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Post Info TOPIC: Carb issues - occasional sputter


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Carb issues - occasional sputter
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Hey guys. New to the forum! I tried a search for this topic but didn't find what i was looking for. I appreciate any help. I just purchased a 2006 TTR250. Couldn't keep it idling without high rev. I drained the tank (removed it, turned it upside down and rinsed with new gas). I removed the carburetor, pulled it apart, sprayed it clean, replaced the main gasket, little o-rings etc. Pulled jets out and cleaned them, replaced the needle valve assy etc. Still can't get it exactly right.

I have the fuel screw turned 1.5 out.

It seems to idle better now but, not consistently. It occasionally gives a "pop" like it's sucking air. Not a backfire. Any suggestions? Thanks!



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Hi there and welcome to the new forum biggrin

Something that might be causing your problem is the inlet stub between the head and the carb. The rubber section that attaches to the carb can part from the metal stub that attaches to the head and allow air leaks and cause spluttering etc.

See pic below. The metal stub is on the left.

Brian

 

carb stub apart.jpg



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Brian,

Is that supposed to be one piece? Or would you suggest replacing the rubber?

Thanks, Chris

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It is supposed to be in one piece cry

Part # 4GY-13586-00-00

Some owners make repairs - see the TTR250 FAQ at http://www.ttr250.com/#Carburettor

 

Carburation problems? Check the rubber inlet manifold between the carb and the cylinder head as it may have come apart. The aluminium part that bolts to the head is tapered so gluing the rubber back on isn't easy. When the rubber comes adrift it sucks air into the engine upsetting the fuel/air ratio and causes poor running. It's also a very common fault and I've seen it on 2003 models. To glue the rubber back on you will need to remove the airbox, carb and inlet stub. Then clean it as best you can with a solvent that evaporates - meths, acetone etc. Then use an epoxy adhesive to coat the stub and push the rubber back on. Clamp end-to-end and put a jubilee clip (hose clip) around the glued area but not too tight. When the glue has dried (24 hrs is good) drive a couple of self-tapping screws through the jubilee clip, through the rubber and into the aluminium stub. If you're fussy, Dremel the ends of the screws inside the inlet stub.



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Hey, I bet that is exactly what the problem is. I'll try that! Thanks a bunch!!!

Chris

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