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ttr250 after LONG TIME PARKING - todo-s
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hello friends

lets hope this is worth for a topic, or pls tell me where to discuss.

 

I purchased a 2004 yamaha TTR 250, it only has 4.000 kilometres, old guy sold it to a BMW dealer, must have parked many years.

 

video:  https://goo.gl/photos/MiUWokjeY9vGUC4P8

Image1.jpg 

 

I ASK FOR YOUR WISDOM

 

please help me to get a short list, what to do first:

-what  is a MUST to exchange (oil oil filter, and...? ) (pls recommend me the best oil + exact oil type, too!, motul is okay? )

-what to check what to look at as a preventive maintenance?

-any other good info for a long time parked bike?

-what petrol is the best to use for this bike? normal? super? else? shell fuel save ?  no matter?

-what to expect in the CARBURETTOR? after many years parking??? etc?confuse

THANK YOU FRIENDS

 

 



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Hi there and welcome to the forum!

Looks a nice TTR. Seems to have been stored dry and you shouldn't have too many issues.

If the oil looks clean through the sight glass then it may be worth starting it up and warming the engine before doing the oil and filter change. If you wanted to make sure that the oil pump is working properly then take off the spark plug cap and ground it, then take out the 10mm oil bleed bolt at the front RH side of the clutch casing and turn the engine over on the starter until oil comes out. Then put it back in, put the spark plug cap back on and start it.

I have always used Fuchs Silkolene Super 4 10W-40 semi-synthetic motorcycle oil in my TTRs. See  http://www.amazon.co.uk/Silkolene-Super-10W-40-Semi-Synthetic-Motorbike/dp/B007AEX40W

There is a view that it isn't necessary to use a motorcycle-specific engine oil but Super 4 isn't expensive in my view. As our engines only use just over 1 litre at each oil change, I think it is a reasonable insurance policy.

I am also of the view that an air-cooled engine, even in a moderate climate such as in the UK, needs oil with a bit of "body" to it rather than pure synthetic oil - nothing scientific to back that up - just a gut feeling wink

I have tried a lot of different after-market oil filters. I have seen the cheap re-usable ones (which have a simple screen) collapse as they have very little integral strength so I no longer use those. The best made ones I have found are the Filtrex filters which are very close in design to the genuine Yamaha item. Totally TTRs sell these - see https://totallyttrs.com/epages/699105d9-e4cc-4b32-b236-84e72cd67f84.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/699105d9-e4cc-4b32-b236-84e72cd67f84/Products/TTR-0004

It is probably best to drain the petrol tank and use the old petrol in your mower. Use the cheapest unleaded petrol - I haven't found any difference in performance or fuel economy by paying more!

Also drain the carb float bowl using the screw at the bottom. Make sure that you use a good fitting screwdriver so that you don't round it off. If it was dry then let the float bowl fill up with fresh petrol and then rinse the float bowl by draining some of this through. You can catch the draining petrol in a clear jar so that you can see what, if anything, comes out with the petrol!

Check the air filter is clean and still feels oily. If it doesn't then best to clean and re-oil it using proper filter oil.

Whilst you are doing this, have the battery on charge so that it will turn the engine over quickly.

You may be lucky and the TTR will then start and run OK. Fingers crossed for you!

If the TTR won't tick over properly without a bit of choke then the pilot jet may be blocked with dried up petrol deposits but hopefully you will be OK.

If a stored TTR looked a bit rusty then I would suggest pulling out the front and rear axles to make sure they aren't seized, clean and re-grease them before re-installation.

Check that the brake calipers aren't stuck and that the two sides of the calipers are moving freely on their slide pins.

Check the tyres for any obvious signs of cracking as the rubber may have perished in storage - unlikely but better to be safe!

Can't think of anything else immediately.

Let us know how it goes wink

Brian



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any hint why the original stickers get those bubbles?

strong sun, thats all?

I should pierce them with needle and try to flatten with hair dryer, or forget it?

to scrape it off, hair dryer, WD40 does the trick?

I found "some" manual : 1drv.ms/f/s!AoV_EnFSfU9Tm3tgADIwlY2L5WnK

to motor oil viscosity I read prntscr.com/ev6ua3 10w 30 in cold and 20w 40 in warm weather. ? any rule of thumb here? and, what kind to go for? full syn, semi syn? what is good for what.. I would like to know (sorry noob 2T guy here)

thx

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The bubbles are caused by the fuel vapours from the tank, cut little lines in the graphics using a scalpel or a new Stanley blade, that should do the tricksmile



-- Edited by ttr steve on Tuesday 11th of April 2017 06:15:44 PM

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martin555 wrote:

any hint why the original stickers get those bubbles? strong sun, that's all? 

I should pierce them with needle and try to flatten with hair dryer, or forget it?


The bubbles are caused by petrol vapour bleeding through the walls of the plastic petrol tank. You don't get bubbles on metal tank stickers wink

If you pierce the bubbles then it will look very untidy  as the outer skin of the stickers will have stretched and will be saggy.

If you don't like them looking untidy then just peel them off and either replace them or run the tank without stickers.

Replacement after-market stickers have either holes or slits in them to allow the vapour to escape.

There are a few threads such as this one http://ttr250.activeboard.com/t50576289/bubbling-decals/

Brian



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martin555 wrote:

to motor oil viscosity I read prntscr.com/ev6ua3 10w 30 in cold and 20w 40 in warm weather. ? any rule of thumb here? and, what kind to go for? full syn, semi syn? what is good for what.. I would like to know (sorry noob 2T guy here)

thx


 I think I covered that question in my earlier answer wink

Just make sure that you keep the oil level up and change it regularly biggrin

Brian



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ttr steve wrote:

The bubbles are caused by the fuel vapours from the tank, cut little lines in the graphics using a scalpel or a new Stanley blade, that should do the tricksmile


 I don't disagree with your solution Steve it's just that the decals look really bad after a while especially when water and dirt find their way into the holes or slits cut to release the vapour cry



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TTRfan wrote:
ttr steve wrote:

The bubbles are caused by the fuel vapours from the tank, cut little lines in the graphics using a scalpel or a new Stanley blade, that should do the tricksmile


 I don't disagree with your solution Steve it's just that the decals look really bad after a while especially when water and dirt find their way into the holes or slits cut to release the vapour cry


Thought I read about someone on the forum doing the scalpel thing and haven't the graphics got slits in themconfuseconfuseconfuse 



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ttr steve wrote:
TTRfan wrote:
ttr steve wrote:

The bubbles are caused by the fuel vapours from the tank, cut little lines in the graphics using a scalpel or a new Stanley blade, that should do the tricksmile


 I don't disagree with your solution Steve it's just that the decals look really bad after a while especially when water and dirt find their way into the holes or slits cut to release the vapour cry


Thought I read about someone on the forum doing the scalpel thing and haven't the graphics got slits in themconfuseconfuseconfuse 


I see where you are coming from Steve. I think the scalpel reference was advice regarding bubbling on the Enjoy Mfg tank graphics.

I don't know how clear it is on the photo below but the adhesive on them seems to cover the slits in the outside layer of plastic letting petrol vapour build up underneath the adhesive that can't escape thus causing a bubble.

By carefully running a sharp blade in the slits this will cut through the adhesive layer and allow the vapour to escape.

Tank 007.jpg

My experience with the genuine original plastic tank TTR  graphics is that you can burst the bubbles but they never recover their good looks cry



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Super clean bike dude, freaking pristine.  4K?  What did he only ride indoors?  That's a find for sure.



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no hit marks on the exhaust, old guy must have avoided rocks I will NOT. some crash marks on the rubber handle and index light but who cares. what do you mean by 4K ?
I hope I will have much fun using this bike, and bike will tolerate abandoned coal-mine (soft, loose granules, quick drying after rain, no dust, ideal place) where we usually rip.

I have pretty expensive MICHELIN cross rubber on my actual bike, I think to trash these ancient factory-original dunlop-s and put the michelin on

michelin: goo.gl/photos/qUfje42cZbQXdrFC8

actual dunlop: goo.gl/photos/6XbFX1DWSjwx8L5h6

what is to be expected of the 2004 battery?

thx!!

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Sorry by "4K" I meant 4000 kilometers. Which seems like a lot of kilometers for such a clean bike.


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Zero is what to expect from a 2004 battery I'd say.

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dear friends.

thank you for your support and good advices to this point.

I also look forward to ask for your REAL TIME EXPERIENCE (so what I seek ins no anonymous internet forum guess-work) and I tell you in advance, I might have some bad "imagination" in my mind (wich is 100% NOT real life experience covered) so please do not be mad. but please allow me to ask!!!!!

my personal first thoughts after a day's ride with the 2004 TTR 250:

-I switched from watercooled 2T. I MUST persuade myself to take care of the air cooling while standing in one place: I just switch the engine off when waiting or standing.
(pls just give me rough infos: what is the good and what is the bad temperatures in celsius degree of the cooling grill and I will measure it with laser thermometer a few times) (is the thermometer screwed to the oil fill hole a bad idea?)
-I have an unpleasant feeling about, how the torque is added when throttle is untouched-put in gear- throttle pulled a little. (the way the engine is starting to work, as if in your car there would be none counterweight)
I was used to smoother acceleration, not this initial "pulling" force shock. I do not mean the engine power, I mean the transition from zero throttle (gear switched and clutch let go) and pulling the throttle.there is a pull like in a car where is no counterweight and you let go clutch) OF COURSE I will learn it and live with it,, I already excused myself previously for what I write.
-I guess, the "sewing machine"-like clicking metallic sound are the valves-- right? noob question alert.. just soothe me . (I suddenly hear sounds! yay" not only the 2T wheening YAY)
-about sounds- yes I suddenly hear them. something is rattling in the left mirror, what could be inside? can I disassemble it and un-rattle or the previous owner must have fallen and broken the mirror inside???
-the bubbly decal: well I just could unpeel it completely. bubbles REMAINED because the decal is made of more layers, it has an outer transparent layer, un-stretched, but the other colored decoration layer has got soft and stretched, you just can not re stick it. well I dont care I am just telling.

can I de-rattle the clutch, handbrake levers too? tighten some screw to make there less space them to rattle?

is it okay to use the engine "as a brake" when rolling down from a hill, or is this to be avoided??? does it fo anything for the engine then I avoid it and use only brakes.

 

air filter status:   https://goo.gl/photos/VQQ236NLvdxGhU8CA

to the touch it is sticky like "honey" of the foam. the plastic box of the air filter has a sticky dirty greasy surface at the bottom. I guess, the stuff from the foam sponge must have dropped during storage? this motor has no carter gas vented to the air box, correct?

 

question: is it okay to wash it and re-oil it (nylon bag squeeze style) with K&N air filter oil?

 

I have it at hand right now.   https://www.knfilters.com/clningacc.htm

 

MY BIGGEST ISSUE (most urgent) is: there is VERY STRONG !!   petrol smell. also in the garage, but in the hallway (=whole appartement) too. how could I effectively "avoid" this?

thx friends...




-- Edited by martin555 on Tuesday 18th of April 2017 06:35:29 PM



-- Edited by martin555 on Wednesday 19th of April 2017 01:58:21 AM

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can you ppl give me an advice what to do with the brake fluid, leave it as is, or change it?

previous owner seem to have opened the small container on the handlebar because I see marks on the screws.. no guarantee they did exchange the fluid or not.

thx

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The owners manual suggest the fluid should be changed every two years but I confess that I have never done so! It's worth getting an owners manual. A download from Totally TTRs isn't expensive - see https://totallyttrs.com/epages/699105d9-e4cc-4b32-b236-84e72cd67f84.sf/en_GB/?ObjectPath=/Shops/699105d9-e4cc-4b32-b236-84e72cd67f84/Products/TTR-0378

This is what it says:

  • Hydraulic brake service
  • After disassembling the brake master cylinders and calipers, always change the fluid. Regularly check the brake fluid levels and fill the reservoirs as required.
  • Every two years replace the internal components of the brake master cylinders and calipers, and change the brake fluid.
  • Replace the brake hoses every four years and if cracked or damaged.

The manual also includes detail of cleaning and oiling the air filter. Once cleaned and dry, any reputable filter oil can be used. I soak mine in Silkolene foam filter oil, squeeze it out, hang to dry and then put back in having greased the filter where it sits against the air box to prevent air bypassing the filter at that point.

Brian



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I would definitely put some fresh brake fluid in. The fluid absorbs water over time which can cause corrosion in the system and also reduces brake efficiency) Suck some out of the reservoirs with a syringe (or even soak it up with a cloth), refill then pump it through as you would normally bleed brakes. The front brake reservoir screws are often stuck and need to be drilled out and replaced.

Your other questions:

Unless the bike has been revving/working hard, or the weather is very hot, it is ok to leave it running for a few minutes when stationary. The flow of oil helps a bit to keep the temperature down.

Not quite sure what you mean about the low throttle torque, but the ttr 4 stroke is much stronger at low revs than a 2 stroke race machine would be I think (in some places they call it the TracToR!)

Sewing machine clicking is normal. Louder rattling is not. You could check the valve clearances, and cam chain for wear, if you are worried. Can't see what sort of mirrors you have to know if they will dismantle.

The smell of old petrol is unfortunately difficult to lose, but might fade over time with plenty of fresh fuel in the tank (fresh fumes instead of stale ones - is what I'm thinking) Someone else might have some ideas how to deodorize a plastic tank...

The rattly levers you could try some very thin washers to take out some of the movement, but the wear is usually not the same all round - more wedge shaped so there is a bigger gap in some places than others. Tightening the pivot bolts doesn't really work as they are stepped. Riding rocky trails in Spain once, I noticed my brake lever rattling so badly there was aluminium dust everywhere, and I developed the habit of riding with one finger on the lever all the time (like a trials rider)

Engine braking is ok - better than running long distances on the brakes and then having no brakes at that last hairpin bend at the bottom of the hill!

Air filter: If it is a foam type it should be oiled and slightly sticky to the touch. Sometimes people oil the sides of the filter box to trap more dust. There is also a crankcase breather into the filter box which might be introducing some oil vapour. K&N filter oil should be ok.

Hope you get to love the ttr,

Ride safe,

Simon.


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THX FRIENDS!

today I talked to a really pro tyre- specialist (they have a shop for motorbike, car, TracToR, agricultural, and truck tyres replacement), local motorbikers recommended them for me, so I hope to get a new tyre soon. they scratched heads to convert millimeter values to 4.60-18-63P (actual ancient dunlop) but they will figure out.

on my (off topic) 2T old kawasaki KMX 125 I have michelin CROSS tyre, absolute hateful on asphalt, absolute love in the forest, mud, abandoned coal mine.

but, I think I could not resist to go to work with the TTR so I try to choose an "all terrain" tyre (I know that the uber-perfect tyre does not exists) in the extreme case I must buy another wheel to the back for the cross tyre.. ah.

would you consider 7.000 kilometres as still running-in status of the engine? I hope, not.

air filter washed out (with hand with K&N washing liquid, but the old oil on the sponge was so old, dry and honey-like sticky, I put it in the washing machine 60 deg celsius, filled the sponge with washing liquid, now it is clean) and thin re-oil with red K& N oil, cleaned the plastic box with toothpaste because bottom of the box was sticky residue of old sponge thick oil)

goo.gl/photos/1FkkCXv5iw3jW7kq6

cheers

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I purchased the manual from the website, I hope to support it in the future too. I am happy to donate also, from time to time.

question:

I read somewhere, there exists more versions of TTR 250. my machine is 2004. blue plastic tank.

what are the other versions? UK export etc? what are the main differences? pls help me sleep good else I will be just rolling in my bed.


other:

what are the chances that I will be found by a scammer? www.scamwatch.gov.au/types-of-scams/unexpected-money/nigerian-scams and it happened!

I am trying to sell my ancient old kawasaki, somebody from UK mobile number tried to cheat me, I just pay 500 eur money transfer to the USA and they will be sending a truck to pick my old kawasaki .. lol.
fake paypal threatening mails, etc..


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martin555 wrote:

I read somewhere, there exists more versions of TTR 250. my machine is 2004. blue plastic tank.

what are the other versions? UK export etc? what are the main differences? pls help me sleep good else I will be just rolling in my bed.


Some information here http://ttr250.activeboard.com/t50132262/wondering-about-model-differences-or-year-model/

There is a thread with photos of all the different models but I can't find it disbelief 



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uber-pro NASA space tech approved "HIFI" washable oil filter. hope it does not collapses?

 

Screenshot_4.jpg



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Same as the ones I use and they seem to work ok. They all bend a little as they are a few mm too long for the housing, I assume this is intentional, I bought an original yamaha one to check - same length and also gets a bit squashed in the housing. I re-use these and just clean them and go again.

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what simple DIY solution you recommend to pump air to front fork suspension and to measure pressure? the nozzles are so deep, hard to reach.

other: my nylon offroad pants got instantly molten when I fall. I am not used to air cooling. either I need boots or leather pants...

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I got the source of petrol smell in the garage, the carb has a leaking seal, I will exchange it, need to order proper one.

I put in motul semi synthetic 10w50 (summer) and yes, the metal oil filter is a little bit "too long".

mister Yamaha forgot the greasing nipple on my bike as I see (I have Japan version, numbers start with "J".) - so we have to disassemble to grease, get rid of squeaking sound.



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Help please. I purchased 2004. Ttr 250 7.000km. I put some more km in its 8500 now. Previous owner used it rarely.. Chain was unlubricated shiny like mirror. How can i find out chain is worn? I used some offroad motul lube, grease and dirt stuck now like glue. How can i wash, remove chain and put in petrol or it damages rubber o rings? After wash, check with hand if each chain particle is not too wobbly? Or replace is a must? 8000km, but 7000km seemingly badly treated. Thx. Dont want accident because worn chain. Previous owner did NOT rough offroad, not any wear on the bike.

(sorry for double post, I have trouble finding out if somebody answered to my post or not..)



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I know when my chain needs doing, as I can't tighten it any more with the rear adjuster and it feels all loose and very noisy. If in any doubt change it.

As for cleaning, I jet wash mine and the spray with WD40 immediately, then with chain lube after that and every time I change the rear tyre or sprocket I take the chain off and soak it in old engine oil.

Hope that helps

Steve



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ttr steve wrote:

I know when my chain needs doing, as I can't tighten it any more with the rear adjuster and it feels all loose and very noisy. If in any doubt change it.

As for cleaning, I jet wash mine and the spray with WD40 immediately, then with chain lube after that and every time I change the rear tyre or sprocket I take the chain off and soak it in old engine oil.

Hope that helps

Steve


 thx for your input, OLD engine oil I fin d a good idea to use as soaking liquid ! good idea.

 

QUESTION!!

 

I tried to remove the chain. I could easily get the "spring thingy" off (carefully knocking it off with large screwdriver and hammer). easy peasy.

 

BUT !!! after that I am stuck. I could not move the "bolts" of the opening section of the chain. carefully knocked it with hammer (did NOT flatten it just to get it loose) and it feels like solid. I rolled the chain to the large back , large gear wheel, to carefully "knock" it loose with hammer, did not move a millimeter ! I sprayed ALOT OF WD 40. no use.

 

so I put back the spring thingy.. snapped in place. nothing moved.

 

whats the trick?

 

Edit,, ah sorry I got it, it needs a disassemble tool. ok I go to a service.

 

thx.



-- Edited by martin555 on Tuesday 16th of May 2017 05:15:20 PM

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No Disassemble tool needed, just remove the spring clip and get a screwdriver between the plate underneath the spring clip and the plate at the back and you should be able to lever them apart.

The parts look like this when separated

Split Link for Renthal R3 chains

 

Hope that helps

Steve



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I always clean my chains in petrol dry them off and then put them in linklife and that keeps them nice and greasy for a while handshake.gif

Lionel



-- Edited by skyrider on Tuesday 16th of May 2017 07:42:12 PM

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I think I need the push tool.. the opening chain is so much stuck, if I press screwdriver underneath it will NOT pop off nor come loose..I just tear the rubber O ring and bend the opening part..



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One of these then

https://totallyttrs.com/epages/699105d9-e4cc-4b32-b236-84e72cd67f84.sf/en_GB/?ObjectID=1718251



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martin555 wrote:

I think I need the push tool.. the opening chain is so much stuck, if I press screwdriver underneath it will NOT pop off nor come loose..I just tear the rubber O ring and bend the opening part..


 take some pressure (tension) off the chain..loosen the rear wheel locking nut & the snail adjustors ( the ones with numbers on them to adjust the chain tension)



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