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Post Info TOPIC: Rim Lock- basics


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Rim Lock- basics
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Hi all, basic questions time.

I haven't got any rim locks, but guess they would be a good idea, I have a couple of rubber bungs- so:

Do I just buy some locks and they are really straight forward to attach?

Do I need a certain size (s)

Can I really muff it up as I'm not sure really what I'm doing.

 

Thanks as ever



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Take a look here, Shack:-

LOCK HERE

It tells you all the basic stuff - different sizes for different tyres and rim sizes.

They are essential when trailing using soft pressures (10 psi and less) because they minimise any tendency for a lowly inflated tyre to move on the rim and in so doing taking the inner tube round thus ripping the valve stem out. cry

Martyn



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East Budleigh. Devon



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The Guru has this to say in the FAQ pages:-

"Fitting Ultra Heavy Duty Michelin inner tubes (4mm thick!) helps prevent punctures. Also, use good rim locks to prevent the tyres spinning on the rims and ripping the valves out e.g. Talon forged 1.60 front and 2.15 rear."

wink



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East Budleigh. Devon



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Thanks for that, some of my previous bikes had them but never paid any attention to them, time I did.

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Cubber wrote:

"Fitting Ultra Heavy Duty Michelin inner tubes (4mm thick!) helps prevent punctures.


 Several of us have gone back to 'normal' tubes as the valves seem to rip out on HD ones.

I believe Brian now lines the tyre with an old tube , then fits a standard one.

I may be corrected on this though.



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Exmouth, Devon, England



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Steve H wrote:
Cubber wrote:

"Fitting Ultra Heavy Duty Michelin inner tubes (4mm thick!) helps prevent punctures.


 Several of us have gone back to 'normal' tubes as the valves seem to rip out on HD ones.

I believe Brian now lines the tyre with an old tube , then fits a standard one.

I may be corrected on this though.


Absolutely right Steve! I must update the FAQ.

I had trouble with valves ripping out of HD tubes when run at low pressure as the tube wasn't "filling" the tyre and was therefore moving each time I accelerated and braked.

The HD tubes are expensive so I asked a mate who used to do a lot of enduros etc for advice and what I do now is to "skin" a cheap standard inner tube with a split old one. See http://www.ttr250.com/Fitting_Tyre/Tyre_fitting.htm 

Not had a puncture running this sytem - so far wink 

Brian



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You haven't found any issues with running hot with a lot of road work with the two tube system? or do you adjust pressures accordingly (within reason obviously)

Im happy to travel 40-50 miles of road for 5 or 6 lanes, I appreciate I'm a one offaww

So maybe it would be just me with the foot pump, when I go outh with other folk those figures are reversed (well that appears the challange)



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Beaten paths are for Beaten Men:

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shack wrote:

You haven't found any issues with running hot with a lot of road work with the two tube system? or do you adjust pressures accordingly (within reason obviously)


 No problems so far and I do quite a bit of roadwork as well. Don't usually bother changing tyre pressures. 



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