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TT250R overhaul - slowly!
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Im just beginning to overhaul a TTR.

Ive stripped her down & sent off the frame for powdercoating.

Just started to clean up the rear swing arm..its going to be a slow job!

DSC_0835.jpg



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Wahay - about time we had another resto thread! Well done Rod biggrinbiggrin

Looks like you are going to town on the swingarm. Are you going to leave it shiny aluminium or paint it?

Also, depending on how good your frame people are, it is worth asking to see the blasted frame before it is powder coated to check for any possible cracks or rust (usually in the top rear subframe rails) in it.

What colour are you going for on the frame?

Brian



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Hi Brian!
I'm polishing the rear swing arm & then putting decals on, with the intention of lacquering it afterwards.
The polishing has taken the best part of a day to do- oddly enough, I quite enjoy it (sad I know!)...they are not completed yet
Ive added to the frame, extra strengthening points ( as I intend to put on racks and see the weak points)
Ive had the frame shot blasted & took your advice (from previous posts) to inspect prior to powder coating.
The frame colour is red (I cant remember the RAL code)-
I have replaced the fork seals/oil using the PSI method...I wasn't sure what mess would ensue, after again following one of your posts- but it bloody well worked!
Ive also polished the forks....its operation Bling!
I collected from Sir Steve, some parts at christmas and have also collected the anodised rims & hubs. (they are now silver!)
Ive cleaned the engine & have had it repainted, after checking it.( it ran well/without smoke/good compression/tollerances reset beforehand)
I have not looked at cleaning the carb yet, but will be looking into your "sonic bath" thread at some time!
Ive got pretty much everything ready (except new tyres)...its just a question of finding the time, inbetween having a loft extension etc


Brian- do you happen to know what size Heidennau K60 scouts will fit on the rims please?- I'm after this particular tyre as I've used them before (Serow) for distance travel.



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Moo


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Rod, I'll let you know on the Heidenaus when I get home, I've got them on the Raid.

What colour scheme are you going for?

My Raid frame is currently stripped, but think I'll go for just black? I'm guessing you couldn't find a match for the purple?

Any pictures of your frame strengthening? For Dan's Aussy trip he managed to get a rack that provides triangulation for a better load transfer.



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Malcolm, Northamptonshire. West Anglia TRF

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Having done that amount of work I guess you are still convalescing Rod!

I would be interested to know how you prepared the wheels for anodising and what it cost please? Also who did it for you. Photos would be good wink I am sure others will be interested.

Sorry but I don't know anything about those tyres but hope someone else will come along with an answer for you!

It would have been good to have met you at Steve's. I know there was a good reason why I couldn't but can't recall what it was confuse

Brian



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Moo- I'm going for an odd colour scheme- its not standard TTR, but instead, standard (sort of) Yamaha colours- Red frame, Silver wheels,red & black saddle and white tank...with the Yamaha tuning blocks running across them.
I will get pictures of the frame and the rebuild and document it here- so others can laugh & pity me.
There was a post (started by Brian)- where frame strengthening was discussed relating to carrying panniers etc. I checked the weld joins & then strengthened, BEFORE powdercoating. I will post up shots.
(as an aside, I did ask the powdercoater to NOT powder coat over the frame number...he forgot & so I have to rub it down...joy!)



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Hi Brian- I've had this particular bike for over 2 years and through injury, have not been able to start on it, beyond stripping it etc.

The cost of the anodised wheels was £200.00  I contacted guys from Sheffield, Manchester , Bradford and all major northern cities.  The cost to post/return can be quite high(that's why I searched up north)  Unfortunately few like to refurb wheels; preferring new, as many have had customers refusing to pay

The guy I used came from Rugby, but alas, he has become reluctant to do more(through I assume the same issues...people complaining??).  I did a Google search on "anodised wheels"- Id imagine with you living "relatively" nearer Bristol & London- I reckon you may have better luck.(but factor in delivery/collection or postage- it all adds to the bill, but was worth it for the look I'm trying to achieve.(photographs to follow).

Regarding meeting - it was a flying visit ( id have loved to meet you also)...I forced myself on his family over Christmas (27th December!!) and so didn't want to outstay my welcome...I have no doubt I will be down again.  The progress will stop mid Feb though, as the builder wants to store the loft conversion stuff in my garage- so the TTR will be put on hold...maybe

 



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OK...the RAL code for RED is 3020; ive just been into my garage; taking a break from designing a website & social media campaign that's getting quite heavy!(brain teasing)

The guy has a perfect match for the standard purple- I spent the afternoon going through his colour code swatches...I think its a british one though (BS...), not a RAL code...BUT he has the colour; for anyone that wants the exact number, I can get it.

OK- just a few shots to show what I'm upto & give an idea of colours etc.  I can(and will) be taking better shots with a better description as I start to put it together.

The wheels were purple and I don't usually store tanks on a woodburning stove!...it was just to get the light on it for the shot!...The red frame is in the background..yet to be polished etc....

DSC_0836a.JPG



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Moo


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That photos like where's Wally. Spot all the TTR's..

6 in that shot 😉 

I had the same issue with powder coating and frame no. Was quite a task to rub through thick powder coating!!



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Moo!- tell me about it...I had to build another garage to house them in...the addiction is way worse than your "where's wally" reference..im seeking help for it though!

OK..the code for purple is 22 D 45 under the BS4800 Colour Chart-  in my opinion;it was a really good match, but confirm yourself first.



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Looking good so far Rod!
I fitted a 130/80x18 Heidenau on the back of my bike. Fits fine in the swingarm. Front 90/90 is the go.
Simon.



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mossproof wrote:

Looking good so far Rod!
I fitted a 130/80x18 Heidenau on the back of my bike. Fits fine in the swingarm. Front 90/90 is the go.
Simon.


 Alternatively, a 4.00 X 18 Heidenaus also fits the rear. Gives you a couple options for finding rears 😁



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Joy!..options- thank you ever so much..I understand the front wheel dimensions, but the rear...out of a 4.00X18 & a 130/80- which one please is the widest please?



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RE: TT250R overhaul- slowly!
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The 130/80 seems to be the widest Rod:

tyre-conv-chart_940x600.jpg



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My 130 actually measures 130mm (5 and 1/8") at it's widest, fitted and inflated.
By comparison, I was looking at Mitas C18 rear tyre in 120/90 size and it measured nearly 150 across! Too big for my baby! I think Mitas measure across the carcass and don't include the knobbles.

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My 4.00 measure approx 115/120mm across

Also beware about the availability and which K60 tyre it is and whether or not its the Scout K60 or the normal K60.



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Thanks guys!...much clearer now!

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I love a properly ground up, time not an issue, insanely thorough rebuild thread :)

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its good to see the time being invested for a full rebuild

on the other hand  I a read the instructions on a paint can , re coat after  30 mins fully dry in 4 hours , then spray the part twice in ten mins and complain when i get paint on my fingers fitting the part 15 min later biggrin



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ttboof wrote:

its good to see the time being invested for a full rebuild

on the other hand  I a read the instructions on a paint can , re coat after  30 mins fully dry in 4 hours , then spray the part twice in ten mins and complain when i get paint on my fingers fitting the part 15 min later biggrin


 I know what you mean, its the time between dries that always seems to take so long.

The process I use  (dependent upon the item)is degrease,rub down or strip. I spend as much time as possible preparing the item-  when happy, I use a degreaser & dry; before the next stage (painting or polishing)

I bake each layer of paint using the woodburning stove- finishing off with a clear lacquer. Its a 4 stage process usually; 1.rust preventative metal undercoat>bake>2base coat>bake>3main coat>bake>4lacquer.

I will be adding some shots of this process; but for now I'm starting on the polishing & renovation of various plastics.

For plastics, again dependent upon condition, I have been using a technique that works for me (shamelessly stolen from the internet!)

Again prepare up- degrease & possibly rub down, ultimately ending up on fine wet & dry (800>1600).

I then(this is the scary bit)- heat the plastic with an adjustable heat gun...too close & it melts..too far away and it doesn't work. Its best to practice on something not valuable before attempting this.

when the plastic "glazes"- the top layer is effectively melting & the silicate(?) is almost rejuvenated. I then feed the plastic with silicone & it absorbs some of it..giving it a new lease of life. The excess is then wiped off(when cool)

I have used this technique on other bikes and it works well for me- but do it at your own risk!

Finally the polishing. I'm still on with the swing arm..its a slow job,but the process is broadly strip>rub down & reduce accordingly until you are on the finest wet & dry you have. I use a polishing wheel & repeat the process using course to fine cutting compounds.

Ive just started on one fork- hopefully you can see the start of the polishing, compared to the lip of the fork(where the gator will go; which still has the original paint on). This will be repainted, in a similar 4 stage fashion before reassembly onto the bike.

I did a video some while ago & put it up on youtube...I will see if I can find it 

polish.jpg



-- Edited by RodYorkttr on Wednesday 31st of January 2018 09:40:12 AM

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OK...found it!..it was shot about 09 years ago & my technique has changed a little;both with filming! & polishing no

I no longer use a wire brush to remove the paint...you just create even more work for yourself.

its also on a Yamaha Fazer...not a TTR....father Brian, forgive me..for I was young & more foolish then!

 



-- Edited by RodYorkttr on Wednesday 31st of January 2018 09:52:35 AM

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RodYorkttr wrote:

its also on a Yamaha Fazer...not a TTR....father Brian, forgive me..for I was young & more foolish then!


biggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrin

I accept that there are other models of bikes available Rod - so you are forgiven my son  wink

Has anyone tried polishing a silver TTR wheel? I am guessing that there will be quite a good coating of anodising material and that ordinary paint stripper wouldn't touch that?

Brian



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pedrosan wrote:

I love a properly ground up, time not an issue, insanely thorough rebuild thread :)


 Pedro Pete!..I remember watching your rebuild ( where blood was involvedwink)- that was devotion to duty!.

oddly enough, I had a similar "bloody" incident once on a trip I was taking- the action starts at 31 seconds...



-- Edited by RodYorkttr on Wednesday 31st of January 2018 10:02:09 AM

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TTRfan wrote:
RodYorkttr wrote:

its also on a Yamaha Fazer...not a TTR....father Brian, forgive me..for I was young & more foolish then!


biggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrinbiggrin

I accept that there are other models of bikes available Rod - so you are forgiven my son  wink

Has anyone tried polishing a silver TTR wheel? I am guessing that there will be quite a good coating of anodising material and that ordinary paint stripper wouldn't touch that?

Brian


 That's a really good question!...come on fellow fools...show yourself!



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OK a few more shots of the preparation for painting.

The yokes (bottom). shown next to the stainless cup prepared for either polishing or lacquering or painting. I chose to paint & lacquer to demonstrate what I was waffling on about in a previous post.

The brakes- I used an air grinder to remove deposits built up over the years. I will either lacquer or paint. I will be using oil/petrol resistant paint, as they will be exposed to brake fluid/chain oil/petrol no doubt in the futureyolk-prepared.jpg

rear-brake.jpgyolk-painted.jpg

york-paint.jpg

Each bake takes approximately 90 minutes-,  the 2nd layer can go on slightly earlier- I didn't use a primer/rust inhibitor on this, as its alloy & unlikely to rust.

I don't really know what else to write- Brian does this stuff so much better!



-- Edited by RodYorkttr on Wednesday 31st of January 2018 04:26:29 PM



-- Edited by RodYorkttr on Wednesday 31st of January 2018 05:58:49 PM

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Wow - the fork yokes have come up great Rod - a high standard to keep up with the rest of the build but we expect nothing less from you wink

The rear brake calipers are difficult to clean as they have quite a tough coat of (presumably) anodising.  The bracket is clean alloy so can be blasted or whatever with no problems.

Brian



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What progress Rod?

Really looking forward to seeing pics of progress wink

Brian



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I love the polished swingarm

Cheers Terry

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OK- progress...photographs to follow.

I have been restoring a classic Hymer- which came from your neck of the woods..new turbo,cambelt etc..

..but inbetween, I have also been working on the bike!..I had forgotten to order new swing arm bearings, so Steve came to the rescue & then a day later again, as I needed the swing arm chain guide!

The swing arm is now attached to the frame and the engine is back in.

I recently bought some rather sexy silver handlebars so the purple/blue ones are going to be retired once I get all the working parts cleaned & exchanged over.

Photographs Tuesday..promise!



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Sorry for the delay- I have been running around training & sorting a Hymer (motorhome)

I have managed to sort the Yokes & installed a handy grease nipple.

The pictures are not great quality and show the dust build up!

Next on the list is the wiring- I'm stripping & recovering and then the seat cover...its quite a sexy colour & will work well with the new(to me)bars!..thanks Brian!

DSC_0928.JPG

DSC_0929.JPG

DSC_0927.JPG

DSC_0926.JPG

 



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That tank looks awesomesmilesmilesmile



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Thanks for the update Rod biggrin

The frame and tank look awesome!

I see you managed to prevent the frame number getting obliterated by powder coat wink

How did you get the engine looking so good?

Brian



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DSC_0926.JPG

DSC_0927.JPG

I think this forum & committing to a rebuild "motivates" you to get stuff done!...(maybe!! no)

OK- Ive stripped all the electrical wiring loom- cleaned it and re-taped with fresh electrical insulation tape. The regulator/rectifier looks really sexy now( I need counselling I suspect)

OK Brian..- I have done quite a bit to it - but not to the extent of your rebuilds- it was not smoking etc & had previously had extensive work done on it by the engineering previous owner- I have initially just done the shims!- ok- cleaning-the engine has been steam cleaned and then stripped, before respraying...its not finished- (so I can's show it in all its glory yet)

...but what I can offer is a recovered seat and possibly the reg/rec ...its so sexy!

I don't enjoy seat recovering- but I used adhesive and HD staples-starting at the top & then the bottom & stretching into position (North, South, East & West is the best way to describe it)- the seat is one of those non slip ones

 



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There you go-Regulator/Rectifier porn!

DSC_0930.jpg

 



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Beautiful job Rod, but you really need to get out more
Simon.

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Where did the white spring come form?



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mossproof wrote:

Beautiful job Rod, but you really need to get out more
Simon.


 tell me about it!...counselling is going well though!



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ttr steve wrote:

Where did the white spring come form?


 Hi Steve- it came with the bike- the previous owner was an engineer-is it not standard?

 



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Hi Rod!

To the best of my knowledge the TTR can have one of three different coloured springs - white, yellow or red (the Raid has a slightly different shock with a black spring).

Yellow is the most common and it is unusual to see the white and red springs. White is the lightest duty spring and red a heavy duty one - as far as we can work out!

See http://ttr250.activeboard.com/t49311269/rear-shock-absorber-qa-megathread/?page=2&sort=oldestFirst

Brian



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TTRfan wrote:

Hi Rod!

To the best of my knowledge the TTR can have one of three different coloured springs - white, yellow or red (the Raid has a slightly different shock with a black spring).

Yellow is the most common and it is unusual to see the white and red springs. White is the lightest duty spring and red a heavy duty one - as far as we can work out!

See http://ttr250.activeboard.com/t49311269/rear-shock-absorber-qa-megathread/?page=2&sort=oldestFirst

Brian


 I spent most of the day reading the megathread on shockers!- the company just outside York, I have used in the past. He is brilliant.

From other TTRs, I would certainly agree- the white spring is the softest.  I have a set of Vernier gauges, but alas the battery has died; so I cant measure the thickness accurately compared to others- but I suspect this is what makes it softer..not the length; which is the same.

I will measure it & compare to other colours & report back.  I gather there is no compatible shock absorber- its a one off made for the OE- is that still the case? 



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