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Post Info TOPIC: Electrical Fault Tracing.


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Electrical Fault Tracing.
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G'day guy - just joined. I picked up this TTR cheaply and I intend to use it trail ring and maybe adventure touring. The first problem is to get it running. Its been standing unused and unstarted for about ten years - yeah yeah I know the likely issues, my stupidity and optimism. To confirm my stupidity you can see I have already started the mods before I've confirmed its mechanical condition. The front end is a Husky TE250 - its a long story.

I'm no electrical expert (nor great mechanic if it comes to that) but I can't get electricity anywhere. I'm jumping off a car battery which I thought would have plenty of amps to get over any issues. Now I haven't been exhaustive but I was hoping some here have had similar issues and experience which might point to a likely issue or a methodical process. (Yeah, I've checked the fuse).

 

Thanks in advance.

 



-- Edited by GraemeSydney on Wednesday 16th of May 2018 03:16:00 PM

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looks like a good project .

battery OK

next step is the ign switch ok , is it connected .

id suggest a test light ( very cheap and easy too use ) and check there is power on one side in the off position and then both when turned on

or bridge the two wires at the plug .

 

next is to connect the handle bar wiring so the starter circuit is completed through the kill , clutch switches .

once ok the side stand switch

then the solenoid behind the battery carrier , if its clicking an no go , bridge the two large wires with a screw driver and it should crank 

don't overthink  electrics think of it a bit like plumbing with water you cant see .

 

 

 



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I would hook up a battery and let it sit for a while. I had a drain in my battery because of the regulator. See if there is a draw on the system.

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Thanks guys - I'll try follow your suggested sequence.

I was talking to a local mechanic who recommended buying the correct battery to fit. It only about $50 but probably a few days wait. I can't see the pressing need or understand the benefits/imperative over jumping the car battery. What do you reckon?

I isolated the various cut off switches for a nil result. confuse

Water? I was told it was smoke in the wires, and when you see the smoke escape all is lost. smile



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I lashed out and bought one of these....

www.ebay.com.au/itm/12V-14000RPM-Digital-Motorcycle-Gauges-Speedo-Tachometer-Odo-Indicator-Km-h-MPH/112776800536%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

Cheap enough. I need one with the Husky front end - no speedo drive and I would have to make mounts anyway. I eBay'ed the OEM speedo - snapped up in a few days for $70. I sold the OEM forks for $300 (with dodgy 10yo tyre and a caliper needing a rebuild).

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I have jumped my bike off of a car before and it seems to be ok.

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I hope you can forgive me if I sound like a complete newbie but.......


........I bought a test probe ($10). With the ign switch disconnected I tested the 'in' side connector - found power at the red and nothing at the tan.

Testing elsewhere the 'black' consistently lights up and the earth at the coil lights up if switch on or off or disconnected.

I disconnected the f/brake switch (tan and yellow) tested the tan and got nothing (ign switch connected and on or off).

What does any of this prove if anything (other than me being an electrical neophyte.

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with the test light lighting up on the black , there is a chance you have test light clipped to the positive terminal of the battery , it should be on the earth black side 

 

that should then  have it lighting up when you probe a positive feed 

 

if as i suspect its hooked up backwards the things like the coil wire lighting up the test light is correct 



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I've got it hooked up to the earth.

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OK sounds good 

Is the earth to the frame OK if the black wire isn't earthed correctly you will find the test light will light up on the black  wire .

 

Might be time for a wiring diagram 

 

Your doing OK  wish I was closer 

 



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z1g


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I assume you have the manual. Although i've found this forum to be much better than a manual.
sorry can't help, but just hoping things work out. Chapter 7. Is what i followed.
For me i needed new relay, and batt. (Carb clean was what ended up firing it up) before i wasted $$$$ on bits.
Best of luck.


99-2006 manual here. Sorry on tablet, so not sure if this is your bike yr. Prob is not relevent.

https://ufile.io/xs4ac



-- Edited by z1g on Saturday 5th of May 2018 11:22:20 AM

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What has me puzzled is that the bike was reportedly running, working fine, when it was parked. I trust that and there is nothing obvious with the bike or wiring to suggests its not true.

I suspect it will be something simple. Checking the connectors they seem somewhat dirty/corroded. Any suggestions of a cleaning method. To me they look as though they need something physically shoved in there and worked around. They are small and fiddly and I'm looking for something to suit the job.

I started tracing the power working back through the wiring coming to the fuse holder as the first item. Power on one side and nil the other - blown fuse. New fuse same instant result. That suggests to me possibly moisture in a connector - a check shows nothing obvious. Any other suggestions. I haven't got the head light on dash lights etc connected - could that cause an issue?

P.S. the black still shows power.

 



-- Edited by GraemeSydney on Monday 7th of May 2018 05:15:13 AM

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I use alloy wheel cleaning acid, or old battery acid to clean old terminals and old copper wire before soldering, but it doesn't take long (ie don't leave things soaking and go for a cup of tea!) and you need to rinse everything well afterwards. The fizzing of the oxide deposits is very satisfying!

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Mild acid - good idea. I'll experiment. Thanks.

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Not this one then??

Image result for acid house logo



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z1g


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Any news?? Keep posting. Hoping to hear how it's solved.

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Mossproof made several suggestions which got me thinking and experimenting with a contact cleaner. I experimented with an old loom and lemon juice, a mild acid, as shown in the before and after photos attached. These results were after about an hour in the juice.

I tried other methods but I like the lemon in the overall of safety and effectiveness.

I intend to work my way through the loom cleaning the connectors with lemon juice, drying and generally checking. I hope in this process I will either fix it or stumble on the problem.



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That method sounds very appealing and juicy, Graeme.

Did it give you the pipconfuse

Let us all know the outcome.

Martyn



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biggrinbiggrinbiggrin



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Cubber wrote:

That method sounds very appealing and juicy, Graeme.



 Did I tell you about the girl friend I had, her nick name was Sunny. It started out as Sun Kiss and got shortened. Sun Kiss was the name of a popular and widely advertised orange juice with the slogan 'truly juicy' (or something similar). Now that was very appealing and juicy,...... and well named. smile 

Bonus fact; you can used the discarded lemon juice to wash your hands and make your little pinkies nice and pink biggrin.

 

 



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Thanks for that piece of information, Graeme.

You just added more zest to your theme. wink

Toodle pip.

Martyn



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Some people get an 'ear worm' (a song or that repeats and repeats itself in the head). I have a 'word worm' every time I hear the word 'juicy' I can only think of one thing..........



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Keep it clean guys, it's a family show

Making caipirinhas for a large party in Brazil, two girls on a tour of mine were hospitalised with burns from long exposure to lemon juice. Take care - it's still acid. Good piece of lateral thinking though Graeme. I think a short time in the acid is enough to remove corrosion without attacking the coatings on the terminals.

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