I bought a used TTR-250, a 2005 model, a bit over a year ago. The basic bike is a ripper, but as soon as you have to work on them it quickly becomes apparent that an XR it certainly isn't.
Still, it's a nice ride. I just fitted a 21 litre Acerbis tank, so the front suspension is now compromised and in need of heavier springs (and a new fork seal or two...). I might just refit the standard tank for a few weeks.
The rear suspension has been bothersome. A leaky shock (fixed - twice), breaking those stupid f%$king washers at the top mount (twice, and they aren't cheap), now it has thrown a seal out of the swingarm bearing and squeaks like crazy, it must be pretty dry in there. Ah well, more work.....
And the front brake is just woeful. I fitted a braided brake line, bled it from the caliper, and have great pressure at the lever, but once it gets pressure you just keep reefing the lever harder and harder back to the bars, with very little response. I suspect a bad ratio at the master cylinder ex-factory, worn seals in both ends, and a rock-hard disc. The disc shows basically zero signs of wear, despite thousands of offroad kilometres. The front brake is just a sad joke.
-- Edited by GodSilla on Saturday 11th of February 2017 07:05:38 AM
Mate, no bike is ever perfect, but some are better than others. I've had to fix every bike I ever bought (except my KTM 640 Adventure). The basic bike is nice to ride, so I can forgive a lot of the other ****.
Conversely I had a BMW K100RT that did everything I expected of it, and everything it said on the box, but I never liked riding it so it got sold.
Being an enjoyable ride is the main thing.
The kits were made up as a cost saving on the original parts. If your bearing is noisy, it might suggest it is worn out? As a nice tight unit would be OK. The kits do mean that you would not get any knocking noise, as made from industrial strength Neoprene.
Happy to take out the spreader bolt of an order to save weight and that would come into the minimum weight category, but if ordered with other stuff may not make a difference.
If shipping abroad, I have to remove the grease anyway.
Regarding the front suspension, new seals and a heavier fork oil would probably fix your problems. If not, put in a bit of air
The top shock bearing collars are a strange design and almost impossible to remove without breaking. I would go with Steve's after-market solution every time. Been running them on my TTRs for years ever since Fixer got the idea back in the day when the cost of the new Yamaha parts nearly gave him a seizure
Not sure what's going on with your shock. Either your suspension guy is using the wrong seal head or the rod is worn?
I confess that if I have any issue at all with the linkage bearings and seals then I replace the whole lot with an All Balls kit as it is such a faff stripping out the linkage and it means job done only once.
So plenty of advice for the front forks (and I've tried air and oil, only the correct spring rate will make it work properly) no-one is commenting on the front brake? Is it some sort of TTR-taboo?
LOL - I am sure you appreciated the advice given though
Also, not sure about any taboos. TTR owners are quite happy to admit to faults on their favoured machine. I am guessing your comment was meant as a joke so LOL again
Just in case you might possibly have been serious (unlikely I know ) have a look at the problems addressed in the repair and maintenance "stickies" sub-forum and I hope you will agree we are open and honest and just try and help each other where we can. See http://ttr250.activeboard.com/f604245/repair-and-maintenance-quotstickiesquot/
Occasionally questions are asked on the forum that don't get a response (although on this occasion ttboof gave you some front brake advice) and this is usually because no-one else on the forum has experienced the issue or just don't feel able to offer a useful response.
Regarding the front brake, in standard form it can feel a bit soft and, to me that was always an advantage, at least on the loose stuff, as it meant it was less likely to cause a washout if too much of a handful was grabbed
When the original hose showed signs of wear, I fitted one of Steve's superb Venhill front hoses and this certainly sharpened up the front brake to the extent that it is possible to lock up the front wheel on dry tarmac - don't ask how I know
Not sure what the brake issue is.... But then I don't have stop mine from 100kph on a sealed road.. Off road it works fine... can come down any hill here ( we have real hills here) with out to meany probs.. there enough feel to come to a dead stop on most where theres enough grip.. The TTR uses the same front brake system as the YZF & WR250 of the same years , as I found out after I bought the YZF front end then bought the whole brake system , only to find out I already had it all on the bike... I do have a braided brake line on it....
anyway have fun with it... they are dam great bike... very under rated...
.
-- Edited by petenz on Sunday 12th of February 2017 10:11:40 AM
Welcome!
TTR front brakes are a real pig to bleed. I often end up taking the caliper off and raising it level with the levers, and use a suction bleeder with a second pair of hands refilling the reservoir as the fluid runs out fast. I found a new master cylinder seal kit also made a difference.
Remember, it's an 11 year old trail bike designed in the early 90s - going to need a bit of love and understanding
Cheers,
Simon.