Went for a ride last week for 4 days with my new bags on the ttr - I'll put up a trip report very soon.
Long story short it went perfectly - except the exhaust side of the bike the bags got hotter than I'd like - hot enough to just start to melt one of my dry bags. I had some heat shields on the exhaust and they did a great job, bike plastics didn't melt or the bag holster. I actually had someone tell me before I put the bags on to get an extra heat shield for the ttr exhaust as they get so hot and it burnt the bags they had on theirs. Luckily I did.
So its either a Barrett or GYTR exhaust for me. What a great excuse to get a new exhaust!
I'm guessing the standard exhaust being steel and massive gets very hot and retains heat for longer than an Aluminium exhaust would.
I know Kaos and Threshold have each of these and I'm hoping they'd be so kind to take some pics and help answer my questions.
I'm wondering if you could take a pic with that side plastic panel off and one of the exhaust where the pipe enters the muffler? Maybe also a pic from behind showing the gap between the muffler and plastic?
Reason being the bags I have put a little weight down onto the plastic and the frame and exhaust. The Barrett is all Aluminium and is attached by a hose clamp setup to the frame and there is a spring from the muffler the the pipe - is the pipe not welded in the back of the muffler? It may not be strong enough, guessing here but not a lot of weight goes onto the exhaust but some sure does and I'm thinking of longevity here. Don't want a busted exhaust mount or pipe to muffler join in the middle of nowhere.
The gytr looks to have a welded mount on the muffler and seems to be welded to the pipe? Is this also an all Aluminium muffler or is it stainless? I'm guessing the pipes for both are stainless
Any help appreciated so I can buy the right exhaust the first time.
I've never had a problem with heat from the GYTR muffler, it sits well clear of the plastic side panel . And the old plastic side panel no longer has the stick on heat shield either, (not like the nice new one that I have still all wrapped up ;) )
However I don't run any extra bags, my bike is stripped down as much as possible, I have retained the lights. I pressed down on the side plastics and see that they would easily sit against the muffler with only some light pressure. Maybe some bracing and shielding is in order ???.
The GYTR seems well made, has sturdy mounts, has a tight fit into the header and doesn't need clamps.
KMAN has suggested the TK, I remember reading somewhere that TK made the GYTR pipes???
I like the GYTR muffler, but cannot directly compare it to either the Barrett or TK. They both have good reputations. I'd go for whatever of those brands were cheapest. Staintune is a great stainless brand but I personally like the lighter aluminium bodied mufflers.
I've heard the tk pipes are pretty loud? From what Kaos has said on previous posts I think the GYTR is reasonable at lower revs.
Kaos - the pic above shows the 2 heatshields I have on the bike, without them, there definitely would have been damage. I'm suspect the GYTR is the one I'll get - shame its the most expensive. Barrett looks great but I have a feeling it wont be as sturdy as the GYTR with bags draped over it. Hence my questions etc.
Hey Kman - just google them, that is a pretty good looking option too. I notice another post where it stated he isn't making them anymore. Anyone know if he is again? Guess I'll give him a call.
So subjective the whole decibel rating and reading others comments on how loud various exhausts are, or not.
Edit: after looking closer at the website, its looks like the best option, hope he is making them again. Do you have one Kman? Aluminium body or stainless? got to be half the weight of the original surely. Weight doesn't bother me too much, heat is the issue from the original pot belly stove. Have you noticed it gets hot or not?
Thanks again
Cheers Leigh.
-- Edited by leigh on Thursday 3rd of May 2018 08:21:15 AM
Yes i have one.
Last time i spoke to him he was back making them as he had stopped for a while.
I dont think they are heaps lighter.
I recon he uses pretty thick wall ally for strength.
Give him a call if you are interested.terry is super helpfull.
I just had a better look at the first picture you posted. It might be worth putting some stick on heat shielding on the inside of the plastic side panel, it looks pressed down by the bags pretty firmly.
Love the new exhaust. Built to outlast religion (heavy duty for an Alinimium muffler) and weighs 1.5kg less than the original.
It sounds so good, it has a really nice deep note to it barely any louder than standard at idle and till about half throttle it’s pretty tame. Up to full throttle it sounds fantastic but still not loud. Quieter than a standard Drz400 and certainly runs a lot cooler than the standard exhaust Winner winner
Hi Kaos - I forgot the best bit - yes quite a difference in performance.
I have already taken the restrictor out of the end of the header pipe and opened the airbox and rejetted - that made a big difference so wasn't sure if this would do much. I was surprised how different it felt, revs up so much quicker now as soon as you crack the throttle. Had to get my timing just right to pop the front wheel, so much easier now. I am surprised by the difference to be honest.
Hi Kaos - I forgot the best bit - yes quite a difference in performance.
I have already taken the restrictor out of the end of the header pipe and opened the airbox and rejetted - that made a big difference so wasn't sure if this would do much. I was surprised how different it felt, revs up so much quicker now as soon as you crack the throttle. Had to get my timing just right to pop the front wheel, so much easier now. I am surprised by the difference to be honest.
Now you need the shorty header pipe from Totally TTRs. Mine dynoed an extra 1.5 hp. 😁
That TK-P Muffler looks identical to the GYTR that is on my TTR.
I did hear the rumour that someone in Aussie made them using the GYTR name, maybe under licence. It might have been Mr. TK-P and he kept the design in his head.
Mine doesn't have the fancy Capping on the end so looks like the one on the right hand bike in your "couch" photo.
Mine barks abit with some of the exhaust hitting the Number Plate but hey, it's nothing like the local Harleys. I can slide the Number Plate over one hole if required but that might give Mr. plod a reason to pull me over.
Nothing quite like a Pensioner ripping around on a TTR making abit of noise after being lawful and quiet all his life !
Need a couch in the garage - have to be comfortable!
Kman - the top has been cut out of the airbox and a restricter cut out of the end of the header pipe. Jetting - I've dropped the clip down one notch on the needle and left the main Jet standard, changed the pilot jet to a 52 (up from the 50 that is standard). I bought the jet from totally TTR's some time ago now, I believe Brian got a hold of some genuine yamaha jets.
Kaos - mmm I bet I end up with one of those one day.
Jeff - I've read somewhere that Terry Kelly made the first GYTR pipes for the ttr - they were reasonable loud with the more open end cap I believe.
Many thanks, that pretty well confirms the long held Aussie-made theory of my GTYR Muffler.
It is certainly quite loud with the baffle out. On the mounting bracket it is stamped "94dB at 3750."
It is such a nice day in Auckland today (crystal clear, autumn sky and about 8c therefore a low-flying TTR wind chill factor of stuff all) so I might just tog-up and go for a BFB (Baffle Free Blast). Nearby, here is a nice long downhill stretch of country road, with big trees along the roadside, that is ripe for abit of good old "over-run" noise !
Hahaha - love it Jeff. I'm guessing NZ would be a pretty good place for a ride. Enjoy.
K-man - the note Terry included with the muffler said to remove the snorkle and turn the fuel screw out 6 turns (not sure it even turns out that far)I didn't adjust mine (I think I have it set 3 turns out from fully in)
Basically you want to remove the snorkel and cut the hole a little larger, what ttboof has done is the best idea IMO.
Mine has the entire top cut out - previous owner did it and its overkill and not needed IMO. Having said that where I live I do a lot of river crossings and mud holes and rarely get water in the airbox - a couple of crossings over the depth of the front wheel has seen maybe say 50ml of water in the airbox, nothing to worry about.
-- Edited by leigh on Wednesday 30th of May 2018 02:27:13 AM
Hahaha - love it Jeff. I'm guessing NZ would be a pretty good place for a ride. Enjoy.
K-man - the note Terry included with the muffler said to remove the snorkle and turn the fuel screw out 6 turns (not sure it even turns out that far)I didn't adjust mine (I think I have it set 3 turns out from fully in)
Basically you want to remove the snorkel and cut the hole a little larger, what ttboof has done is the best idea IMO.
Mine has the entire top cut out - previous owner did it and its overkill and not needed IMO. Having said that where I live I do a lot of river crossings and mud holes and rarely get water in the airbox - a couple of crossings over the depth of the front wheel has seen maybe say 50ml of water in the airbox, nothing to worry about.
-- Edited by leigh on Wednesday 30th of May 2018 02:27:13 AM
Hi Leigh.
Just for your info my air box is standard with just the snorkel pulled out, with the original sized opening on top. When I got my engine built (263 cc with head porting and a bit extra compression) I quizzed my engine builder about opening up the airbox for more performance. He assured me that it was not necessary and the the airbox opening (minus snorkel) was in no way restricting the motor. And did quite a few dyno pulls tuning it. For your info and probably good to know id doing water crossings..
That's good feedback Kaos - I actually bought another airbox (still with the snorkel) ages ago to fit, never got around to it. I was going to do some testing with and without snorkel to see what difference it really makes.
May fit it now and do what ttboof did - so the snorkel is removed but still has some protection from water washing over the airbox.
