A forum for owners of Yamaha TTR250 trail and enduro bikes!

NO sorry misunderstood I managed to get it into neutral eventually but while it was in gear she wouldnt start,its dificult to rock a bike backwards and forewards in Mud lol.I'm going to have to try it in the garage and check if it will start in gear with the clutch pulled in it definately would not start and I was stuck in 3rd it wasnt untill I managed to get it into neutral that the bike started ok, there was nothing no starter like it was completely dead except the headlight was on so I new the ignition was on bit of a weird one.

I've never had cause to try any alterations to the clutch switch wiring, but my take on it is that the two switch wires merely need joining together to complete the circuit.

Try it and see - if it doesn't work then separate the wires and re-try.

One way or the other must work.

Don't forget to report your findings so all can benefit.

Martyn

I checked again the bike will not start in gear even when the clutch is engaged so switch must be faulty.I will rearange things this weekend.
Thanks again

Dave.

I have a similar problem associated with the above so have not begun another thread.....I had problems starting my 1998 OE today. It had been put away for a week pending delivery of parts from the UK. I could not get it to start in neutral despite many attempts and checking the obvious (!)......took out and tested spark plug......no spark on turning over.....checked wires and fuses etc....spark pug cap and put new plug in......nothing......getting fuel etc ok. Then I noticed that the always rather intermittent green neutral light wasn't glowing so fiddled with the gear lever a little and it came on.....the bike started first turn!........great!......thought I'd take the bike for a spin to check on the operation of the new speedo sender unit.......engaged first gear and engine cut out.....tried a couple more times and same thing.......was thinking about where the activation switch for this neutral light might be and was unsure but for starters examined the clutch lever switch (esp. as I had changed the lever for a new one from UK).....it was a little corroded but intact.....with the engine running it was still cutting out on engaging first gear so tried depressing & releasing the switch manually whilst selecting first......same thing ....and strangely, with a lit neutral switch, pulling in and letting out the clutch lever would turn off and on the neutral light..........will the above dodge of joining the two wires on the handlebar switch solve this problem or do I need to look elsewhere?......I would appreciate some advice!........many thanks!

Thanks for the swift reply and useful information Brian.

As I have had the tank off to fit a new petrol tap,new horn and change the spark plug etc it's very possible I have disturbed something.....

I did read the previous postings about looping but wasn't certain it would cure this issue. I'll carry out the bypass you suggest and try a different wire too.

I'll let you know what happens!

Pete

-- Edited by Maniot on Sunday 12th of January 2014 06:05:06 PM

Thanks for the tip ttb....

I don't run the side stand switch it was removed before I rode the bike the first time  , but the clutch switch is handy on hill climbs or is I stall on steep down hills  ext. when  you can restart in gear with the clutch in and I'm under way again.

have had to pull the switch apart a couple of times and clean it if it does fail it wont stop the bike from starting in neutral . 

-- Edited by ttboof on Monday 13th of January 2014 02:10:46 AM

I wonder how on earth I've ever survived intact without this indispensable device over a 40 year motorcycling career incorporating 7 yrs as an senior instructor from BSA 500 Gold Star to chipped/race-canned Buell XB12R ! ;)

Maniot wrote:

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I wonder how on earth I've ever survived intact without this indispensable device over a 40 year motorcycling career incorporating 7 yrs as an senior instructor from BSA 500 Gold Star to chipped/race-canned Buell XB12R ! ;)

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 Obviously you have never ridden trails with MASSIVE hills where stalling can happen to the best of us. Without the clutch switch I would have to find Neutral (nearly impossible to do quick enough) to restart the bike. This would leave me without compression braking as my bike does not roll-start too well (too much compression).

Jarrah

Maniot wrote:

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Electric starting motorcycles may have a Neutral light of course (as non-elec starting motorcycles can have) which is sensible and not silly but not necessarily an additional system that defeats starting whilst in gear......thats often been left to the capabilities of a motorcyclist being able to understand the workings of his or her machine.....

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 Well I am yet to find a modern bike with an electric start that does not have a neutral switch (or clutch) that does not effect the starter motor. This would be unsafe (and detrimental to starter gears) IMO as it could be started in gear. I highly doubt motorcycle companies are willing to risk a law suit or damage whilst still in the warranty period.

As I said, once I see a modern electric start bike that has a neutral switch that does not effect the starter motor, I will stand corrected.

Jarrah

 

Maniot wrote:

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TT-R250M wrote:

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Maniot wrote:

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I wonder how on earth I've ever survived intact without this indispensable device over a 40 year motorcycling career incorporating 7 yrs as an senior instructor from BSA 500 Gold Star to chipped/race-canned Buell XB12R ! ;)

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 Obviously you have never ridden trails with MASSIVE hills where stalling can happen to the best of us. Without the clutch switch I would have to find Neutral (nearly impossible to do quick enough) to restart the bike. This would leave me without compression braking as my bike does not roll-start too well (too much compression).

Jarrah

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 Of course, knowing my background so intimately you know I have never ridden up big hills and never stalled.......goodness.......without a 'fitted' clutch switch you could start with the clutch disengaged in any gear and re-start surely? As regards compression braking how does one turn an engine over whilst its under rearwards load and holding the bike?  Isn't this what brakes are for and their speedy deft application whilst re-starting with clutch disengaged? Or am I missing something and making assumptions too? Please enlighten me!

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 First of all, the TTR250 is fitted with a two-way start circuit cut-off. This consists of the neutral switch and the clutch switch. The bike WILL NOT start unless one of these conditions is met (i.e. the clutch is pulled in or the motor is in neutral). So, by not having the clutch switch connected you now can only start the bike in neutral! If you bypass the clutch switch (i.e. bridge the wires together) you now have the problem of it being able to start in gear as this condition is met. I say problem because it is unsafe and could be detrimental to the starter components if it is started in gear.

As for the compression braking question- Not sure why you mention that the bike is under rearward load as the engine would be stalled. I can only suggest that you mean the brakes so- to restart the engine without selecting neutral whilst applying ''brakes'' is easy. Pull the CLUTCH SWITCH in and press the starter button (you should have a thumb so it shouldn't be hard to use the front brake at the same time). Now that the engine is started, you have ''engine braking'' back (and yes, I do have to use it occasionally on VERY steep hills).

Jarrah

 

Maniot wrote:

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Thanks for the clarification Jarrah....it was the bit about re-starting the bike whilst under compression braking that threw me a little....

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I can only suggest that you mean you got confused by the sentence in bold text below-

TT-R250M wrote:

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 Obviously you have never ridden trails with MASSIVE hills where stalling can happen to the best of us. Without the clutch switch I would have to find Neutral (nearly impossible to do quick enough) to restart the bike. This would leave me without compression braking as my bike does not roll-start too well (too much compression).

Jarrah

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 I am not sure why you would get confused as I (obviously) mentioned that the bike was stalled as why would I need to restart it?

As for this part-

Maniot wrote:

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 Of course, knowing my background so intimately you know I have never ridden up big hills and never stalled.......goodness.......without a 'fitted' clutch switch you could start with the clutch disengaged in any gear and re-start surely?

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 ...My posts before you quoted me answers that (below)-

TT-R250M wrote:

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 The clutch switch stops you starting the bike in gear and it racing off on you unexpectedly if the Neutral switch is faulty. It also allows you to start the bike in gear while riding (very handy).

Every modern bike with a starter motor that I have ever seen has had the clutch switch installed for this reason. If you can find one that doesn't, I will stand corrected.

You say that ''on most conventional motorcycles one can always start the bike 'in gear' with the clutch disengaged anyway'' but I highly doubt this is the case as any bike that I have seen with a starter motor also has a Neutral switch. It would be silly not to have one!

IMO- it is well worth having installed.

Jarrah

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Oh, by the way- if you pull the clutch lever in it engages the clutch not disengages. Maybe you meant- ''on most conventional motorcycles one can always start the bike 'in gear' with the clutch SWITCH disengaged anyway''-as in if the clutch switch is bypassed? That would make more sense.

I guess everyone has their ''blonde'' moments so don't feel bad. 

It is, of course, a matter of opinion whether you like the clutch switch installed or whether you like to bypass it. I have already mentioned the reasons why I like to have it installed.

Jarrah