Hi All, just about to change my air filter and looking at what I can oil it up with, on the 'sticky' bit of this forum the basic guide says engine oil! now I realise we are talking fresh, but do I really just sqidge it in until it is nice and covered (but not dripping) after 21 years of bikes (and about 15 of those) this is my first oiling of an air filter (they haven't had this type- otherwise I'm sure I'd have done it before)
Last question: cleaning the old one- I've read about washing them through with petrol, and also warm soapy water- do I do the former then latter, dry then oil and store in a bag?
I'm slowly aiming to skill myself up, so excuse the newbie Q's
__________________
Beaten paths are for Beaten Men:
Currently to be found bimbling around Devon, where muddy badgers abound.
While some use engine oil, a better solution is to use proper foam air filter oil. Engine oil dries out pretty quickly and the foam loses it's particulate trapping effect. The correct oil stays gooey for a very long time.
I just wash in petrol twice - wash and rinse. Allow to dry for 15min (less if in the sun) then apply foam air filter oil.
Save the rinse petrol for the next wash. Wear rubber gloves.
woo , this is news..... so where do you get this oil ?? I took my AF out the other day and it looked a little dirty, so I washed it and replaced it. doh........... another job on the list lol
Cheers for the info, I looked at the price of the 'proper' oil this morning, decided I'd wait to see if the engine oil would do, back to the shop next week then. Good info about the petrol, the shop was selling the solvent/ cleaner- but were having a laugh with the price! Save if you can, spend if you have to (Must be my Scottish ancestry coming out)
__________________
Beaten paths are for Beaten Men:
Currently to be found bimbling around Devon, where muddy badgers abound.
Now shall I get my coat now, but chopping a tree down this afternoon made me think about maybe chain saw chain oil? or even the cans of that sticky chain lube we used to years in the past (and haven't used for years, but lurks in the deepest recesses of the man cave)
or
stop being tight and spend a tenner on a can that will prob last a year!
__________________
Beaten paths are for Beaten Men:
Currently to be found bimbling around Devon, where muddy badgers abound.
Hi I am new to the forum but have been riding and wrenching on my bikes for along time. Engine oil imo can be used in a pinch if filter oil isn't available. I would however service and clean the filter more often as engine oil will evaporate and drain out of the filter alot sooner like stated above. Filter oil has a solvent carrier that helps the oil absorb into the filter more completely. It is also stickier so it will stay in the filter longer. I have however found that different brands seem to perform better than others. I like Maxima FFT foam filter treatment as it is dust proof and water proof but I am sure most of the other brands are similar in performance. I have also used 90 wt gear oil and it seems to work ok. Good stuff on this forum... Sam
At the top right hand corner of the crankcase, under the exhaust pipe, is a circular cover held with three allen screws. it's behind that cover - to the right of the cover with YAMAHA on it.
Thanks will have to change the filter and oil when ive got it, doing that can thing is it a case of cutting top and bottom off then up the side and loosen the jubilee clips and sliding it on
In my case the bike was a tad mucky after my last ride so I took the clips off completely, which loosened the reservoir and enabled me to shovel the mud out from behind it.
I took the liberty of putting another Brown Ale can round the reservior too.
i noticed that there are stainless steel filters which they claim that never needs to be replaced also it preforms better. i was wonders do they really work and also has anyone tried them? are they really good
Paraffin would do, but if you're desperate you could safely dunk it in petrol - taking due precautions obviously, ie outdoors, no naked flame, rubber gloves, etc.
A word of warning on any re-usable filter. Be ever so careful in cleaning and drying the filter. It is very easy to introduce a tear or hole in the guaze that you may not notice and therefore cancel out all the filtering qualities. Blowing the filter dry on a high pressure air line can damage the filter if you get too close.
It is for this reason that I only ever re-use an ordinary mesh filter once before discarding it. The s/s filters may be more resilient.
Thanks, I'll check them out! Do you know if the stock steel filter is ok to use in the long run? Not use to this type so not sure if I should go for a paper one.
Robert, WELCOME TO THE FUN!!! I bought a aftermarket metal/steel filter for mine (not sure what the brand was) and had trouble fitting it. It was just a bit too long and the filter plate would not bolt back down all the way. I use the OE filter and it works great. Bike Bandit has them for 12.95. greg
Just been changing the oil - first time 'cos I've not long had the bike - and wanted to change the oil filter at the same time. The oil bit went OK but when it came to changing the filter the new one (1UY-13440-02 as recommended) wouldn't fit. In fact the new and old filters look very different - the old one has two extra holes, top and bottom, that match prongs sitting out from the bottom of the filter holder and the inside of the filter cover.
Anyone got any idea where I can get the right filter?
Problem solved - operator error!!! I went back and checked the part number with the original parts catalogue and I was using the correct filter so the problem was, obviously, me. Back to the bike, remove the filter again and check a little more carefully this time - the "prongs" I had been talking about were on the rubber end-pieces of the filter that had become stuck to the housing and end-plate. Once "unstuck" everything went smoothly and new filter is now happily installed.
Sorry for wasting everyone's time. Can't promise it won't happen again - not done much bike fettling.
Turps should be pretty safe but I prefer to use diesel or brake cleaner.
If you have the standard Yamaha paper filter, it needs to be chucked out. Only the wire mesh filters (re-useable type) can be cleaned.
For others- Although I have no doubt that Andrew's bike is a 2012 model, it was actually made in 2011 as this is the last year TTR250's were made. The rest will be classed as 2012 or 2013 for registration purposes but made in 2011.
Jarrah
__________________
2000 TT-R250M-
Spoiler
Ported & polished, 73mm bore, Wizeco piston, US header pipe, FMF Q4, #150 main jet, #52.5 pilot jet, throttle stop screw adjusted, larger snorkel, GYT-R air filter, NGK Iridium spark plug, 14/51 gearing, NOS +
Turps should be pretty safe but I prefer to use diesel or brake cleaner.
Jarrah
This is a bit off subject but thought I would toss it in
Turps is good, so is Diesel, I use Kerosine or turps for just about all the cleaning, chains, engine etc...
I also use Biodiesel, I make some from time to time, it's really good for cleaning chains, won't get into the rollers and wash out the lubricant
One thing you should do is NEVER THROW OUT THE SOLVENT, put it in an airtight container after you have used it and just let it settle for a few weeks
It's as good as new after a few weeks, I turn 4 liters of turps into 40 liters that way, put a flay tray under the engine and wash around the oily bits, I use a 44gallon drum lid
then drain it into an old paint tin or something and put the lid on
Have a good Weekend
Steve
__________________
2004 TTR250 - Highway Dirtbike Hand Guards, 38mm Bar Risers, D606 Front & Rear, Opened up Airbox with Twin Air Filter, Re-jetted Carby, B+B Bash Plate & Frame Guards, DIY 3mm Alloy Tail Tidy, 14/47 Gearing.