1. High on my list would be affordable replacement plastics - especially for the blue TTRs. The front mudguard isn't a problem but headlight surrounds, side panels and rear mudguards definitely are! They are very expensive from Mr Yamaha and no after-market plastics are available that I am aware of
2. A light but QUIET silencer to replcae the heavy original item which is prone to rusting out in UK conditions.
3. Some form of chain tensioner to run under the swing arm and stop some of the chain slap and also stop the chain eating away the slider and swing arm bearing cap!
4. A reliable fix for the mechanical front speedo drive on blue TTRs where the tab washer can give problems.
I will probably think of some others later..........
1. More powerful/better headlight 2. Bigger petrol tank capacity 3. Better front mudguard to prevent clag on engine fins 4. More accessible spark plug 5. Plastics and exhaust as Brian's choices
Other than those I find the TTR very acceptable and capable. No 6 would probably be lighter overall weight but I'm not after impossible stuff. Martyn
Other than that, 10 minutes rummaging through Brians parts store
You are welcome Steve - Mrs TTR will be waiting at the door with the price list and her hand out though
I have been thinking about the weight issue but there is very little that can be done about it. I guess we all want less weight high up where it counts for when we have to pick our TTRs up from the deck
It might be possible to achieve some result by:
1. fitting a lightweight exhaust which would save about 3kg
2. Removing the frame's rear subframe and fit a lightweight rear mudguard with an enduro LED tail, brake and number plate lights and holder with a smaller, lighter seat.
4. Smaller plastic tank and only carry the fuel you need for the event or trail ride
5. Remove battery, starter and starter gears and fit a kickstart
6. Remove standard speedo equipment and run a lightweight MTB device
After that it starts to get difficult. Parts like the panels, airbox, side stand, etc are a lot heavier than the equivalent parts on, say, a WR250F but, to be honest, it would be a lot easier to buy a WR250F and not mess about with the characteristics of the TTR that makes it such a great dirt bike
I guess, like Steve, the 325 route to coping with the weight is a lot easier
After market replacement plastics, I can't believe there are none when the bike is so popular
For the clunky occassional stop of the engine from new which eventually destroys the sprag clutch to be fixed
To come new with frame guards, I wish I had bought some when it was new, the rubbing from your boot takes away the paint quickly, and surface rust sets in when sitting idle in a damp shed
For the left foot peg mount to be redesigned, I've had one major stack which nearly ripped it off, now it's welded back on, but needs better painting
A different way of holding the front sprocket on as I change front sprockets regularly when I change wheels and the tab washer annoys me.
An easy to access big bore kit, look at the KLX250 and its bolt on 300 kit
Derestricted from stock
A nicer rear rego hanger from stock
smaller, less breakable indicators from stock
Stickers that don't wash off so quickly
The seat fixed so that the back corners of the seat cover don't wear through
There are probably lots more things that need doing, yet there is really bugger all, do too much and you might as well buy a wr250f or r. It's bulletproof and its easy to ride nature is what makes it special. When I go on trailrides the guys on their 450 enduro bikes are amazed at the places that the TTR250 can go. Change its oil regularly and clean its air filter regularly and it will last for years.
I am looking forward to doing some weekend bush touring this spring and summer and I am setting the bike up for it with a 22 litre tank and a rear carry rack as well as Pirelli MT21 tyres and am running 14/46 gearing. So anyone from Melbourne who might want to do the same thing feel free to pm me.
-- Edited by Matt on Wednesday 27th of July 2011 12:43:10 AM
For the puncture proof tires, nothing is puncture proof. You could try these things that eliminate the tube:
http://www.nuetech.com/
As for increased fuel, I have the Nomad Tanks #1 tank on my 2004 and love it. Works great. I can run 40-50 miles before turning on the main fuel tank. I have a range of about 160-170 miles with this set up.
http://www.nomadtanks.com/
Front fender that better keeps mud off the engine fins, that's an easy one: Acerbis fron fender. If it needs to be a little longer, take an old HD inner tube and cut it as a mud flap then rivit on to the fender.
Turn indicators that don't break when you tip over...oops when your buddy knocks you over. Go to the local hardware store with your indicator. Find a medium tension, short spring that can fit over the threads. mount the signal with the spring between the nut and mount. Snug enough to hold it, but loose enough to move if in an impact.
Frame guards to protect the paint. Try some iPhone screen protectors cut to fit where your boots rub. They don't leave a residue and are cheap and easy to replace. If you really want to get fancy, Works Connection makes a set for the Blue TTR's.
To eliminate surface rust while parked. Wash your bike before putting it away. Spray it liberally with WD-40 on everything but the brakes, plastics handlebars and seat. Lube all pivot points. It will smoke a little as the WD40 burns off at startup but it will wash up easier and stay looking like new much longer.
As for the seat corners that tear through, round the plastic pan off a little bit the next time you change the seat cover. A Dremel or rough file works well for this.
-- Edited by youngster on Friday 2nd of September 2011 11:05:12 PM