again inserted into the hub from the opposite side to tap the bearing out.

IMG_1176.JPG

The bearing came out quite easily without damaging the sides of the hub.

IMG_1180.JPG

The other bearings took a few attempts as they were quite rusty and seized in. The last bearing had to be tapped out with the drift but all came out without too much trouble and all for just a few quid spent on a couple of bolts.



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Thanks, handy tutorial, now a tutorial on how to get new ones back in easily biggrin

Cheers



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2004 TTR250 - Highway Dirtbike Hand Guards, 38mm Bar Risers, D606 Front & Rear, Opened up Airbox with Twin Air Filter, Re-jetted Carby, B+B Bash Plate & Frame Guards, DIY 3mm Alloy Tail Tidy, 14/47 Gearing.

 



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Excellent step-by-step pictorial guide!

I will make it a sticky biggrin

Many thanks 

Brian



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Thanks for the feedback. I've just ordered a set of bearings from Brian so I'll document fitting them also, albeit it will be my first attempt at a TTR wheel. I'll also need to clean up the hub, collars and spacers as they came out pretty rusty.

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Thanks for the tutorial. I just joined the forum to add a tip that might help someone else in my position.

I tried the anchor bolt method to remove my front wheel bearings with no luck (i guess they were too seized). Anyway, after much head scratching and swearing I eventually realised that the bearing on the disc brake side had a slightly larger opening than the bearing on the other side. So, if you get a bolt with a head that will just pass through the disc side bearing, it will rest against the central spacer and then you can get a screwdriver and hammer to drive the opposite bearing out with relative ease. Once one bearing is out, the other is a doddle.

I'm not sure if the same would work on the rear wheel? But I hope this helps someone else with front wheel bearing woes too!

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The FAQ (can be found here) and the pictorial guide to replacing the rear wheel bearings (can be found here) has been updated with information from Mike Wain - thanks Mike!

I am always happy to update and improve any of my guides from information supplied by owners actually doing the jobs wink

Brian



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